[BlitzSchnell]

I’m riding a 2015 with tube tires and have had one flat since 2015, it was a slow leak so I could stop frequently at gas stations and pump it back up. I’ve changed sets of tires because of wear three times my self and once by a tire shop. It was not difficult to find 17” tubes here in Dallas so I’m of no help to you there… I would never run Outex … trying to make a tubeless tire from a rim that’s not airtight is futile. If you ride adventure then go tubeless .. that makes sense … if your strictly a road bike stay with a tube. In my experience … a tube tire going flat at 80 handles much better than a tubeless at the same speed.
Tubeless tires flatten much faster than tubed tires ,.. IMO … There are plenty of rim sizes available both tubed and tubeless but it’s not cheap … I was looking at 16” so I could run fat bobber style tires and that was around $1K a wheel, no tires .. just wheels .. to rich for my blood and besides … I love how Blitz corners right now .. that would go away by changing tires for the sake of looks .. ain’t happening. I’m keeping my Ross’s …. If you still can’t find the tubes you want send me the specifics, I’ll see what I can find here and If you’d like …I’ll ship you some tubes. BeWell @Granitedigger ……………………………….Blitz

 

[BlitzSchnell]

Can only, sort of/partially answer this one: I did my own solution 2 years and 8000km ago with Sika 291i marine sealant smeared on top of the domes and then taped on top of that with 3M 4411N tape on my 2018 Classic. It holds air much better than the original tubed solution. Before I had to top off air every 2 weeks or so, now maybe every 2 months.

I have the opposite experience you have, I had an instantaneous total pressure loss during a turn leaning to the right on the front tubed wheel of an XT350 and I found myself rolling on the ground across the oncoming traffic but luckily did not get hit by anything. It's very, very unlikely that a non tubed tyre will do that.

That sound like a catastrophic failure … what was the cause ? Did you strike something in the road ? Was the tire worn ? Was the tube over-pressured ? What was the temperature when it happened ? What was the weight being carried on the motorcycle …………. My point is… there are many variables that go into getting a flat … including just bad luck. The different opinions about tubed or tubeless usually seems to fall between road bikes and adventure bikes.
If you need to fix a flat while trail riding then a plug is half the work … but then you weigh in that your likely to have twice as many tire issues off road than on the highway and it evens out. I think both tube and tubeless have a place in motor biking or there’d stop making one. I don’t know much about professional off-road racing but I do know professional on-road racing … racing that pushes 200 mph regularly …and they BY FAR prefer tubed tires. There are some novelty riders trying to shed the weight of tubes to gain an edge ...but the overwhelming majority of riders use tubes for high speeds …. I agree that a Tubeless tire fixes faster but tubed tires go faster …. So where you ride and how you ride have much to do with your preference. I’m sad you had a crash @laalves that’s always tough on all of us. I hope you have better luck with tubeless than I have had. I run road bikes and it’s always going to be a tubed/spoked Classic for me 👍🏻 CheersMate ……. Blitz

 

[BlitzSchnell]

That's a very brotherly offer @BlitzSchnell , thank you. Honestly, I think it's more of a small town problem than an uncommon tube problem. I reached the same conclusion you did about Outex the first time I was looking at replacing tubes, but often wondered if placing some type of dome over each spoke nipple, leaving room for them to turn without disrupting the adhesive would cure the most obvious flaw in the concept. Ultimately, I decided changing tubes just wasn't that much of a headache, and shouldn't happen all that often. I've changed tires on motocross wheels by myself regularly over the past few years, but my levers tend to leave the the rims with what we'll call a rather unattractive patina. I haven't had the heart to take them to these shiny black wheels. The good news is that I'm only 20 miles from the 49th parallel, so I can solve all my small town troubles with a quick run to Vancouver, where I'm sure I'll be able to find a shop with both the right tools and the right tubes. Who knows, I may even make a new friend or two in the process, eh? Tomorrow may be a good day for that, since MLK Day doesn't have a Canadian equivalent. In a former life I built lots of spoked bicycle wheels, so the idea of lacing a new tubeless rim into the wheel intrigues me, but I've only found replacement wheels, not rims.

I agree Digger, I’ve been changing bike tubes for many years now …and with no problems or complaints. Take a look at a product I found a while back that’s called “Bead Buddy” To protect your rims while you spoon away at the flat tire … it’s a good product. They make many items all designed for tube users joy. At one time I thought I wanted to convert to 16” rims so I could run some fat-boy Bobber style tires but when I saw what it would cost .. for a “look” just didn’t seem worth it … not to mention that the road handling goes to hell too … I’ll stick with tubed road tires … one flat since 2015 thru 3 sets of tires working on 4 … ONE flat ! …………. anyway Dig, I’m a source if all else fails Mate …………………. BeWell & StayUpOn2 …………. Blitz

 

[BlitzSchnell]

@alegerlotz .. This Beemer of mine hasn’t been under warranty in well over 5 years so I can’t really relate to dealerships or promises they make these days or the limits it keeps you under. Tubed not tubed … Long live the difference ! Each to his own. All reasons are right. How about this … I know they manufacture a specialty tire that has a very stiff solid tire inside the tubeless tire so if you get a flat it only drops an inch or so and then rides on a stiff rubber inner tire … emergency vehicles, armored cars, battle vehicles … rides that just can’t go down because of a flat …….. do tires like that exist for motorcycles … seems like adventure bikes, dirt bikes, outdoorsmen types would be all over that kind of dependability … it CANT go flat … it can loose it’s air and performance level and it will ride pretty hard … but still support you and get you home and won’t ruin the rim …… win/win ……………….. Blitz

 

[BlitzSchnell]

Hi Blitz, check on revzilla, Nutech Tubliss, its aimed at making motorcross tyres tubeless on standard spoked rims with a dual valve and sheathed tube, which keeps the tyre seated/ locked,
they have been out a few years, my friend had them on for a while,
Forest

Thanks for the info … but I never off road these days, I fall down to much. Getting old is not bad, it’s getting up that’s getting difficult..! Besides I’d be even more nervous than I already am when sustaining 130+ for as bloody-long as I can hold my breath before letting up …on anything but road worthy rubber. In my experience you get what you pay for …… when you like to go fast …… as fast as you can go ……. as often as you can get away with it …… spend the money it takes to own the roads you ride …. Be that Knobby, Slick, Hard, Soft, Sticky …. What ever works. When you get right you get two things … (one), you get around corners at speeds that will shock and elate you at the same time … (two) you’ll get the biggest grin on your face when you reach the apex in one piece and feel the acceleration coming on strong as you pull out and start thinking about setting up the next corner … all ..while still trying to figure why you didn’t die getting around the last turn you now see disappearing in your rear view mirror …….. Blitz’s TT tribute 100 a day, at least once every ride……..
I’m going to stick with old school traditions and tubed tires too ,,,………… thanks for the resource …….. StayUpOn2 ………………………….. 🫡Blitz

 

[BlitzSchnell]

I would suggest people reading this thread google a bit on tubeless vs tubed, because a lot of the advice here on road riding/racing is the opposite to what I thought was common knowledge these days.

Do you road race your Urban ..? Please post links to the articles you’re referencing …. I read (and will post the links as soon as I can find them again) …anyway … the heart of it was, (most of these articles were about the TT and the Professional opinions of the Riders and their tire people) …and YES there are a few mostly un-sponsored clubs that are running tubeless. Their thoughts had nothing to do with performance and everything to do with weight and of course that has to do with performance. They are considered renegades and the majority of riders prefer tubes ..(that they glue to the inside of the tire).. That’s an old school trick to protect the tube nipple from torque damage …..
I suppose @sizzlingbadger if we dug deep enough we could find written opinion that filling your tubes with noble gas would make your tires smarter too. I don’t really follow anyone, I tend to listen to others opinions when they are generous enough to share thoughts with me but odds are I already have formed my conclusion … I tend to respect the pavement as it goes flashing by … inches from my tender knee cap at 80 or so … as I’m looking in near panic for the apex and a way out of what feels like a death spiral (so powerful) I’m thinking about that front tire and just how much faster I can go …… you see I can remember (while racing as a younger man) just what it was like to have tire failures that cost me the race ….. never happened with a tube ! Maybe just coincidence … who could know ?
You said Google … Here’s a Google …..

You can open each of those categories but …Note the last catagory …. About which rim type looses air faster …. There is a point at which the same type tire puncture in either rim type will cause catastrophic failure … it’s the tubeless … when the pressure drops low enough for the bead to separate ALL tire integrity disappears …. With a puncture in a tube the only place for the air to escape is the point of puncture .. even when the pressure gets low enough to affect the bead. So I stand my ground … Old School Rules … Again … everybody has a choice … although I live in America the majority never rules me ! ……… I aim to misbehave ……… I’ll be riding on tubes with confidence and looking down at my clock click by 135 regularly. I kiss my gas cap every time I punch 100 thinking what my life would have been like as a pro-moto-maniac. Maniacal dreams of power and trophies … oh well, next lifetime maybe ! …….,,………………… Blitz

 

[BlitzSchnell]

I thought we were talking about motorcycles

The thread IS about motorcycles @sizzlingbadger, you referred me to evidence that tubeless were better IYO …specifically motorcycle tires, tube vs. tubeless …. Maybe it should be about attention span and when to concede instead of attempt to confuse … truly one of the lost and dying arts … it used to be called debate … rarely happens these days, it requires another art it’s called listening 🤔 it’s OK … as they say in Texas “No matter what, ..stick to you guns Cowboy, even when they’re empty … points awarded to both systems, for very different reasons. You might go back and re-read your posts to familiarize your self with the thread topic again .. and then do what you suggested that we do and google the topic in varying styles of inquiry and take a consensus of lots and lots of opinion’s …. for me in the interim my opinion is the only one that counts anyway, these tires AND tubes will be going on Blitz regardless …. But I’m always interested in other ideas even when I don’t agree …. The silly part is … I DO agree … tubes for track tubeless for trails …. Now where did I put my plug kit ? ………………………………………………………………………. Blitz

I sold my old Velox tubular repair kits as collectibles on eBay years ago. And I can't say I've missed the careful sewing project that had to be done after patching a punctured tubular. Haven't ever tried modern tubeless on a bicycle, butI will say I've been surprised by my experience with the two recent punctures on my r nineT.

Despite what I expected to happen, having read a lot of the discussion on tubes vs tubeless, both times the puncture resulted in a slow leak. The first, a packing staple, was picked up on an early morning ride before work. When I came out of the building 9 hours later, the rear tire was flat. I didn't even try to pump it up. I should have. When I got it back to the shop, we aired it up and held air well into the next day.

The drywall screw that I picked up last weekend that you see in the photo was as long as my little finger, and stuck straight into the tire. I saw it when I got back from my ride, and didn't notice anything troubling while riding. When I unscrewed it from the tire, I got the instant pssssssss as soon as the screw was extracted, and the tire came down quickly.

I'm assuming the 36 PSI is enough to create seals at the rim strip, the screw was an airtight plug, and the tube didn't split where punctured. It's obviously pretty risky to ride with a punctured tube, and if I'd have known, I may have asked a buddy to come grab the bike and I with a truck. All that said, I'm going to assume my luck is changing and the next tube will last for the life of the tire.

I did learn on my search for tubes that Continental tubes are not imported to the US or Canada. Who knew. . . But just about any shop can order the Metzler's made to fit the rear. Interestingly, my local BMW dealer said they'd need to order one in, and Seattle had 1 in stock. I guess there's not a lot of demand.

If you commute and ride like a normal driver … tubeless will serve you well Digger. Very quick and easy to repair on the road. It’s hard (here in Dallas) to find any tire services that will patch a tire that has been punctured period …so plugging (tubless only claim to fame, easy to plug) has its advantage but a puncture is a puncture and if it damaged the cording in the tire it can fail a very high speeds … if you rarely punch it you’ll likely be good for the life of the tire but I would be thinking about that plug every time I want to go fast so they are of no value to me what so ever ……………… interesting about Continental tubes, I didn’t know that … did you discovery why …. Political or quality issues ? …………………………………………………. Blitz.

 

[BlitzSchnell]

I still run tubes in my standard '14. Not a big fan of tubed tires. I will probably switch to cast wheels when I find a set.

I saw a pretty good review about cast wheels Baloo… again (and I guess it always is) …about the application … not much flex in a cast wheel with out damage or failure. Seems the track is the place best suited for cast … all the bouncing and banging around involved in ADV riding seems to suit spoke wheel because they can flex. If you break a spoke or distort a rim it can be repaired but if you dent or chip your cast wheels that’s it .. The selection of tires, tubes, wheels, pressure, size, street, rally, slick etc…. is always going to be topic for debate … just make sure when you throw your leg over the saddle that you got what you want under you ……………….. complete confidence in your ride is critical to your concentration ..and focus is the first defense against the chaos that always follows a crash ..so get your ride dialed in with what you regard as the best combo for the challenge and the ride you have ahead of you …………. WhateverYouDo StayUpOn2 …………………………………………………… Blitz

 

[BlitzSchnell]

I would love to hear an answer to his question. Sad truth is haven't heard of cheap rim options, Mr Blitz 2005 gs rims will fit for your fatties.
Tubed rims from what I understand have a different bead lock to tubeless - this is why when I get around to it, will seal the spoke nipples, tape the rim but use slime in the tube. This is so I won't get stuck and can get home.
It is a dam shame all the K models have the shaft on the wrong side, otherwise there would be a ton of options.

You’ll have the best of both options … great idea. I’ve been running half a bottle of green slime in my tubes for years ,… 1/2 seems to be enough to fix a leak and not enough to put the wheel out of balance when I get flying. It will get you home and at a time like a flat in the middle of no where that’s a lot ! ……………….. Blitz

 

[BlitzSchnell]

If I was riding down the highway at 70mph I'd much rather get a flat on a tubeless tire than a tubed tire. Tubeless wheels are built with a safety lip to prevent to tire from coming off the rim. Tube type wheels do not have that safety lip. I've never seen a tube type rim WITH a safety lip, but maybe BMW is different than the rest of the industry. Tubes are better than tubeless for off road, since you can easily remove the tire from the rim and reseat the bead, as there is no safety lip to get in the way.

For street use, and high speed, I would expect tube type tires to run hotter, and the higher weight of a tube + tire versus just the tire must be detrimental to the ride quality and handling.



The fluid should help with the balance, not take away from it. For years I ran Ride-On TPS ( a competitor to Slime) in both my tubed and tubeless bikes. It helps seal a flat and it helps with the balance. I usually got more mileage out of a tire with TPS in it. I balanced my wheel by itself, then for the next 100,000km I never balanced the wheel with the tire installed. I simply put in Ride-On TPS. I rode the Continental Divide Trail from Canada to Mexico and of the 4 tube type bikes on the trip, three had Ride-On and one did not. We fixed flats on his bike three times. None of the other bikes got a flat. Near the end of the trip we were gearing up to leave the campground and just as we were about to pull out he spotted a nail in my tire. I pulled the nail out with pliers, fired the bike up and rode off.

A few weeks after getting home I was cleaning up the bikes and servicing them, new tubes, new tires, etc. I was curious to see what the liquid looked like in my tire after 5,000 miles so I cut the tube open. I was surprised to find a two inch long cactus needle in the tube and a small finishing nail.

Sorry Gap but I go down the service road at 70+ ……. You said: “Tubeless wheels are built with a safety lip to prevent to tire from coming off the rim.” Gap, this is sort of correct … the lip is there in order to create a surface and a seal and allow the tire to hold air against the rim... that’s the safe part. Does it make it more difficult to get on and off the rim ? Yes, in some cases with out the proper equipment almost impossible to change by hand with typical gear like tire spoons. The issue that concerns me with tubeless occurs when the leak from a simple puncture reaches a level so low that the pressure in the tire isn’t enough to hold the very seal you are referring to. When that happens at high speed .. instantly .. all remaining pressure left in the tire is dumped at once and there is rim to concrete …and if it’s the front tire you better hold on … when a tube is punctured no matter how low the pressure gets it never just LETS GO …. It can only escape thru the original hole in the tube EVEN when it gets so low that the tire bead breaks …. The seal the bead makes on a tubed wheel makes no difference in maintaining the tire pressure but makes ALL the difference on a tubeless rim. I think by far the majority of riders here haven’t had many high speed failures, at 100+ is MUCH different than 40 or so. Bringing a motorcycle to a complete stop with a front tire failure from 100+ with a tube leak is tricky but most riders can pull that off … but the same senecio with a tubeless ..once the pressure drops and the rim breaks it’s seal and the concrete starts to cut through the side of the tire … almost no control trying to steer the bike … I’ve had it happen … ME, I’d rather have two pounds of pressure slowly leaking out of my tubed tire .. than NO pressure AT ALL and rolling along on the rim at 60 or so fighting not to go down or hit the brakes and crash for sure .. TubesDude
The only way to fly on a bike …. It’s not a convenience issue or ease of repair .. just my personal experiences that point me …… good luck with yours ! …. ……………………………………….. Blitz

 

[BlitzSchnell]

I don't understand that reference. Do service roads have a lower chance of puncturing your tire than a 'highway'? I've ridden dirt at 90mph, and pavement at 10mph. A puncture can happen anywhere at any speed.

I guess we will have to agree to disagree. I was basing my opinion on the knowledge gained from 20 years in the motorcycle industry, years of training, about a hundred industry trade shows and training from more than one motorcycle tire manufacturer. I know that when I am out on the trail and get a flat on a tube tire and the tire is stuck to the rim all I have to do is roll the bike a little and the tire will break free, assuming I was able to stop before it already came off causing me to crash. On a tubeless rim that doesn't happen. I've ridden 30 miles on a tire with no air and a 2 inch hole in it. It never let go. The safety lip is to help in sealing the bead against the rim while inflating, and to keep the tire in place during air loss. I've had multiple flats on tubed wheels where the tire came clean off the rim while I was still moving. That's when I started using the tire sealant I mentioned above.

As for the air coming out slower with a tube? My tubes aren't loaded with artificial intelligence. When they get punctured by a 1/4" screw the air comes out at the same speed as it it does through the same 1/4" hole in the tire. The air can only escape out through the puncture hole, but once a tube is punctured, air can escape through the puncture AND through all 36 spoke holes that aren't sealed. The only difference at that point is the safety lip, which holds the bead of the tire far better than none at all. An empty tube is doing nothing to hold the tire on the rim. In retrospect though, I would be curious to see the inside rim profile on an R9T that runs tubes. Given the tire sizes we run, and that there are no tube type tires in that size, BMW may have put the safety lip on its tube wheels to accommodate the bead profile of the tubeless tire being used. Take a picture of the rim next time you change tires, I'd be curious to see if they did. The bead design on a tubeless tire isn't the same as a tubed tire, and the rim profile must match the bead.

The real disadvantage for tubes in the R9T is that it still uses tubeless tires. When you run a tube in a tubeless tire the industry guideline is to treat the setup as one load rating and one speed rating less than the tubeless tire says it can handle due to the added heat. When buying tubes, you also need to make sure to get tubes that are rated for Radial tires. Most tubes are not, which is why it is hard to find the right tubes for these bikes. Back when I had my shop Bridgestone and Metzeler were the only companies making a radial approved tire for 150/70 and 170/60 tires.

Wow … I just learned a bunch … thank you, Your logic and the way you put it together makes me rethink … but my stubborn old-ness and old school indoctrination … and frankly my 50+ UpOn2 just make me uncomfortable on tubless. You can laugh but it’s kind of reminds me of putting on my pants with out my underwear …it can be done ...but it can get horribly uncomfortable and go terribly wrong in a hurry. May be it’s some generational thing but it seems to me if tubeless hung the moon .. then that option would be the only option available because no one would want to be running tubes anyway …. I stood in a tire shop a while back mid-year 22 waiting for almost 4 hours to get some tires mounted I had to have, I sure saw a mess of tubes go across that counter for all kinds of bikes. Somebody seems to like tubes !
I’m hoping it takes me a while to get you a picture of my rim profile … only because it’s going to take a flat to make me break it down. I’m hoping someone out there is running 2015 Classic spoke and has one available with the tire off …..
The tip about Radial tubes … that’s a jewel ! I did not know they were rated that way at all. Thanks.
you said: “Back when I had my shop Bridgestone and Metzeler were the only companies making a radial approved tire for 150/70 and 170/60 tires.”
Did you mean radial approved tube instead of tire ? I’m confused. ………. ( YES confused … about all kinds of things … that’s why I’m here ) ……….
Thanks for taking the time Gap ….. I appreciate your insights ………………….. Blitz

 

[BlitzSchnell]

The tube doesn't have to be special.

There are generally 3 types of motorcycle tyres
Tube type tyres
Tubless only tyres
Tubless that can be used with a tube

The inside of the tyre has to be compatible with a tube or it can generate heat and damage the tube.

Why would you want to use a tube in a tubeless tire ? How is the inside of the tubeless tire made commpatable to a tube, and where does the heat come from, …friction ? ….and last: if the tube in a tubeless tire does get hot ..how is it ..that it makes a difference ..if it’s in a tubeless tire in the first place … where’s the advantage ? ..or disadvantage for that matter ? ………………………………..Blitz

 

[BlitzSchnell]

Your screen shot refers to pushbikes, https://www.cyclingweekly.com/ hence my previous comment.

My experience is different from yours, so I suggested that people should do their homework, that was all.

Here is one such article that Google found for me just now, and is much more in keeping with my personal experience. Tubed vs. tubeless tires: All you need to know - RevZilla

My screen shot is directly from the Adventure Motorcycling Handbook … I don’t know where you got push bike … the only time I’ll push a bike is when it’s out of gas … and then not very far …. More smoke I think, maybe your homework could use some touch up too ……………. Blitz

Reference post #30 …. What’s you take on answering my query ?

 

[BlitzSchnell]

On a bike like yours you don't have a choice. The wheels require tubes, but the tires are tubeless. Nobody makes a 170/60-17 in a tube type, except maybe a Harley branded Dunlop.



The inside of a tube and tubeless tire are different. There is an air proof skin or seal on the inside of a tubeless tire so that air pressure does not seep through the rubber. If you mount a tube type tire on a tubeless rim the pressure will drop significantly over the next few days. I've also seen a few tubeless tires that have what looks like a small foil patch inside the tire, which is actually an inventory control item. You have to remove these if you are running a tube or else it will wear the tube at that location. Tubes get hot in any tire, tube or tubeless style. There is no difference. A tube type tire is rated for speed and load based on the knowledge that it will have the required tube in it. A Tubeless tire does not take into consideration the heat generated from the tube as it isn't required, but when you put one in the tubeless tire to conform to the requirements of the wheel, then the heat it (and all tubes) generates needs to be taken into account, and that is why the general practice is to lower the speed and load rating of that tire under that circumstance.

Tire manufacturers have all sorts of rules we have all heard before.. never mix brands, never mix radial and non-radial, use the right tube, etc.. Despite these rules, they sometimes get broken by the moto OEM's, but in those cases they have tested that oddball and found that it performed to the required standard. A good example is the F800 which for years had a 90/90-21 on the front and 150/70-17 on the rear, and the bikes came from the factory with a bias front and radial rear. Not every manufacturer makes a radial 90/90-21, or a bias 170/60-17. They are getting a little more available now, but for years there was no choice but to mix bias and radial on that bike. There were issues with people buying replacements for their bikes and confusing tube type with tubeless, and seeing two tires of the same brand and model with two different price, and like all people they chose the cheaper one. As a result people would mount this cheaper tube type 90/90-21 on their tubeless wheel and wonder why it wouldn't hold air.

Mixing brands, and even models within a brand should be avoided unless you understand the differences and can plan accordingly. I've got Pirelli's on my R1250GSA right now. I can get the rear tire over till it is at the edge completely and will run out of tire long before the front ever gets to the edge. I know if I put an Avon Storm 3D on the front and keep the Pirelli on the rear then the front will run out of tread first which is more dangerous. different tires have different profiles. As long as you are aware and ride accordingly then go for it, but since the US is so well known for being the land of litigation, the lawyers have to have those disclaimers to not mix brands.

HolySh*t Gap … it’s complete hell when I repeatedly recognize how much I didn’t know I didn’t know. That was awesome … your time and expertise is appreciated Thank You. I’m really getting schooled on three or four threads the past couple of day …. So much to know, I need to make notes …. Blitz

 

[BlitzSchnell]

I just saw a video from Continental saying you cannot run a tube in a tubeless rim at all. Note I said rim. Apparently it's ok to run a tube in a tube-type rim with a tubeless tire, according to some sources, but never in a tubeless rim.

Thanks for the vid Gene … Good to know for all who didn’t ….. I got that one as a youngster ….. but that was so long ago they still used hot patches on the inside of bias ply nylon belted tires …. I can remember changing many more tires in the first half of my life than I have changed in the second half ….. much better rubber on the ground now than then …. Better chemistry, better and cheaper manufacturing processes too. ………………….. Blitz

 

[BlitzSchnell]

Yes seems like a good idea @Norbi I've stickied this thread.

OK Dave, what’s a “stickey” ?

…and what’s it got to do with sewing … ie. Thread HaHa …… 🤷🏼‍♂️

 

[BlitzSchnell]

Pictures of the rims can be seen in tubeless conversion threads, Outex etc.
The NineT spoke rims are tubeless rims with a hump...

Soooooo….. what I’ve gathered is …
If you’re running standard Classic spoke wheels .. they have a tube in them… and are designed to use a tube so a tube is a good thing even though you will be riding on a tubeless tire. If you’re running those weird ADV rims with outside spokes on the wheels ..(sorry fellas, they just look wrong).. then you have a tubeless wheel with no tube inside and it’s good you don’t have a tube because your not supposed to run a tube in a tubeless tire when it has a tubeless rim. My question is: What if you did run a tube in a tubeless tire on an tubeless rim and the tubeless tire was sealing properly to the “special rim seal” on the special tubeless rim …but then the tube inside the tubeless tire with the tubeless rim went flat .. what difference would it make ? So then.. should I carry a patch kit ..a plug kit …a large bottle of Slime ..or a buss pass ? Anybody know Ubers phone number ? Maybe I should just get Magnesium wheels …………..Blitz

 

[BlitzSchnell]

I’m just realizing how many variations in tubless rim there are … I actually like the look of some but I’ve never seen them up close …
I like the spoke design that runs to the center of the rim but dislike the spokes that go out to the edge of the rim … just looks wrong.

This looks good !

This looks wrong … just wrong !
I guess since we’re already running tubless tires anyway… I may as well look into getting all the benefits of being able to plug a flat ……. 🤷🏼‍♂️ Right ?
I could see Blitz with some new tubeless high-heels but if I go that far I’ll probably re-spoke some 16” rims and go with oversized fatty Bobber style tires… maybe ………………………… maybe not ……. If they are as expensive as they are pretty I’m in trouble, and you know they are $$$$ …………………………… Blitz
……………………………

 

[BlitzSchnell]

You’ve got a point Gap, and at this point I’m in love with the way she’s handling so any changes in anything but appearances at this time are just not going to happen. Sure is fun to dream about it …… Ridiculous, $7K+ for rims .. that’s half as much as I paid for the entire bike ……. If you ever saw those on my motorcycle it would only be because I stole them …. I’d never pay that unless it was going on a bike already worth $75K .. and you can guess how likely that will be. When does a machine go from beautiful but not over dressed …to just bling BS. It’s a thin line in my world … and 7K dollar rims on a 15K dollar bike definitely cross’es that line …………………. Now build me a custom turbo jet bike like Jay Leon’s and you can put some 10K dollar rims on it no problem … but you won’t see them as I go by you at 200 ……….. HaHa ! …………………………………… Blitz

 

[BlitzSchnell]

I was talking about your google search screenshot...

..never mind, it seems you have made up your mind that my information is not useful, so I'll bow out.

No no no, your information is always appreciated by me and many others … stop trying to convince me and just put it out there … there are many who agree with you and I’m starting to see you points as I read more and more research … never butt out because I’m so stubborn please … I’m here to learn and share … sometimes I won’t agree but what the hell does that matter …. Hang in there @sizzlingbadger … 🫡 ………………. Blitz