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No you get bulbs that slot right in! :)


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Dave: I appreciate the follow up. However, if the Cyclops was truly plug and play it would still be in my headlamp. I don’t have patience to map out how to make it work, while butchering the wiring harnesses. I don’t ride much at night and the stock
headlight doesn’t throw codes.

If anyone wants one cheap, just pm me.
 

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Well that’s disappointing. I ordered a Cyclops and a parking light LED based on the glowing reviews in this thread. It is backordered, so I’ll see if it’s too late to cancel.

My bike is a 2018, so I assume I’ll get the code as well. Old Owl, about how long did you have to ride before it threw a code? Do you recall if it was on low or high beam?
 

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The Cyclops H4 headlight bulb has been "plug and play" up to recently, and now it seems there might be an issue with compatibility with later bikes. I think as a community we need to get to the bottom of this so I'm going to start a new thread for members to give their experiences of the Cyclops H4 bulb installation.
 
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2019 Scrambler here, had the Cyclops H4 for about a month working fine and then it threw a code.

Contacted cyclops, excellent customer service, they said it was likely the ballast but sent me a whole new unit immediately. I checked the ballast and it is made out of thin tin metal for the housing- I had applied 3m tape to the top of the ballast housing and secured the ballast in the headlight.

What I am getting at is that the ballast is fragile and should be mounted with tape to the bottom of the ballast or not at all. My top mount had pulled open the ballast a tiny bit and messed things up.


So, contact Cyclops for support and be careful with the ballast mounting. The light is amazing other than that and I haven’t had any more issues.

You can find matching parking lights on Amazon, same exact spectrum as the Cyclops, looks great.


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That's an interesting update, hman. I'm not sure how else it could happen that the CANBUS takes a month to throw a code. I would think it either sees a low draw or it does not. Lights are a safety item, I can't picture them programing the system to wait for a month, or five events, or 200km, or anything else to warn you to check your lights. But I don't really know.
 

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I think my code was due to the light failing, not the system waiting to decide it didn't like the light.

When the code went up on the dash mid-ride, the headlight ceased working. High beams worked, low beams did not. I was able to get the light to work again a few hours later, but contacted Cyclops to get it replaced that day anyway.

My hypothesis is that a certain percentage of these Chinese ballasts succumb to the bike's vibrations in some way, which changes the electrical properties of the light/ballast sufficiently in some way to throw a code.

Or they overheat.. in any event the light rules and is DAY bright. I think I have an isolated issue and they should work on 2019 Scramblers.
 

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Dave: I appreciate the follow up. However, if the Cyclops was truly plug and play it would still be in my headlamp. I don’t have patience to map out how to make it work, while butchering the wiring harnesses. I don’t ride much at night and the stock
headlight doesn’t throw codes.

If anyone wants one cheap, just pm me.
Have you reached out to Cyclops? Looks as if their customer support is great.
 

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Dave: I appreciate the follow up. However, if the Cyclops was truly plug and play it would still be in my headlamp. I don’t have patience to map out how to make it work, while butchering the wiring harnesses. I don’t ride much at night and the stock
headlight doesn’t throw codes.

If anyone wants one cheap, just pm me.
If you ride mostly day time, it is even MORE important to have an H4 lamp like the Cyclops. It makes you way more visible to oncoming traffic glancing down at their cell phone.

Don't give up, contact Cyclops they will fix it for you.
 

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So! Ordered the LED conversion kit of Cyclops H4 from Headlight experts. Kit, you ask, are the two H4 LightBulbs along with warning remover with both Hi/Low beam. Was thinking it is complicated to install but it took me about 15 minutes do all that. It actually took me a little longer since I had the rizoma headlight guard and it was a breeze. My initial thought when I saw the three prong socket was that I may have to do some cutting and splicing. I am one of those people that would go to the dealership to remove/install anything on the bike, but started to work on my scrambler myself. Believe me, the H4 install was a breeze with no warning on dash.
The kit had two bulbs so I have one extra and that means I have to go get me an LED parking bulb. I thought It would be nice to change the OEM turn signals to LED's from Weiser Technik. I only ride during the day well 90% of time, but now I am curious how much more visible I am at night.

Wish I had made a video but will do next time i change my LED parking light
 

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Dave: I appreciate the follow up. However, if the Cyclops was truly plug and play it would still be in my headlamp. I don’t have patience to map out how to make it work, while butchering the wiring harnesses. I don’t ride much at night and the stock
headlight doesn’t throw codes.

If anyone wants one cheap, just pm me.
Old Owl,

I reached out to Cyclops today and got two quick replies to my emails. They are very eager to hear from you. There should be no code, and you should not have to modify your wiring harness.

Try them before you give up.

[email protected]
Darryl VanNieuwenhuise
Cyclops Adventure Sports
253-277-0408
800-624-0278
 

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I installed the Cyclops H4 main beam and T10 parking light LED's in my 2018 R Nine T.

The H4 bulb works well, high and low beam, no codes.

The T10 bulb immediately throws a code and a lamp fault symbol on the instruments. The code is 800E9A, Side lights, open circuit. Replacing the OEM W5W bulb clears the lamp symbol immediately, and if I clear the fault code with a GS-911 it does not return. This has nothing to do with whether the LED H4 bulb is installed or not, since I tried it both ways.

Cyclops graciously refunded my $15 and let me keep the T10 bulb.

Since I had a free bulb laying around, I decided to test it with my DC power supply. Nothing to lose, right?

In the first photo attached below, I am measuring the current through the Cyclops T10 bulb while supplying it with 13V DC. The current scale is at 1/10, so the bulb is only flowing about .14 Amperes. This means it is drawing just 1.8 Watts, so it’s no surprise that my bike sees this as an “open circuit.”

In the second photo, I am testing the OEM W5W bulb, and at .34 A and the same 13V, it is drawing 4.4 W.

The Cyclops web site says that their T10 bulb "Pulls 9 watts power.” Mine is pulling just 20% of that value. Did I get a bad bulb?

I have an inquiry in with Cyclops, and I've ordered a Phillips T10 LED and a cheapo T10 harness with a parallel resistor pack from eBay. When I have a chance to test those I'll update this thread.

Cheers, Tom


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Cyclops didn't have any help with their T10 Bulb. The customer service rep said he'd do some "digging with the guys in back" but that the vast majority of CANBUS bikes reportedly work with that parking bulb, so it's not a high priority.

Out of curiosity, I tried a Philips 4000K T10 from Amazon, since others had reported success. Instant lamp fault icon for me in my 2018. Looked very pretty though.

I fed it 13V on my test rig and found that it drew even less power than the Cyclops T10. I showed 0.05 Amperes, so about 2/3 of a Watt. Open Circuit code, again.

I put the OEM bulb back in, and the 4.4 Watt draw was enough to make the fault symbol go away.

I ordered a T10 parallel resistor harness off Amazon, I'll see if it makes either LED bulb work when I receive it. It's just like adding a resistor, but you don't have to hack your wiring harness. $15 for two of them, shipped directly from China.

I do want to get a whiter light to work. Now that the Cyclops H4 is installed, the yellow OEM parking light looks "wrong."

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I too tried the Cyclops parking LED, then the Philips LED you mentioned, and both threw codes. The Philips was also the wrong color by a lot, way too blue.

Then I ordered these bulbs off Amazon and the color is right and the 2019 Scrambler has thrown zero codes over the last 2 months since installing this parking light. I will not post a link but here is a screenshot. Matches the Cyclops H4 spectrum almost exactly. Also very cheap. I'm so excited that my bike has matching LEDs. So much safer during the day.

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Thanks Hman. I was looking at similar bulbs as my next move if the resistor harness isn’t a solution.

Regarding the Philips, it comes in 4000k (warm white) 6000k (bright white) and 8000K (bluish white.) Even the 6000 Kelvin is slightly hotter than the Cyclops, and so I would think the 8000K would be way too blue. Perhaps you had one of those? The 4000K that I have actually looked OK.
 

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Here is the parking bulb that was way too blue for me. Doesn't list K rating but says BRIGHT WHITE LIGHT so I assumed it wouldn't be blue. Wrong, it was very blue.

To be clear for everyone seeing this in the future, do NOT buy the below, they are too blue to match the Cyclops headlamp spectrum. If you can verify 4k then it should be close.
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OK, Two steps forward, one step back...

I got the resistor harnesses from Amazon, and they cure the lamp fault problems with both the Cyclops and Philips T10 bulbs.

The Cyclops bulb now draws .375 A at 13 V, so about 4.9 W. The Philips draws .29 A at the same voltage, for 3.8W. Neither lamp triggers a "lamp fault" icon or causes the bike to store an "open circuit" code. Hoorah!

Unfortunately, the cheap harnesses are of such low quality that I cannot use them or recommend them to others. The plastic plug that slots into your bike's harness is just a snap-fit two piece flimsy POS, and offers no water protection. The bulb socket on the other end of the harness is undersized, and does not fit correctly to the lamp housing, allowing the bulb to flop around and water to enter the headlight lens. These things are crap, as well I might expect for $15 a pair, shipping included from Hong Kong.

I could cut off the suspect socket adapters and just wire the resistor into my bike's harness, but I don't care to. So I'm back to the drawing board, with the OEM bulb in place.

Off to ride, have a nice weekend.

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Here is the parking bulb that was way too blue for me.
Hman, I can't tell for sure, but are you certain that's even an LED bulb? It appears to be an incandescent bulb with blue coloring? The lack of a color temperature rating would be odd for an LED...
 

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OK, so I got a set of the high-draw LED bulbs with many elements that some other people had luck with. I tested one with 13V, and it drew 2.6W. I ran it in my bike, and got a lamp fault signal and the same "side lights, open circuit" fault code stored. I cleared the code.

I soldered a better T10 socket onto my resistor harness and tested that at 5.5 Watts, which is more than the OEM incandescent bulb produces. I installed that, and it works: no lamp fault, no code.

I now have a bright, white light that matches the Cyclops H4 reasonably well. Am I completely happy? No, I am quite concerned about how much heat is now being generated in the lamp housing from two resistor packs plus one over-bright LED. I also have to face the fact that I have replaced a basic but high-quality BMW lighting system with cheap Chinese crap. The weather seals are not as effective, and if an LED element burns out from the heat, the resistor packs will prevent the system from warning me. Pretty appearance, but lousy engineering for a safety-critical component.

The biggest lesson is that my 2018 bike's CANBUS system is perversely sensitive to parking lamp current draw.

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