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Discussion Starter #1
My initial thought is always battery but I've never had a battery just fail to 0 and not give me any dash display or signs of life such as clicking. I tried a jumper box and hooked to positive and the bar that links to frame nearby. Also, I don't keep my trick only it regularly but did have my Optimate 4 liked up for about 24 hours 2 days ago. I don't think its the battery but I wish I had a tester.

My thoughts are switches, What can fail and give my no juice to my bike? Ignition, Kill switch, Kickstand switch? Im looking for any feedback on what it could be or anyone saying that there is a certain switch that is known to fail so I can maybe start there. Ill keep the trickle on the bike today and see if that brings any lights on at least

last time I rode the bike was about 10 days ago and have never had any issues with electronics. Damn battery is so buried. I may have to pull it and have a look.

Thanks for the help!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
also this is a BMW rninet classic 2016 with 2500 miles. I bought it used 4 months ago and don't know if battery is original. its in pretty pristine condition
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@eagerpooch, My guess is a hashed battery but I'd check your battery voltage at the lugs under the seat before pulling the tank. I have read about wiring harness issues with the earlier bikes, perhaps check into that. Please update the thread to let us know what you find.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
OK, I went and bot a volt meter from my local harbor freight and I figured some things out. Battery was totally low below 5v. I also figured out that the connection I was using that is the bar next near the positive is a terrible ground and why my jumper box wasn't even giving it any juice. They really didn't give a good spot to jump the bike with. I had to use a screw head that was in the frame. I don't have a ton of options given the cables are only like 10inches a part with the jumper.
I just took it for a 45 min ride and still won't start off the battery although it cycles through the motions at least now just doesn't turn (10.9v).

So turns out it was a basic fix and nothing to big of a deal. Now I just have to figure out what battery to put in the thing. Seems like my choices will be limited since the battery is a certain size and also viewable from the side/rear.

Ill do a search but if u guys have any recommendations let me know.
 

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Now I just have to figure out what battery to put in the thing. Seems like my choices will be limited since the battery is a certain size and also viewable from the side/rear.
I fitted the high capacity Yuasa one in mine earlier this year. Straight fit and works a treat. Its black in colour too so is a lot more invisible than the original.

 

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Discussion Starter #10
im using a small jumper box. cables are small and not a lot of room. I charged the bike all night and it reads 12.6v. bike wont even attempt to turn over. gives me a battery error. new one ordered just got the high performance yuasa like recommended
Yuasa YTX14H-BS High Performance AGM Battery
Item: P262115 SKU: 938665
 

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Good choice of replacement battery. I had a 6 month old MotoBatt lithium battery fail with no warning. Just completely died mid-ride after I stopped at road works ; no clicking and no lights at all on the dash - needed to be taken to the dealer by a recovery service. The Yuasa turns the motor over faster than either the original (was 3 years old) or the MotoBatt.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
changing the battery is no small task. def order an air filter while ur at it anyone who is doing this. and also put a piggyback so u can trickle off the charger. that battery fits like a glove though.
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I'm new to this forum. I see you have a usb cord plugged in below the tank. I have the same thing and if I don't unplug it after using it on a ride, my batter dies. I don't know why, but it stays live (and discharges the battery) even after the ignition is turned off.
 
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