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2016 R Nine T Classic
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559 Posts
Here is what I did for the Magura installation.
I ordered two new lines from Spiegler:

Clutch Side:
The clutch side was very easy.
The coating color is Clear.
Fittings are in Stainless Steel.
Length is 1320 mm.
Each fitting is the straight one (regular).

The part number is:
EL-1320-000-000
Clear/SS


Brake Side:
You need a 20 degree bend at the ABS side. A straight fitting will not work!
At the Master Cylinder side you can use a straight fitting.
You also need a grommet which holds the brake line at the steering column just behind the headlight.
The OEM brake line has 2 rubber sleeves to protect the paint of the chassis.
I ordered the brake line with two rubber sleeves but at the end I removed one (the side near the Master Cylinder).

The part number is:
EL-0730-002-000
260mm of Norprene start 80mm from 002
MR-250003 grommet 365mm from 002
Clear/SS


The position of the grommet was a little bit off but you can move it a bit if you put some soapy water.
I would also reduce the length of the Norprene since I did not know that they fix it with a shrink tube which add length.
In my case the grommet is on the shrink tube.

If I would replace the Brake line again I would add 5mm on total length and reduce length of Norprene by 10mm.

EL-0735-002-000
250mm of Norprene start 80mm from 002
MR-250003 grommet 365mm from 002
Clear/SS


Impression:
When I first installed the brake side it was the 18mm piston size.
I didn't like it at all.
The lever travel was shorter and the force needed to brake was higher compared to OEM.
I then bought another Master Cylinder, this time with 15mm piston size and it was SPOT ON!
Definitely worth the upgrade, no question about it.

As for the clutch side, some people state that shifting is easy. I can understand why.
And the best way to described is:
OEM MC clutch is like an ON-OFF light switch
Magura MC clutch is like a dimmer switch (it is more forgiving in my opinion).


I do recommend this upgrade and I am happy with my purchase!
 

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299 Posts
Here is what I did for the Magura installation.
I ordered two new lines from Spiegler:

Clutch Side:
The clutch side was very easy.
The coating color is Clear.
Fittings are in Stainless Steel.
Length is 1320 mm.
Each fitting is the straight one (regular).

The part number is:
EL-1320-000-000
Clear/SS


Brake Side:
You need a 20 degree bend at the ABS side. A straight fitting will not work!
At the Master Cylinder side you can use a straight fitting.
You also need a grommet which holds the brake line at the steering column just behind the headlight.
The OEM brake line has 2 rubber sleeves to protect the paint of the chassis.
I ordered the brake line with two rubber sleeves but at the end I removed one (the side near the Master Cylinder).

The part number is:
EL-0730-002-000
260mm of Norprene start 80mm from 002
MR-250003 grommet 365mm from 002
Clear/SS


The position of the grommet was a little bit off but you can move it a bit if you put some soapy water.
I would also reduce the length of the Norprene since I did not know that they fix it with a shrink tube which add length.
In my case the grommet is on the shrink tube.

If I would replace the Brake line again I would add 5mm on total length and reduce length of Norprene by 10mm.

EL-0735-002-000
250mm of Norprene start 80mm from 002
MR-250003 grommet 365mm from 002
Clear/SS


Impression:
When I first installed the brake side it was the 18mm piston size.
I didn't like it at all.
The lever travel was shorter and the force needed to brake was higher compared to OEM.
I then bought another Master Cylinder, this time with 15mm piston size and it was SPOT ON!
Definitely worth the upgrade, no question about it.

As for the clutch side, some people state that shifting is easy. I can understand why.
And the best way to described is:
OEM MC clutch is like an ON-OFF light switch
Magura MC clutch is like a dimmer switch (it is more forgiving in my opinion).


I do recommend this upgrade and I am happy with my purchase!
Yup..your spot on the description of the actuation of 15mm brake and clutch... I loved my Magura HC3! It's definitely worth the upgrade to radial type master cylinder. That and upgrading the suspension and removing the inner tube on wire wheels and going with tubeless type wire wheels.
 

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Registered
2018 R Nine T Racer
Joined
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263 Posts
Here is what I did for the Magura installation.
I ordered two new lines from Spiegler:

Clutch Side:
The clutch side was very easy.
The coating color is Clear.
Fittings are in Stainless Steel.
Length is 1320 mm.
Each fitting is the straight one (regular).

The part number is:
EL-1320-000-000
Clear/SS


Brake Side:
You need a 20 degree bend at the ABS side. A straight fitting will not work!
At the Master Cylinder side you can use a straight fitting.
You also need a grommet which holds the brake line at the steering column just behind the headlight.
The OEM brake line has 2 rubber sleeves to protect the paint of the chassis.
I ordered the brake line with two rubber sleeves but at the end I removed one (the side near the Master Cylinder).

The part number is:
EL-0730-002-000
260mm of Norprene start 80mm from 002
MR-250003 grommet 365mm from 002
Clear/SS


The position of the grommet was a little bit off but you can move it a bit if you put some soapy water.
I would also reduce the length of the Norprene since I did not know that they fix it with a shrink tube which add length.
In my case the grommet is on the shrink tube.

If I would replace the Brake line again I would add 5mm on total length and reduce length of Norprene by 10mm.

EL-0735-002-000
250mm of Norprene start 80mm from 002
MR-250003 grommet 365mm from 002
Clear/SS


Impression:
When I first installed the brake side it was the 18mm piston size.
I didn't like it at all.
The lever travel was shorter and the force needed to brake was higher compared to OEM.
I then bought another Master Cylinder, this time with 15mm piston size and it was SPOT ON!
Definitely worth the upgrade, no question about it.

As for the clutch side, some people state that shifting is easy. I can understand why.
And the best way to described is:
OEM MC clutch is like an ON-OFF light switch
Magura MC clutch is like a dimmer switch (it is more forgiving in my opinion).


I do recommend this upgrade and I am happy with my purchase!
This is great information. Thnx for posting


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Can anyone recommend a reservoir for the HC1? I don’t like the plastic cups so much. Also is there any critical reason why the brake side is larger? If I replace I would prefer them being the same size.
 

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2018 R Nine T Racer
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263 Posts
I plan on fitting the rizoma fluid reservoir. The “Next” version has one which is suitable for mineral oil



Brake side is always larger indeed and I do question why myself

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2015 R Ninet
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19 Posts
Hi i am thinking about upgrading my master cylinders for my 2015 NineT classic. I was looking at Beringer but it’s using DOT fluid for the clutch which isn’t my preference, so I am only left with Magura ones.

I called Magura and they told me that the standard switch comes with HC1 has an opposite behavior to the BMW’s OEM switch. Like one is normally open and when pressing the switch it becomes closed. The other one is just opposite, but I forgot which is which. They just have opposite behavior, and can not be used on R NineT directly out of the box. is this what you are experiencing?

Also, for the brake side, what do you do with the brake light switch that comes with the HC1 master cylinder? It seems it is not used, so just take it off and put it in the box?

thanks for the help~~~
 

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2018 R Nine T Racer
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263 Posts
Quick question.

If you want to replace the rear brake brake line.
Is it necessary to take the tank off completely or is it enough to lift it up while keeping the back bolt in place ?


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2020 Nine T Classic
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79 Posts
Hello everyone, i've also received the moto madness kit an plan on doing a DIY installation very soon. I've just installed a lower than stock Rizoma MA006B bars so i won't need new longer lines.
I am wondering what to do with the Magura contact switch on the brake master cylinder ? It's not needed on our bikes as i believe that the stock brake switch is activated directly by fluid pressure in the abs system. Did you guys removed that switch and wires ? Cut it ?
 

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Hello everyone, i've also received the moto madness kit an plan on doing a DIY installation very soon. I've just installed a lower than stock Rizoma MA006B bars so i won't need new longer lines.
I am wondering what to do with the Magura contact switch on the brake master cylinder ? It's not needed on our bikes as i believe that the stock brake switch is activated directly by fluid pressure in the abs system. Did you guys removed that switch and wires ? Cut it ?
You are correct that the brake lever switch isn't needed as our brake switch is triggered from the abs system. I went with the simplest option of just tucking the magura wire out of the way instead of cutting it. The wire follows the path of my throttle cable but on close inspection doesn't actually connect to anything.

I did my conversion quite a while ago so I'm not sure if the kit now provides an adapter for the clutch cable but for what its worth I did end up cutting the stock bmw harness and soldering it to the magura clutch switch wiring.
 

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2015 R Ninet
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19 Posts
Hello everyone, i've also received the moto madness kit an plan on doing a DIY installation very soon. I've just installed a lower than stock Rizoma MA006B bars so i won't need new longer lines.
I am wondering what to do with the Magura contact switch on the brake master cylinder ? It's not needed on our bikes as i believe that the stock brake switch is activated directly by fluid pressure in the abs system. Did you guys removed that switch and wires ? Cut it ?
The magura brake switch is just hold by one or two screws. I just unscrew it and take the brake switch off and store it somewhere.

For the clutch switch, I bought the BMW connector with leads PN 83300413582 (Not cheap, around 20Euro) and cut the magura switch harness and solder the BMW connector to it and then connect to the clutch connector on the bike. I prefer to leave the wiring harness on the bike intact as it is expensive and hard to replace. It is easy to buy the Magura clutch switch harness at a much lower cost. It is also just hold by one or two screws to the main body.
 

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2020 Nine T Classic
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79 Posts
The magura brake switch is just hold by one or two screws. I just unscrew it and take the brake switch off and store it somewhere.

For the clutch switch, I bought the BMW connector with leads PN 83300413582 (Not cheap, around 20Euro) and cut the magura switch harness and solder the BMW connector to it and then connect to the clutch connector on the bike. I prefer to leave the wiring harness on the bike intact as it is expensive and hard to replace. It is easy to buy the Magura clutch switch harness at a much lower cost. It is also just hold by one or two screws to the main body.
Thanks a lot for all the details, I’ll proceed and report once done 👍🏻
 

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2020 Nine T Classic
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Last minute question : as i am not changing the front brake line, i’ll only flush from the caliper to the master cylinder. BMW recommends DOT 4 brake fluid, which is what my system is filed with. It took me ages to find a DOT3/4 fluid locally. Can anyone confirm that it is what I have to use to file the new master cylinder and mix with the existing fluid in my abs system ?
MAGURA recommends DOT fluid, without much precision. I was tempted to go with DOT 5, much easier to find, but i believe it’s not compatible to mix with the said DOT 4 actually in my bike ?

here what I have and was expensive and painful to find locally :
141038
 

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2015 R Ninet
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Last minute question : as i am not changing the front brake line, i’ll only flush from the caliper to the master cylinder. BMW recommends DOT 4 brake fluid, which is what my system is filed with. It took me ages to find a DOT3/4 fluid locally. Can anyone confirm that it is what I have to use to file the new master cylinder and mix with the existing fluid in my abs system ?
MAGURA recommends DOT fluid, without much precision. I was tempted to go with DOT 5, much easier to find, but i believe it’s not compatible to mix with the said DOT 4 actually in my bike ?

here what I have and was expensive and painful to find locally :
View attachment 141038
Ya, I believe BMW used Dot 4 in the brake system. So you should be okay using that Castro’s bottle to flush the system. I used the Bosch ENV6 to flush the system. They were like 15 dollars for a bottle. Just make sure you are not using Dot 5 then you are all good.

And also make sure to use mineral oil for the clutch side. I used the Magura Royal blood (blue) and it is hard to find in a physical store around me and the thing is expensive....
 

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2020 Nine T Classic
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79 Posts
Hi all, as promised here is a little report on the Magura HC1 conversion I just performed on my own using the Motomadness kit.

First, be aware that this is quite a serious job, nothing majorly difficult but you have to be mechanically minded and take your time to performs the bleedings properly, check for clearance and torque things right. you’re modifying the brake and clutch systems of your bike which are critical for safety. You don’t want to be suddenly losing either of those systems on your first right out. Don’t rush in, otherwise you’re going to pay for it later.

I did not replaced any of the lines because I took this opportunity to install a Rizoma MA006B handlebar which is noticeably lower and narrower than the stock unit, giving me the extra length I’d need on the lines while performing this Magura HC1 MC conversion.

For the detailed process, the Magura YT video on the 9T is pretty spot on.

Here is what I’d add to it, applying to my specific bike and configuration ( 2020 R9T classic / MA006 bars / stock fluid lines kept ) :

  • I highly recommend that you perform this DIY on a paddock stand so the bike and handlebar sits leveled.
  • first, take out carefully the existing MC off the handlebar. While the MC are still mounted, unscrew the reservoirs covers and pump out the fluids before un-connecting the lines so you’ll not have to deal with a massive amount of fluid leaking out when doing so. Then, if you plan to reuse the lines keep them pointing up so you minimize the amount of fluid lost and air in the lines.
  • Make sur you properly clean your syringe and tubes If you plan to reuse the same to empty and bleed the clutch and brakes. They use very different types of fluid and you don’t want to be mixing them.
  • As I’ve not changed the lines, due to the installation of a lower handlebar, I only had to bleed the upper part of the systems, and MC.
  • As we all know the 9T is equipped with angled banjo fittings. If you plan on keeping the stock lines, before torquing the lines and putting fluids in the MC to start to bleeding process, I recommend that you do a test montage just by connecting the lines but not torquing them. Turn the handlebar from lock to lock multiple times and check for clearance issues or any kind of excessive stress on the banjo rigid fittings. Adjusting the angle at which your going to fix the lines onto the MC might help a lot to keep the lines stress free.
  • I used the adaptor supplied by motomadness on the brake side because it was helping me getting the right unstressed angle while connecting my stock brake line.
  • On the other hand, I could not use it on the clutch side cause it was making me twist the line too much for my liking. i felt like there was too much stress on the banjo rigid fitting and it would eventually snap. I ended up connecting the stock clutch line directly to the new MC and slightly pulling to the front the clutch line at the rear of the bike to give the line the most length possible and the less stress angle possible.
  • I recommend to re-use the small white plastic obturators that comes onto the Magura MC and place them onto your old MC to seal them for storage. Give them a proper cleaning with brake fluid cleaner and store them properly. These are valuable OEM parts that you might want to reuse one day.
  • I did took out the Magura brake switch out of the MC as we don’t need it. It’s hold by two tiny little screws that are pretty soft and will probably fail on you while you try to remove these. I had to use a small but strong pair of pliers to slowly twist these out to free up the contact switch. Magura used a copious amount of threadlocker on these, hence why they are very difficult to get out.
  • On the clutch side i decided to solder the OEM wires to the Magura contact switch. I have not used any connector as it is quite badly placed in your sight of view. But the switch is easily removable so you should not have troubles if you’d like to remove the MC of the bike. I can attest that the version of the HC1 MC motomadness sent me is equipped with a switch activated in the same way as the stock unit is. I’ve experience no trouble starting the bike and no error code has shown.
  • once everything is properly bled and torqued, and that you’ve cleaned and double checked everything you can test the systems. I recommend that firstly you test your brakes and clutch without starting the bike, just with a few pulls forward and backward in your garage for exemple. This will be your last check for leaks or obvious problems before the actual test ride. Both levers should feel just slightly lighter to pull than stock, but the feel should be more precise than stock. If the brake feels spongy it certainly isn’t bled right.
  • Last, start your actual test ride easy and go progressive on the braking. You should quickly get a feel for it but remember : it’s a test ride, should something fail if you’ve missed something it should happen quickly so ride easy on the first few miles, better safe than sorry. Be aware that just out of the garage and with copious amounts of brake fluid cleaner used around your brakes, it could take a few braking to get back to a normal bite on your disks.

Riding report :
HC1 13mm Clutch MC :
  • The clutch feels slightly lighter and you get much more feel. The Magura levers are slightly shorter than stock which helps if you don’t have big hands. It also makes it easier to clear a bar end mirror if your a using one.
  • The actual clutch slipping point is higher, on the first half of lever travel. It really makes changing gears much smoother and easier on your hand, it really is enjoyable now. Same deal with downshifting, specially if you rev match. I’d really recommend it. I really think I’d help reduce fatigue on longer trips.

HC1 18mm front brakes MC :
  • As for the clutch, the front brake is now slightly lighter than stock, but lever travel is shorter. Feel is massively improved, and you can really hard brake on two finger. Not sure if the actual braking power is improved but you get to use it in an easier and more adjustable way.

Over all, I’d really recommend this mod if you want to really improve the details on your 9T. At start I mainly wanted it for esthetic reasons, to clear up the handlebar of those massive and heavy stock MCs. I was fine with the stock MCs feel, but now I really understand what everyone was talking about. It really takes the riding experience to another level once you’ve tried these.
I’d compare it to the stock steering damper versus a full adjustable Ohlins unit : stock is fine until you’ve tried the Ohlins.

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233 Posts
Would the stock lines be long enough if converted to clip-ons? I have quite a bit of extra line now that my controls are about 6 inches lower.
 

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2020 Nine T Classic
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79 Posts
Would the stock lines be long enough if converted to clip-ons? I have quite a bit of extra line now that my controls are about 6 inches lower.
I think yes, they were just long enough for me to convert using a lower set of bars, clip-ons should give you plenty of extra.
 

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I think yes, they were just long enough for me to convert using a lower set of bars, clip-ons should give you plenty of extra.
Nice...the stock banjo heads are the correct size if I’m not mistaken? So it’s literally a disconnect banjo bolt, remove old levers and replace with new?
 

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2020 Nine T Classic
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Nice...the stock banjo heads are the correct size if I’m not mistaken? So it’s literally a disconnect banjo bolt, remove old levers and replace with new?
Exact, but be aware that the stock banjo fitings are rigid, and the braided lines are not very flexible (rotation wise) if you need to adjust the angle a which you would like to connect the banjo on the new MC. It can be tricky to get it right. You don't want to apply too much rotational stress onto the banjo rigid fitings, othewise it could snap with time ...
 
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