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Very late to this party but just had a read thru, can I summarise to see if I've understood things.

After removing the canister you are left with a hose that needs to be extended downwards to meet the other half ?

You also have a hose that went in to the left hand throttle body ? This end needs capped, correct ?

You are also left with a relay, just pop back under seat, does this need blanked off ??


have I missed anything ?
 

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Can anyone specify the size and recommend an online source for connectors and plugs that fit our tubes dimensions?

Cheers thanks for everything everyone has contributed so far.
 

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Are there any kits or parts I should buy to make this removal clean on a 2107 R NineT Pure? Watched the video and it doesn’t look like it but I think I’ve talked a bmw shop into doing it for me, just want to make sure I supply them any parts they might need to make this clean.
 

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Can anyone specify the size and recommend an online source for connectors and plugs that fit our tubes dimensions?

Cheers thanks for everything everyone has contributed so far.
You really only need a 3/16" to 3/16 barbed connector, which can be had off Amazon or your nearest hardware store. I had ordered extra fuel line, however, I found that the existing line can be cut, spliced, and connected without using extra. You will also need a vacuum cap for the left cyclindar.
 

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Are there any kits or parts I should buy to make this removal clean on a 2107 R NineT Pure? Watched the video and it doesn’t look like it but I think I’ve talked a bmw shop into doing it for me, just want to make sure I supply them any parts they might need to make this clean.
Amazing that a shop is willing to do this for you in the USA. The fine for any business found to be complicit in emissions tampering is $37,500 and up PER VEHICLE. The fine for individuals is one-tenth of that, but seldom enforced. Harley had their teats hammered four years ago for installing Screamin’ Eagle tuning devices at the dealerships.


 

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Removed my canister: routed the overflow tube down with the other hoses behind the LH peg, plugged the LH jug outlet along with the feedback tube.

That said, I noticed a decently strong fuel smell in my garage (small garage, barely large enough for my Samurai). It makes sense that there would be a stronger odor since I've disconnected a charcoal filter that is supposed to suppress this phenomenon, however I'm wondering if this is common (I don't have other vehicles I park in my garage, so I cannot compare) with others, and want to double check it's not a big deal.
 

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Mine also has that strong smell, especially with higher temperatures.
Would have been better if it was still the old leaded petrol smell in the garage ?
 

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Removed my canister: routed the overflow tube down with the other hoses behind the LH peg, plugged the LH jug outlet along with the feedback tube.

That said, I noticed a decently strong fuel smell in my garage (small garage, barely large enough for my Samurai). It makes sense that there would be a stronger odor since I've disconnected a charcoal filter that is supposed to suppress this phenomenon, however I'm wondering if this is common (I don't have other vehicles I park in my garage, so I cannot compare) with others, and want to double check it's not a big deal.
It’s not a big deal. My R9T shares the garage with a car built in 1970, and there are no evap emissions devices on it. There is a faint smell of fuel from the car that overpowers anything coming from the bike. Before 1971, this was a fact of life in every garage in the world. If you parked your car for a month, all the fuel in the carburetor float bowls would have evaporated, and you’d have to crank forever to refill them with your mechanical fuel pump before the car would start. My car’s fuel pump came equipped with a priming lever, so you could refill the float bowls after an extended time parked and save your starter and battery.

Can you imagine a time when a typical driver was expected to be able to locate their fuel pump under the hood? Now we’re lucky if someone knows how to open the hood in the first place.
 

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I think I've grasped most of the removal of the can, what I haven't understood is what happens to round valve type thing that is connected to the tube that goes in to the throttle body that gets capped ?

If the other end goes on to the canister and the throttle body gets capped does this not leave the vavle type thing along with a small connector with no where to go ??

Excuse my ignorance on this.
 

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Hi Cabby,
My understanding is that you have to put it back where it was even though there are no hoses/tubes connected to it.

On my side there are a few things I also wonder:
  • Do you need to cap the openings of that valve which no longer has tubes?
  • How difficult is it to remove the relay from the canister holder? (without breaking everything as I would like to keep the parts)
  • The relay is pretty big so do you need to unscrew the underseat tray to reroute it there? Also will it fit in the tray, under the plastic cover, if you have the alarm as it is already pretty cramped in there?
On a side note, what does that relay actually do?

Thanks for the help.
Cheers - Silaxe


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

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I've asked in the long canister topic but had no reply, so apologies to the mods for this.

Removed the charcoal canister and I'm left with a hose that I presume is coming from the tank, it's this one that I connect to the spare hose that is left hanging down ?? As per photo below.

Also, the valve that is left from the left hand throttle body tube, do I just reattach to where it's held on and leave it unconnected to anything ? I've capped the throttle body.
IMG_20200226_171358.jpg
 

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As far as I can say, Yes Yes and Yes. At least that is what I did..... I cut a bit off the hose from the tank and then it slides right into the slightly wider part of the hose that goes further down.....
The valve I first threw out as well, but then realized that it trows a yellow warning light on the dash... So I reconnected the cable and just left it there with no hoses attached.....
 

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That's an excellent idea of just shoving the hose inside the other, never thought of that.

Does the yellow warning light come up upon starting or once the bike has actually been ridden, reason I ask is, I've started it but not ridden it and no warning symbol has came up.
 

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That's an excellent idea of just shoving the hose inside the other, never thought of that.

Does the yellow warning light come up upon starting or once the bike has actually been ridden, reason I ask is, I've started it but not ridden it and no warning symbol has came up.
The light only comes up if you disconnect the wire to the valve....So if you left the valve in place, no light!
 

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Just done it about an hour ago.

1) Yes you do just stick the valve back on it's holding tab and leave it. As long as you don't disconnect the wiring that is attached to the valve, all is good (valve remains open at both ends)

2) I found getting the relay off the canister holder difficult and did indeed end up unintentionally breaking a tab somewhere.

3) I took all four screws out the undertray which gave me just enough room to slide the relay under seat, I will add though, it's massive and just fitted underneath the black plastic cover that's there so if you have something else under there also you may struggle to fit the relay under there.

4) No idea what the relay does.

HTH.
 

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I completed the canister removal successfully last night much to the chagrin of my millennial gear-head son who questioned why anyone in their right mind would remove a functional emissions device.

My bike is a 2018 and was purchased in Canada. The forum was most helpful and made for short work of the project. I highly recommend people read through this entire thread before starting. It will make for short work of the project.

Success.
 

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Hi Cabby,
Thanks for your answers.

Hauckster,
Is your bike equipped with the factory alarm? If so did you still have room for the relay in the underseat tray?

Thanks - Silaxe
 

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Silaxe,

I spent a little time on this.
  • remove 4-T25 cap screws from the bottom to loosen the black plastic tray
  • remove 4-T25 cap screws from plastic tail light assemble to make room to get the relay into the compartment
  • Photo of plastic to be removed to make room for relay
1.1.jpg

  • Cut plastic with Dremel
two.jpg


  • Replace panel (note removed excess plastic)
three.jpg


  • Place relay
four.jpg


  • And done
5.1.jpg
 

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Hauckster,
Thanks so much for taking these pictures and explaining what you did. Clearly a bit of work to make it work .
Cheers. Alexis


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