Sorry, I'm not familiar with American Wire Gauge, I had to look this up. 20 AWG is correct, here it is 0.75 mm2
Instrument Cluster and Headlamp wiring loom failure
This happened last week to my ninet, wire break.
14000 km. Tomorrow I go to the dealer.
14000 km. Tomorrow I go to the dealer.
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101 - 120 of 137 Posts
Sorry @dxamet . Not knowing anything about wire, I ordered this
BNTECHGO 20 Gauge Silicone Wire Kit Ultra Flexible 7 Color High Resistant 200 deg C 600V Silicone Rubber Insulation 20 AWG Silicone Wire 100 Strands of Tinned Copper Wire Stranded Wire Cable : Amazon.ca: Tools & Home Improvement
BNTECHGO 20 Gauge Silicone Wire Kit Ultra Flexible 7 Color High Resistant 200 deg C 600V Silicone Rubber Insulation 20 AWG Silicone Wire 100 Strands of Tinned Copper Wire Stranded Wire Cable : Amazon.ca: Tools & Home Improvement
www.amazon.ca
The RT wire looks copper, but this is silver and I think has many more threads. Sorry but do you know what type of wire I should order, or if this is compatible? Thank you
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I wouldn't add any wire into the splice. That looks like the CANBus wire. Remove some of the insulation from both sides, crimp on a bare metal crimper, then cover with heat shrink and wrap with fabric tape. A piece of that slinky cover you posted would be a great addition on top of all that. Here's what the crimp from an OEM BMW wire repair kit looks like. I'm local in GTA as well if you want moral support.
![140422]()
Everyone Is Going To Deal With This One ! (Merged)
Have you noticed the wiring to your instrument cluster (the Clocks) ....
When it leaves the main body of the bike it crosses over to link up with the triple tree and the instrument package which means it gets bent back and forth every time you turn the handle bars. Eventually it’s gotta give ... get ready because everyone is going to have this problem eventually.
This one should go on everyone’s list of “to-do” something to check as regular maintenance.
My instruments went dead while out riding, Here’s what I found ........
If you’re having any electrical issues involving anything on your handle bars, start/stop, horn, bright light switch, turn signals, heated grips ..... anything on the handlebars be sure and check this first before dismantling any of the switches or handlebar controls. Could save you some time and probably a new switch too when you can’t get the original switch back together...
![143198]()
That’s the wire cluster to my instruments .... here’s another view .....
![143199]()
I stripped the cover back and found two wires were completely broken
![143200]()
I stripped the leads back but I didn’t want to make them shorter by just twisting them together so I added a tiny piece of wire to solder them back together at the same original length ...
![143201]()
I used a short piece of strand copper wire to wrap both wires together then solder. This can be tricky trying to hold them together and solder, they get hot, so I built a tool from two alligator clips to hold them for me then I can use both hands to solder it with out touching either wire .... works well.
Don’t forget to put your shrink tube on first before you twist them together or solder ......
![143202]()
...once they are soldered slide your shrink tube over the soldered connection and heat .... remember and DO NOT use your lighter to heat the tube, you are inches from your gas tank, use a hot air gun or designated air heater like mine. Made just for shrink tubing.
![143203]()
I then wrapped the cluster of wires with good 3M brand 33+ tape. I would have preferred to put them in a larger piece of shrink tube but I don’t have the proper pin tool to remove the plug and allow me to slip it through some shrink tube so I did the second best thing, I used good tape wrapped three times and then put it in a plastic protector tube that’s has a slit down the center ....
it’s the black ribbed tube in the pict.... Let’s hope it’s good for five more years ........... Blitz
![143204]()
Have you noticed the wiring to your instrument cluster (the Clocks) ....
When it leaves the main body of the bike it crosses over to link up with the triple tree and the instrument package which means it gets bent back and forth every time you turn the handle bars. Eventually it’s gotta give ... get ready because everyone is going to have this problem eventually.
This one should go on everyone’s list of “to-do” something to check as regular maintenance.
My instruments went dead while out riding, Here’s what I found ........
If you’re having any electrical issues involving anything on your handle bars, start/stop, horn, bright light switch, turn signals, heated grips ..... anything on the handlebars be sure and check this first before dismantling any of the switches or handlebar controls. Could save you some time and probably a new switch too when you can’t get the original switch back together...
That’s the wire cluster to my instruments .... here’s another view .....
I stripped the cover back and found two wires were completely broken
I stripped the leads back but I didn’t want to make them shorter by just twisting them together so I added a tiny piece of wire to solder them back together at the same original length ...
I used a short piece of strand copper wire to wrap both wires together then solder. This can be tricky trying to hold them together and solder, they get hot, so I built a tool from two alligator clips to hold them for me then I can use both hands to solder it with out touching either wire .... works well.
Don’t forget to put your shrink tube on first before you twist them together or solder ......
...once they are soldered slide your shrink tube over the soldered connection and heat .... remember and DO NOT use your lighter to heat the tube, you are inches from your gas tank, use a hot air gun or designated air heater like mine. Made just for shrink tubing.
I then wrapped the cluster of wires with good 3M brand 33+ tape. I would have preferred to put them in a larger piece of shrink tube but I don’t have the proper pin tool to remove the plug and allow me to slip it through some shrink tube so I did the second best thing, I used good tape wrapped three times and then put it in a plastic protector tube that’s has a slit down the center ....
it’s the black ribbed tube in the pict.... Let’s hope it’s good for five more years ........... Blitz
I have the forks off my 2015 9T having cartridges installed so I thought I should proactively see what's going on with my wiring harness at the headstock.
![143338]()
I found the loom material with a crack but it didn't appear that any of the wires had been compromised yet. I decided to take a slightly different approach since everything is still good for all intents. I decided the harness needed some additional support to reinforce the kink that had developed.
![143329]()
I inserted wire tie into the slit in the loom and pushed it as far into and towards the gauges until it stopped without forcing it.
![143330]()
I then cut the tag end at a point where the harness clamps at the frame, rounded the cut so there were no sharp corners and inserted that into the loom going towards the tank.
![143331]()
![143332]()
I then wrapped the loom using a fiber electrical tape
![143334]()
![143335]()
![143336]()
I added a second layer of 3/8" wire wrap over top of the fiber tape and onto the 1/4" wire loom.
![143337]()
As seen in the above pic, I did not reattach the harness under the gauge bracket as it was from the factor so it has more room to move and not kink.
Not advocating that anyone else does this, I'll report back in a few months to update on how it is holding up.
I found the loom material with a crack but it didn't appear that any of the wires had been compromised yet. I decided to take a slightly different approach since everything is still good for all intents. I decided the harness needed some additional support to reinforce the kink that had developed.
I inserted wire tie into the slit in the loom and pushed it as far into and towards the gauges until it stopped without forcing it.
I then cut the tag end at a point where the harness clamps at the frame, rounded the cut so there were no sharp corners and inserted that into the loom going towards the tank.
I then wrapped the loom using a fiber electrical tape
I added a second layer of 3/8" wire wrap over top of the fiber tape and onto the 1/4" wire loom.
As seen in the above pic, I did not reattach the harness under the gauge bracket as it was from the factor so it has more room to move and not kink.
Not advocating that anyone else does this, I'll report back in a few months to update on how it is holding up.
Extremely grateful for this thread.
My 2015 classic developed this exact issue not long after I bought it (a couple of months ago now). Before I found this post I had stopped by BMW in York (North England) to have them diagnose the problem, "no idea mate" was all I got!
I found this post, looked at my bike, found the pinching (see photo) and got the bike booked in with the dealer who fixed it under warranty. Same solution: add some length to the existing wires and let it hang a little so it no longer gets pulled in left lock.
Now fixed, I've had no repeat of a dodgy dash 😃
![144543]()
My 2015 classic developed this exact issue not long after I bought it (a couple of months ago now). Before I found this post I had stopped by BMW in York (North England) to have them diagnose the problem, "no idea mate" was all I got!
I found this post, looked at my bike, found the pinching (see photo) and got the bike booked in with the dealer who fixed it under warranty. Same solution: add some length to the existing wires and let it hang a little so it no longer gets pulled in left lock.
Now fixed, I've had no repeat of a dodgy dash 😃
101 - 120 of 137 Posts
