BMW NineT Forum banner

Instrument Cluster and Headlamp wiring loom failure

55K views 151 replies 58 participants last post by  jnymdnyt 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
This happened last week to my ninet, wire break.
14000 km. Tomorrow I go to the dealer.
 

Attachments

See less See more
1
#76 ·
No offence intended but I think you are overreacting a little. I get that you are very understandably pissed at the dealer and the fact that the bike has faulted so soon after you bought it... However this is one fault, and a fault that has been well documented on this forum and that is recognised by BMW as an issue.

Dealers know about this issue and should be prepared to put right this issue at no charge to the customer. There is an official BMW fix involving new flexible sleeving and this has mostly turned out to be successful if anecdotal experience on this forum is anything to go by.

I suggest you tear a strip off the dealer and demand they fix the issue, if they don't, take the issue to BMW. I'm not sure if your 2015 bike is still under factory warranty (expect not) but this is a known problem and I expect you bought the bike with some form of dealer warranty? Either way the dealer and BMW has some form of responsibility to work with you to get the issue fixed.

These bikes are largely very reliable and I expect this might be the only issue you might have with it. Don't diss a bike and consign it to eternal purgatory on the strength of one easily fixable issue that has been recognised by BMW and can be resolved with a factory approved fix.

Simply my 2C....
 
#77 ·
My instruments died completely after some strange behaviour and it was due to a wire breaking apart (green/white). I've now repaired it and wrapped the weak part in self-amalgamating tape so hopefully it will be OK for a while.
 
#78 · (Edited)
At 16,100kms, my 2015 R nineT had the 'EWS' warning light come on accompanied by the battery and fuel warning lights. Turn indicator, gear indicator, odometer, tacho were also non-functional. The bike, however, was ridable. In the end, it had nothing to do with a defective key/ electronic immobiliser - the troubleshooting solution offered in the rider's manual (08.2015, 3rd edition, 01 - page 26).

Upon inspection, a broken white wire in the instrument cluster wiring harness was the issue. The original protective sleeve was otherwise intact yet had a kink in it. I had raised the issue of the harness wires kinking with my dealer previously but nothing was done about it other than the cursory visual inspection. The dealer fixed the wire (not the harness) on this occasion and placed corrugated tubing similar to the BMW OEM part 12 51 7 803 874 over the wires then wrapped it all with black electrical tape.

The technician showed me the BMW OEM tool he used to repair the wire (part 83 30 0 496 833). Interestingly this is called 'Special Tool for Wiring Harness Repair' on the MAX BMW Motorcycles website.

Cost was free of charge. Bike is outside the warranty period.

The repair looks rudimentary in my opinion and unlike other repair attempts pictured in this forum post (which look halfway decent), the re-rerouting of the wire/tube appears too long in this instance (see pic)

Auto part Engine Vehicle Metal Wheel


As you can see, the wire/tubing is too long and now rubs against the BMW emblem badge - just like it did on the old BMW Classics (R51/2, R51/3 etc.).
I've contacted BMW Motorrad Australia to determine whether any official recalls have been announced, pending or if any official workshop reworks are available.

I'd like to have it fixed and looking more professional and without the rubbing issues.

A quick check on the BMW Motorrad Australia Recall website says there are no pending issues with K21 R nineT Z612441 vehicles.

I doubt very much BMW Motorrad will replace the looms on affected pre-2017 models as this would be a costly exercise. It seems they are well aware of the issue however.
It doesn't instil much confidence if this is likely to be an ongoing issue considering some members here have repaired these wires on more than one occasion.
 
#81 ·
The dealer fixed the wire (not the harness) on this occasion and placed corrugated tubing similar to the BMW OEM part 12 51 7 803 874 over the wires then wrapped it all with black electrical tape.
Just measured the corrugated tubing. It's not the BMW OEM part 12 51 7 803 874. The tubing used is more than 130mm in length that this BMW OEM wiring repair tube is. The one my dealer used is closer to 300mm+ in length.

I've got one more day before BMW Motorrad Australia are supposed to get back to me on this issue. Hopefully, they deliver.

Still wondering whether a BMW Service Bulletin went out regarding this issue and that a proper solution is available.
 
#79 ·
Where would they have pulled the extra loom length from to get that much slack?
Is there any way you could tighten the loom at one end?
 
#83 ·
Thank you, thank you, thank you to everyone contributing to this thread. super helpful.

I was shocked riding home today when my dials went completely dead. the bike was still running, headlight and tail light still working. just my dash decided to take a nap. The on-off problem with my dials started happening this last month along with the ews warning. I had initially thought it was a battery issue as similar issues were reported with phantom dials in a different thread, a new battery fixed the issue. But my bike hadn't been struggling to start and the battery warning light hasn't come on either. The on-off dials started happening more frequently until finally today it went off for an extended period. checked the wiring when i got home, even went as far as lifting the tank and following the route of the cables when i found the kink. Happy i found the problem. Sad i hadn't found it by searching for it on here a little more first. could have saved myself some time and tears.

Did my repair before reading this thread. added some self adhering rubber tape around the cables to prevent them from kinking. stopped the kink but i slipped it back into the plastic clip keeping it against the frame making it a bit tight when i turn my wheel all the way to the left. close to left lock the dials go dead. :cry: was hoping to avoid repairing the actual wire. But after reading this thread i feel fairly confident i can fix it without exploding the dials. will address this soon. Thanks again!
 
#85 ·
thankfully its an easy fix. it seems like one or two of the wires inside your loom has broken. in which case they would have to be repaired. I discovered all the wires in mine had broken at the kink. Took my time and repaired each wire. Also removed the cable tie at the steering neck to give the wire some slack. all good so far
 
#86 ·
Electrical Issue with my 2016's Dash

Hello everyone. Maybe you can help me figure out an electrical issue I am having with my 2016 9T. Each time I start it up and even while riding, the entire dash shuts off/goes blank, and kind of goes back through the start-up sequence. this doesnt affect the engine as the engine continues running without any hitch or hesitation. The problem seems to just be something affecting the dash. I feel it may be either the battery is at a point it needs replacing (bike only has 8300 miles on it) or there is a loose wire somewhere but I figured to ask you fine folks before I start digging around or running off to the dealer to spend $$$$ in case some of you had a similar situation. Any comments or advise?
 
#87 ·
This, unfortunately, keeps coming up on these bikes. Some of the wiring, usually around the steering head, is failing from being flexed and stretched so many times.

Dealerships appear to be familiar with the failure and able to repair it quickly (affordable).
 
#89 ·
@Tyyson I have moved your post to this existing thread on this very topic.
Please have a read back through the earlier discussions for some trouble-shooting ideas. (y)
 
#90 ·
Hi. New here. Enjoying being part of a community of 9t lovers.

Quick question, should someone be able to help.

My gauge cluster went funky.
Checked and found the clip attached to the gauge wire had come off.
Attaching the clip to the gauge housing and moving the wheel fixed the issue.
Moving the wire alone didn't correct it, couldn't ID point of failure.
Found wire cover is split slightly at one point. Don't think enough for wire to be damaged.
Wondering if something had come loose, that can easily be reattached, or if
clip is a ground or something that needs to have a specific position on the housing (reaching, not knowing...) or if
wire needs replacing (read dealer will probably resolve it, but hoping to on own, can't wait out covid)

Any help is much appreciated.
Cheers
 
#97 ·
@will55
The first repair was done under warranty, 2 wires repaired with a kind of hard repair tube. This was broken again after a few years. Then I cut and extended all the wires myself. Well tied and with heat shrink tubing, not soldered. Soldering is possible, but with moving wires it is possible that it breaks again at that place.
 
#98 · (Edited)
@will55
The first repair was done under warranty, 2 wires repaired with a kind of hard repair tube. This was broken again after a few years. Then I cut and extended all the wires myself. Well tied and with heat shrink tubing, not soldered. Soldering is possible, but with moving wires it is possible that it breaks again at that place.
For the final wrapping material, that goes around the wire bundle, do you have an opinion on what you chose (??) vs. wiring harness tape or the flexible tubing later R9Ts are now using, or was it just available and seemed good for the job?

And thank you for the tip on the soldering, it was my plan. Saved me a lot of time and hassle!
 
#106 ·
I wouldn't add any wire into the splice. That looks like the CANBus wire. Remove some of the insulation from both sides, crimp on a bare metal crimper, then cover with heat shrink and wrap with fabric tape. A piece of that slinky cover you posted would be a great addition on top of all that. Here's what the crimp from an OEM BMW wire repair kit looks like. I'm local in GTA as well if you want moral support.

140422
 
#107 ·
I wouldn't add any wire into the splice. That looks like the CANBus wire. Remove some of the insulation from both sides, crimp on a bare metal crimper, then cover with heat shrink and wrap with fabric tape. A piece of that slinky cover you posted would be a great addition on top of all that. Here's what the crimp from an OEM BMW wire repair kit looks like. I'm local in GTA as well if you want moral support.

View attachment 140422
Thanks Gaprunr
 
#108 ·
Hey guys and gals,

Riding a 2018 R Nine T, the left side dial [speedometer] is not working properly.

When the handlebars are turned to the left the speedometer dial is on and working fine, however, as soon as I turn the handlebar the left dial only [the one with the speedometer] switches off.

All connections look normal and undamaged.

Anyone got any ideas as to what cables I should be looking at?

Thought I’d try here before taking it in.

A huge thanks

Mus
 
#110 ·
Hey guys and gals,

Riding a 2018 R Nine T, the left side dial [speedometer] is not working properly.

When the handlebars are turned to the left the speedometer dial is on and working fine, however, as soon as I turn the handlebar the left dial only [the one with the speedometer] switches off.

All connections look normal and undamaged.

Anyone got any ideas as to what cables I should be looking at?

Thought I’d try here before taking it in.

A huge thanks

Mus
Hey mate,

it could be the wiring loom has damage where it passes around the headstock area, it was a known issue - especially on older (pre 2016) bikes but could I guess still happen on later ones even though a fix of sorts was applied. I've moved your post to the thread concerned, please have a read through. However your bike is covered under warranty I expect, so I'd let the dealer worry about this, not you.
 
#112 ·
Everyone Is Going To Deal With This One ! (Merged)

Have you noticed the wiring to your instrument cluster (the Clocks) ....
When it leaves the main body of the bike it crosses over to link up with the triple tree and the instrument package which means it gets bent back and forth every time you turn the handle bars. Eventually it’s gotta give ... get ready because everyone is going to have this problem eventually.
This one should go on everyone’s list of “to-do” something to check as regular maintenance.
My instruments went dead while out riding, Here’s what I found ........
If you’re having any electrical issues involving anything on your handle bars, start/stop, horn, bright light switch, turn signals, heated grips ..... anything on the handlebars be sure and check this first before dismantling any of the switches or handlebar controls. Could save you some time and probably a new switch too when you can’t get the original switch back together...
143198


That’s the wire cluster to my instruments .... here’s another view .....
143199


I stripped the cover back and found two wires were completely broken
143200


I stripped the leads back but I didn’t want to make them shorter by just twisting them together so I added a tiny piece of wire to solder them back together at the same original length ...
143201


I used a short piece of strand copper wire to wrap both wires together then solder. This can be tricky trying to hold them together and solder, they get hot, so I built a tool from two alligator clips to hold them for me then I can use both hands to solder it with out touching either wire .... works well.
Don’t forget to put your shrink tube on first before you twist them together or solder ......
143202


...once they are soldered slide your shrink tube over the soldered connection and heat .... remember and DO NOT use your lighter to heat the tube, you are inches from your gas tank, use a hot air gun or designated air heater like mine. Made just for shrink tubing.
143203


I then wrapped the cluster of wires with good 3M brand 33+ tape. I would have preferred to put them in a larger piece of shrink tube but I don’t have the proper pin tool to remove the plug and allow me to slip it through some shrink tube so I did the second best thing, I used good tape wrapped three times and then put it in a plastic protector tube that’s has a slit down the center ....
it’s the black ribbed tube in the pict.... Let’s hope it’s good for five more years ........... Blitz
143204
 
Top