Performance increase options

From all I've read here, there may be some minor (but usually not cheap) ways to generally improve fuel delivery, engine management and the like but these mods usually do not offer much in HP increases but rather effects how the engine responds to rider throttle inputs and may, in some cases, alter the power band slightly. I think most here agree torque is where this bike really delivers and is what makes it so dang fun to ride. A major reason F1 race cars and super bikes get the HP ratings they do is directly related to how fast they spin the rpms and why they sound like they are screaming (they are) and why the rider has to keep them spun up at all times to get that power. If you want torque (that raw grunty twisting power) then, normally, a v-twin or boxer is a good way to go. If you want raw hp, then you have to figure there is a reason there are so many in-line fours on the road that ring those bells. Adjusting the engine management settings on a boxer has been proven to make it more responsive by moving settings away from the most efficient emissions and efficiency range into a range where you burn more fuel more quickly (and usually requires intake and exhaust mods to optimize) which is what most find to be an "improvement" over factory settings. In everything though there are tradeoffs. With bikes, the menu for any modification usually has three things on it but you only get to pick two, as with wheels (cheap, strong, or light).

Adjusting the engine management settings on a boxer has been proven to make it more responsive by moving settings away from the factory's settings, which are optimized for more efficient fuel consumption and consequently lower emissions. The remap can be used to bump settings into a range where you burn more fuel more quickly and can be adjusted o your specific riding needs (for best results this should probably be part of the intake and exhaust mods) and will definitely be perceptible as a performance "improvement" over middle of the road, global markets, factory settings. But let's not forget weight-to-power ratios which are critical on bikes. Our bike weighs in at a little less than 500lbs, I weigh (with all my gear and backpack, ready for my commute) about 250lbs (half again that much or around 33%). That's 110hp to move 750lbs. I'd spend a fortune dropping 20-30lbs off the bike itself compared to addressing the rider side of this equation and dropping my weight which would improve overall available "power".