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Ordered my HC3 levers today. After chatting with a few Magura techs, I decided to do the HC3 instead of HC1. I did the 12mm piston for the clutch in mineral oil and the 18mm piston for the brake.

I read some people talking about how they felt better with the 15mm for the brake, but I like a really BITEY front brake and the techs over at Magura (one of them is the lead tech for Magura USA) suggested that if I wanted it to be bitey to get the 18mm. I asked about going to DOT for the bigger 15mm piston he said "If your bike is mineral oil now, the effort, in my opinion, isn't worth swapping.....the radial master cylinder already shortens the stroke of the lever quite a bit."

Opted for 2 day shipping direct from Magura...hopefully it shows up beginning of next week so I can get to install it before the weekend!
 

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15mm or 18mm comes down to personal choice. Good luck with the installation. How you like the intake? Is it by J.C R9T from Taiwan? Did you need to retune the ECU?
 

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15mm or 18mm comes down to personal choice. Good luck with the installation. How you like the intake? Is it by J.C R9T from Taiwan? Did you need to retune the ECU?
That's essentially what they said. "15mm if you want it to feel closer to stock lever travel/feel or 18mm if you want it bitey. Lots of people get really nervous with a grabby brake, so if that doesn't I would say go for it. Both offer a substantial improvement over stock though." I come from a trials background, so I can't ever have enough braking power, haha.

Excited to see how they look on the bike. I originally was going to get black, but I figured gold might match the forks and bring a LITTLE attention to them instead of being black like everything else lol.

The intake is really beautiful to look at. The installation of it sucks though simply because you have to delete the airbox and unless you want to waste an entire weeks worth of hours dismantling the bike to keep a part that will likely never go back on, it's not really reversible. As far as retune the ECU, I installed it at the same time as a RapidBike EVO and MyTuningBike, so I'm not sure if it was NEEDED, but my dyno tuner said given where my current AFR was, he GUESSES it wouldn't be NEEDED, but why not install it anyways. Dyno sessions coming soon though to see what kind of power the EVO, MTB and intake did for the power and AFR.
 

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Yeah I prefer the gold HC3 over the black. Back to your intake, where's the battery now? What kind of filter does it come with? How long did it take to arrive from Taiwan?
 

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Bled and installed the HC3 levers today. Used blue Magura blood from the bike shop. Let me say that while this install isn’t hard, it’s EXTREMELY tedious if you get air in your lines because of the ABS system. I tried a vacuum hand pump, that made things worse, then did a caliper-to-master bleed, was better, then had a friend come over and use a compressor vacuum system. It feels SIGNIFICANTLY better than stock, but the brake isn’t as rock solid as I would have expected, so I have an appointment with the dealer to bleed it on Thursday just to be certain all the air is out (anybody who has seen the pump system a dealer uses to bleed brakes know there is zero chance of air being in the system if done correctly.)

Also, because I didn’t want to cut the factory harness, I cut the female end off the oem clutch switch connector, trimmed up the connector so it would be as small as possible when heat shrinked, and plugged it in.

In the end, I would have gladly paid the dealer one or two hours of labor to install and bleed the brake and clutch. It was satisfying, yes, but bleeding brakes suckson a bike with ABS
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Here is what I did for the Magura installation.
I ordered two new lines from Spiegler:

Clutch Side:
The clutch side was very easy.
The coating color is Clear.
Fittings are in Stainless Steel.
Length is 1320 mm.
Each fitting is the straight one (regular).

The part number is:
EL-1320-000-000
Clear/SS


Brake Side:
You need a 20 degree bend at the ABS side. A straight fitting will not work!
At the Master Cylinder side you can use a straight fitting.
You also need a grommet which holds the brake line at the steering column just behind the headlight.
The OEM brake line has 2 rubber sleeves to protect the paint of the chassis.
I ordered the brake line with two rubber sleeves but at the end I removed one (the side near the Master Cylinder).

The part number is:
EL-0730-002-000
260mm of Norprene start 80mm from 002
MR-250003 grommet 365mm from 002
Clear/SS


The position of the grommet was a little bit off but you can move it a bit if you put some soapy water.
I would also reduce the length of the Norprene since I did not know that they fix it with a shrink tube which add length.
In my case the grommet is on the shrink tube.

If I would replace the Brake line again I would add 5mm on total length and reduce length of Norprene by 10mm.

EL-0735-002-000
250mm of Norprene start 80mm from 002
MR-250003 grommet 365mm from 002
Clear/SS


Impression:
When I first installed the brake side it was the 18mm piston size.
I didn't like it at all.
The lever travel was shorter and the force needed to brake was higher compared to OEM.
I then bought another Master Cylinder, this time with 15mm piston size and it was SPOT ON!
Definitely worth the upgrade, no question about it.

As for the clutch side, some people state that shifting is easy. I can understand why.
And the best way to described is:
OEM MC clutch is like an ON-OFF light switch
Magura MC clutch is like a dimmer switch (it is more forgiving in my opinion).


I do recommend this upgrade and I am happy with my purchase!
This is a very informative post for me!
did you use stock handlebars?
if so, the brake/clutch line length information you provided would apply to me as well.

I have one more question.
ABS module -> line of 2 brake calipers
do you know the length of that?
my R9T is 6 years old. so I would like to replace the entire line if possible.
 
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