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BaldyDave's 9T Mods

402K views 660 replies 139 participants last post by  BaldyDave 
#1 ·
Well here's what I'm getting up to in my den this winter. The weather is officially shitty and my bike has been tucked away in semi hibernation for a month now. Time to amuse myself and start bolting on bits that I'd been gathering since buying the bike, but couldn't stop riding it for long enough to fit. ;)


Firstly I added some BMW cam cover protectors....





Not bad for £80 the pair. Won't be worth sh1t in a high speed tumble but will help in low speed tips...


Next up was fitting the BMW tank bag harness... Very easy and the harness looks good enough to leave on the bike without the bag. Added bonus is that the harness will help protect the tank and save me buying a tank protector.





Now for the expensive part! Ilmberger carbon fiber Hugger! ;)

An easy enough install once the silencer and rear wheel is removed, but I was uneasy with simply using the bolts provided with the Hugger as the bolts that came off the rear bevel drive had large captive washers on them, so I used some that I had in the garage. Took it nice and steady torqueing up the bolts to the required value given by Ilmberger, and there were a few creaks of complaint from the hugger as I neared full tightness. Sweaty palms time! lol








MMMMMMMMMMMM.....Carbon fiber goodness!





Very happy with how the bike looks so far.... Now waiting for the Motobox LED tail tidy before ditching the exhaust flapper valve and bolting the rear wheel and silencer back on.


Oh and I managed to find a use for that ugly diving board at the back of the bike before the tail tidy arrives.... ;)





Will add to this thread when the Motobox bits arrive... .Stay tuned! :)
 
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#3 ·
wow I think we may be on the same speed I pretty much did similar stuff.
But I do like the tank protector idea. My idea for that same reason was going to be Bagster.com or DE etc. :) and they have the full tank cover so I know I would be cloaking it and maybe not pretty but I didnt think of your idea. Till Now
 
#4 ·
Hey Dave, What's in the mug? Bike looks great. A word of advice on the tank strap...Cut out a piece of microfibre cloth the same contour as the front part of the strap(Where it is closest to the key) and keep it under the strap when you tighten it all up. That is the one area where I have seen accelerated wear under the strap.
 
#5 ·
Sadly just strong coffee! I was driving early the next morning. The drink drive limit was recently reduced to 50mg in Scotland, so even a pint of beer could kill your licence. Bit of a pain in the rear, but better safe than sorry.

Thanks for the tip for the tank bag harness. :)

Can't wait for the Motobox Tail tidy to arrive!

Still not fully decided on the bar end mirrors I'm going for, but think it's almost certain that I'll be opting for Oberon bar end indicators to go with the Oberon indicators that Motobox will be supplying with the tail tidy.
 
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#16 ·
Thank you, I'm not planning to trade-in my girlfriend anytime soon..... ;)

The stand is great value for money and easy to use. You have to order one for an R1200R but it just fits. I would recommend you create loops to "tie up" the rider footpegs as they come very close to the stand when using it. I used 2 cable ties to create the correct diameter of loop for each peg and keeep them hung drom a nail in the garage! They work a treat and take 30 secs to install both! Can be reused infinitely! The rear of the bike is jacked up high (about 6") and if you use a scissor jack under the front of the engine you can have two wheels in the air at the same time!

I'll try posting a couple of pics below:





Here's a link to the manufacturer's web site:

Superbike Stand - Abba Stands, UK

Hope this is useful to you. :)
 
#15 ·
Ohhhhhhh my goodness (heavily censored version!)

I just quickly started my bike to hear the effect of the flapperectomy. WOWWWWW!!! So much nicer. Got a noticeably louder and deeper sound at low revs with more of a hard edge to it. I can only imagine what it's going to sound like on the road...... :D
 
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#17 ·
Ok until the Motobox stuff arrives, I've busied myself with bolting on a few trinkets to my bike.


I managed to pick up a couple of bargains on eBay at a decent saving. Seems like the guy pulled out of buying a 9T after he had bought some accessories.... All brand new and sealed in boxes.


I got R&G Shaft Protector and Fork protectors which were dead easy to fit, and along with the cam cover protectors will help prevent damage in low speed tumbles.


Literally took 15minutes work in the garage and all was done!


First the shaft protector - 5 mins to fit....





Lastly the fork protector, 10 mins work to get it sitting exactly right....





There is an identical "crash bobbin" on the other side of the wheel.


I also started work on fitting my Garmin Sat Nav to the bike by installing a RAM mount on the handlebar clamp. Not posting a pic of this as it's boring and the job is not completed.... ;)
 
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#26 ·
Well my Motobox LED tail tidy is stuck in UK customs, so I tackled the Sat Nav install!


Modified the existing Garmin wiring loom by hacking off all the unnecessary (to me) connections, leaving just the power. Purchased a BMW plug to join to the Garmin loom and this then connects to the dedicated BMW Sat Nav power outlet socket that sits under the side of the tank. Neatly soldered and shrink-wrapped things back together again and tie-wrapped the new loom to my bike. I used a RAM mount that replaces one of the handlebar bolts (think originally @Lost Rider found the item) together with parts of the mounting kit that came with my Garmin 590 and voila, job done!


Couple of Pics below, but considering putting together a Step-by-Step guide to install the Sat Nav.


1.RAM Mount





2. Solderng and heat-shrinking the BMW plug to the Garmin wiring loom.





3. Finished join.





4. Garmin cradle mounted on the bike.





5. With Garmin blanking cover fitted.





6. With Sat Nav mounted!





7. After about a minute after switching ignition off you should see this message as CANBUS powers down....





Can't wait for Motobox kit to arrive now!



Should also say that this is just V1 of the Sat Nav mount. There will be a V2 which should make the entire cradle easily removable from the bike within a minute. That won't be for a couple of months, though! ;)
 
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#353 · (Edited by Moderator)
Well my Motobox LED tail tidy is stuck in UK customs, so I tackled the Sat Nav install!


Modified the existing Garmin wiring loom by hacking off all the unnecessary (to me) connections, leaving just the power. Purchased a BMW plug to join to the Garmin loom and this then connects to the dedicated BMW Sat Nav power outlet socket that sits under the side of the tank. Neatly soldered and shrink-wrapped things back together again and tie-wrapped the new loom to my bike.

Couple of Pics below, but considering putting together a Step-by-Step guide to install the Sat Nav.

2. Solderng and heat-shrinking the BMW plug to the Garmin wiring loom.




3. Finished join.


This is a great post and I've taken your advice onboard.

I bought the Bmw plug and now need to solder to the Garmin wiring loom.

Just wondering which of the 3 yellow wires goes where. The Garmin has a red and black wire. The bmw plug has 3 yellow wires numbered 1,2 &3.







Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#27 ·
Zumo 590 Mounting

Dave,

I too am planning to mount my 590 (when I get bike next month). Do you know RAM part No of that ball you have used in steering clamp? Can't seem to locate it on RAM website?
Also, is the rest of the mounting kit all come with the Zumo?
I was planning to use the BMW Navigator mounting bracket which another forum member used, but your solution looks simpler, just replacing a bolt with the ball mount?
Cheers for any help.
 
#28 ·
Dave,

I too am planning to mount my 590 (when I get bike next month). Do you know RAM part No of that ball you have used in steering clamp? Can't seem to locate it on RAM website?
Also, is the rest of the mounting kit all come with the Zumo?
I was planning to use the BMW Navigator mounting bracket which another forum member used, but your solution looks simpler, just replacing a bolt with the ball mount?
Cheers for any help.
I bought the RAM handlebar mount from Amazon. The link is below.

RAM 1" BALL BASE WITH HOLE: Amazon.co.uk: Car & Motorbike

The solution I used is a bit simpler than the BMW bracket and a LOT cheaper.

Depending on your needs you may need to shorten and simplify the supplied Garmin wiring loom. I can give you help on that if you need it.

All the extra stuff apart from the BMW plug and the ball mount is supplied in the box with the 590.
 
#29 ·
OK Phase 1 of project Motobox is finished. I've still to fit the front Oberon bar end indicators but here's some photos of my progress so far:


1. Seat off, ECU lifted and tail assembly detached.





2. Motobox LED kit (including Oberon indicators) fitted. Pretty bright!





3. The finished rear end, just need to fit number plate and fine tune indicator orientation. Note the white light at the centre of the LED strip for number plate illumination...











Will post more pics when front LEDs installed. :)
 
#437 ·
Hi Dave,

This looks the business! and I want to do the same to mine (after 3 years of saying I will!).

I'm completely electrically inept, is this a simple plug n play like you say? can I just follow the instructions? or do you need to have some electrical knowledge?

I also have the alarm fitted so not sure if that changes the whole job?

How many hours work do you reckon it is?

Questions, questions!!!

Rich
 
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#32 ·
Yeah I think it's a huge improvement over standard.


Be sure you let Estevan at Motobox know you want the LED strip to be a tail/stop light only, and that you want Oberons.
 
#31 ·
No, so far no resistors have been needed, indicators flashing at normal rate. The big test will be when I replace the OEM front indicators as that might be when I hit issues.

I have resistors on standby just in case, though there might be a chance that an ECU settings adjustment might resolve the issue, though this seems to be a matter of some debate on here.

***EDIT***

No cannibalisation, the tail LED unit and Oberons are the Motobox LED lit which is advertised elsewhere in another thread. Motobox kindly wired the indicators without me asking! The kit is bolt on and plug and play. No splicing of the OEM wiring needed. :)
 
#44 ·
Drat! I did do a BMW parts search and the official reapir plug listed for the R9T (83302152864) costs an incredible £21.49 EACH! :eek: So I thought the Rizoma stuff was great value in comparison!

Your part is listed as fitting models like a K1200S but would have definitely fitted my bike too! It costs £6.41 for each cable, so would have been a better bet as my local BMW dealer is only 10 miles away. Would have saved a little and got my parts faster. Oh well! Still, I've not been ripped off by that much (especially for a Rizoma part). :D
 
#45 ·
Bolted my standard numberplate to the bike a few days ago...... It lasted approximately 5 minutes on the bike before it got taken straight back off again! It was HUGE compared to the nicely minimalist back end since the Motobox tail tidy was installed.

Got a 8 inch by 6 inch plate made up, which isn't exactly tiny (just an inch less long and wide than standard) but it makes a huge difference to the look of the rear end of the bike. Much happier now! It's in proportion!

The plate isn't really small so though it's slightly illegal, the letters are large and I can't see the police pulling me for it on it's own. My Le Mans has a 7 x 5 inch plate and I've never been stopped for that....

Both bikes will have the original plates on standby for MOT time though...... ;)

Other developments is that I got the Rizoma indicator conversion wires in on Saturday, so tonight I temporarily wired up the front Oberon LED indicators. Now with all 4 Oberons on the bike I'm still getting normal flash rates.

Thanks to @Freddy for the assist on wiring adapters!

Will post pictures after my FMX bars arrive and everything is bolted to them. :)
 
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#46 ·
Well in the odd free moments over the last few days I've started preparations for the handlebar transplant. The black Pastrana FMX handlebars arrived and I've de-badged the bars and lopped some width off them as I feel the stock bars are a wee bit too wide for me.

Sorry for the rubbish and blurry shots. Think I was needing my coffee! lol ;)

Here's the bars de-badged! Just left the central measurement and product lettering in place, the rest is gone. :) As recommended by forum members, I used Acetone to do this.





Central lettering remaining...





After the bar was cut. Check out how thick the bar walls are!





The bars were cut at position 3 as this seems to be the optimum cut that can safely be made, and besides I want a bit of tolerance left to fine tune the grips and lever clamps positions. To be honest the cheap pipe cutters really struggled but the secret was to use WD40 to lube the cutting area when the cut was in progress. A hacksaw is probably a better idea if you can cut straight. But as I'm a liability with a saw this was definitely the safer approach! ;)


Now trying to psyche myself up for the bar transplant! :eek:
 
#48 ·
...
The bars were cut at position 3 as this seems to be the optimum cut that can safely be made, and besides I want a bit of tolerance left to fine tune the grips and lever clamps positions. To be honest the cheap pipe cutters really struggled but the secret was to use WD40 to lube the cutting area when the cut was in progress. A hacksaw is probably a better idea if you can cut straight. But as I'm a liability with a saw this was definitely the safer approach! ;)

Now trying to psyche myself up for the bar transplant! :eek:
Hey Dave,

one thing that I never mentioned that might help you with the bar transplant.

It'll be VERY VERY hard to slide things up on the left side handlebar. And since you'll want to do it a couple of times (to measure where to drill the hole) one thing that helped me immensely was to get some sandpaper and sand it down a little bit before trying to slide the controls back in...
 
#49 ·
The good thing is that I've no hair on my head left to pull out! ;)

Not started the job yet so that might be a handy thing to consider. Was going to spray the clutch grip side with WD40 or some silicone lube spray to prevent this issue, but it might be worth while buffing down the serrations too.

Thanks for the tip. :)
 
#53 ·
Are you keeping the stock grips and switchgear? Both sides are "sleeved" and slip onto the stock bar without any friction - no lube / glue needed. There is a through hold drilled on the stock bar that can be duplicated on the new bar and the swap should only take a few minutes. Just measure where to put the hole.
 
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