I've now installed Rizoma LEDs on my 2018.
I have Club indicators on the front. I did not use the resistors that came with the turn signals and instead installed Rizoma resistors EE149H; one on each indicator. I also used the adapters, EE078H.
On the rear, I have the Rizoma sidearm license plate with a bit of an unusual set-up. Under the seat I have the Club S indicators that function as turn signals, brake lights and tail lights. At the end of the Side Arm license plate bracket I have the Rizoma integrated tail light, brake light and license plate light which is their part number EE130B. Also at the end of the Side Arm license plate bracket I have installed two
LED turn signals as license plate bolts.
Rizoma provides a plug and play harness with the Side Arm license plate bracket. I destroyed mine when I installed it the first time three years ago and soldered it all together.
I did use resistors on the rear Club S turn signal circuits. I took a lead from a two wire OEM turn signal, cut it off so I could use the male adapter to plug into the rear wiring harness on the bike, soldered in a EE149H on each side, soldered it to the indicator wire and ground on the Club S and plugged it in. Worked like a charm.
This time I used the pig tail available from BMW that plugs into the Euro tail light plug and I soldered the running and brake lights to that. I thought I would have to use a resistor on both of those circuits, I did and IT DID NOT WORK. I took the resistors out and it worked. Why didn't I need resistors? Maybe they aren/t needed. Another explanation is that while I'm using LEDs which have lower resistance, the OEM tail light is LED even in the US, and I'm using the Euro tail plug and I'm running three tail lights/brake lights with one in each Club S and one over the license plate light. Maybe the change in resistance from OEM tail light to aftermarket LED taillight isn't as great as the difference between OEM indicator light and aftermarket LED indicator.
When I wired it all up, it didn't work. I got a fault on the dash and the brake and running/tail light seemed to be switched behind the wheel. Also the lights were too dim. I took the resistors out of the brake and tail light circuit. Still wasn't working but it was better. I disconnected the white wires on each Club S and it worked. I assumed the Club S had four wires: ground, turn signal indicator, running and brake light. I assumed the red was the brake and the white was the running light. When I disconnected the white all the faults disappeared and it worked without that light. Apparently the canbus controls brake and running light with a single wire by adjusting the current.
When it was finished and working right I just shook my head because I never would have thought that was the right setup. In fact, I only found it by accident. Regardless, it's working.