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2016 R Nine T Classic
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559 Posts
Here is my conversion update so far:
On the brake side, you could manage to re-use the same OEM brake line without the adapter, however you must route the line in-between the front suspension.

133702


133703


This is with the banjo adapter installed, no need to re-route the line, it stays as OEM.
I opted for this route.
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133706
 

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299 Posts
Fyi, the banjo bolts on the R Nine T are all different from model to model. The angle degrees of benjo fitting bend on the Racer is the most extreme out of R Nine T. I had to change the line on the clutch side, the adapter alone was not enough. The brake side only need the adapter.
 

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Premium Member
2016 R Nine T Classic
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559 Posts
Yes you are right...The brake side only need the adapter.
The clutch side needs and extra 2.5 in length and that's with the adapter.
I would definitely need to change the clutch line.
 

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If the Racer came with same banjo fitting like the Classic, the adapter would work. But on the Racer, it's the banjo fitting. The angle of the bend is just too extreme, there's too much tention on the line when you turn the handlebar. Over time,
it's very likely for the line to snap at the benjo fitting point due to the tention. I changed the line with different banjo fitting just to be safe. Also on the Racer there's the fairing clearance you have to tackle with, you can only install the adapter at certain angle. This was a complicated process. Also the Magura HC3 clutch micro switch circuit is incompatable with the BMW circuitry. The clutch micro switch from Magura does not work properly with BMW wiring loom due to the Magura micro switch are 180 degrees out of phase. The issue with the switch is known and Magura supposedly have a solution. Magura did sent me another mico switch, but it's the same micro switch. End up removing the Magura micro switch and
installing a different banjo bolt with the micro switch instead.
 

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You only need to wire the clutch side micro switch, the brake side is activated by front brake ABS from pressure in the line. Try and see if you can purchase switch wiring adapter from BMW and solder the wires from the micro switch to switch adapter.
 

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2018 R Nine T Racer
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263 Posts
Anybody here know the exact length and angle of banjo bolts needed to make a new clutch and brake line which fit when installing the Magura hc1 on a racer ?


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2016 R Nine T Classic
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559 Posts
After using the MC brake for a couple of weeks now I do feel that the lever travel is short with more effort needed compared to OEM. The kit that I ordered came with 18mm bore size for the brake side.
I think I do need the smaller piston size 15mm. Anyone has used that size yet?
 

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After using the MC brake for a couple of weeks now I do feel that the lever travel is short with more effort needed compared to OEM. The kit that I ordered came with 18mm bore size for the brake side.
I think I do need the smaller piston size 15mm. Anyone has used that size yet?
I have the Magura HC3 15 mm brake HC3 master cylinder (part#2100297) on my bike right now. The lever travel is a little shorter than the OEM but the effort to actuated is much easier and softer. I love my current setup. No regret! The HC3 has 3 WAY LEVER RATIO. The hand activated master cylinder lever has a clever 3 way adjustable point of support (Piston diameter 15 mm = 14 to 16 mm). This mimics the effect of using a piston size 1 mm below and above the selected hydraulic ratio. Simply remove and reposition the lever support retaining bolt for a softer or harder pressure point. All 3 positions offer 90° full radial activation.
 

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2016 R Nine T Classic
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559 Posts
So your piston size is 15mm which make more sense.
I believe the 18mm is more track oriented.

I just ordered today #2100451, (which is the 15mm piston size & long lever).
Will report back once installed.
 

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You only need to wire the clutch side micro switch, the brake side is activated by front brake ABS from pressure in the line. Try and see if you can purchase switch wiring adapter from BMW and solder the wires from the micro switch to switch adapter.
Cool thanks man. Got my HC1s in today and came accross this loose in the box. Any idea what it could be
133973
 

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2018 R Nine T Racer
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263 Posts
The 15mm piston size for the brake side is perfect, I left my at the 15mm position.
Doesn’t this give a more spongie feel when braking ? Or is the 18mm just to hard ? I like a brake which has good feedback but don’t won’t it to be too soft


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Nope...the HC3 radial design gives better feedback vs axial..no spongy feeling, if anything it gives more direct brake feeling for improved control..I believe the stock OEM piston is also 15mm?? If you like it hard just stick to the OEM, no need to upgrade to Magura.
 

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2016 R Nine T Classic
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I installed the 15mm piston size MC brake and I like it more compared to 18mm.
I'll probably sell the 18mm that I have.

I am about to order a new brake/clutch line but wanted to ask fellow member who already changed the brake line:

-The brake line has 2 black sleeves which I think is there to protect the paint on the chassis and to protect the gold fork.
Any one of you ordered a brake line without these two sleeves?

-Spiegler has a clear coat on the line, wouldn't that be enough?
 

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2016 R Nine T Classic
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559 Posts
I am trying to see if I can buy the female connector of the clutch micro-switch.
Does anyone knows if a p/n exist?
I feel we need to cut it and solder it with the Magura clutch switch?


134980
 

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Premium Member
2016 R Nine T Classic
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559 Posts
Here is what I did for the micro switch.
I didn't want to cut the OEM plug from the harness so I hacked the female side which is the OEM microswitch.
There is a type of semi-hard WAX that you will need to remove.
Start with a pick and slowly remove whatever you can remove from the two holes.
Then you will need to pry and remove the switch itself.
The switch will break but who cares. All you need is the female connector.
Pry-Remove-Cut until you start to see the connector pins.
Dig around the two pins you need so you have enough metal for soldering.
Cut the surrounding enclosure that has a rectangular shape (you don't need it).
Remove the Micro Switch from Magura master cylinder.
Cut the two wires of Magura switch to the required length.
Solder them to the OEM female plug.
Don't forget to shrink tube each soldered wire.
At the very end you can put a very big shrink tube to cover everything but I used for electrical tape because I don't have a shrink tube that big.

This works very well if you want to save your original wire harness.
 

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2017 Pure
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2,073 Posts
Here is what I did for the micro switch.
I didn't want to cut the OEM plug from the harness so I hacked the female side which is the OEM microswitch.
There is a type of semi-hard WAX that you will need to remove.
Start with a pick and slowly remove whatever you can remove from the two holes.
Then you will need to pry and remove the switch itself.
The switch will break but who cares. All you need is the female connector.
Pry-Remove-Cut until you start to see the connector pins.
Dig around the two pins you need so you have enough metal for soldering.
Cut the surrounding enclosure that has a rectangular shape (you don't need it).
Remove the Micro Switch from Magura master cylinder.
Cut the two wires of Magura switch to the required length.
Solder them to the OEM female plug.
Don't forget to shrink tube each soldered wire.
At the very end you can put a very big shrink tube to cover everything but I used for electrical tape because I don't have a shrink tube that big.

This works very well if you want to save your original wire harness.

As usual, @Manyakus - brilliant detail.
 
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