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Wrapping the NineT in vinyl - little guide

189K views 208 replies 75 participants last post by  arfingdog  
#1 · (Edited)
Hey guys... I had some private messages asking how I wrapped the front end with vinyl.

I thought of putting the answer into a post so others can get an idea as well.

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The top bit is simply a rectangular shape.

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I just measured it and cut a piece of vinyl. I used a bit of soap water to apply the vinyl. As soon as you pull the vinyl off it's carrier spray the soapwater on its back, on the sticky side. This prevents it from drawing dust particles and you can move it around a little while applying it to the bike. When you are happy with the way it sits you squeeze the water out with a soft cloth. Don't get inpatient when doing that... take your time. Once the soap water is gone the sticker will grip and over night it'll completely dry. You can use a heat-gun to speed up the process a little... and if it fails the first time, pull the vinyl off and try again... absolutely nothing wrong with trying several times. :)

Let it overlap where you are least likely to see the seam.

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For the bottom part you probably have to make little strips for where the fork is thicker. I did remove the front fender to have a bit more space wrapping the strips around. If you can remove the front wheel it'll be perfect. See below how I have done it... not the cleanest work I've done but as soon as you step half a meter away from the bike you can't see the cuts.

With these bits I also used a heat-gun set to 150C. But it'll depend on which type of vinyl you get.

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Questions? :eek:

Cheers,
M
 
#2 ·
Where do you get this type of vinyl from?
General auto parts store or specialist signwriter supplies?
Are there better/worser products out there?
Is this the same sort of stuff they wrap cars in?
The way you did the small strip on your seat cowl, did you pre cut that or trimmed it once in place?
What are the winning Lotto numbers for next weekend? :confused:
 
#3 · (Edited)
more info



Hehe, Capitan!

Where do you get this type of vinyl from?
- Sign-writer supply (I ordered here before http://www.ags.com.au/)

General auto parts store or specialist signwriter supplies?
- see above

Are there better/worser products out there?
- there are wet & dry application vinyls out there... and yes, there are low and high quality vinyls out there

Is this the same sort of stuff they wrap cars in?
- yes, although there are different types, see above answer

The way you did the small strip on your seat cowl, did you pre cut that or trimmed it once in place?
- simply pre-cut, roughly measured then cut, then wet-applied. I would never cut after it has been applied. I do believe 'pros' do that but I won't trust it.

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What are the winning Lotto numbers for next weekend? :confused:
- 1, 8, 16, 25, 32, 45... i think



Some more serious information:

Vinyl for dry application

Oracal 970MRA(with air-channels) - I have not used this one before, but sounds similar to the HEX30000 below.

Hexis HX30000 - Used this for my GS when I wrapped it in military green

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Vinyl for wet application

Oracal 970 - <<<< what I used on my 9T

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Arlon 'Calon 2100/2200/2270 Series' - The vinyl used on my GS, photo below. It was more matt than the one above (used on the 9T now).

Wrapped is: Frame, front-end, head-guards, tank, side panels, nose, handle-bars and tail. When I sold the bike I had it for 5 years and the frame as well as the fork, which was still was the original vinyl, were still in very good nick!

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There is an old thread in the ADV Rider Forum where I posted heaps of information too.


Com'on Capitan, you gotta be happy with this complex answer :D

Let me know if you need any more info :eek:


Ohh... and no, I'm no professional sign-writer or vinly pro. I work in IT and have normally nothing to do with this stuff. With a bit of patience anyone can do this.
 
#9 ·
... and front fender bracket ;)

The head-covers are also wrapped? In this pic they reflect light like it is from a painted surface.
 
#14 · (Edited)
man, you check out that awesome 9T of mine... not the GS :eek:

Ok, even though the GS is off-topic, the vinyl wrapping isn't. That's why I have a couple of photos of the 'application' of vinyl and what a coincident... its the application of the green vinyl :D ....only for you Bonko

The GS changed color a couple of times through it's 5 years with me. And no, I sold it in January this year... in matt black. The green was just a phase I went through... I thought it didn't suit the bike too well.

Here are a couple of photos from when I ripped the matt black off and applied the green "dry-application" vinyl.

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...and the final version with all the stickers is in the next post.

Down there
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#19 ·
It simply makes the vinyl flexible... Vinyl should not change size when heated up!

When applying vinyl wet (soapy water) the heatgun does act as a dryer a little bit, but the main goal is to get it flexible and soft you can push it into corners like the BMW letters on the GS's side panels.

This HEX vinyl has the ability to go back to its original shape... ie surface smoothness. You can crumble it up like a piece of paper, warm it up and it straightens itself out without any creases left!
 
#17 ·
Thank you Marc, your directions were the inspiration and made blacking out my forks easy peasy even though I've never wrapped anything!
I used 3M 1080 Scotchprint Matte Black Vinyl Vehicle Wrap Film I bought on ebay and used the liquid solution that came with a Zagg Skin computer wrap kit .


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Even though it wasn't needed for the forks, a friend who does lots of wraps turned me onto this product which should make things even easier for future wrapping projects, I'm might play with a few other bits once I get my bike back from the paint shop:



Thanks again for a comprehensive DIY, sticky worthy!
 
#21 ·
Snorkel vinyled...

oh oh... I just shouldn't have any spare time on my hands... tztztz... :mad: ...and then all that Vinyl flying around... :mad:

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[have to put sticker on - have to put sticker on - have to put sticker on - have to put sticker on - have to put sticker on - have to put sticker on - have to put sticker on - have to put sticker on - have to put sticker on - have to put sticker on - [have to put sticker on - have to put sticker on - have to put sticker on - have to put sticker on - have to put sticker on - have to put sticker on - have to put sticker on - have to put sticker on - have to put sticker on - have to put sticker on - ....................] :mad:
 
#26 ·
Yeah, already done. Don't like it much, I mean not at all. Vinyl is so much more robust!

The front fender braces and the exhaust bracket are still plasti-dip. It already starts coming off where rocks hit the braces or where the screws are.

Except for the ease of application I can't see a reason for using that stuff again. I certainly won't.

Also, cleaning that stuff: it feels like rubber you can't just wipe it clean. The vinyl is so easily cleaned even with a dry cloth.
 
#29 ·
Agree, but good to try first to see if you like the look. Certainly not a permanent solution.

Your bike is certainly becoming the Darth Vader of 9Ts.... Get the license plate VADR? :)
 
#28 ·
Hi there!
Firstly, thanks for sharing your experience of this - i think that'll be a nice little project for me (and potentially a nice alternative to a paint job).

firstly - you mentioned you used Oracal 970. Just to confirm. That's plain 970, not 970RA or the other one you mentioned which was a dry install (970RAM?). I don't know if they have different numbers for whether it's a dry/wet install or if you essentially get 970RA dry and 970 RA wet :)

secondly - 'wierd shapes' - like the hump etc. In my head I can imagine a likelyhood of 'creasing' the vinyl. Purely from translating a flat 2d shape to a curve 3d (ish) shape. Do you have to do weird cuts and join them together or does it stretch/magically conform somehow? (i'm thinking of my own experience with leather here so Vinyl might have different properties).

Finally (and thanks for being patient) - you mentioned the heat gun was used to make it more pliant. Is that used all over as a general application or just for those awkward areas such as the badge roundel or bits of detail?

Given me lots to think about - doing the old Google search for a supplier in the UK. :)

Ant
 
#30 ·
firstly - you mentioned you used Oracal 970. Just to confirm. That's plain 970, not 970RA or the other one you mentioned which was a dry install (970RAM?). I don't know if they have different numbers for whether it's a dry/wet install or if you essentially get 970RA dry and 970 RA wet :)
mhhmmm... to be honest, I didn't know there were all these different types :eek:

I'm not a pro in things Vinyl so I can only suggest to ask the supplier. Sorry.

secondly - 'wierd shapes' - like the hump etc. In my head I can imagine a likelyhood of 'creasing' the vinyl. Purely from translating a flat 2d shape to a curve 3d (ish) shape. Do you have to do weird cuts and join them together or does it stretch/magically conform somehow? (i'm thinking of my own experience with leather here so Vinyl might have different properties).
Yes, weird shapes are a very good test for your patience! If you have never applied vinyl try something simple first, something rather flat and not many curves.

Just as an example: The tank of the GS is probably the worse form I've ever attempted to cover in vinyl. It has so many complex curves that run against each other that I was close to crying when I tried it the first time.

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But NO, there are no cuts made. I'm not sure how professionals are doing it but I start on a most even surface, like the middle part of the hump and work my way down the back and sides.

And yes, you are correct, 'translating a flat 2d shape into a form like the hump you will have excess material, so there will be 'creasing' but the vinyl, especially the type for complex curves is very stretchable. So by warming it up and stretching, always in small pieces, you will eventually form the vinyl to the weirdest shapes.

However, it will have its limits. I don't believe the 9T's tank is something that could be wrapped, or at least I won't be able to do it.

If you have four (4) hands you could warm up the entire sheet first and pull it over the hump in one go. I've seen that on U-Tube been done to a car mirror. But unfortunately I have only two (2) hands. So for me its a bit by bit application.


Finally (and thanks for being patient) - you mentioned the heat gun was used to make it more pliant. Is that used all over as a general application or just for those awkward areas such as the badge roundel or bits of detail?
I tend to used it for 'all over'. It just makes the material a lot mould-able. You might be able to see the vinyl strip I put on the tank's back. It's a very even surface. Even there I used the heat-gun as it makes it a lot easier.


So, I hope this helps. I've been doing this now for at least 5 years on my bikes and when people ask me how to do it the one thing I keep telling them is: Patience! It certainly is something that puts your patience to the test.

Have Fun!
 
#33 ·
What a great idea Marc, Ive already some abrasions from all the communting with my tank bag with my laptop AND lunch strapped to the top ( the bag drags across the tank over road surface irregularities ) so this is a fantastic solution.
AND i think the matte/gloss contrast is really really cool.

Great idea.

Stolen.
 
#35 ·
mhmm, I'm assuming you mean the BMW logo at the back?

I warmed it up a bit and then lifted it gently off with a flat-head screw driver... but REALLY GENTLE. It is stuck on with some sort of foam double sided tape. I 'gives' very slowly when you lift it UNTIL you win and it flips off... so again, very gentle and expect it to suddenly come off. If you don't it might make a mark in that soft aluminium while being tipped up.

I think I used 3M Glass-double sided stuff.
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I think its called 'Double Sided 3M Clear Acrylic Foam Tape' or so. It's got the same properties as that foam. I sticks very well but comes off as well if you want it to, slowly.
 
#36 ·
Hey Marc, thanks for the great instructions. ?

I'll be putting all of your teachings into practice on a project bike soon, beats painting!

I can't get my head around how you get the vinyl to fill in small depressions, like the small 'hole' on the seat cowl where that logo is. Why doesn't the vinyl just spring back up to the top, are you stretching it down into the depression? Does it actually stick down in there, or do you have to give it extra slack to keep it down?
If you were to do a long crease between two panels would you cut and overlap, or just work it into the dip.

Cheers and keep up the good work. :D
 
#37 · (Edited)
I'm really happy you guys appreciate the photos, it's good. Thank you!

Why doesn't the vinyl just spring back up to the top, are you stretching it down into the depression? Does it actually stick down...
Yes, it sticks. The vinyl's back-side is adhesive. Here is a photo of my thumb-fingerprint on the adhesive side:

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So you put soap water on the adhesive back-side while you pull it off its carrier material, bit by bit (try to have as little dry adhesive area as possible). There is no need to completely soak it. A nice spray of soapwater is good enough...

So you use soap-water...
  • for '1', to keep dust away from the sticky side (it automatically draws dust-particles)...
  • and for '2' to be able to move it into place...
  • and '3', to be able to push out any air bubbles.

Once you squeezed the soap-water from underneath out to the sides (always work your way from the inside to the outside) the adhesiveness (glue) takes over and binds to the surface.

Combine that with a heat-gun and there you go... you can move the material into pretty much any creases... when warmed up the vinyl gets really flexible!

If you were to do a long crease between two panels would you cut and overlap, or just work it into the dip.
...so to answer your other question... I'd just work it into the dip. It may take a little bit when you have too much soap-water until it dries up and sticks...

Best example, the NineT letters on the snorkel:

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Unfortunately with the snorkel I wasn't patient enough and applied the vinyl without soap water.
Hence why you can see these little lines above the 'n' towards the dot of the 'i'.
They form when the vinyl sticks properly and you pull it away again to remove airbubbles.
Sucks... but you hardly see it when you are beside the bike. :cool:
 
#38 ·
B&B & VWC (Vinyl Wrap Course)

that's all well and good but my last two attempts with clear vinyl wrapping turned out rather shameful :eek: nothing could save that debacle - had to rip it off again! :mad: hot air gun can only hide/fix so much :eek:
so now I go a MUCH much better idea: eventually I'll be getting off this Island to make my way through Oz-midlands to Darwin heading East and down the Coast - why don't I book myself into Marc's for B&B plus hands-on-crash-course in vinyl wrapping? Going by all your photos Marc, PATIENCE must be one of your superpowers - surely you wouldn't mind taking on an apprentice for a long weekend or so? :D