[IanHoots]

It's unfortunate that it only does the problem ever couple of weeks, I would be sniffing around the diodes in the alternator (metaphorically). That is not typical current draw for a faulty alternator diode, they usually draw constantly when faulty.

Have you tried pulling the 10 amp fuse when it plays up? Will it still crank to allow you to test?

 

[IanHoots]

Got it. No attempts at starting the bike and voltage will steadily drop down as low as 10v with no intervention from you at all. The wiring diagram above shows the components controlled by the 10A fuse. The two idle actuators, the ABS module, starter relay, fuel pump and flapper valve, for a total of 6. The starter relay isn't likely the problem because it's working and you replaced the main relay. If you disconnected ALL the others, then try the handlebar connections. It seems really unlikely, but one could be stuck. You could check them with an ohm meter, or disconnect under power as the others. The only component I see that can draw heavy current is the fuel pump and you already tried it. Do you have the ability to isolate individual wires? Pulling them out of the connectors? Because now, I think you're looking for a bad handlebar switch which probably isn't drawing that kind of current, a wire rubbing metal somewhere, or the ECU itself. If you aren't sure you got the idle actuators, try disconnecting the small connector from the ECU and you'll get them both. How long from key on till volts drop below 12V?

Do you think an idle actuator drawing that amount of current would be noisey or even smoking? Must be a lot of current flow with those voltage readings

 

[IanHoots]

@IanHoots thanks on the alternator diode. As for drawing constantly, this draw does seem to be constant, it only stops when the main relay opens the circuit. I have not disconnected the alternator yet.

Yes when I pull the 10amp fuse, the draw is not there, which is why I am pretty sure the problem is on that circuit. As for starting with the 10amp fuse out, it cant because the starter is on that circuit.

As for the idle actuator drawing that amount of current itself, I dont think so.. but I am disconnecting components one by one just to try an isolate the problem. My guess is that it is a short, bare copper wire on frame, that is causing a draw this strong, that doesn't make any sound. But that guess is mostly because thats what I have seen on my bikes before. I have thought about shooting around with this thermometer gun looking for high temps.. but really hoping that disconnecting something is going to isolate it to a single component and its wiring.

If you have access to one, a thermal image camera is a quick way to find a short in wiring.
I might be thinking about this back to front. Is the 10amp fuse in the wiring diagram you posted the fuse in question? It looks like that fuse supplies the solenoid side of the main relay. If you pull the fuse the relay opens? Could you remove the relay, jump the 87 and 30 terminals and then test for current draw on the circuit that the relay switches on? I may have it back to front, kind of need to lay my hands on the bike to follow it around in my head.

 

[IanHoots]

The more I read your original post, the more I think the exact 1 minute opening of the relay is CANBUS shutting down.

Does your wiring diagram have other modules than the DME (engine control) listed? Something like a chassis control unit? I think that's a term used on old BMW bikes for the CAN BUS unit that turns most stuff like indicators and brake lights on and off.

I don't know enough about the wiring and don't have a diagram easily accessible.

CAN BUS control units do have the ability to draw a lot of current they turn stuff off if overloaded/shorted. Hence the lack of fuses.