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Nice...the stock banjo heads are the correct size if I’m not mistaken? So it’s literally a disconnect banjo bolt, remove old levers and replace with new?
Exact, but be aware that the stock banjo fitings are rigid, and the braided lines are not very flexible (rotation wise) if you need to adjust the angle a which you would like to connect the banjo on the new MC. It can be tricky to get it right. You don't want to apply too much rotational stress onto the banjo rigid fitings, othewise it could snap with time ...
 
Ordered my HC3 levers today. After chatting with a few Magura techs, I decided to do the HC3 instead of HC1. I did the 12mm piston for the clutch in mineral oil and the 18mm piston for the brake.

I read some people talking about how they felt better with the 15mm for the brake, but I like a really BITEY front brake and the techs over at Magura (one of them is the lead tech for Magura USA) suggested that if I wanted it to be bitey to get the 18mm. I asked about going to DOT for the bigger 15mm piston he said "If your bike is mineral oil now, the effort, in my opinion, isn't worth swapping.....the radial master cylinder already shortens the stroke of the lever quite a bit."

Opted for 2 day shipping direct from Magura...hopefully it shows up beginning of next week so I can get to install it before the weekend!
 
15mm or 18mm comes down to personal choice. Good luck with the installation. How you like the intake? Is it by J.C R9T from Taiwan? Did you need to retune the ECU?
That's essentially what they said. "15mm if you want it to feel closer to stock lever travel/feel or 18mm if you want it bitey. Lots of people get really nervous with a grabby brake, so if that doesn't I would say go for it. Both offer a substantial improvement over stock though." I come from a trials background, so I can't ever have enough braking power, haha.

Excited to see how they look on the bike. I originally was going to get black, but I figured gold might match the forks and bring a LITTLE attention to them instead of being black like everything else lol.

The intake is really beautiful to look at. The installation of it sucks though simply because you have to delete the airbox and unless you want to waste an entire weeks worth of hours dismantling the bike to keep a part that will likely never go back on, it's not really reversible. As far as retune the ECU, I installed it at the same time as a RapidBike EVO and MyTuningBike, so I'm not sure if it was NEEDED, but my dyno tuner said given where my current AFR was, he GUESSES it wouldn't be NEEDED, but why not install it anyways. Dyno sessions coming soon though to see what kind of power the EVO, MTB and intake did for the power and AFR.
 
Bled and installed the HC3 levers today. Used blue Magura blood from the bike shop. Let me say that while this install isn’t hard, it’s EXTREMELY tedious if you get air in your lines because of the ABS system. I tried a vacuum hand pump, that made things worse, then did a caliper-to-master bleed, was better, then had a friend come over and use a compressor vacuum system. It feels SIGNIFICANTLY better than stock, but the brake isn’t as rock solid as I would have expected, so I have an appointment with the dealer to bleed it on Thursday just to be certain all the air is out (anybody who has seen the pump system a dealer uses to bleed brakes know there is zero chance of air being in the system if done correctly.)

Also, because I didn’t want to cut the factory harness, I cut the female end off the oem clutch switch connector, trimmed up the connector so it would be as small as possible when heat shrinked, and plugged it in.

In the end, I would have gladly paid the dealer one or two hours of labor to install and bleed the brake and clutch. It was satisfying, yes, but bleeding brakes suckson a bike with ABS
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Here is what I did for the Magura installation.
I ordered two new lines from Spiegler:

Clutch Side:
The clutch side was very easy.
The coating color is Clear.
Fittings are in Stainless Steel.
Length is 1320 mm.
Each fitting is the straight one (regular).

The part number is:
EL-1320-000-000
Clear/SS


Brake Side:
You need a 20 degree bend at the ABS side. A straight fitting will not work!
At the Master Cylinder side you can use a straight fitting.
You also need a grommet which holds the brake line at the steering column just behind the headlight.
The OEM brake line has 2 rubber sleeves to protect the paint of the chassis.
I ordered the brake line with two rubber sleeves but at the end I removed one (the side near the Master Cylinder).

The part number is:
EL-0730-002-000
260mm of Norprene start 80mm from 002
MR-250003 grommet 365mm from 002
Clear/SS


The position of the grommet was a little bit off but you can move it a bit if you put some soapy water.
I would also reduce the length of the Norprene since I did not know that they fix it with a shrink tube which add length.
In my case the grommet is on the shrink tube.

If I would replace the Brake line again I would add 5mm on total length and reduce length of Norprene by 10mm.

EL-0735-002-000
250mm of Norprene start 80mm from 002
MR-250003 grommet 365mm from 002
Clear/SS


Impression:
When I first installed the brake side it was the 18mm piston size.
I didn't like it at all.
The lever travel was shorter and the force needed to brake was higher compared to OEM.
I then bought another Master Cylinder, this time with 15mm piston size and it was SPOT ON!
Definitely worth the upgrade, no question about it.

As for the clutch side, some people state that shifting is easy. I can understand why.
And the best way to described is:
OEM MC clutch is like an ON-OFF light switch
Magura MC clutch is like a dimmer switch (it is more forgiving in my opinion).


I do recommend this upgrade and I am happy with my purchase!
This is a very informative post for me!
did you use stock handlebars?
if so, the brake/clutch line length information you provided would apply to me as well.

I have one more question.
ABS module -> line of 2 brake calipers
do you know the length of that?
my R9T is 6 years old. so I would like to replace the entire line if possible.
 
Does the Magura ratio adjuster allow you to alter the clutch biting point ? I have a post 2017 Urban and find the clutch biting point occurs way too far from the handlebar.This model lacks the adjustment of the pre 2017 bikes.If so, is this feature present on the HC1 or only the HC3 ?
 
Finally got around to the clutch switch today. Just cut either side of two wire strand. Removed the three pin OEM connection and spliced the wires. Tested before soldering and no luck. Clutch switch is not working. Any ideas here?
Hc1 on 2015 classic
 
Hi everyone, I have the Motomadness HC1 kit with a 18mm piston brake MC. I'm contemplating switching to a 15mm piston because I'm finding my setup a touch too hard to pull for road use. Does anybody knows if the piston size can be switched in a DIY way or do you need to purchase a brand new MC or send bake your unit to have it changed ?
 
Finally got around to the clutch switch today. Just cut either side of two wire strand. Removed the three pin OEM connection and spliced the wires. Tested before soldering and no luck. Clutch switch is not working. Any ideas here?
Hc1 on 2015 classic
I was recently working on the clutch switch on my r1200 GSA and was baffled when I couldn’t get it to work. My bike was on the centre stand but it was when my shin hit the side stand, which was still down, that I realised that was the problem. I put the side stand up and miraculously the clutch switch worked as expected.
Did I feel like a dickhead. Not to suggest that you are of course 😊
 
I was recently working on the clutch switch on my r1200 GSA and was baffled when I couldn’t get it to work. My bike was on the centre stand but it was when my shin hit the side stand, which was still down, that I realised that was the problem. I put the side stand up and miraculously the clutch switch worked as expected.
Did I feel like a dickhead. Not to suggest that you are of course 😊
😂 😂😂 Could be! Certainly made dumber mistakes!
 
Clutch master cylinder replacement

Hi all,

I thought I was on a roll today. I replaced my OEM bars with Rizoma clip-ons. As I was retightening the clutch master cylinder bracket, it cracked. Should’ve used the torque wrench!
I ordered a Magura HC-1, and I’m just curious if the replacement is straight forward? Or should I send to a mechanic for installation?
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Hey @TorontoR9T - I know that you're looking for a forum member who has done this install. I believe @rich46 has tackled this for his Racer, perhaps you can reach out to him, he's very knowledgeable.

Here's Magura's own video on the HC-1 install.






Additionally, this thread deals specifically with your topic. Take a look at post #57 specifically.


 
Hey @TorontoR9T - I know that you're looking for a forum member who has done this install. I believe @rich46 has tackled this for his Racer, perhaps you can reach out to him, he's very knowledgeable.

Here's Magura's own video on the HC-1 install.






Additionally, this thread deals specifically with your topic. Take a look at post #57 specifically.


Thanks so much!
 
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