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I tried charging my R9T battery using a cheap battery tender with a adaptor plug into the aux socket, it wouldn't work, I tried turn on the ignition and off, it worked for 5 min then off, then I found this charger on the website TecMate OptiMate 4 Dual Program Battery Charger for BMW CANbus - RevZilla.
It seems that the charger must be compatible with the can bus system, is this the right charger? Do I have to buy one from the dealer? Any one has a good suggestion, thanks
 

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Many people, including myself, avoid this issue and purchase the relatively inexpensive Deltran Battery Tender charger. Deltran includes the necessary direct to battery 'pigtail' to plug in the charger with the standard SAE plug.

And, while the BMW manual states disconnecting the battery terminals, that is pure phooey as I, among others, of course have used these chargers on all BMW's with no concern for many years, and more likely the prohibition based upon the notion that there are some pretty 'dirty' chargers out there.

I currently have three Deltran Batter Tender chargers, charging three BMW cycles with CAN-bus technology with these chargers. I hedge my bets a bit by putting them on an inexpensive light timer so that they charge for only one hour per day.

Good luck!
 

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Pigtail to direct to battery with an inline fuse fitted in the positive line ;)
I've used a optimate 2/3 for 5 yrs without probs ;)
You really need a BMW trickle charger for aux socket as it runs via the canbus ,but the very latest optimate are now canbus circuit friendly so can be plug n play without a pigtail needed ;)
 

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I happened to ask my BMW dealer about battery chargers today and he wanted to sell me the Optimate 4 with CANbus over the BMW charger.
 

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What is it that makes a CanBus charger special? Limitation of current? Special Voltage?

I could see how a high amperage charger would be really tough on some wires and circuits if they were not heavy enough and that seems to be a problem because you can't have more than a 5 amp draw on the accessory plug.
 

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Just install a 15 amp Powerlet brand port where the factory port is...wire it directly to the battery. Then, like myself, you can use a Battery tender, Gerbings, etc.
 

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I've got a CTEK MXS4CA charger and was told by my bmw dealer that it would be ok to use this hard wired to the battery and not go through the socket on the side of the bike as long as i dont turn the key on. Anyone got step by step on how to hook up a pigtail connection to these bikes. I've found the obvious red positive post under the seat but was wondering where is an easy and suitable spot for the negative if it's suppost to be hard wired onto the battery. I can't see the battery as yet and that could be another thing if someone has a method to get to it. Wasn't too keen to rip apart a new bike without knowing what i'm doing first.

Any help is good help. Thanks.
 

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I use a CTEK 0.8, positive wired to the positive post terminal and the negative under the screw holding the piece that holds the positive terminals. (Does that even make sense to anyone other than me?). Compared resistance at that point and at the negative post on the right throttle body (jump start point) and it measured fine, It's not my preferred arrangement and I will connect directly to the battery once I figure out how to take the tank off...
 

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Hey Jugg, you won't need a step by step as you are already half way there.
Attach your (+) to either one of the red positive posts that you have found; they are connected so doesn't matter which one.
The motor and frame are both grounded to the negative side of the battery, so any point direct to motor/frame is ok; (beware of plastic guards and spacers though).
I have my (-) under one of the screws just towards the rear of the ECU box. The lead follows the upper frame tube and it all tucks away neatly. The screws are either side about where the back of the rider's seat is.

I have the SAE connector poking out on the RHS to the side of the plastic airbox. And when I'm not using it, I tuck it into the slot down the side of the same plastic airbox; don't know why the gap is there, but is handy for this.

Hope this is all clear. ;)
 

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Thanks for the advice guys. I hooked it up as you suggested and left the charging plug sitting behind the air box in the little gap that's there. Quite handy indeed. I've not used the charger yet but multimeter testing suggests it should be all hooked up correctly. I ended up hooking the positive to the positive jump post and the negative through the right hand bolt that holds the bracket where the 2 positive terminals are. This offered 0.00ohms resistance to the negative jump point on the engine. I'll probably hook the charger up this weekend to give it a run and fingers crossed nothing blows up...lol.
 

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How long before I must tend battery?

Have a vacation coming up that will be 20 days...is battery okay for that long without battery tender?
 

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Here's some pretty good advice. Yuasa Batteries -

Jussi is right about the alarm, K1600 manual has something about how long you can park with an alarm. It's not very long. If your battery goes flat, you shorten its life. I'm not looking forward to replacing mine. Looks like the tank and airbox come off first.
 
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