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Anyone else think this is blatant plagiarism? Gussied up a bit but still plagiarism.

Plagiarism: "the practice of taking someone else's work or ideas and passing them off as one's own"
 

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you know @JohnT, I have 3 more DIY procedure to post but your comment just make me feel why bother putting all the effort and explication in one document so any fellow member from this community can enjoy this DIY detailed with pictures.

Where did I claim this was my own work?
Did I post it in a new thread?

All I did was took all the advice and info done in this thread and put them in one document.
If that bother you so much I am more than happy to stop writing DIY.
You have a gift at pissing people off.
I spent at least 2 days taking pictures and writing this procedure and all you can think off is this?
 

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Go see post #114...

You know you got me, you've uncovered my diabolic plan of steeling peoples work.
I revised the procedure and put all the members name of this thread as a contributor/author.
 

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Go see post #114...

You know you got me, you've uncovered my diabolic plan of steeling peoples work.
I revised the procedure and put all the members name of this thread as a contributor/author.
That is so lame. What's IN THE PRODUCT, the actual document, is YOUR NAME IN BIG BOLD LETTERS on every page. You even effectively signed and dated it. Not one bit of credit given. Want us to believe this won't now appear in other venues? This defines plagiarism.
 

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Listen, I don't need your judgment nor the way you are talking to me.
I am not your dog nor your pest.
As I stated in post #125, I revised the procedure and it is now in Rev 2.0 and I included all the contributors.
I don't and didn't had any intention of taking any credit.
I apologize for any members who felt this way.
All I did is I wrote the damn procedure having in mind helping other people.
Go work on your PR because you certainly don't have any diplomatic skills.


@BaldyDave
@Captain
@jigsaw

Decide what you want to do with this procedure delete or leave as is.
 

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Manyakus, there will always be someone criticising instead of perhaps offering clear and point suggestion on things to improve. Don't be put off by that! I for one am one of those that are thankful for your clear and concise documentation. I also have the Haynes manual, the official BMW Motorrad Repair and Service Data, as well as MarksMotorcycleParts manual. But I keep referencing your pdf's the most due to clearer instructions. Keep up the good work mate!
 

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If there are going to be more of these Manyakus How-To's, maybe having a Sticky thread with all of them together? Easier to find?

Hope I am not over stepping by asking, but...
@JonhT are there any modifications @Manyakus can make to the document so not to offend you or any others?
 

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@Manyakus, as some who has recently performed the brake lever freeplay reduction (which is a must-do IMO), this is a great document, clear and concise. Thanks for putting it all together with the photos and the all the advice/info shared by members in this thread, much easier than me re-reading this thread several times to make sure I knew what I was doing. Should definitely help others who want to do the procedure.
 

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Speaking for myself, I am comfortable with my name being acknowledged as an author (aka source) on the title page of the document. My personal opinion is I don't believe there is anything other than a willingness by @Manyakus to help out forum members by producing this DIY document. Yes there has been a bit of a heated discussion here, but no lines have been stepped over (close, mind you). So folk have said what they think, and I'll leave that for all to see. No further action needed here, I think....

Peace!
 
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I have a 2017 Scrambler. Maybe I missed it when scanning the previous 7 pages, but can you please tell me why this is only for pre-2017?
 

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I have a 2017 Scrambler. Maybe I missed it when scanning the previous 7 pages, but can you please tell me why this is only for pre-2017?
Different master cylinders with no adjustability.
 
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Just a heads up for everyone, the front brakes have locked up on my bike, you will feel like a loss of power and some brake pad heating odor.
I checked the set screw that locks the push rod and it was still tight, locked and not loose.
I removed the set screw and unscrewed the pushrod by 2 turns and the front brake un-locked.
I am guessing that the pushrod was able to slowly rotate until it blocked the bleeding port which means that the set screw was not really locking up the pushrod.
It happened after around 1000km from the lever adjustment.
I recommend that you also threat lock the push rod and not only the set screw.

125922
 

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I also recommend that you change the set screw to a CONE-POINT that will trully engage into the thread of the pushrod and locks it in place.
I believe the original set screw was a CONE-POINT but they are a one time use because after tightening them the cone point will flatten out.

125924
 

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Just a heads up for everyone, the front brakes have locked up on my bike, you will feel like a loss of power and some brake pad heating odor.
That's what happens when you take out too much play and block the bleed port. It's a known issue when you exercise poor judgement adjusting the freeplay. Maybe you should have your bike worked on by someone competent.
 

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At the risk of me getting on my soap box, can I stress people the fact that you are adjusting a braking system and you really have to be careful. Too slack adjustment can have the lever coming back to the bars and trapping your fingers, perhaps preventing the brakes from fully engaging - obviously dangerous (and probably painful in your fingers as well!). Too little slack and you can risk the brakes locking on which could be real nasty if it happens in the wrong place and time. Take the allen key with you when test riding any adjustment and keep things nice and steady for the first 20 miles... Gradually increase the braking force as you go but always drive with enough distance between you and any vehicles ahead that your rear brake will pull you up safely in an emergency

The clutch adjustment either results in clutch slip or drag..... not as serious as the braking issues but unwelcome nevertheless....

Sorry if I seem to be going on a bit.... But I don't want to hear any tales of bent 9Ts or their riders! ;)
Words of wisdom.
 

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That's what happens when you take out too much play and block the bleed port. It's a known issue when you exercise poor judgement adjusting the freeplay. Maybe you should have your bike worked on by someone competent.
I never blocked the bleed port Mr. Einstein...the guide pin was screwing slowly with engine vibration...the set screw wasn't holding the guide pin with enough force.

Leave your judgement/critique to other people. Ever since I posted the DIY you have something against me.

It is either you let it go...or Ill ask the moderators to delete the DIY from this forum and be done with it.

I have no time nor desire to deal with your negativity.

Reply as much as you want..from now on I will ignore you.
 

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Thanks to all the contributors to this thread. I have followed the instructions on my R1200R and the feel on the brakes is massively better. This was bugging me since I had the bike, happy days now!
 
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