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Look like I will be looking for a set of S1000RR forks for my 2014 classic.
Road today on back roads and front. Suspension needs work.
No adjustment on stock ones.



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I thought the Classic had adjustable forks? My Pure doesn't but the best money I ever spent on any bike was at a suspension specialist who set my Tuono up for me. Completely transformed the bike. This is something a lot of people skip and it's usually cheap, around $100.
 

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Only classic 9Ts after model year 2016 have adjustable front forks. Previously the USD forks were non-adjustable.


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I owned a 2019 RNINET classic and had an unfortunate accident that ended with the bike being totalled. I've since then went the cheaper route to I have a 2017 pure model. Front suspension is God awful as I get a bouncy front wheel at higher speeds. Never had that issue with stock suspension on 2019 classic model I had. After reading everyone's posts, I am just wanting to confirm would I be able to purchase s1000rr forks for the pure model? I would also need to upgrade brake calipers to fit the forks I believe. But I would much rather go the cheaper route than get ohlins front inverted forks. Please help!
 

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After reading everyone's posts, I am just wanting to confirm would I be able to purchase s1000rr forks for the pure model?
You would also need to change over the triple trees as the fork diameters are different.
More involved than just a straight swap! :eek:hmy:
 

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Just a note for anyone contemplating the S1000RR fork swap.

It only works on the 2014-16 "Classic". It doesn't appear to work on the 2017 & up "classic" with with the small abs ring front wheel assy.

This is a nice upgrade on the 2014-16 classic but be careful if you have a 2017 or later "classic". It looks like while the forks will go into the triple clamps there may be an issue with the R9T "small abs ring" axle / wheel fitting the S1000RR fork lowers.

Just FWIW.
Did you manage to get a solution to this? I just bought a set of 14 s1000rr forks to fit to my 18 classic and boom, axle is different as is the abs ring. Just ordered the s1000rr axle but may have to change wheel bearings to suit but the abs sensor will be a pain to fit.
 

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I just picked up a used set of S1000RR forks from, I believe, a 2015 S1000RR - black tubes, adjustment at top of fork only (nothing down by the axle). The 1-10 adjustment scale is a different color on each fork leg. One is red and one is yellow. I'm assuming one is compression and the other is rebound, but does anyone know which color is which?
 

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I answered my own question. I cranked 'em up to 10, and squished them about a bit. Red is compression, and yellow is rebound.
 

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Well, you all are a very bad influence, but you knew that.

I have been closely watching for some decent value suspension bits to upgrade my 2015 and today I may have taken a very positive step in the right direction in finding a nearly new (500-1000 miles) excellent condition and clean set of 2014 S1000RR fork assemblies. I don't have grand needs but a little higher quality and some adjustability should go a long way for me. Reading through the couple threads here on the topic the impressions have been quite good so I am optimistic. Shoudl be here in a week or so and I can at least confirm their physical condition. I am excited about the prospect.

Perhaps it would be a good idea to drain and replace the current oil? Is that a pretty straightforward process of removing teh top caps, pouring teh old out, replacing with some pre-determined volume and re-attaching the caps? Or is there a bit of more precise in-tube measuring involved? Is 5 wt the stock weight as I have read? Is 7.5 better for a heavier rider or should I just strat with what it was stock and see what that does? I have read here that the RR forks are already stiffer in stock form than the 9T forks stock. What is the level or volume if anyone knows please?
 

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So, these beauties arrived today. Low mielage take-offs from a 2014 model. Really nice, clean condition. A few very minor markings that will be hidden under the clamps or in an area not readily visible. A little excited about there. My fork oil should be here Friday and a couple of my home brew tools sit ready for action so I look forward to getting into these.:)

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Question on reusing the original 9T sensor mount. There is mention of having to lightly alter the mount. Is this the correct area of material removal, where it bumps into the compression adjustment hump?

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Following up on my own question and because I don't see it detailed in any earlier posts this is the area of modification for the 9T sensor bracket that I found in my case.

This is the area of contact
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This is the bracket area I removed to clear that
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This is the clearance gained and a very nice fit
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Here's to hoping the SS alignment is OK.
 

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Anyone done a fluid change on the older non-DDC S1000RR forks that could answer a few questions please?

I thought that I was ready, resreached, well-schooled and well tooled but alas, BMW humbles me yet again in this project... When I went in I naturally hit a snag where, due to the placement of the black spacer holes, the RaceTech spring compressor will not compress far enough to expose the nut, and I just can't get enough on that to lift, insert the wrench, etc and I fear that reassembly will be all but impossible for me alone. My research tonight indicates this as a common problem and there are a couple work-arounds, the easiest to drill a couple new holes higher up, 90* to the current ones to preserve strength in the tube. The other is to remove the lower allen bolt at the bottom and remove the entire assy. I did get those cracked loose tonight so I am good there. Is that level of disassembly needed just to change the oil? Then, how do I measure the new oil height with the cap attached, spacer and springs installed. That's not the right way I am guessing?

Any other pitfalls, losing the damper rod?

Are the 1st gen non-adjustable gold forks the same way for disassembly?

I need tricks and techniques ASAP please as I am hoping to have these complete by Friday

Full compression, no nut
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I have found the nut under the lower aluminum piece atop the black spacer
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Well, thanks to all the contributors to this and another thread at the S1000RR forum I successfully got through the disassembly, oil change and re-assembly with great success. And, first time ever inside a set of fork tubes so I am pretty pleased getting through the job. and no leftover parts. They're actually pretty intuitive once you're in there and see what's what.

One of teh keys to success is this spacer mod I employed. It was the simplest and best solution for me in using the Race Tech compressor making that a very viable tool for the job if you don't have the authentic BMW tool.

New set of higher holes, drilled in place before disassembly, with the stubbiest step drill I had after a small pilot hole was drilled. And the relationship to the original holes.
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On the rack, now fully compressed and it takes a slight pull up to get something under the nut
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I used a slightly modified door panel pry tool that was perfect for this job. and all the pieces are out except for the second friction sleeve that I left in place while draining. That one happened to fall out.
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The last area of contention was the damper rod assy on reassembly. I know folks mentioned a thread-on tool which would be ideal but there were no M13 by whatever inside thread things to be found so I experimented with come clear PVC tubing. This worked fine for purging air when pouring oil but failed a couple times when pulling up for that last little bit to get my tool under the nut. I got a couple fingers on the first one so that worked out fine. The second one I added a zip tie and while better also separated in that last higher tension pull so I did the same trick. If I ever do this again I might try a small hose clamp for better bite. Or just add a nut or two to my next parts order and rig a rod.
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But, with a couple improvised tools and techniques this job was far easier that I would have expected. And kudos to all that mentioned the '10 click' test for proper placement of the cap assembly. That is something I would have very easily blown past and regretted later.

And they're now installed on my 2015 R nineT!
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Cross posting here since teh forks are a key part of this project as well. I can successfully report that the 2015 RnineT will painlessly mate with both the S1000RR forks and the R1200R wheels in a single package. A little modification of the speed sensor mount bracket, new RnineT front wheel seals and shorter rear wheel lugs were all that was required to bolt everything up as if it came that way. I half expected some instance of incompatibility somewhere but there was none for this grouping beyond what is already common knowledge.

Specific to the forks, and my initial impressions. The very first thing was that the seems significantly stiffer than the stock non-adjustable version, which is to be expected. But I mean significantly. Preload two lines showing, no compression or rebound damping dialed in it was a pretty physical task in manually compressing the forks to check the amount of bounce and return speed as I have seen in videos. I could get nowhere near the bottom as I could with the originals. So instead of looking at lines I counted preload turns. Came in 10 full from all the way out and that was again around 2 lines showing. 3 clicks from out on the compression and rebound damping. A quick zip tie check had me at 15mm of rider sag. Manual says 10-15 so I am good there. I am no lightweight at around 250# and a quick shake out ride had the biggest zip tie moved right in the middle of the available rangs which as I understand it is where I want to be. Fresh BMW fork oil may have things a bit tight as well but the ride did seem more supple and less jarring. I'll now continue to monitor and play with things but really I don't think I'll appreciate the extent of the change until I install the Nitron R1 shock I have on order which may smooth the rear out as well. Time will tell.
 
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