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Probably cost....
 

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Hi guys, I’m new to the forum and looking for help on the dreaded grub screw to fit some Puig levers. Before carefully reading this thread (doh!) I managed to totally destroy the push rod, and associated parts for the clutch lever in attempting to remove them (as noted elsewhere, these parts are required for the Puig levers). I’m now moving on to the brake lever and keen not to repeat my mistake! The thing is, I’ve now carefully read this excellent thread, noted Baldy Dave’s excellent diagrams, used my wife’s nail polish remover, and the grub screw still doesn’t want to shift. I’m really nervous now of applying too much force given my first **** up..... Thoughts?
 

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Hey guys,.. I've read this and a couple other threads multiple times.. Am I missing something or is the updated verion (2016/17) clutch lever not adjustable?
The newer bikes have different master cylinders and levers and no adjusters like the "original" 2014-16 R Nine T's had. I wouldn't say they were "updated", it's just crap "old style" stuff vs crap "new style" stuff. Both styles are bargain basement components.
 

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@LeoRX from your photos I agree with @JohnT, there doesn't appear to be any adjustment possible... :(
 

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that's a bit unfortunet... and my bad for purchase cheap chinese levers. All in all, the break lever was okay, but the clutch lever even at the highest setting doesn't feel quite right.
I didn't notice how good the OE lever feels compare to the cheap chinese lever is.. it doesn't look as nice, but the function and feel sure outweights the appearance for me.
 

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Question for you guys, on the 2017+ models both the clutch and brake levers are adjustable. If you adjust the reach of the lever by turning the dial, do you need to adjust the freeplay or is it only the level throw that is changing?
 

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. . . or is it only the level throw that is changing?
This.
In essence the adjustment merely sets the place at which you grab the lever at rest. ie. farther out, or closer in, to the handgrip.
 

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Hey all, I'm going to change the title of this thread to reflect that the ability to adjust the free-play in the hydraulic system seems limited to pre 2017 models. If anyone knows different please say.
 

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Ok so is this the pulse or burb?
The idea is to adjust the lever till you don't see any burb, then screw backward just enough to see the burb + half a turn backward (for safety so it won't lockup) ?

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Ok so is this the pulse or burb?
The idea is to adjust the lever till you don't see any burb, then screw backward just enough to see the burb + half a turn backward (for safety so it won't lockup) ?
Yep. That's the general idea. You're seeing the piston pumping fluid. It comes out the port (and disturbs the fluid in the reservoir) until the piston moves far enough to close the port and start the actual braking.

That open port relieves line pressure and if it's not open the pads will drag and heat the calipers and the brake fluid and build line pressure 'til your front brake locks up as some members have found. Get it wrong on the clutch side and the result is clutch slip. Soooo, be a bit careful. Take your wrenches with you on your test drive...
 

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Here is what I did:

I put the bike on Neutral, and in my garage, I sat on the bike and moved it back & forth and adjust the screw.

Then, once I think that I have the correct adjustment, I go for a quick ride with the allen key and fine tune it.
Then put high strength thread locker on the set screw to lock the rod.

I find the best setting is screwing the rod CW between 2 and 2-1/4 turn.
Always check that there is a burp!

The brakes are really better but they are still shitty in my opinion.

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Try new pads and see if they help, but you might end up needing to replace the master cylinder if you still are unhappy. @JohnT replaced with brembo and was impressed.


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@JohnT replaced with brembo and was impressed.
Very impressed. The Brembo master upgrade makes it very clear what a POS the OE master is. Pads also help but only in the sense that they provide more bite. On the front they aren't the HUGE improvement they make on the rear.

FWIW I wouldn't use a hi-strength thread locker on the grub screw. That can come back to bite you. I used purple Loctite 222 when I was adjusting the OE master.
 

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FWIW I wouldn't use a hi-strength thread locker on the grub screw. That can come back to bite you. I used purple Loctite 222 when I was adjusting the OE master.
Took ur advice, removed the set screw (it was super hard) cleaned it and put blue tread locker. Didn't had the purple.

I also adjusted the clutch side, I turned CCW 1 turn. I needed to add freeplay (opposite of the brake lever).

I can say that now it is more enjoyable for sure but the brake is still not good.
It's not about the stopping power but more about the feedback/linearity.

I guess for the moment I can live with that fix. But for sure there is an master cylinder upgrade next riding season.
 
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