Do you think an idle actuator drawing that amount of current would be noisey or even smoking? Must be a lot of current flow with those voltage readingsGot it. No attempts at starting the bike and voltage will steadily drop down as low as 10v with no intervention from you at all. The wiring diagram above shows the components controlled by the 10A fuse. The two idle actuators, the ABS module, starter relay, fuel pump and flapper valve, for a total of 6. The starter relay isn't likely the problem because it's working and you replaced the main relay. If you disconnected ALL the others, then try the handlebar connections. It seems really unlikely, but one could be stuck. You could check them with an ohm meter, or disconnect under power as the others. The only component I see that can draw heavy current is the fuel pump and you already tried it. Do you have the ability to isolate individual wires? Pulling them out of the connectors? Because now, I think you're looking for a bad handlebar switch which probably isn't drawing that kind of current, a wire rubbing metal somewhere, or the ECU itself. If you aren't sure you got the idle actuators, try disconnecting the small connector from the ECU and you'll get them both. How long from key on till volts drop below 12V?
Hunting down a mystery draw on the 10 amp circuit of a 2018 urban g/s
2018 urban g/s with 20k miles.
I ride daily and noticed a pattern where every 2 or 3 weeks the starter is sluggish and the battery voltage low. Bike may or may not start.
I get the following sequence on 2 batteries, the original and a replacement, both are AGM, lead-acid, load tested and solid.
I have added some electrical things like running lights, phone charger, and all are disconnected before I run the following sequence.
Morning, bike not started since previous day, fuel pump disconnected, tank up, multimeter gator clamps directly on battery terminals. Terminals clean, connections tight. Voltage reads 12.87. Insert key, turn ignition on, do not touch starter button. Voltage instantly drops to 12.4 as I hear the fuel pump cycle, I hear the exhaust flapper servo cycle, and then silence, in the headlamp the 5 watt running bulb is on, otherwise, nothing on, may be the rear brake LED running light, silence. Voltage continues to drop, 12.3. At this point the starter if fired will feel sluggish or may not turn over at all. On occasion I have seen voltage plummet to 11 and 10.3. Then I turn key to off and remove it. Voltage remains constant at say 12.4 or 12.3 and continues dropping until, at exactly 1 minute from when I turn the key to off, I hear and feel a relay in the flapper servo open, a split second later the main relay opens, and instantly, the voltage jumps a 10th of volt, to say 12.5, and keeps on rising steadily back too 12.7 or 12.8.
I pull the 4 amp fuse and the draw persists. I pull the 10 amp fuse and it stops. So seems to be on the 10amp circuit.
I remove the silencer and observe the servo move the flapper normally. Disconnect the flapper servo and turn the key to on, the draw persists. The main relay tested fine, but I replace it, and the draw persists.
I disconnect the fuel pump on the underside the of the tank, and the draw persists.
I disconnect ABS module. Draw persists.
I run the GS-911 and get no faults, all green. I have run the tests in the scanner including those on the flapper servo, fuel pump, and passed all tests.
Does anyone else find the same 1 minute shutdown sequence?
Does anyone know more about what is going on in this sequence and what might be able to cause a strong silent draw?
I have more experience with marine electric, and in those cases, when I saw similar voltage drop on the battery bank it was something like a bilge pump drawing near 10 amps or maybe a momentary drop by a refridgerator compressor firing.
I suspect this draw is maybe 6-8 amps.. it it was over 10 amps it would blow the 10 amp fuse, but that's never happened.
Thanks for reading.
Any ideas appreciated.
UPDATES:
Today after posting I began to disconnect components one by one. Disconnect, turn on key, watch for voltage drop, turn off key, observe voltage, reconnect. After about 5 cycles of running this sequence, that is to say, disconnecting 5 components, the voltage drop goes down into the 10 volts.. then 1 minute after key off, you hear the clicks of the 2 relays, and within 1 minute the voltage is back up to 12.6 volts. But at this point, I connect the 2amp noco charger and let the battery top off before I continue testing. So far none of the components I disconnect results in any change in the voltage dip. I do not know every component I have disconnected, but I have taken a pic of each and marked the connector with a white grease pencil. I could work to identify each one, but my plan is to wait until I see the voltage drop stop, at which point I will identify.
Here are the components I am familiar with that when disconnected that have no affect on the voltage drop:
Attached is the wiring diagram from my Haynes manual.
I ride daily and noticed a pattern where every 2 or 3 weeks the starter is sluggish and the battery voltage low. Bike may or may not start.
I get the following sequence on 2 batteries, the original and a replacement, both are AGM, lead-acid, load tested and solid.
I have added some electrical things like running lights, phone charger, and all are disconnected before I run the following sequence.
Morning, bike not started since previous day, fuel pump disconnected, tank up, multimeter gator clamps directly on battery terminals. Terminals clean, connections tight. Voltage reads 12.87. Insert key, turn ignition on, do not touch starter button. Voltage instantly drops to 12.4 as I hear the fuel pump cycle, I hear the exhaust flapper servo cycle, and then silence, in the headlamp the 5 watt running bulb is on, otherwise, nothing on, may be the rear brake LED running light, silence. Voltage continues to drop, 12.3. At this point the starter if fired will feel sluggish or may not turn over at all. On occasion I have seen voltage plummet to 11 and 10.3. Then I turn key to off and remove it. Voltage remains constant at say 12.4 or 12.3 and continues dropping until, at exactly 1 minute from when I turn the key to off, I hear and feel a relay in the flapper servo open, a split second later the main relay opens, and instantly, the voltage jumps a 10th of volt, to say 12.5, and keeps on rising steadily back too 12.7 or 12.8.
I pull the 4 amp fuse and the draw persists. I pull the 10 amp fuse and it stops. So seems to be on the 10amp circuit.
I remove the silencer and observe the servo move the flapper normally. Disconnect the flapper servo and turn the key to on, the draw persists. The main relay tested fine, but I replace it, and the draw persists.
I disconnect the fuel pump on the underside the of the tank, and the draw persists.
I disconnect ABS module. Draw persists.
I run the GS-911 and get no faults, all green. I have run the tests in the scanner including those on the flapper servo, fuel pump, and passed all tests.
Does anyone else find the same 1 minute shutdown sequence?
Does anyone know more about what is going on in this sequence and what might be able to cause a strong silent draw?
I have more experience with marine electric, and in those cases, when I saw similar voltage drop on the battery bank it was something like a bilge pump drawing near 10 amps or maybe a momentary drop by a refridgerator compressor firing.
I suspect this draw is maybe 6-8 amps.. it it was over 10 amps it would blow the 10 amp fuse, but that's never happened.
Thanks for reading.
Any ideas appreciated.
UPDATES:
Today after posting I began to disconnect components one by one. Disconnect, turn on key, watch for voltage drop, turn off key, observe voltage, reconnect. After about 5 cycles of running this sequence, that is to say, disconnecting 5 components, the voltage drop goes down into the 10 volts.. then 1 minute after key off, you hear the clicks of the 2 relays, and within 1 minute the voltage is back up to 12.6 volts. But at this point, I connect the 2amp noco charger and let the battery top off before I continue testing. So far none of the components I disconnect results in any change in the voltage dip. I do not know every component I have disconnected, but I have taken a pic of each and marked the connector with a white grease pencil. I could work to identify each one, but my plan is to wait until I see the voltage drop stop, at which point I will identify.
Here are the components I am familiar with that when disconnected that have no affect on the voltage drop:
- exhaust flapper servo
- fuel pump
- ABS module
Attached is the wiring diagram from my Haynes manual.
Attachments
21 - 40 of 53 Posts
Winston, Being a simple guy I'd first take my test light and go through all the accessories and switches (side-stand,horn,turn-signals) to see if anything is hot that should not be with the key off. I'd then pull apart the switches so I can get to the small circuit boards and do the similar test. I have had the same issue with a Honda Goldwing and a Kawi touring bike and found the trouble there; the result of a wire being chafed by electronics without proper install by the owner. Something is drawing electrons from somewhere so I always start with the most easy to repair. If the trouble is there you replace or repair a wire or switch takes less time and will most probably cost the least. If the trouble is within the more complex components then go with God and good fortune.
With things such as wiring troubles remember the old adage "when you hear the sounds of hoof beats look first for horses not Zebras " I only say this because your trouble seems rather simple in that your battery is not crashing, there's no smoke and the wrenched thing starts from time to time. Now it may be some demon in the ECU but at least hope not.
I have had one faze of the starter motor go bad from time to time so when the starter is in one spot the thing will not start or is hard to start; put the motorbike in gear and bump the thing a bit against the Bendix and try again and off you go. I don't even know if this is even relevant in modern motorbikes and one would think you'd be getting some proper error message on the clocks if this was the trouble but it's a thought..
With things such as wiring troubles remember the old adage "when you hear the sounds of hoof beats look first for horses not Zebras " I only say this because your trouble seems rather simple in that your battery is not crashing, there's no smoke and the wrenched thing starts from time to time. Now it may be some demon in the ECU but at least hope not.
I have had one faze of the starter motor go bad from time to time so when the starter is in one spot the thing will not start or is hard to start; put the motorbike in gear and bump the thing a bit against the Bendix and try again and off you go. I don't even know if this is even relevant in modern motorbikes and one would think you'd be getting some proper error message on the clocks if this was the trouble but it's a thought..
21 - 40 of 53 Posts
