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I can't see the point Myself! Follow BM's instructions for the running in of their product, and I strongly doubt You'll have any bother, added expense or warranty concerns. And it's far less labour intensive! It's a no brainer!
 

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running-in not same as bedding-in

after discussing this at length with people who have had numerous bikes & cars from new, I gather that those 'old-wive's-tales' breaking in stories are mainly a relic from the past when alloys were not as developed, manufacturing less precise, oils less refined, fuels and combustion processes left more residual free radicals in the engine, etc, etc, etc ...

These days, most engines are in great shape, tested & tried from the factory, and most people agree that whatever doesn't happen during the first 2 hours of riding (piston rings honing cylinder surface & vice versa) is not going to happen after that. Whatever has been achieved, that's it.

Different story for bedding in and freeing up. Pretty much everyone agrees that somehow the bike jumps into a new character, is more responsive, eager to whiz about, only many many kms later ....

Me, I'll follow the R9T manual ... (page 57), undoubtedly the BMW engineers have proven they know their mettle ... that's why we love the bikes so much ... :)

Engine break-in speeds
<5500 min-1 (Odometer reading
0...124 miles (0...200 km))
<6500 min-1 (Odometer
reading 124...249 miles
(200...400 km))
<7500 min-1 (Odometer
reading 249...373 miles
(400...600 km))
Briefly maximum engine
speed (Odometer
reading 373...559 miles
(600...900 km))
 

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Me, I'll follow the R9T manual ... (page 57), undoubtedly the BMW engineers have proven they know their mettle ... that's why we love the bikes so much ... :)
Engine break-in speeds
<5500 min-1 (Odometer reading
0...124 miles (0...200 km))
<6500 min-1 (Odometer
reading 124...249 miles
(200...400 km))
<7500 min-1 (Odometer
reading 249...373 miles
(400...600 km))
Briefly maximum engine
speed (Odometer
reading 373...559 miles
(600...900 km))
+1 Huntsman and keep the revs below 4000rpm untill the engine is warmed up.
 

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497 Posts
Why Mineral oil?
Method "B" Example:
Break-in the engine using a wider range of varying engine speeds, including intervals of short duration high RPM runs.

I think the two best places to do this break-in is either the canyons or the race track. If you live near some canyons, go straight there for your break-in. If you can haul your bike to a race track, that's a great option as well. Do not "lug" the engine around at low RPM at all, and don't cruise around at the same RPM for any real length of time, but rather you should be fluctuating the RPM consistently. Don't even bother riding on the freeway at all for your first 500 miles, unless it's basically just on and right back off. One of the worse things you can do is baby the engine too much during break-in, along with running too hard too fast. You have to find a kind of happy medium between the two.

Oil and Oil Filter Change Schedule Summary -
Make sure no synthetic oil is used during the first 1500 miles. Use only regular motorcycle specific SAE 10W – 40 mineral (petroleum) oil that meets or exceeds the API SG and JASO MA2 standards. If you're not sure what oil is in your new bike, change it immediately to this oil, and change the filter as well. While 10w - 40 is best for most, if your particular climate or engine requires something different, then by all means use it.

50 Miles - Change oil and oil filter (Mineral Oil)
200 Miles - Change oil and oil filter (Mineral Oil)
500 Miles - Change oil and oil filter (Mineral Oil)
1500 Miles - Change oil and oil filter (Mineral Oil or Synthetic Oil as Desired)




 

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I think that following the Owner's manual in the case of the new bikes is likely best, because on the off-chance that the mineral oil used is somehow different than factory break-in, the whole careful exercise will wind up being for naught due to the metallurgy reaction to the diverse chemistry of the oil.
 

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I have done hard break-ins on my cars over the years, but would not recommend the on a boxer engine as on the 9T. My past 2 R1200GSA's had gentle break-in's as per BMW instructions and have been great engines and frugal on oil consumption.

My car's engine (BMW 3.0 IL6 Twin Turbo) had a hard break-in and oil change at 200km. It never uses any oil between services and out performs other identical cars on the dyno.
 

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Mineral oil has long been the advised lubricant for break-in. However, Mobil 1 makes a break-in oil. Brad Penn makes a break-in oil for old Porsche. Shell has one. Castrol; Royal Purple; Amsoil, etc. All have them. I'd go with the factory oil for as long as the factory says, and then do an oil and filter change. I'd check the fill point as soon as I got the bike before taking it off the lot of your dealer for a reference point on the gauge. I'd check that every 750 to observe consumption. Other than that, follow BMW break-in proceedure as closely as is humanly possible. alexford
 

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BMW R NineT Pure (A2)
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12 Posts
running-in not same as bedding-in

Engine break-in speeds
<5500 min-1 (Odometer reading
0...124 miles (0...200 km))
<6500 min-1 (Odometer
reading 124...249 miles
(200...400 km))
<7500 min-1 (Odometer
reading 249...373 miles
(400...600 km))
Briefly maximum engine
speed (Odometer
reading 373...559 miles
(600...900 km))
Hey, I'm new here and about to get my own first bike, that being the Pure (35 kW). Would you be so kind as to "decipher" these numbers for me? Do they refer to the "max" revs that should be used in the respective mileage range?

Thanks!
 

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2017 R Ninet Scrambler
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46 Posts
20 miles is too short IMO. You’re not running the components for the first time off the assembly line/machine shop. I’d say 500 miles is a good point. Use BMW fluids from the dealer so there is record of it if you’re worried about warranty issues. Just my opinion though, good luck!
 
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