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Installing LEDs on 2018

11706 Views 19 Replies 13 Participants Last post by  Chris<CJ>
I've now installed Rizoma LEDs on my 2018.

I have Club indicators on the front. I did not use the resistors that came with the turn signals and instead installed Rizoma resistors EE149H; one on each indicator. I also used the adapters, EE078H.

On the rear, I have the Rizoma sidearm license plate with a bit of an unusual set-up. Under the seat I have the Club S indicators that function as turn signals, brake lights and tail lights. At the end of the Side Arm license plate bracket I have the Rizoma integrated tail light, brake light and license plate light which is their part number EE130B. Also at the end of the Side Arm license plate bracket I have installed two LED turn signals as license plate bolts.

Rizoma provides a plug and play harness with the Side Arm license plate bracket. I destroyed mine when I installed it the first time three years ago and soldered it all together.

I did use resistors on the rear Club S turn signal circuits. I took a lead from a two wire OEM turn signal, cut it off so I could use the male adapter to plug into the rear wiring harness on the bike, soldered in a EE149H on each side, soldered it to the indicator wire and ground on the Club S and plugged it in. Worked like a charm.

This time I used the pig tail available from BMW that plugs into the Euro tail light plug and I soldered the running and brake lights to that. I thought I would have to use a resistor on both of those circuits, I did and IT DID NOT WORK. I took the resistors out and it worked. Why didn't I need resistors? Maybe they aren/t needed. Another explanation is that while I'm using LEDs which have lower resistance, the OEM tail light is LED even in the US, and I'm using the Euro tail plug and I'm running three tail lights/brake lights with one in each Club S and one over the license plate light. Maybe the change in resistance from OEM tail light to aftermarket LED taillight isn't as great as the difference between OEM indicator light and aftermarket LED indicator.

When I wired it all up, it didn't work. I got a fault on the dash and the brake and running/tail light seemed to be switched behind the wheel. Also the lights were too dim. I took the resistors out of the brake and tail light circuit. Still wasn't working but it was better. I disconnected the white wires on each Club S and it worked. I assumed the Club S had four wires: ground, turn signal indicator, running and brake light. I assumed the red was the brake and the white was the running light. When I disconnected the white all the faults disappeared and it worked without that light. Apparently the canbus controls brake and running light with a single wire by adjusting the current.

When it was finished and working right I just shook my head because I never would have thought that was the right setup. In fact, I only found it by accident. Regardless, it's working.
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I've now installed Rizoma LEDs on my 2018.

I have Club indicators on the front. I did not use the resistors that came with the turn signals and instead installed Rizoma resistors EE149H; one on each indicator. I also used the adapters, EE078H.

On the rear, I have the Rizoma sidearm license plate with a bit of an unusual set-up. Under the seat I have the Club S indicators that function as turn signals, brake lights and tail lights. At the end of the Side Arm license plate bracket I have the Rizoma integrated tail light, brake light and license plate light which is their part number EE130B. Also at the end of the Side Arm license plate bracket I have installed two LED turn signals as license plate bolts.

Rizoma provides a plug and play harness with the Side Arm license plate bracket. I destroyed mine when I installed it the first time three years ago and soldered it all together.

I did use resistors on the rear Club S turn signal circuits. I took a lead from a two wire OEM turn signal, cut it off so I could use the male adapter to plug into the rear wiring harness on the bike, soldered in a EE149H on each side, soldered it to the indicator wire and ground on the Club S and plugged it in. Worked like a charm.

This time I used the pig tail available from BMW that plugs into the Euro tail light plug and I soldered the running and brake lights to that. I thought I would have to use a resistor on both of those circuits, I did and IT DID NOT WORK. I took the resistors out and it worked. Why didn't I need resistors? Maybe they aren/t needed. Another explanation is that while I'm using LEDs which have lower resistance, the OEM tail light is LED even in the US, and I'm using the Euro tail plug and I'm running three tail lights/brake lights with one in each Club S and one over the license plate light. Maybe the change in resistance from OEM tail light to aftermarket LED taillight isn't as great as the difference between OEM indicator light and aftermarket LED indicator.

When I wired it all up, it didn't work. I got a fault on the dash and the brake and running/tail light seemed to be switched behind the wheel. Also the lights were too dim. I took the resistors out of the brake and tail light circuit. Still wasn't working but it was better. I disconnected the white wires on each Club S and it worked. I assumed the Club S had four wires: ground, turn signal indicator, running and brake light. I assumed the red was the brake and the white was the running light. When I disconnected the white all the faults disappeared and it worked without that light. Apparently the canbus controls brake and running light with a single wire by adjusting the current.

When it was finished and working right I just shook my head because I never would have thought that was the right setup. In fact, I only found it by accident. Regardless, it's working.
Awesome JOB, can we see a pic of the rear end???
Awesome JOB, can we see a pic of the rear end???
Wow, that's a personal question mate! :eek::giggle: ;)

Yeah photos of the rear of THE BIKE would be good! :D
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Wow, that's a personal question mate! :eek::giggle: ;)

Yeah photos of the rear of THE BIKE would be good! :D
Hahaha :eusa_clap::eek:hmy: Good one... So yes please, take some snaps of the backside on your BIKE hehe ;) preferably with the brakes applied and one or two other scenarios if you can enlist someone to help you...
I installed the Rizoma “SIDE ARM” License plate support kit and attached the Rizoma Club S to the outside of the plates for additional braking and turn signals. I say additional because I also had the Daedalus Tail Tidy installed too... I am a believer in being SEEN... California drivers (and most drivers in the WORLD) are just FORKING oblivious to us moto heads on the road. If their not eating, putting lipstick on, or mainly on their smartphones, or sometimes ALL THREE (YES I HAD A LADY ALMOST HIT ME DOING ALL 3) its a miracle... haha
You can see my bike on my Instagram feed:https://www.instagram.com/p/BbkwxRTgUac/?taken-by=freddycerrato
I've now installed Rizoma LEDs on my 2018.

When I wired it all up, it didn't work. I got a fault on the dash and the brake and running/tail light seemed to be switched behind the wheel. Also the lights were too dim. I took the resistors out of the brake and tail light circuit. Still wasn't working but it was better. I disconnected the white wires on each Club S and it worked. I assumed the Club S had four wires: ground, turn signal indicator, running and brake light. I assumed the red was the brake and the white was the running light. When I disconnected the white all the faults disappeared and it worked without that light. Apparently the canbus controls brake and running light with a single wire by adjusting the current.

When it was finished and working right I just shook my head because I never would have thought that was the right setup. In fact, I only found it by accident. Regardless, it's working.

Yes, the brake and running light is a single PWM modulated signal. You can, however, connect the red and white together as well.



https://www.ninetowners.com/forum/b...001-racer-rizoma-side-arm-club-signals-2.html


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Attached are photos with the blinkers on, tail lights only and brake light on. The brake light is considerably brighter than the picture would lead you to think. My phone adjusted the settings for the increased brightness. I'll send some more taken at night.

I actually thought the light would be overwhelming but it's not. More than bright enough though.

Having done all of this, I'm going to redo it all. The wiring is ugly and soldered together and I want to make it nice and neat with bullet connectors. I didn't alter the rear wiring harness at all and connected everything to that with OEM connectors. I just want certain of the other connections set up so I can unplug them.

I'm also going to add two more mini LED brake lights in the lower license plate holes.

I was rear ended by an SUV on a previous bike that was carrying this Side Arm license plate bracket. The contact bent the bracket by a few degrees so it's a bit off center. I'll replace that as well because it bugs me as it is though I doubt most people would notice.

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Attached are photos with the blinkers on, tail lights only and brake light on. The brake light is considerably brighter than the picture would lead you to think. My phone adjusted the settings for the increased brightness. I'll send some more taken at night.

I actually thought the light would be overwhelming but it's not. More than bright enough though.

Having done all of this, I'm going to redo it all. The wiring is ugly and soldered together and I want to make it nice and neat with bullet connectors. I didn't alter the rear wiring harness at all and connected everything to that with OEM connectors. I just want certain of the other connections set up so I can unplug them.

I'm also going to add two more mini LED brake lights in the lower license plate holes.

I was rear ended by an SUV on a previous bike that was carrying this Side Arm license plate bracket. The contact bent the bracket by a few degrees so it's a bit off center. I'll replace that as well because it bugs me as it is though I doubt most people would notice.


Looks great brother...


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i just ordered 2 pairs of Rizoma EE149H. I had my dealer install both club S turn signals for front and rear. Correct flash rate but the bike still throws a code.

I emailed rizoma and they said "On the bikes with LED OEM lights, we recommend the following..4 indicator + 4 EE078H+ 4 EE149H + schema1".
I believe my dealer installed the EE078H.
I have total 4 EE19H for each signal
WTH is a schema1? :|

Can anyone elaborate or shed light on how this is installed. I have the Haynes manual but cant say Ive gotten the right answer from that. I can locate the resistors installed by my dealer but not sure if the new resistors are plugged right into before/after current resistors.

Thanks
I needed 5 rizoma resistors. One for each turn signal, and one for the brake circuit.


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Great thread for addressing the Rizoma LEDs! However, they make resistors which they sell tailor-made to their products which is nice and easy. What I'm struggling with is off-brand LED signals needing resistors. I have a pair of the New Rage Cycles signals up front. I have the Rizoma Club and Daedalus tidy in back, but their resistors are working perfectly. I know because when I put the OEM signals back on front, no hyper-flash or dash error. When I contacted NRC for a tech sheet with w, ohm, etc. they couldn't provide.

So my question is what sort of resistor solutions have people found for those turn signals whose parent companies that don't readily make them?

I've seen a couple resistor solutions out there:
1. 3w/38ohm Rizoma - currently in my possession but haven't tried yet bc of bullet connectors
2. 5w/39ohm Rizoma - mentioned in this post
3. 5w/50ohm generic - both my electrical engineer friend and the folks at Daedalus recommended this
4. 50w/60ohm generic - have seen this solution on forums for pre-2017 bikes and Amazon Canbus searches come up with this

Any advice out there? Thanks!
EDIT- @BillB are you still active on this forum? I found some of your posts about this on another thread. Please get in touch if you have any ideas you can share :)
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EDIT- @BillB are you still active on this forum? I found some of your posts about this on another thread. Please get in touch if you have any ideas you can share :)

I spent a bit of time on this when I first got my 2017 Racer, as it was definitely different than the previous years. I had to experiment as no LED maker had yet developed a solution for the 2017s. As shown in my schematic above, I selected 39R to account for both over and under-current thresholds when the bike is on, running, and on-throttle.


Unfortunately, given the variety of LEDs available I'm not sure there is a one-size-fits-all value but I suspect that they should all be relatively close as the LEDs by themselves are drawing very little. My bike wanted to see a signal draw between 0.3A and 2A, and keep in mind that the voltage is 12V nominal that increases when the bike is running and more so when on throttle.


My bike has been wired like this for 2 years now without a problem.
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My bike has been wired like this for 2 years now without a problem.
wow, ask and I shall recieve. exactly the info I was looking for. hadn't ever considered the draw when on-throttle. thanks so much for sharing your experience! I'm going to play around and see what works for my hardware...
hey guys, I'm looking to replace my front turn signals with Rizoma's on my 2017. Could someone let me know the part numbers that I'll need to ensure the flash rate is correct and there are no codes on the dash? I did read the full thread above but I'm not sure which applies to the front and the rear since I'm only doing the front (I have a Daedalus tail tidy already)

thanks!
hey guys, I'm looking to replace my front turn signals with Rizoma's on my 2017. Could someone let me know the part numbers that I'll need to ensure the flash rate is correct and there are no codes on the dash? I did read the full thread above but I'm not sure which applies to the front and the rear since I'm only doing the front (I have a Daedalus tail tidy already)

thanks!
pretty sure resistor part code is EE149H and I also know there's a quick connector add-on as well.. it might be EE078H.
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pretty sure resistor part code is EE149H and I also know there's a quick connector add-on as well.. it might be EE078H.
Awesome. Thank you sir!
Well, I got the parts and I was hoping it came with instructions. I have no idea where to begin. Has anyone done a how to for the front turn signals?
Help with LED resistors

Hello all and happy 2021
I installed small cheap LED turn signals on my newly owned 2018 UGS that I love. And of- course when riding I’m getting a warning signal on my dash.
I know I need to instal resistors, but I done know which resistance I need?
further more I really don’t want to spend over $50 on Rizoma resistors when you can buy resistors online for $2 a unite. Can some one be so kind and direct me to the correct resistors I should get, a link would be even nicer :).
Further more in a week I will be installing a Acerbis Baja rear fender and will use a LED bulb as well.Will I need a resistor for the rear light as well??
Thank you all. Love this forum.
139334
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Help with LED resistors

Hello all and happy 2021
I installed small cheap LED turn signals on my newly owned 2018 UGS that I love. And of- course when riding I’m getting a warning signal on my dash.
I know I need to instal resistors, but I done know which resistance I need?
further more I really don’t want to spend over $50 on Rizoma resistors when you can buy resistors online for $2 a unite. Can some one be so kind and direct me to the correct resistors I should get, a link would be even nicer :).
Further more in a week I will be installing a Acerbis Baja rear fender and will use a LED bulb as well.Will I need a resistor for the rear light as well??
Thank you all. Love this forum. View attachment 139334
I am in the same boat!
Hey guys, hoping yall can help me out because I've been battling my LED rear turn signal light issue for 2+ years now. Long story short I have a US Spec 2018 Urban GS and about 2 years ago I did a tail tidy and changed out my tail for a Euro Spec LED rear light and I cheaped out and bought cheap Chinese knock off BMW LEDs. I wired in 39 Ohm 10 watt resistors in parallel and I would get the error light occasionally and the fast blink turn signal. I tried doing away with the plugs and wiring them direct but still same issue. After about 10 miles or so they throw the error code. I can turn the bike off and sometimes they go away but they always come back. I tired swapping the resistors for new ones but no luck. I did read online that if the fronts are still incans that maybe it's sensing a difference and throwing the codes but that seems unlikely. Any tips? Thanks guys!

EDIT: I noticed that the resistance of my stock incan turn signals is only 6 ohms which seems really low. Is it possible I either don't need a resistor or put too large of a resistor in?
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Resistance calculator
Resistance value required may be calculated as follows: R = 144/P, where P is the power in watts of the turn signal bulb used on your bike. Resistor power rating should be at least double the power rating of the turn signal bulb.
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