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2014 R9T Roadster
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23 Posts
Phew - very good to know, @dxamet . Thank you again for all the effort. I hope to return the favour one day.
Sorry @dxamet . Not knowing anything about wire, I ordered this
Image is also attached.

The RT wire looks copper, but this is silver and I think has many more threads. Sorry but do you know what type of wire I should order, or if this is compatible? Thank you
 

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I wouldn't add any wire into the splice. That looks like the CANBus wire. Remove some of the insulation from both sides, crimp on a bare metal crimper, then cover with heat shrink and wrap with fabric tape. A piece of that slinky cover you posted would be a great addition on top of all that. Here's what the crimp from an OEM BMW wire repair kit looks like. I'm local in GTA as well if you want moral support.

140422
 

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2014 R9T Roadster
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23 Posts
I wouldn't add any wire into the splice. That looks like the CANBus wire. Remove some of the insulation from both sides, crimp on a bare metal crimper, then cover with heat shrink and wrap with fabric tape. A piece of that slinky cover you posted would be a great addition on top of all that. Here's what the crimp from an OEM BMW wire repair kit looks like. I'm local in GTA as well if you want moral support.

View attachment 140422
Thanks Gaprunr
 

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Hey guys and gals,

Riding a 2018 R Nine T, the left side dial [speedometer] is not working properly.

When the handlebars are turned to the left the speedometer dial is on and working fine, however, as soon as I turn the handlebar the left dial only [the one with the speedometer] switches off.

All connections look normal and undamaged.

Anyone got any ideas as to what cables I should be looking at?

Thought I’d try here before taking it in.

A huge thanks

Mus
 

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Hey guys and gals,

Riding a 2018 R Nine T, the left side dial [speedometer] is not working properly.

When the handlebars are turned to the left the speedometer dial is on and working fine, however, as soon as I turn the handlebar the left dial only [the one with the speedometer] switches off.

All connections look normal and undamaged.

Anyone got any ideas as to what cables I should be looking at?

Thought I’d try here before taking it in.

A huge thanks

Mus
Hey mate,

it could be the wiring loom has damage where it passes around the headstock area, it was a known issue - especially on older (pre 2016) bikes but could I guess still happen on later ones even though a fix of sorts was applied. I've moved your post to the thread concerned, please have a read through. However your bike is covered under warranty I expect, so I'd let the dealer worry about this, not you.
 

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2,857 Posts
Everyone Is Going To Deal With This One ! (Merged)

Have you noticed the wiring to your instrument cluster (the Clocks) ....
When it leaves the main body of the bike it crosses over to link up with the triple tree and the instrument package which means it gets bent back and forth every time you turn the handle bars. Eventually it’s gotta give ... get ready because everyone is going to have this problem eventually.
This one should go on everyone’s list of “to-do” something to check as regular maintenance.
My instruments went dead while out riding, Here’s what I found ........
If you’re having any electrical issues involving anything on your handle bars, start/stop, horn, bright light switch, turn signals, heated grips ..... anything on the handlebars be sure and check this first before dismantling any of the switches or handlebar controls. Could save you some time and probably a new switch too when you can’t get the original switch back together...
143198


That’s the wire cluster to my instruments .... here’s another view .....
143199


I stripped the cover back and found two wires were completely broken
143200


I stripped the leads back but I didn’t want to make them shorter by just twisting them together so I added a tiny piece of wire to solder them back together at the same original length ...
143201


I used a short piece of strand copper wire to wrap both wires together then solder. This can be tricky trying to hold them together and solder, they get hot, so I built a tool from two alligator clips to hold them for me then I can use both hands to solder it with out touching either wire .... works well.
Don’t forget to put your shrink tube on first before you twist them together or solder ......
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...once they are soldered slide your shrink tube over the soldered connection and heat .... remember and DO NOT use your lighter to heat the tube, you are inches from your gas tank, use a hot air gun or designated air heater like mine. Made just for shrink tubing.
143203


I then wrapped the cluster of wires with good 3M brand 33+ tape. I would have preferred to put them in a larger piece of shrink tube but I don’t have the proper pin tool to remove the plug and allow me to slip it through some shrink tube so I did the second best thing, I used good tape wrapped three times and then put it in a plastic protector tube that’s has a slit down the center ....
it’s the black ribbed tube in the pict.... Let’s hope it’s good for five more years ........... Blitz
143204
 

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R nineT
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2018 R1200RT - 2015 RNineT
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331 Posts
I have the forks off my 2015 9T having cartridges installed so I thought I should proactively see what's going on with my wiring harness at the headstock.
143338



I found the loom material with a crack but it didn't appear that any of the wires had been compromised yet. I decided to take a slightly different approach since everything is still good for all intents. I decided the harness needed some additional support to reinforce the kink that had developed.
143329



I inserted wire tie into the slit in the loom and pushed it as far into and towards the gauges until it stopped without forcing it.
143330



I then cut the tag end at a point where the harness clamps at the frame, rounded the cut so there were no sharp corners and inserted that into the loom going towards the tank.
143331

143332



I then wrapped the loom using a fiber electrical tape
143334

143335

143336



I added a second layer of 3/8" wire wrap over top of the fiber tape and onto the 1/4" wire loom.
143337


As seen in the above pic, I did not reattach the harness under the gauge bracket as it was from the factor so it has more room to move and not kink.

Not advocating that anyone else does this, I'll report back in a few months to update on how it is holding up.
 

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I have the forks off my 2015 9T having cartridges installed so I thought I should proactively see what's going on with my wiring harness at the headstock.
View attachment 143338


I found the loom material with a crack but it didn't appear that any of the wires had been compromised yet. I decided to take a slightly different approach since everything is still good for all intents. I decided the harness needed some additional support to reinforce the kink that had developed.
View attachment 143329


I inserted wire tie into the slit in the loom and pushed it as far into and towards the gauges until it stopped without forcing it.
View attachment 143330


I then cut the tag end at a point where the harness clamps at the frame, rounded the cut so there were no sharp corners and inserted that into the loom going towards the tank.
View attachment 143331
View attachment 143332


I then wrapped the loom using a fiber electrical tape
View attachment 143334
View attachment 143335
View attachment 143336


I added a second layer of 3/8" wire wrap over top of the fiber tape and onto the 1/4" wire loom.
View attachment 143337

As seen in the above pic, I did not reattach the harness under the gauge bracket as it was from the factor so it has more room to move and not kink.

Not advocating that anyone else does this, I'll report back in a few months to update on how it is holding up.
Bravo Dirtmerchant, great time to take the opportunity to prevent what I went through. The wire tie is genius, that thing will never give up its wireness-like strength. It will certainly spread out the torque and make it all last longer. Wish I’d thought to do that. Thanks for the tip. I know there’ll come a time when I’ll use that one in the future. ........Blitz
“Take a hint BMW for future builds, that cable of wires will never kink again” Great Idea DM!
 

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2015 Roadster
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6 Posts
Extremely grateful for this thread.

My 2015 classic developed this exact issue not long after I bought it (a couple of months ago now). Before I found this post I had stopped by BMW in York (North England) to have them diagnose the problem, "no idea mate" was all I got!

I found this post, looked at my bike, found the pinching (see photo) and got the bike booked in with the dealer who fixed it under warranty. Same solution: add some length to the existing wires and let it hang a little so it no longer gets pulled in left lock.

Now fixed, I've had no repeat of a dodgy dash 😃
144543
 
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