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Great video and instructions in this thread! Hard to believe but just pulled the canister off of a 2016. Crazy that thing was still on there.
 

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I filled up this morning and the petrol jockey probably had DT's as his aim was slightly off.
Luckily nothing on the tank, just down the overflow holes.

Look underneath the bike and see the petrol on the floor.
Am I correct in saying that if there is a fuel overflow, it should go into the canister?
 

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Let me put it another way after watching the opening video..... has anyone here had an issue with “charcoal backwashing into the fuel filter making te bike run like shit”??????

.....mine runs fine with it. Seems like an issue looking for a problem but happy to hear otherwise......
 

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Can't get rid of engine warning light...

I took the canister off my week-old (2016) scrambler, I also disconnected the exhaust flap at the same time - it would have been rude not to.
Now I've got the yellow engine light on and don't know why.
For the exhaust flap, I only disconnected the two short bowden cables, nothing else. The servo motor is still plugged in and bolted to the frame so I can't see why that would be the problem - surely the ECU can't tell the difference?

For the canister, everything came off as per this thread, I tucked the relay up under the seat and capped the vacuum nipple thingy.
That just leaves a small block connector adrift under the left side of the tank. I don't know the name of the round lump it attached to but I've taken it off.

The bike runs perfectly. Any suggestions? I've searched this thread so I'm not just being lazy (honest!)
Will disconnecting the battery to clear the ECU memory help?
 

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Can't get rid of engine warning light...

I took the canister off my week-old (2016) scrambler, I also disconnected the exhaust flap at the same time - it would have been rude not to.
Now I've got the yellow engine light on and don't know why.
For the exhaust flap, I only disconnected the two short bowden cables, nothing else. The servo motor is still plugged in and bolted to the frame so I can't see why that would be the problem - surely the ECU can't tell the difference?

For the canister, everything came off as per this thread, I tucked the relay up under the seat and capped the vacuum nipple thingy.
That just leaves a small block connector adrift under the left side of the tank. I don't know the name of the round lump it attached to but I've taken it off.

The bike runs perfectly. Any suggestions? I've searched this thread so I'm not just being lazy (honest!)
Will disconnecting the battery to clear the ECU memory help?
I'm probably of limited help here as my bike is a 2014 classic and they didn't have the charcoal canister...

From what you've described you appear to have removed the canister correctly, however I guess there is always a slight chance that in tying up the relay it might have become partly disconnected from it's socket so I'd check that the relay connection is sound.

I've heard of a lot of folk on the forum simply disconnecting the exhaust valve bowden cables and the bike didn't light up a warning on the dash, however it would be relatively easy to reconnect the cables and see if the light disappears. How did you disconnect the cables, at the pulley wheel in the servo motor assembly or at the exhaust flap? I guess there could be a small possibility if you disconnected them at the pulley that they might have jammed the mechanism and if the servo motor is jammed because of this you might get a warning on the dash.

I'm not sure about the disconnected plug leading to a round socket. If the round socket was just above the left cylinder barrel it is the accessory socket and I doubt you'd get a warning lamp if you disconnected that. The only other round plug that I know of is the large multi-pin socket that lives under the plastic panel on the left of the tank. This is the ECU diagnostic port. You might well get an error if you disconnected that, but I doubt this is what you are referring to (I also don't believe you can simply unplug the diagnostic port anyway). I also think that the 2016+ bikes the diagnostic port changed to being roughly rectangular in shape and it was moved to under the rider seat. If you can supply photos that would really help! :)
 

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Thanks Dave. I disconnected the cables from the pulley wheel, I've checked and it still moves freely when it does the ignition on sweep.
The round thing I've identified as the fuel tank breather valve. I've reconnected the wires and blanked the hose inlet and outlet just with tape to stop water/dust ingress.
Next job is to put everything back on and then start again to see what triggers the light.
Unless....the light stays on until a code reader clears it, then I'm buggered!
 

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Fingers crossed for you, I expect this will have done the trick! (y)
 

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The valve you’ve reconnected will have triggered the warning light if you start the engine with it disconnected. With it connected start and stop your engine five times. This will clear the code. This worked for me. Some people leave the flapper servo connected and just remove the control cables, as you have. Perfectly ok but to my mind you’ve still got a lump that now serves no useful purpose. Replace it with a Servo Buddy for an even cleaner look.
 

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Thank you Scooter Paul and Dave, all sorted now, it was the fuel tank breather valve. With both hoses disconnected it is a small unobtrusive lump of plastic, well out of sight. Having the block connector attached will at least keep it clean and dry.
(y):D
 

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I've seen a few mentions of people removing the charcoal canister from their bikes. For anyone that has done this can I ask what the reason was for removing it? Any benefits?

Cheers
 

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Cleans up the bike, easier to adjust suspension with C spanner.
For me, it was just something to play with, without costing an arm and a leg ?
 

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I haven’t disconnected mine yet. Quick question. I assume the canister was installed by BMW to follow some emission regulation by the EPA. If so won’t the mechanic at the inspection station look for it next time you go for your yearly renewal ? Any one face that problem yet ? I don’t know what the other states require here in the USA but they frown on such modifications here in Texas and may well refuse to issue you a new inspection certificate with out which here in Texas you can’t renew your moto insurance. Seems like another solution is to not fill your tank right up to the rim. I carry a small spare fuel can that holds just enough (a couple of pints) to get me to a fuel station as an alternative to topping off when I fuel up. I checked my canister and it’s a dry as a bone. I’d love to hear what you have to say about all this.
 

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I may be wrong but I think the sole purpose for the charcoal canister is to collect any fuel overflow. It should have zero effect on the emissions if a gas sniffer is used up your exhaust.
Being frowned upon is of no consequence - so what as long as it passes?
You could always just clip it back on for a test and poke the pipes into the darkness somewhere ;)
 

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I may be wrong but I think the sole purpose for the charcoal canister is to collect any fuel overflow. It should have zero effect on the emissions if a gas sniffer is used up your exhaust.
Being frowned upon is of no consequence - so what as long as it passes?
You could always just clip it back on for a test and poke the pipes into the darkness somewhere ;)

You are correct at what it does, unfortunately the requirement is part of the Euro4 package that is more than just exhaust emissions, there's the fuel overflow containment, the tamper proof exhaust baffle and who knows what else in the ECU that is installed as part of their compliance.

Whether or not the shop issuing the renewal know or think to look for it? dunno, but it used to be that you could ditch the cat without a worry but these days it's the first thing everyone looks for when stopped... I've been stopped and booked for only having one mirror, he looked for the cat but had no clue to look for a canister or a flapper valve........
 

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I’m pretty sure your right Cropduster about the code. If you don’t top off to the extreme and even if you do .. if you feel like it probably overflowed into the canister then I’m sure if you figure out which hose is which you can just take the canister off it’s mount turn it upside down and empty it out, then there’s nothing in the canister to get sucked back into the tank. (as the video stated) no fuel, no charcoal. I’d love to have that space to mount some anti-thief electronics in there, but I think I’ll look elsewhere.. Thanks man. If you pull it off ..put it someplace ..don’t trash it. You could need it back on the bike sooner than you think, depending on where you live. The exhaust is another story. Take it from me the tamper proof exhaust isn’t tamper proof at all but in Texas it’s no matter, we have no decimal limits on tail pipes. In traffic the louder the pipes the better chance you have. If they don’t see you they will hear you !
 

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The canister is for EVAPORATIVE emissions, not spilled fuel. It collects fumes while your bike is parked in the sun. It then burns the fumes when the engine is next started rather than release them into the atmosphere, like every car sold in the USA since 1971. On cars, the charcoal canister might be 12 feet away from the gas tank. It's not there for spilled fuel.

Sending raw fuel into the canister destroys it. That's why BMW puts a plastic fill pipe inside the fuel tank and tells you not to fill past the bottom of it. If you insist on overfilling the tank, raw fuel does go to the canister, which it is not designed to handle. Then you get scary YouTube videos showing charcoal loose in the fuel system.

Interesting fact: a pre-1971 car with a "vented" fuel system parked in the sun on a hot day has higher hydrocarbon emissions with its engine SHUT OFF than a post 1996 OBD-II vehicle which is idling.

In states that are serious about emissions inspections, the inspector used to take a plunger device and put it over your fuel tank in place of the gas cap. If he couldn't draw a partial vacuum that lasted a few seconds, you had an open evaporations circuit and you failed. OBD-II cars made that test obsolete, since EVAP EMISSIONS is one of the "readiness codes" set and monitored by the diagnostics.

Take off your car's fuel cap and drive for a while and you get a "check engine" light because your evaporations circuit is open to the atmosphere. We don't have that yet with EURO4 on bikes, but it's just a matter of time. EURO5? 6?
 
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