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Installing it was a pain (they honestly couldn`t have found a more awkward place to put it) but with a pair of helping hands holding the tank it went as smooth as it could.
Did you have to unclip the fuel lines and breather hoses? Was it enough to just lift one end of the tank? The Haynes manual says you need to completely remove the fuel tank (!). I think this might not be necessary?

I'm thinking of whether I should DIY change my battery or get a professional to do it.


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When I replaced my battery, I managed to do it without unclipping the fuel lines, but I don't believe raising the end would do it. I set up a stable platform at tank height right up against the left side of the bike and carefully placed the tank on that surface while doing the work.
 

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When I replaced my battery, I managed to do it without unclipping the fuel lines, but I don't believe raising the end would do it. I set up a stable platform at tank height right up against the left side of the bike and carefully placed the tank on that surface while doing the work.
You can lift the tank and replace the battery. When you "undo" enough stuff to lift the tank enough, you're real close to being able to remove it. It takes little more and isn't difficult.

At least to me it's worth removing the tank instead of lifting it and fighting with everything. Removing the tank is more time consuming than difficult. The hoses and wiring are easy to remove and replace and are different enough to not have you wondering if you're putting them back on the right way.

Just my 2 cents worth...
 

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Just remember not to refill and top-up the tank the day before you decide to lift the tank.
Don't ask me how I know . . . :laugh2:
 

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Just remember not to refill and top-up the tank the day before you decide to lift the tank.
Don't ask me how I know . . . :laugh2:
I just siphoned the gas out of mine. It was completely full as it was "put up" for the winter but I got a few un-seasonably warm days to work on the bike. It helped to have the filler removed as I was also replacing it with a Slingshot Racing Quick Release 1/4 turn cap assy. Be a little careful inserting the siphon hose as the fuel level sensor is in the left side of the tank and vulnerable. With the filler removed you can see it.
 

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Did you have to unclip the fuel lines and breather hoses? Was it enough to just lift one end of the tank? The Haynes manual says you need to completely remove the fuel tank (!). I think this might not be necessary?

I'm thinking of whether I should DIY change my battery or get a professional to do it.


Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk
Hi Danny,
I replaced it without disconnecting the fuel lines.
Like I said, it`s easier if you have a pair of helping hands, but you can do it by yourself as well if you prepare everything.
I found that lifting the front side of the tank and pulling it on the left side of the bike without disconnecting the fuel lines gave me enough space to work in there, but is going to be a lot easier if you have someone that can hold the tank for 5 minutes.
And yes....make sure the tank it`s almost empty otherwise otherwise it will be real heavy.
 
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Just replaced my battery- had been gone overseas for 18 months- son-in-law failed miserably in his ONE job, to start and ride the bike one hour a week...:)
Took about an hour of labor to pull the tank, cut zip ties, have my son hold said tank, remove and replace battery, and replace tank enough to let son go play video games. Not a huge undertaking....daunting, I thought about it a lot, but when executed, not that big a deal. Especially with a little cheap labor and help from this forum. By the way, I did go lithium, and that thing cranked like a champ.
 

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Hi All,


My R9T is coming up to its 4th year and I am noting a more sluggish start on the button so I think I'm going to have to pull the pin and change batteries.



I have two questions...


The two options listed commonly are the Yuasa YTX14-BS and GYZ16H.

I note the latter is listed as a battery upgrade in Yuasa's website and to that end is 0.6kg heavier and twice the price of the YTX14-BS over here in the U.K.

So is it worth the extra weight and money for the Capacity Ah ?



The 2nd question is that after removing the tank and going through all the associated faff, would you change the air filter at the same time ?


Thanks in anticipation.
 

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Hi All,


My R9T is coming up to its 4th year and I am noting a more sluggish start on the button so I think I'm going to have to pull the pin and change batteries.



I have two questions...


The two options listed commonly are the Yuasa YTX14-BS and GYZ16H.

I note the latter is listed as a battery upgrade in Yuasa's website and to that end is 0.6kg heavier and twice the price of the YTX14-BS over here in the U.K.

So is it worth the extra weight and money for the Capacity Ah ?



The 2nd question is that after removing the tank and going through all the associated faff, would you change the air filter at the same time ?


Thanks in anticipation.
I'm in the same boat and will be replacing it preventively. Thanks for the part number. I live in colder weather so I will be passing up in the lithium upgrade.
 

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I've pulled the pin on the GYZ16H thinking that it's such a PITA to do the job, you might as well do it with the most powerful battery you can install.
I managed to get the price differential down to +30% so that works. Ok, I'm adding a kg to the bike but it's kind of central, isn't rotational mass (well hopefully:) and I'll just have to train harder to lose weight.



Would have gone Lithium but I want to be able to charge through the Canbus and that would mean buying another charger (my Optimate Lithium isn't suitable apparently) / battery and don't want the additional outlay.


I'm also going to fit a K&N filter whilst the tanks off for the same reason as the above.
 

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Here are some specs on the GYZ16H, YTX14H-BS, YTX14-BS, OEM Batteries.
https://www.yuasabatteries.com/batteries/search-results/?vehicle_type=motorcycle&vehicle_make=bmw&vehicle_year=2014&vehicle_model=r-nine-t

Battery Type: GYZ16H
Battery Family: GYZ High Performance, Maintenance Free
Voltage: 12
Capacity: 16 Ah
Dimensions: 6 in. x 3 7⁄16 in. x 5 3⁄4 in.
Weight: 12.4 lbs.
Metric Dimensions: 150mm x 87mm x 145mm
Acid Volume: N/A
Amps: 1.6
C.C.A: 240


Battery Type: YTX14H-BS
Battery Family: Fresh Pack, Maintenance Free
Voltage: 12
Capacity: 12 Ah
Dimensions: 6 in. x 3 7⁄16 in. x 5 3⁄4 in.
Weight: 10.6 lbs.
Metric Dimensions: 150mm x 87mm x 145mm
Acid Volume: 0.69 L
Amps: 1.2
C.C.A: 240


Battery Type: YTX14-BS
Battery Family: Fresh Pack, Maintenance Free
Voltage: 12
Capacity: 12 Ah
Dimensions: 6 in. x 3 7⁄16 in. x 5 3⁄4 in.
Weight: 10.1 lbs.
Metric Dimensions: 150mm x 87mm x 145mm
Acid Volume: 0.69 L
Amps: 1.4
C.C.A: 200

OEM Battery
Part Number: 61 21 8 556 314
Voltage: 12
Capacity: 12 Ah
Amps: ?
C.C.A: 200
 

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Higher CCA numbers will spin the engine faster on the starter, higher Ah numbers will spin it longer.

A bit simplified but basically how it works.
 

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Successfully upgraded battery today and while I was at it I changed the air filter for a K&N item. Judging by the one that came out, it probably wasn’t working at optimum. Engine spins over much easier now. I took the lazy way out and used a Black&Decker Workmate with bubbly wrap/clothes to prop the tank to the left of the bike (as suggested by a contributor earlier) rather than remove it completely. Pretty straight-forward job and I’d definitely change the filter at the same time if I was contemplating changing the battery.
My bike has just under 8,000miles on but that filter was awful. I think the straw came from a grass tracking exercise avoiding a car that pulled out without warning !!
 

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I replaced my OEM 3 year old battery with a Yuasa YTX14H-BS (exact same size as stock battery but with 240CCA) and did it without removing the tank like others have suggested. Just placed a folding table to the left, covered with a soft blanket and laid it to the side like @Zanderk shows in his photo. A difficult part of the process was lifting the ~10lb battery out of that tight spot. I used a nylon webbing strap (that I use to secure my duffel to the bike) to loop around the bottom of the battery so I could easily pull the whole thing out like a handle. Replaced the air filter as well, takes about an extra 2 minutes to do. Also upgraded my horn to a Fiamm while I was at it, as it requires the tank removed to get at the tight spot (thanks also to @Zanderk for generously helping to source the horn from the UK, totally plug and play). Total time for 3 jobs was a little over an hour. Not hard at all if you take your time and use soft towels (don't want to scratch that tank).

Thanks to all the people that contributed advice on this thread!
 
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