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2 years after the repair, I had the same issue yesterday. Now I have opened the wiring loom myself. 1 repaired cable was broken again and 2 others were also almost broken. I have restored everything myself now. You do better yourself.

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These photos totally saved me and gave me confidence to cut/fix myself.

NJ Dealership wanted over 100$ for failed warranty work.

  1. Unclip wire holder ,front of tank
  2. remove screws from back of cluster
  3. disconnect wire harness
  4. unwrap black tape
  5. found black wire was fixed originally via warranty, years ago
  6. and now red wire was cut
  7. added 1-2 inch extra red wire to avoid any strain when turning full lock to left
  8. crimp/heat shrink tubed
  9. wrap black tape
  10. another wrap of electrical tape or similar
  11. put everything back

OEM wires are enough length for right turns but left turns sucks! Eventually will snap since it's not long enough.

Thank you dxamet!
 
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Now it's failing again and also the ABS light comes on, is that related?

My instruments died completely after some strange behaviour and it was due to a wire breaking apart (green/white). I've now repaired it and wrapped the weak part in self-amalgamating tape so hopefully it will be OK for a while.
 

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Now it's failing again and also the ABS light comes on, is that related?
Yep Pettefar, everything that happens with the stock instrument cluster goes thru the wires.
You may have fixed one but another beneath the insulation can have broken strands that eventually snap. Go through every one … check for weak spots. Repair and wrap, there are plenty examples on this thread to show you how. One of the best ideas I’ve seen was to insert a wire tie lengthwise inside the insulation, (see Dirtmerchant, page 6) shrink tube works good for that then the wire tie offers some reinforcement and spreads out the torque being placed on the harness. It takes some time and some focus but when done correctly should last a long long time. Good luck my friend … it’s tedious work but you can do ….. Blitz
 

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I’ll have a look at it all now. I actually hadn’t spotted the console plug! I’ll pull it out and hopefully it will give me some work room. I used to be an electronics technician so I have no excuse to do a bad job.

I actually went to my dealer here near Dublin, Ireland and asked them about getting it repaired by BMW and they almost laughed at me…


Yep Pettefar, everything that happens with the stock instrument cluster goes thru the wires.
You may have fixed one but another beneath the insulation can have broken strands that eventually snap. Go through every one … check for weak spots. Repair and wrap, there are plenty examples on this thread to show you how. One of the best ideas I’ve seen was to insert a wire tie lengthwise inside the insulation, (see Dirtmerchant, page 6) shrink tube works good for that then the wire tie offers some reinforcement and spreads out the torque being placed on the harness. It takes some time and some focus but when done correctly should last a long long time. Good luck my friend … it’s tedious work but you can do ….. Blitz
 

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I’ll have a look at it all now. I actually hadn’t spotted the console plug! I’ll pull it out and hopefully it will give me some work room. I used to be an electronics technician so I have no excuse to do a bad job.

I actually went to my dealer here near Dublin, Ireland and asked them about getting it replied by BMW and they almost laughed at me…
Me too Rusty, I worked for Sharp Electronics for a couple of years so we can talk shop. There is so little room to do anything in that space, I soldered very short extensions on the wires I found broken so I didn’t have to shorten them even more and then used shrink tube to insulate. I was done already when I discovered a brilliant idea by one of the forum member. Instead of just short pieces of shrink tube this mate used as long a piece as he could fit down the wire, then he clipped the ratchet end off a nylon wire tie and slipped it down the shrink tube before shrinking it. After shrinking it, it helps protect the wire from sharp kinking and spreads out the torque from bending across the whole wire instead of a small space.. that’s brilliant and when I have to repair mine again (and I will) I’m going to do mine .. every wire in the loom exactly the same way. Very creative thinking on his part. If you read the thread you’ll see his entry. Very smart, he will likely not have that problem again. GoodOnHim.
The only trick I came up with was using two small alligator clips attached to a three or four inch piece of solid copper wire I bent into a U shape to hold the wires together while I soldered them so I wouldn’t burn my fingers … that worked well too in that confined space. Get out your soldering gun and have at it Rusty .. BeWell, HaveFun, StayUpOn2 Mate ……Blitz
 
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I just had this happen with my 2015 today. I will dig in and start repairing cables but the issue I am most worried about is the needle placement. While the ECU was clipping on\off few times with the bike running now the speedo and tach rest a bit off (at about 3k rpm and 5 mph). It preformed the needle rise start sequence more than once not from true 0. Should this hopefully return to normal after the wiring is fixed? Or is there a way to release and reset them?

thanks much
 

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... Should this hopefully return to normal after the wiring is fixed? Or is there a way to release and reset them?

thanks much
[/QUOTE]
I had a similar issue. In my case they corrected themselves after fix. Goodluck
 

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... Should this hopefully return to normal after the wiring is fixed? Or is there a way to release and reset them?

thanks much
I had a similar issue. In my case they corrected themselves after fix. Goodluck
thanks. it actually did !

thought I would share what wire went on mine. Brown is the culprit


Bicycle tire Automotive tire Hood Motor vehicle Alloy wheel
Automotive tire Fluid Finger Gas Thumb
Hood Automotive tire Automotive lighting Electrical wiring Motor vehicle
 

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Just measured the corrugated tubing. It's not the BMW OEM part 12 51 7 803 874. The tubing used is more than 130mm in length that this BMW OEM wiring repair tube is. The one my dealer used is closer to 300mm+ in length.

I've got one more day before BMW Motorrad Australia are supposed to get back to me on this issue. Hopefully, they deliver.

Still wondering whether a BMW Service Bulletin went out regarding this issue and that a proper solution is available.
Hi, any reply from BMW Australia regarding this issue? Mine started showing the same problem
 
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