Now we adjust the "threaded goody". The one with plenty of red loctite on its' locking (grub?) screw that you've probably read about...

Fortunately acetone will dissolve the loctite. With the loctite dissolved the locking screw on mine loosened easily.

Heck, man! Where were you when I was hauling on my grub screw???? OOOPS that almost sounded rude! 0

Good tip about using acetone! I'll remember that next time!

 

Gotta be carefull, you're girlfriend might feel left out...

Acetone is the usual primer for "real" Loctite if you want best performance and does to an extent dissolve it. I wasn't sure how it would work on what BMW uses but it pretty much instantly turned it to goo and freed up the screw.

 

@tomcatt

Very good advice. Cheers.

How many threads showing are on YOUR Brake and Clutch side?

 

I only did the brake side and ended up with 9 exposed threads but that's probably 9 +/- 1/2 or so depending... The big thing is making sure the port is opened. That's where the problem seems to be when the clutch slips after changing levers.

 

And of course port would stay closed if rod is pushing it in too much. So, purely theoretically, it would be better to err on the side of LESS threads showing rather than MORE.

 

So, purely theoretically, it would be better to err on the side of LESS threads showing rather than MORE.

You definitely want to err on the side of less threads showing.

 

For those of us who need visuals (Like me!)

I believe this is what we have:

 

Yes, thanks for the pic. The piston does nothing except push fluid out the bleed port until the port closes. Sooo, to reduce free travel you put the piston close to the port closing point.

 

And of course THE fine point here is to put it CLOSE but not OVER

 

Yes, the members who had clutches slipping after changing levers found that point. It's just luck it didn't happen on the brake side...

 

BTW: See how there MUST be some room in the MC reservoir for the extra fluid to go there? Guess what happens if overzealous person with best intentions fills that reservoir all the way to the very top? Where does that extra fluid go when lever is squeezed? That is correct - leaks out through the top.

 

BTW: See how there MUST be some room in the MC reservoir for the extra fluid to go there?

The caps' gasket has a trapped air space on the top side of the gasket that makes it near impossible to overfill the reservoir and hydraulic lock the system. It's pretty "idiot proof".

 

Mine were filled to the very VERY brim with the rubber membrane almost floating on top of it. Not surprising it was weeping and eating paint. I have replace waiting for me at the dealer.

 

OK so.... LOL

At 7 threads showing my brake has quite a bit of "Nothing interesting happens" slop. Once its starts to grab it does so well and with no issue.

What do you chaps think? Should i bump it up to 8?

 

If you want minimal free travel you adjust 'til the port isn't open and go back. Problem is it's hidden so you can't see this happening and can only see the "bulge" in the reservoir fluid from fluid coming out the open port at the very beginning of the lever travel. You're the one that's there to see it on your bike.

 

Gentlemen, help an old sailor out here. I looked at my brake assembly and what I saw was the "goody" piece with what looks like a 2.0 or 2.5 hex bolt in the end. What I saw underneath was a "red" dot. I'm assuming that that is the dreaded loctited bolt. If what I just said makes sense then all I need to do is remove the loctite and turn the adjusting screw accordingly.

 

What's covered in red and "underneath" is the lock screw. You have to loosen it to turn the "adjuster" aka threaded goody. Acetone will dissolve the red thread locker. A Torx T-8 is the correct tool.

 

Sorry for not being clear - Is it cool to go up whole tread or should i do like 1/2?

 

I don't think there's a flat for the lock screw (didn't notice one) so turn it as much or little as you see fit.

 

Would any of you be willing to post a photo of what needs what in order to do this? I'd love to adjust the brake lever response but am too much of a dolt to follow the instructions from the OP... there being a safety issue and all.:nerd:

 

I'm not speaking for @tomcatt as he's fine in that department (hehe - no offence mate) but some things like the bulge in the brake fluid would be difficult to photograph.

Here's a picture of the "threaded goody" that tomcatt mentioned. You can see the cylindrical pivot that the goody screws through. On the bottom of it is where the threaded grub screw is.....



If you are nervous about doing this adjustment my advice would be to take it to a dealer and let a mechanic do the work for you. No point in playing with your safety and the safety of other road users if you are not confident in doing the job right.....

Being a home mechanic is great but we all have to be aware of our limitations... Some of the stuff on here that I've seen other members tackle with aparent ease I'd be picking up the phone and calling for someone that's way more competent than I to do the work for me! lol

PS What the heck is a goody anyway????? That slang for a "thingy" or is it another name for a pushrod/adjuster?

 

Not familiar with grub screws, aside from a liberal coating of acetone, what is the correct way to undo the much feared grub screw ?
A first for me, a post or reply not connected with Flapper Valves, must be going up in the world ?

Marky Mark

 

Sorry since looked more closely and understand previous posts

 

Its just a small hex-headed screw that is buried into the lever assembly and prevents Pushrod thingie from getting loose. Seems like its universally over liberally coated with Red Thread locker. (Interesting that its the issue only on ONE lever not both. Sigurd must be experienced and Franz must be new)

I personally, used a dentist type pick to remove excess from the inside the screw itself and around it. I had so much that bit would not even insert in. But once i cleaned it up i was able to put it all the way and used ratchet to crack it open.

This should be really not an issue for anyone. Truly. Just a tiny little obstacle

 

Yep I did the same. I used a small dubbing needle (fly tying don't ask) after applying some acetone to clear the head of the grub screw of gooey thread lock and after that it was a piece of cake with a T8. Brill help and support from the forum as usual and big shout for Acetone, it's my favourite accessory don't you know.

 

Just do not sniff or taste it. Its real foul

 

It is moderately nasty and is readily absorbed thru your skin so don't use it as hand cleaner...

 

Once you've had a play on either or both levers I'd suggest going for a ride with your T8 handily (and safely stowed) because I needed to adjust mine back a turn on the clutch side after riding for 15 miles in a 'spirited fashion' it looked ok on the stand in terms of clutch bite point but was different once the engine was warm. Definitely makes the braking more responsive (less lag) and maybe a tad smoothy going into bends on the overrun.
Once you're happy of course you need to thread lock that grubby little screw ?
Marky Mark

 

Mark has pretty-much did what I did. Test rode the bike after getting the settings roughly right and then fine tuned the setup from there. The clutch needed no adjustment at all even after really nailing the throttle when the engine had fully warmed up. The brake side needed a full turn in to take up slightly too much slack before the brakes started to bite. It's no big hassle to take a small allen key with you to do the final setup on the road.

Brakes definitely seem better than they were previously. Possibly placebo in some ways, but the lack of lever travel before the brakes bite compared to before does make the anchors seem more responsive and less snatchy. However the shorter levers may have something to do with the snatchiness reducing as well - hard to say as both modifications took place at the same time.

Now where did I put the loctite?????

 

So how many threads are showing for YOU to make YOU happy?

 

Just for you I've been out to the garage, whipped off both levers and had a count.

I reckon 5 on clutch side and 7 and a bit on brake side.

That setting has made me content, but not happy with my R Nine T....

Mark

 

Please post a picture where you count the threads !

 

Mark

Thanks! Why not happy?

 

Whyara,

Dave's picture on page 3/4 of this thread shows the threaded area. Zoom in on it and you'll see the threads clearly. I can't stress what other people have said, take care with this work especially on the brake side and check the bite point by rotating the front wheel before you ride.

25psi, I was joshing a bit as my colleagues say my default setting is grumpy. I'm enjoying the bike more with each ride and the tinkering that it takes...just need to get that bar changed and fork internals sorted.

Mark

 

Man i wish there was an easy way to rotate front wheel with no stand