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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Final photos before I stopped for a break. What a frustration from trying to cheat having to open the bike in half to pull the airbox. It’s so close to being able to slide out as is. It’s loose and ready to come out but it’s got enough lip on the rear side and the left hand stub tube causing it not to come out without a full split. Final swing arm bolt should be all it needs to free the airbox and crack the bike in half enough.
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
Lyndon poskitt racing order came in!

I forgot I talked to Evan at solid performance this morning to talk about the rear shock and What we could do. I’ve been stoked with their service! Waiting for a day or so for more detailed breakdown.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
I don’t see the sense in doing that especially since the work to get to the point of taking it out vs smashing it out isn’t much different in my opinion. It’s very very easy. Takes time. But the work isn’t hard. Furthermore, I don’t see the sense in breaking a perfectly good part. It’s a sense of pride too.

I’ve been thinking of a paint scheme like this for months or a year now with a brooklands green or Irish racing green frame. Most BRG is too dark in my opinion for what I feel is the “correct shade” I also want to do accent pieces like the headlight bezel in brass. I used to follow trends in the car world extensively and loved when classics started to try other coats than matte black or chrome. It really gives a great look. It needs to be mild touches and not overly done. I’m not sure what other trim pieces should be color wise I think a mild silver type tone. Not silver specifically but something dullish with a semi gloss or satin.

Kind of Harley show scene paint job.
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
Airbox removed without hacking. Later today or tomorrow I will start to rebuild the bike hand tight for everything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·

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That is one torn up Rninet haha! Any time I see a bike like that, I'm amazed that someone can put it back together. I know you can though - I have faith! Cool ideas for paint. This is going to be a unique bike for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
Well I put most bolts back in their threads or in patterns on the ground out of habit. If I don’t remember something or something looks weird I have photos on here for reference and the manual with decent diagrams. I assume if I work without breaks it will take me a few hours to assemble. It’s really really easy. I’m not going to worry about regreasing or tightening to torque specs because I’m going to pull it apart again but just so everything is in its place and doesn’t get lost.

Well I was ASE certified and went to school for it. (Not motorcycles though)
 
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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
Pulled the abs unit and brake lines. Pulled out a few wires associated w the abs and bolted the rear subframe and crash bars back on. I think I did one or two other things but forgot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
Looks pretty empty without the airbox
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
I purchased some fuel line to route the tank vents down deleting the charcoal canister. I purchased some clamps to use an easier system for the intake boots. I didn’t hear back from 2 bmw dealers I emailed. But heard back about the forks from solid performance and got a quote. I’m now looking into getting an hp2 swim arm and related components to run long travel suspension in the rear (9.8 inches)
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
Most everything I will be keeping installed on the bike
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
Took the driveshaft to a shop to get lengthened 2 inches. They are unsure if they are able to do it because of not having tooling but I dropped the shaft off to them. I have been spending money fixing the rebel up with several hundred to get it up to my level of service so my time and finances have been split between the two. I made a $500 down payment to get the forks done up with Kashima coating uppers and dlc lowers and getting them built out to spec but it fell through. I will be looking locally to get them done. Also will be going back to dr. John’s to see about cutting the swingarm and lengthening that 2 inches to match the new driveshaft length. I should be able to run 10.6 inches of travel in the rear with the extra length and keep the u joints happy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
Looking at part numbers the r1200gs r1200gsa and pure all have the same driveshaft. The hp2 is 1.2 inches longer than this. Called a local bmw dealer to confirm. Called dr John’s and they said they have a 5 week back log of work and won’t be able to do anything until at least then. So it’s going to be a wait to make progress on chopping the swingarm up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
Does anyone have access to a ktm rally peg to measure foot pegs?
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
I made an advrider account thanks to the advice of a member on here to see about shops that could lengthen the driveshaft and within literally seconds I was referred to 2 different places on the west coast that might be able to do the work. I will call tomorrow and update on progress. Thank you to that member for the referral. I had my doubts and really didn’t expect such a fast reply!!!
 
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Discussion Starter · #58 · (Edited)
Fender finally just came in a few minutes ago. Test fit and it rubs pretty well on the oil cooler.
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
I lent $3,000 that I had saved for the bike to a friend whose cat swallowed a stomach and small intestines full of hair ties and needed immediate surgery to live. That was a few months back. Since then I’ve ordered several small things that I wanted. Here are some pictures of what I purchased.

-barkbuster mounts to tie in the inside of the hand guards to the handlebar.
-Doubletake adventure mirrors
-stout mount to hold my garmin 680t
-I bought different bolt sizes that what came in the kit and extra bolts because I will be mounting the speedometer from the stout mount underside
-a garmin cradle to keep battery power to the device from the bike
-different grips (purely for aesthetic reasons) (thanks to gristle and others on the forum for a walkthrough on how to remove the old grips for this bike)
-1 uni filter 21/2” opening 6” length (they only had one in stock at the time of ordering) (I plan to build a custom airbox for the (2) filters with bead rolling and will need to buy more tools like a brake shear and bead roller to accomplish this)
-ktm rally footpegs + pins springs and other mounting hardware
-the bottom portion of the handlebar clamp and bolts because the bmw stock clamps do not work with the stout mount.

I’m still waiting on some of the things to be delivered.
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
I spent several hours using a file to grind down the headlight mounting bracket so the headlight and fender could bolt up at the same time.
 

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