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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone,

I'm taking on the ambitious project of doing the airbox and battery mod. I've got Remus headers, a custom exhaust tip and running a BoosterPlug for fueling.

Is the BoosterPlug still needed if I'm relocating the factory air sensor? Would having both send too much fuel to the motor with both sensors exposed to open air?

Any expert opinions on this?

Thanks,
 

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OK this is a new slant on the Booster Plug debates we have on here! :)

I'm assuming you mean you are removing the air box and installing cone filtration...

I'm no expert but I'd say if I was in your shoes I'd keep the BP installed as the AIT sensor-reported air temps won't be radically different in my opinion.

I'm hoping we can steer away form the usual bun fight that breaks out any time a BP is mentioned. the OP is obviously a convert! ;) I also like them too and had one for quite a while before investing in a Bren remap.

I will say that in your shoes if you are going for such a big change to the induction and exhaust system, that a tailored ECU remap would be the ideal solution here.

IMO Booster Plugs work best for more modest exhaust system mods as they only spoof Air Intake Temp, but would say that a BP is the minimum I'd be using with what you propose. I personally wouldn't run it and let the bike's stock ECU try to work out what to do... Your mods will I believe lean-out the AFR, so something is needed to restore balance.

A remap will adjust far more parameters that will more effectively keep ideal fuelling and power delivery across the rev range, plus hopefully give you more power at the same time.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I was hoping you'd see this and wonder why there's another BP post. ?

Thanks for the input. I figured leaving it on would be best until I can get a proper tune at a later date.

I'm just trying to get up and running in time for DGR.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Well it turns out that a BP and open air filters is no a go-go. Trying to after firing up the bike it quickly settled into a 4k RPM idle.

After a mild panic of thinking I broke something a disassembled the bike again, removed the BP and the bike is back to a normal idle.

Albeit, a bit louder from the induction noise now.
 

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Well it turns out that a BP and open air filters is no a go-go. Trying to after firing up the bike it quickly settled into a 4k RPM idle.

After a mild panic of thinking I broke something a disassembled the bike again, removed the BP and the bike is back to a normal idle.

Albeit, a bit louder from the induction noise now.
Wow! I wouldn't have expected that! Perhaps the ECU adaptations need reset here.... I think GS-911 tool can do this (if you have one).
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Wow! I wouldn't have expected that! Perhaps the ECU adaptations need reset here.... I think GS-911 tool can do this (if you have one).
Me neither. I consulted with a parts manager at a dealership and he made sense of it. If the BP tricks the AIT sensor to think its 20 degrees cooler while in the airbox, having the BP in addition to the factory sensor exposed makes the bike think it's almost twice as cold, hence the high idle.

I've got some new wheels to install so I'll have my dealer do that ECU reset while I'm there.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
It maybe take a few short rides for a new no to calibrate or adjust to the changes.

Got any pictures of your bike with the new filters. I have always loved this look.
I've got a bit more work to do before I get her settled in. I'll have more pics on the process on my build thread in a bit.



 
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