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Discussion Starter #1
2016 EU (UK!) model (R nine T)

I bought the bike used and it came with an R&G tail tidy with a swing arm mounted number plate. The Hardly Dangerous look didn't appeal (nor did the trail of mud up my back) so I opted for a tail tidy with a tail mounted numberplate (a Puig one I think). The rear light loom had been butchered so I ordered an OEM rear loom from my local Stealership. I also purchased a (used) OEM tail light. All fitted up okay but when I tested I discovered I had no running light (brake light and numberplate light work fine - and no LAMP! warning present). I then ordered a replacement tail light from LICHTEX in Germany (as significantly cheaper than BMW) - my thinking was there was something wrong with the secondhand unit I bought from eBay). Sadly same problem even though it stated it was for the 2015 - 2017 model year.

I've searched the forum (15 pages of it) and can only find one other post which details the same symptoms however there was no reply.

Anyone shed any light (no pun intended).
 

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So the rearmost lighting loom plugs into the main loom, and I am assuming that everything was working fine before you removed the butchered loom. In that case I am wondering if there is perhaps a failed connection being made between the connectors - check that all pins are straight and none retract into the plug when inserted into the socket. Similarly check that all the electrical connectors in the socket side are OK and not loose. It could be one or more connections are not being made. I can't remember what looms are attached to the plug and socket (though I'd guess the main loom would carry the socket).

A very long shot is that there is a break in a wire in the main loom probably close to the connector. Perhaps you unplugging the loom has pushed a dodgy failing wire over the edge... As I have said this is unlikely but just about possible.

Also I notice this is your first post. Welcome! I know this is probably the last thing on your mind right now, but when you have some time (once you get your light fixed probably) could you post an introduction in the New Members Introductions section. We do like to say hello properly... ;)

Good luck and I hope you get this fixed soon! :)
 
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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply and the welcome.

Yes, it worked before I touched it! It was running an aftermarket light unit however - with a separate number plate light on the swingarm. I've now sold that R&G kit on eBay. . .

I'll give the main loom a look at but it is flat and well factory taped where it connects to the rear lighting loom. Also all of the other lights are working and I'm pretty sure the running / tail light is shared with something else (e.g. tail + brake or tail + number plate) as there are only 3 pins going to the rear light unit. I've visually inspected the pins (more than once) however it would be great if someone could confirm what I should be seeing in terms of voltage on each pin before I stab it with a DVM.

Only thing I can think of is there is an issue with the ZFE unit (unlikely) or I have two of the wrong type of tail lights (as I think there was a change on MY17?)

I guess I could just purchase an aftermarket light unit which I could probably get working - but I'd hoped to put it back to standard as I don't think aftermarket lighting units work as well as OEM ones (from experience) and I don't want to be faffing about with resistors etc.
 

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Welcome to the forum. From the plug connector under the seat, If all else fails seems that if your license plate light is working you could always jumper it to the appropriate pin to power the running light also.
Just a thought.
 

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First step would be to measure the power output using a multimeter or else it’s just everybody’s guess.

Do you have a workplace manual or similar which shows the electrical system diagram ?


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First step would be to measure the power output using a multimeter
I agree and that's why I asked earlier on in the thread whether someone could tell me what I should expect to see on the EU plug pins (given that I know the brown is an earth). I see 12v on one (which is presumably why I have the number plate light) and nothing on the other, although when I press / pull the brake I just get a LAMP! warning as the ZFE unit recognises there is no LED present. I might try to test from the rear of the connector with the light unit present but I suspect it'll just be a PWM signal which my DVM won't 'see'.


Sadly I don't have a workshop manual. I guess I'll just bite the bullet and book it in at the (not so) local dealer.
 

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Looking at my manual I see a green red yellow and green blue yellow wire going to the EU spec rear light. The brown is indeed the earth.

The rear brake light switch is a yellow and blue and yellow and green wire.



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I agree and that's why I asked earlier on in the thread whether someone could tell me what I should expect to see on the EU plug pins (given that I know the brown is an earth). I see 12v on one (which is presumably why I have the number plate light) and nothing on the other, although when I press / pull the brake I just get a LAMP! warning as the ZFE unit recognises there is no LED present. I might try to test from the rear of the connector with the light unit present but I suspect it'll just be a PWM signal which my DVM won't 'see'.


Sadly I don't have a workshop manual. I guess I'll just bite the bullet and book it in at the (not so) local dealer.
The Haynes manual is not a great shop manual, but it is far better than nothing. And it is not expensive.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the replies, and the photo of the wiring diagram.

Looking at my manual I see a green red yellow and green blue yellow wire going to the EU spec rear light.
From the key on that diagram, GR is grey rather than green - but otherwise that is correct.
P6020018.JPG

With the rear light unit connected it isn't possible to get a reading from the rear of the connector (without piercing the wire), so I tested from the US connector (as the wiring diagram shows they are directly connected). The grey red with yellow trace gives battery voltage with ignition (which is what feeds the number / licence plate light). The grey black with yellow trace gives only a trace voltage (~0.06V) which then becomes battery voltage when the brake is pressed / pulled.

Looking at the detail imprinted on the light itself backs up my thoughts as it states:
rear/stop light 0.36W / 1.56W 12V
number plate 0.96W 12V

So it appears I'm not getting the 0.36W (0.03A) feed for the running light.

Is there anyone out there who could perhaps test their voltages for me?
 
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