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Performance increase options

43756 Views 54 Replies 27 Participants Last post by  Jorge Lorenzo
I realize this might be better suited in the technical forum, but seeing that we're just starting, thought this is a good spot.

Any ideas from current or previous R1200R owners as to what sorta HP increase can we expect with an Akra slip-on and a K&N?

If I could get more 10HP out of the bike, I'd be thrilled.

At 120HP and 90 torque should be close to perfect!
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Lowered Transmission Ratio

When reading the BMW factory press release, there are several unstated comparisons to, I believe, the current R1200R. In that vein, it states, "In keeping with the dynamic character of the nineT, the secondary transmission ratio of the pinion and ring gear has been lowered for optimum accelerating power and the smoothest possible gear shifts." I assume as compared to the R1200R so, go to BMWs website and do the model comparison where I do indeed see the lower gearing reflected. Other performance stats such as lower fuel efficiency and slightly differing torque values (119 Nm vs 115Nm) probably reflect the lower gearing. Should get you a little more pep around town compared to the R1200R.
From all I've read here, there may be some minor (but usually not cheap) ways to generally improve fuel delivery, engine management and the like but these mods usually do not offer much in HP increases but rather effects how the engine responds to rider throttle inputs and may, in some cases, alter the power band slightly. I think most here agree torque is where this bike really delivers and is what makes it so dang fun to ride. A major reason F1 race cars and super bikes get the HP ratings they do is directly related to how fast they spin the rpms and why they sound like they are screaming (they are) and why the rider has to keep them spun up at all times to get that power. If you want torque (that raw grunty twisting power) then, normally, a v-twin or boxer is a good way to go. If you want raw hp, then you have to figure there is a reason there are so many in-line fours on the road that ring those bells. Adjusting the engine management settings on a boxer has been proven to make it more responsive by moving settings away from the most efficient emissions and efficiency range into a range where you burn more fuel more quickly (and usually requires intake and exhaust mods to optimize) which is what most find to be an "improvement" over factory settings. In everything though there are tradeoffs. With bikes, the menu for any modification usually has three things on it but you only get to pick two, as with wheels (cheap, strong, or light).
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Adjusting the engine management settings on a boxer has been proven to make it more responsive by moving settings away from the factory's settings, which are optimized for more efficient fuel consumption and consequently lower emissions. The remap can be used to bump settings into a range where you burn more fuel more quickly and can be adjusted o your specific riding needs (for best results this should probably be part of the intake and exhaust mods) and will definitely be perceptible as a performance "improvement" over middle of the road, global markets, factory settings. But let's not forget weight-to-power ratios which are critical on bikes. Our bike weighs in at a little less than 500lbs, I weigh (with all my gear and backpack, ready for my commute) about 250lbs (half again that much or around 33%). That's 110hp to move 750lbs. I'd spend a fortune dropping 20-30lbs off the bike itself compared to addressing the rider side of this equation and dropping my weight which would improve overall available "power".
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