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Hi guys,
Not sure if it’s me and how I use my S..t hooks, but, when I’ve used the factory DIN socket, it very easily trips out. Don’t know why, but since wiring in the lead for the battery tender and the extra cigar/ USB socket direct to the battery, things work better for me.
I know nothing, so take this info for what it cost you. It works for me.
Thanking you,Ken.
PS. No big deal if it does trip out, as it should reset itself after not long.
That’s interesting, Ken - I wonder why? To be honest, if I was just going to hook up to the battery terminals I’d use the charger I already have.


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learningtofly,
I didn’t make myself clear, should have said, when my Din socket trips out it’s when I’m using it to power the thingy to top my tyres up.
Probably draws too much power but sometimes it works okay and other times it trips instantly,
Never used it to charge the batt.
Ken.
 

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learningtofly,
I didn’t make myself clear, should have said, when my Din socket trips out it’s when I’m using it to power the thingy to top my tyres up.
Probably draws too much power but sometimes it works okay and other times it trips instantly,
Never used it to charge the batt.
Ken.
Ah, thanks Ken. Back to plan A, then!
 

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That’s interesting, Ken - I wonder why? To be honest, if I was just going to hook up to the battery terminals I’d use the charger I already have.


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learningtofly,
I didn’t make myself clear, should have said, when my Din socket trips out it’s when I’m using it to power the thingy to top my tyres up.
Probably draws too much power but sometimes it works okay and other times it trips instantly,
Never used it to charge the batt.
Ken.
I believe the OEM socket has a 5A trip current. Most tyre inflators will trip the circuit, though as has been said the trip will reset. From memory all you have to do is turn the ignition off and back on to reset it.

As long as you get a canbus compatible charger the bike will quite happily charge through the stock BMW accessory socket. An Optimate 4 canbus edition quite happily keeps my bike's battery content (though the battery now needs replacing after almost 5 years).
 

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I believe the OEM socket has a 5A trip current. Most tyre inflators will trip the circuit, though as has been said the trip will reset. From memory all you have to do is turn the ignition off and back on to reset it.

As long as you get a canbus compatible charger the bike will quite happily charge through the stock BMW accessory socket. An Optimate 4 canbus edition quite happily keeps my bike's battery content (though the battery now needs replacing after almost 5 years).
My thinking is that - if we’re going to be prevented from riding - hooking up an Optimate to the accessory socket will be far easier than piggy-backing a regular charger to the battery terminal and frame.
 

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My thinking is that - if we’re going to be prevented from riding - hooking up an Optimate to the accessory socket will be far easier than piggy-backing a regular charger to the battery terminal and frame.
When I took delivery of my R9T (London, Ontario in 2019) the Dealer retro-fitted the "pig-tail" to charge the battery, at no cost to me. Flex tied to the frame, it is out of the way.

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Any recommendations or suggestions as to which battery-charger to buy? I had a C-TEK unit (Swedish brand) once - very good and reliable - but I don't know if it, or many others, are necessarily compatible with CAN-BUS. My bike, like so many others, is likely to be laid-up for an indeterminate period of maybe some months, and with winter on its way I need to keep the battery up to spec. TIA.
 

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Most any motorcycle appropriate charger will work just fine if you hook it to the battery via one of the big positive leads under the seat (and grounded of course). You only need a canbus friendly charger if you choose to charge through the power outlet on the left side below the tank.

I have a lead coming off that positive under the seat that I use for both charging and a heated jacket liner.
 

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Thanks, gris. I'd therefore use the under-seat red +ve terminal, and the large peg-like bolt-head for -ve on the rhs, just behind and below the oil-filler cap? Screwdriver pointing to it in pic below.

I appreciate your reply.. guvvmint now talking about 'stay at home unless' restrictions until October, which makes it imperative to keep that batteery well-charged!

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Or - taking your point about the lhs power-outlet (which might be more convenient to use than the under-seat terminal, avoiding having to remove the seats every time, is this the plug to use? It's an OPTIMATe item to use with their CAN-BUS-friendly charger... ...TIA again...
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Here (State side) they now sell what’s referred to as a battery charger/maintainer. After reaching around about a 14vdc charge the unit auto switches to a trickle charger and can maintain that peak charge for months at a time. I’ve used both the factory pigtale on the left side (canbus) as well as direct to battery and both seem to work well. If interested I’ll take a pict of the unit and post. Blitz
 
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Here (State side) they now sell what’s referred to as a battery charger/maintainer. After reaching around about a 14vdc charge the unit auto switches to a trickle charger and can maintain that peak charge for months at a time. I’ve used both the factory pigtale on the left side (canbus) as well as direct to battery and both seem to work well. If interested I’ll take a pict of the unit and post. Blitz
Please do - tho' the OPTIMATE seems to be recommended, but it's always worth exploring alternatives. I'm already eyeing-up space in my garage where the bike can be kept out of the way, able to be plugged-in to a nearby handy wall-mounted 240v outlet, white sheet - freshly laundered and ironed of course - ready to be draped over it: and maybe later over me if I succumb! :rolleyes:
 
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Since my bike may be laid-up for a considerable time, and pushed away more or less inaccessibly into a corner of the garage, I've just ordered the OPTIMATE4 charger plus plug-in (to the outlet on the bike's lhs) leads. All-up $144.90. But I can also from previous experience recommend the C-TEK products.
 

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Please do - tho' the OPTIMATE seems to be recommended, but it's always worth exploring alternatives. I'm already eyeing-up space in my garage where the bike can be kept out of the way, able to be plugged-in to a nearby handy wall-mounted 240v outlet, white sheet - freshly laundered and ironed of course - ready to be draped over it: and maybe later over me if I succumb! :rolleyes:
Here ya go Lawrence, hope this helps. I’m sure you can order on line. Any problems with that and I’ll ship you one. ?
Here’s a pict showing the unit I’ve been successfully using, granted not very often because I ride all the time. At least I did before Covid. Now BlitzSchnell will likely be in dry dock for at least a month. That in it self should be a crime. Any way, the battery “Maintainer” is called
a ... “Schumacher” Solid-Charging-Pulsing-Charged/Maintainer Model: SP1297 and it will plug directly into the factory pig tail on the left side of the bike. It has one button to turn it on and that’s it. It will charge if needed and then pulse charge in order to maintain the full charge with out harming the battery. I’m totally satisfied and give it 5 stars. Blitz
130478

It also has a built in hook to hang the unit and its water proof. It never gets hot either.
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130480

130481
 

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Thanks, Blitz. After pondering many different brands (so much choice!) including C-TEK that I'd had before, I have just ordered the OPTIMATE 4 item, plus the CAN-BUS connector. $144.90 all-up. The availability of plug-in (to the bike's lhs power socket) and charge without having to remove seats and things to access under-seat terminals convinced me, as the bike may well be in quarantine for some time and tucked away inaccessib‍ly in a corner of the garage. I've got an out-of-the-way spot where the bike can be easily wheeled in and out on its three caster-wheels Anderson paddock stand, within easy reach of a nearby 240v wall-socket, so I can plug it in and leave it, hopefully for not too long.. However, I can recommend the C-TEK products, having had that brand before.
 
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Thanks, Blitz. After pondering many different brands (so much choice!) including C-TEK that I'd had before, I have just ordered the OPTIMATE 4 item, plus the CAN-BUS connector. $144.90 all-up. The availability of plug-in (to the bike's lhs power socket) and charge without having to remove seats and things to access under-seat terminals convinced me, as the bike may well be in quarantine for some time and tucked away inaccessib‍ly in a corner of the garage. I've got an out-of-the-way spot where the bike can be easily wheeled in and out on its three caster-wheels Anderson paddock stand, within easy reach of a nearby 240v wall-socket, so I can plug it in and leave it, hopefully for not too long.. However, I can recommend the C-TEK products, having had that brand before.
Hi, that’s looks expensive?
Costs this in UK.
KEN. 9348A497-E5CA-4679-863A-3D3A9D35910D.png 36ED599A-5DA8-46CD-911C-DC94103FC0A4.png 8EE3D757-DFBF-49DB-9832-2BB5DC4B3920.png
 

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Received the OPTIMATE4 kit today, and have already plugged it in to both bike and the nearby 240v wall-socket. Using the compatible power-outlet plug (ordered as a separate item) means no fiddling around having to change anything - the charger then automatically reverts to CAN-BUS mode. The bike's on-board voltmeter showed 12.4v, stationary, and after about twenty minutes of charging only the green light now shows, indicating the battery already held a good charge. All that remains to do now is to screw-down the charger to the workbench - the bike is only a metre away and there's plenty of lead - et violin, job done. With an as-yet unknown period of enforced stay-at-home restrictions, which will likely last for months, this could be a very useful piece of kit - plug-in, leave, forget.

130641
130642
130643
 
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Received the OPTIMATE4 kit today, and have already plugged it in to both bike and the nearby 240v wall-socket. Using the compatible power-outlet plug (ordered as a separate item) means no fiddling around having to change anything - the charger then automatically reverts to CAN-BUS mode. The bike's on-board voltmeter showed 12.4v, stationary, and after about twenty minutes of charging only the green light now shows, indicating the battery already held a good charge. All that remains to do now is to screw-down the charger to the workbench - the bike is only a metre away and there's plenty of lead - et violin, job done. With an as-yet unknown period of enforced stay-at-home restrictions, which will likely last for months, this could be a very useful piece of kit - plug-in, leave, forget.

View attachment 130641 View attachment 130642 View attachment 130643
That’s so cool Lawrence, no wonder you went with that brand. I like that it shows voltage on the clock face. Does it do that just when it’s being charged or can you check the battery any time, even while rolling too? Thanks for the dog and pony show. Didn’t know about the display, way cool.
 

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That’s so cool Lawrence, no wonder you went with that brand. I like that it shows voltage on the clock face. Does it do that just when it’s being charged or can you check the battery any time, even while rolling too? Thanks for the dog and pony show. Didn’t know about the display, way cool.

If I understand the question properly, Blitz - the on-bike display (first ever on any of my many earlier BMWs) is accessed on the rhs clock-face dial at any time via the 'info' toggle, whether stationary and ign-off, or rolling. Currently (charging) 12.7v. While rolling, value has shown at 14 point something volts (forget exactly what). A useful feature!
 
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I know it’s sad of me and I’m Embarrassed to admit it but I’m still learning all the ins and outs of my dash and instrument cluster. Unfortunately when I bought the machine the only paper I got was a pink slip. No owners manual no repair manual nothing so it’s taking me a while to learn what all the clocks do on my dash. I only discovered this forum a few months ago. All my other Moto’s had a tack and that was it. I never looked at it ..I could tell by listening when it was time to shift.
 
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