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Luis' 2018 Roadster

26765 Views 100 Replies 20 Participants Last post by  laalves
So I got mine in Feb 2018 with 1 km on the odo after waiting from Oct 2017 when I placed my order:

Specc'ed it with ASC, heated grips and alarm, so basic stuff.

She looked like this:

Just like all others….

Then I bought the single seater stuff, including a flat aluminium hump:

Next stage was Rizoma: black Eccentrico mirrors, black front Club indicators and rear black Club S indicators/lights, PT706B plate holder, right chassis plug. A bit of Wünderlich, with the stand extender and spikes and front fork and paralever sliders and a bit of BMW with black valve covers and matching black plastic protectors.

In the mean time I also got the BMW soft black side bags that I use to go shopping for groceries as well as BMW radiator cowlings in brushed aluminium.

Last week I painted the hump, snorkel cover, throttle body cover and ignition cover in black storm metallic from RS Motorbike Paints.

Today a lovely package showed up and inside there were a BMW machined handlebar clamp, BMW brushed aluminium side covers and the lovely BMW adjustable footrests as well as the rear footrests for when my son is riding pillion..

I started with the handlebar cover, and used tie-wraps to secure the handlebar before I removed it:

Love it, it’s in plain sight while riding. I disguised the heinous “By Roland Sands Design” with 3M black tape. Might end up painting altogether. I would get more of these parts if it wasn’t for that intrusive branding. The belt cover looks great but that stupid branding…. I would never buy, as it can’t be disguised.

Then the footrests. First remove the original ones:

In plain sight, the Rizoma plug. Can’t understand why BMW put in a plastic cover on the left and then left the bolts visible on the right. And the hole itself, looks as if it’s half painted only. Ridiculous.
Apply a new footrest:

Removing the pins that hold the microswitch to the old footrest was a pain. Had I known, I would have bought a new microswitch. Again, the instructions are ridiculous: they say to “remove the pins using an appropriate tool”, yeah right. That’s impossible, I had to surgically drill their heads to then slide the microswitch through the beheaded pins.
The other side:

In both photos, they are already set to my taste: full down (cramps…) and slightly back to stay away from my trousers when I put my feet down on traffic lights.
And in compliance with Euro4, they fold!:

Then for the brushed side covers. The rear holders come in a really weird colour, more or less white. Another stupid design choice so I painted them black storm metallic but didn’t apply clear coat, left it satin as it is a great match for the frame:

Hardware is ready:

In this photo all the bits have the per instructions thick protective tape. I had to remove that tape from the front brackets otherwise they wouldn’t fit in the frame. I don’t think they actually test run these instructions…
And here is the left, easiest one:

The front brackets disappear under the hose but the rear ones are very visible, particularly if left in their original, whitish weird colour. Like this, in black, they’re passable.

On the right, that was another story, and again it seems the parts are made for another bike: the outer (visible) rear bracket would not fir, because there is a solder seam right where it would go.
So, some cutting was required:

The weird thing in the forefront is a vacuum cleaner tube to suck the shavings.

End product:

Tomorrow I’ll try to do some under the sun shots and will post them here.

Next mod: Puig chassis plugs to hide and protect some of the recessed bolt heads. I will apply a layer of vaseline before I plug them for extra corrosion protection.

Then I’m considering the BMW brake and clutch machined levers and the single Akra. Let’s see….
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This just in:


Öhlins FKS505 at an excellent discount, plus springs and oil. Tools were here waiting for quite sometime.

Plan on doing a DIY on them, using the tools from the British ebay seller that I believe is well known already. Good thing I got them before Brexit, a friend of mine is waiting for a package to come from the UK and it has returned to base 3 times already due to paperwork issues.
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And there she is, looking sad. The right side fork is done and is perfect, no leaks. The left one, I botched it, unfortunately, by having the lower tube slip from my oily gloves and come out of the outer tube. Trying to put it back, I ruined the seal and despite having assembled the fork, it will have to be disassembled again to replace the seals. I've ordered them, together with the seal installation tools.

It will be a few days without a bike but it's raining outside everyday and there's a lockdown in place as well, I'm not missing many riding opportunities.


On the left side, I started to disassemble the front tire to go tubeless using 3M 4211N tape and/or Sika Marine seal, I have both on hand and will evaluate what I will do.

I once had a fall with my XT350 because of the front tube deflating suddenly whilst on a right turn. I slid to the opposite side of the road and nearly got killed by oncoming traffic, but in the end I was unscathed. Having tubes in this bike is something that always had me worry in the back of my head so will try this. However, the tire levers kit I got from Amazon came with a joke of rim protectors that protect nothing, so I stopped my effort and am waiting on the well reviewed Motion Pro ones.

So, a rather frustrating sequence of work, which has resulted in motorcycling pause :(

Hopefully, in a week's time, all be well again.
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So, after a work trip to Dubai, I landed and went for the parts and tools to replace the left fork seal.

The BMW tools are expensive but are really good and beautifully made. They worked very well and simple to use. The seal kit is too expensive for what it is but well, it was my fault that I messed it up.

Looking back at the process to install seals, I'm convinced that if I had reinserted the lower tube wrapped in plastic and being extremely careful, I might have not destroyed the seal.


Above is the lower tube all setup with tools and the components of the seal kit to go into the upper tube.

I also took the front wheel out to balance after I converted it to tubeless.

Finally, she is back in one piece:


And these were the special tools I used for the fork cartridges installation and for the fork seal replacement:


The three on top are from an ebay Brit seller who makes them (Öhlins tools replicas) Worked very well.

The topmost one is a holder for the 58mm forks of our bikes (he made it for me), the black tube is to hold the cartridge in place whilst torquing the lower bolt and the cadmium coloured tube is the piston puller.

The black tube halves are the BMW tools for the fork seal.
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Went for a short test ride today, it wasn't raining but I had to ride only in back roads nearby to avoid any lockdown checkpoints :(

I haven't tuned the front suspension yet, just the basic settings from the Öhlins manual for 90kgs rider (8 turns for spring pre-load + 12 clicks both for rebound and compression, no sag checks) but I'm impressed already, no diving under braking, it's really much more composed and also feels much more compliant, instead of the constant kicks on the hands it's sort of plush. Very happy, tomorrow I'll measure sag and coordinate the tuning between front and back Öhlins using their iPhone app.
So, just for a few small add ons:

New rear brake reservoir (just for looks)


Under engine protective plate



Adds a bit of weight but it's in the right place and gives me a bit of peace of mind, as the lower engine fins had already some chip marks and I didn't like that. This one is quite unobtrusive, almost invisible but it's still there doing its protective job. When the oil change comes, it'll be another 4 screws to remove - unless I end up modifying it with a nice round hole!

These are both Kedo products. The reservoir is actually a generic TRW but with a Kedo-made bracket and comes with new tube and hose screw-on clamps but I ended up reusing the original tube and I also used a Oetiker clamp, like the OEM ones.
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Been looking for that Eoswing upper fork over for some time now but that "company" seems to have vanished. The website doesn't exist & the only place I can tell they might have a social media presence is Facebook (maybe a market there??) but I don't do FB so doesn't help. I've also checked at the usuals (auction, A-Xpress, etc) and nothing. I've seen some knockoffs but nothing as quality-looking as these. Anyone have any resources for them?
Been looking for that Eoswing upper fork over for some time now but that "company" seems to have vanished. The website doesn't exist & the only place I can tell they might have a social media presence is Facebook (maybe a market there??) but I don't do FB so doesn't help. I've also checked at the usuals (auction, A-Xpress, etc) and nothing. I've seen some knockoffs but nothing as quality-looking as these. Anyone have any resources for them?
Had a quick look and they're not on ebay at the moment it seems. Maybe on vacation... It would be a shame if they disappeared as they do make some very good stuff.
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Minor update: went back to the original cans as the retro look ended up growing back on me and after installing, noticed I like the sound better. Additionally, put on new rubber, the rear was close to giving up the ghost and decided to change both to Michelin Power 5s. My second and subsequent fitments in my cars and bikes is always Michelin. And nothing beats new rubber on a bike to make me smile on a ride....😁😁😁😁

On a side note, back in October, I introduced my then 17-year old son to riding with a Honda CB125F that came with cheap, non-grippy and square-profiled CST tyres. I changed this week to Metzeler Roadtec 01 (couldn't get Michelins for the size needed) and I can't believe how they transformed the little bike. It now corners like a proper bike as the round profile of the Metzelers make it so easy and smooth to lean. The CSTs have an almost square profile, can't understand why.

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Another small update:

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Bought a 2021 version USB power supply and a pre-made 20cm cable with two plugs from a French fellow in ebay to connect to the GPS plug and to the USB thingy. Then fabricated a steel plate to attach to the back of the existing tongue for the DIN plug. Had to exchange positions because the USB is very long in the back, no room for it.

Now I can charge my phone while in my pocket on longer trips listening to Waze prompts.
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And another update, Ilmberger bits I got for about half-price, starter cover and carbon canister holder:

Automotive fuel system Fuel tank Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design

These were the first Ilmberger bits I've seen and am not overly impressed: the carbon pattern in the starter cover is not aligned with the lines of the part, there was demoulding grease all over the parts (i.e., no cleaning before shipping) and the parts do not copy the shapes the way they should: the starter cover does not have a clip the original has so I had to compensate by installing some rubber tape inside to keep it under pressure and prevent it from vibrating; the canister holder is missing one of the holes to pass through the upper ziptie.

I have the Ilmberger front headlight fairing on order and am thus a bit concerned...

I'm going to send Ilmberger my comments to see what they say.
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So finall I managed to get the Ilmberger front headlight fairing. Getting it here was a nightmare.

I ordered it early May with an estimated delivery date of 15 July, in time for my summer trips, to the Algarve, 350km each way and Madrid, 660 km each. The idea was to have some aerodynamic protection as well as to experiment with the looks.

It ended up getting here only on mid August in between those 2 trips but, incredibly, it arrived without any tabs. I was in disbelief. Ilmberger support was to reply and asked to return it directly to Germany and paid for the courier. It did take more than a month to have it back, finally complete. Other issues included missing windshield nuts and bolts and incorrectly sized bushings. Those have yet to be addressed by Ilmberger and by now they seem to have lost interest. I ended up sourcing BMW nuts and bolts for the windshield.

I'm not at all happy with Ilmberger or with their quality control.

The windshield that comes with the kit is now an MRA one; it used to be the Racer's which I preferred so I got one from ebay for 35€, great deal.

Due to my clipons configuration, I was unable to use the support arms to install the fairing, but I was able to use the lower front support and fabricated another support to hold on to the front upper tabs that were actually unused in the standard installation configuration.

Here's photos:

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Fabricating the support out of two aluminium channel bits.

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A dry run

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Freshly sprayed in black

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Bracket in place

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New cockpit

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A few more photos:

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Wheel Tire Fuel tank Automotive fuel system Vehicle

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Vehicle Tire Fuel tank Automotive lighting Automotive tire

I'm very, very happy with the looks. I'm mulling wrapping it in black with maybe a central silver 2-inch stripe.

I've already tested it and not a single shake or hint of vibration up to 140km/h which honestly surprised me but it's an excellent surprise. The wind pressure on the chest disappeared but it's still full on the helmet.

The only downside is that wind noise inside the helmet has increased at high speed. The MRA windshield that came with the fairing is way taller in the middle, it might be better for higher speeds but looks-wise, I'm stunned, love the final result.
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And today, all the bits and pieces arrived to install a Quadlock system. Decided to install the Stem version with the damping system and wireless charger and I think it was a good choice. I would prefer for a lower mount but it’s acceptable. I’m thinking about a solution to modify the mount to have it lower and still use the two important elements: the wireless charger with the Quadlock system and the vibration damper.

I had previously installed another very nice solution from a french guy on ebay but it was rigid and I have just bought an iPhone 14 Pro and after reading here in the forum all the horror stories of broken cameras, I went for this solution.

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And another incremental mod in a rainy day: I decided to get rid of the last bit of visible black plastic trim I had in the bike which was the front portion of the snorkel.

I used 3M 1080 Metallic Black vinyl which is close to the Black Storm colour. It is a test run to cover the new front carbon fairing at a later date, possibly in December after an upcoming 2-week business trip.

I didn’t smooth out the plastic so its texture comes through the vinyl, but I‘m happy with the result even so. Applying the vinyl took me about 30 min and it was my first experience. I used a heat gun, a small plastic spatula for the recesses and finger pressure.

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Good looking bike. I really like the way the windscreen lays over the controls from the cockpit. Sharp.
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And after my first wrap experience with the front intake piece, I went for the wrap of the Ilmberger fairing last night.

Here's a few pics.

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Looks horrible halfway through the process....

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This was the tool that made it possible.

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I'm stunned at this material that I never used before. 3M 1080 metallic black. It is absolutely amazing how much it forgives and how compliant it is and the end result is like paint. Truly amazing.

I'm a bit wary of the edges, so I've just ordered a can of 3M 2950 Edge Sealer.

In the mean time, I also replaced the LSL clipons I had with the BMW original ones (made by Gilles). Got them for a decent price off Boonstraparts (now called

They're lower set than the LSLs but now allowed to install the reinforcing brackets of the Ilmberger fairing.

BTW, final verdict on Ilmberger carbon parts: DO NOT buy any of those unless you are willing to put up with horrible QC, extremely variable quality parts (hit and miss), incomplete and partially unusable hardware. Very expensive and very disappoint.

To install this fairing, I waited for 5 months to get it, then it came without mounting tabs (how is it even possible to send out a 600€ fairing out without noticing this?), sent it back to have it completed by them, waited for another 1.5 months (to have the tabs glued, guess it went back to China). The adapter kit is almost useless. The bushings are the wrong size, there's no nuts (that are needed), missing screws, the screws are terribly ugly and the windshield comes without nuts to mount it. Never again, a lot of work and money spent on hardware to make it fit, including reworking the holes to mount the windshield.

After all the work, the result is great.
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One further detail, to adapt the Rizoma Eccentrico mirrors to the BMW/Gilles tubes of the BMW clipon kit that have a inner thread of M18x1.5mm, I took a few measures and drafted an adapter which I took to a workshop nearby. The end result was:

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Below, already with the Wunderlich bar end weights, installed with the original BMW bolt.
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The Gilles tubes are 25mm too short, so they need extensions and the kit comes with its own bar end plugs that do no allow for bar end mirrors.
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A few more pics. Wasn’t able to get it outside to take pictures or ride it as it’s raining like crazy, flashflooding even nearby but not dangerous to my neighbourhood.

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After adding a dashcam to my car, I now added a Viofo MT1 to the nineT.

Front camera:
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Rear camera:
Automotive design Helmet Automotive tire Motor vehicle Fender

I used the bracket I fabricated to support the fairing to affix the GPS antenna and the instrument bracket for the remote control.
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I've already went for a ride with it and the results are quite nice, image quality is good and license plates are readable at a good distance. It is also very nice to record the rides.

I also made this tool to prop up the fuel tank. Copied the idea from a youtube video of Pier City Customs.

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As I have raised or removed the tank quite a few times lately so this is quite useful as most of the stuff can be done with the tank raised instead of completely removed.
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I had a PM question about the tank prop tool, so I'm adding the answer here for anybody interested.

I made this out of a simple U channel aluminium bit I had lying around. I t will be probably better to make it out of a steel bar, a 15mm wide, 2mm thick bar will do just fine. From hole to hole, mine measures 330mm, and both holes are 8mm. The M8 bolts are ~7.6mm in diameter, so 8mm is fine.

I'm adding a few pics below:

Wood Metalworking hand tool Saw Tool Hand tool

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To install it, I do the usual stuff to clear up the tank raising, as per the BMW manual, including alleviating the M6x100mm pivot bolt, then alleviate both front tank M8 bolts, remove the one at the side I would like better access, and then hold the weight of the tank while I remove the opposite bolt, keeping the tool at arm's reach. Once the bolt removed, lift the tank (careful with the electric cable and fuel lines, don't strain them) and install the tool, starting at the top with the fixed bolt. Put on the washer and the nut, tighten loosely and install the OEM bolt at the bottom tool hole on the frame hole. Hand tighten that one and the nut at the top.

Done, plenty of room to work and less hassle to remove the tank. Taking out the drain tubes is an unnecessary pain for most jobs.

This will not allow you to remove the battery though, but for everything else - running cables for gadgets, access to ECU, ABS, access to alternator, etc, etc - this is more than enough.
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