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I am thinking that from looking up the associated wheel part numbers on RealOem that certain part numbers relating to axle components differ from my 2016 LC R to my 2018 racer. I plan to take out my fronts on both bikes and see for myself if the lc R front will fit my Racer
I can tell you from personal experience that the wheel in question will work as long as you reuse the bearings and axle from the Racer. I have a friend with a LC R1200R that has spoked wheels from a '17 R nineT on her bike.
 

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Thank you! I still need the dealer to have a stick of dynamite stuck up his fundamental orifice! But I daren't phone him up and abuse him lest he does eventually come through, where good friendly relations would be imperative. I'm gonna contact another BMW dealership not too far away and start the process over.

LATER EDIT: dealer sent pix, but for some reason I cannot download them. Similar but not identical to those sourced by nervous - very good-looking too (the wheels, not nervous!). Not sure what bike they are from or if available in silver. I am now following-up with the dealer.

131374
 

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And, just like that, in only two days, they're here!

View attachment 131105

nervous - you would earn the undying gratitude of everyone here if you would weigh the OE spoked wheels complete with tubes and tyres: then weigh the new tubeless cast alloy wheels with tyres. The difference may be quite marked. TIA....
 
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nervous - you would earn the undying gratitude of everyone here if you would weigh the OE spoked wheels complete with tubes and tyres: then weigh the new tubeless cast alloy wheels with tyres. The difference may be quite marked. TIA....
That is certainly my plan. Wheels alons and with tires. I have no tubes in the spoked wheels buy there the Outex kit which will offer some weight. Perhaps not tube heavy but close enough to estimate. I'll post as soon as I have all that data compiled.
 

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Well, the wheels were completed today, fast turnaround, dropped off Monday, picked up Friday. And they are awesome. Look factory. Honestly, with no offense to no one, at this point I am pretty happy I did not go silver because these are just 'one louder'. Can't wait to see them on and in the sunlight where they come alive. Bearings and right angle rear valve are here, lugs, seals and front valve should arrive today. New front tire has been ordered so by this time next week I should have this project complete and ready to install.

Pics don't do their 3D sparkle justice.
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131487
 

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For those that have replaced the bearings and seals I have a some questions please. How tight or loose were the hubs when installing yoru new bearings?

As you know, I have a set of 2011 R1200R tubeless (aluminum?) wheels that I had refinished this week, stripped and powder coated. Beautiful job. I also purchased two new BMW front bearings and seals to install. I was very surprised to find that when I want to install the first bearing it required no driving for it to seat. It was a perfect fit but I could walk the bearing to the bottom with no tools. A 'drop fit' for lack of a better term. I do actually have to lightly rotate and 'walk' them in but it's a perfect fit though, no play and I cannot slide the smallest .003 feeler gauge in anywhere along the edge. I did drive the old bearings out but honestly did not check just how tight the originals were before doing that, just assuming they were banged in tight. And the slightest cocking of those would have given that impression. The new and old bearings both measure 52mm on my analog vernier caliper. The hubs seem to measure a hair smaller nut that wouldn't make sense. There are no signs of wear, damage old spin out etc, they look factory new and there are even some visible original machining marks. And because both sides are exactly the same I do not believe there is wear or damage.

So I am stumped. A couple things come to mind.

  • Did the stripping process remove some minute level of finish in the hub that could allow for this difference?
  • Are they this low tolerence originally?
Because the fit is so good am I OK to use them, perhaps with a light application of something like Loctite 609 retaining compound that would 100% insure a complete fit around teh circumference, eliminating or filling even the most minute potential gap.? If I am correct everything is held in place laterally with the axle shoulder, spacers, etc, correct? So there is no chance of them moving laterally once everything is installed and reassembled, and ultimately they are squeezed together as a unit against the hub inner spacer.

Just looking for opinions and experiences to make sure I am thinking clearly on this.

131520
131521
 

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That's weird. Mine was really tight in the R1200R wheels I have. I made a bearing puller to get them out without damaging the mag. And the new ones went in very tight as well.
 

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Well, the wheels were completed today, fast turnaround, dropped off Monday, picked up Friday. And they are awesome. Look factory. Honestly, with no offense to no one, at this point I am pretty happy I did not go silver because these are just 'one louder'. Can't wait to see them on and in the sunlight where they come alive. Bearings and right angle rear valve are here, lugs, seals and front valve should arrive today. New front tire has been ordered so by this time next week I should have this project complete and ready to install.

Pics don't do their 3D sparkle justice.
View attachment 131485
View attachment 131486 View attachment 131487
I can clearly see the 'textured' surface, and as you say they do look great - better than new. If I may - what did the powder-coating cost? Not that it wouldn't be double that here in Oz, but it would give me a starting point - I plan to get some quotes next week, having been put in touch with a BMW m/cycle breaker's business, which seems to have some sets of BMW wheels at quite reasonable prices.
 

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I can tell you from personal experience that the wheel in question will work as long as you reuse the bearings and axle from the Racer. I have a friend with a LC R1200R that has spoked wheels from a '17 R nineT on her bike.
I Trust what you are saying. Today i removed the front from my 2016 12r lc. Put the racer up on rear and front paddock stands. (had to remove the y piece brake union under the headstock and set to one side) Tomorrow i will TRY and fit the 2016 r12lc front wheel to the racer and will confirm what you are saying. Thanks for the input. Incidentally I purchased a tube of nuclear stickum and am going to gunge up the interior rim/spoke interface. Try this Yorkshireman (poorboy) conversion for myself. Do not see the need for sticky tape as it looks a faff and a bugger when and if spokes need replacing. May as well cos I ain`t gonna be riding it any time soon.Thank you Bejing.

Chris
 

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Thank you - that sounds very affordable.
 
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For those that have replaced the bearings and seals I have a some questions please. How tight or loose were the hubs when installing yoru new bearings?

As you know, I have a set of 2011 R1200R tubeless (aluminum?) wheels that I had refinished this week, stripped and powder coated. Beautiful job. I also purchased two new BMW front bearings and seals to install. I was very surprised to find that when I want to install the first bearing it required no driving for it to seat. It was a perfect fit but I could walk the bearing to the bottom with no tools. A 'drop fit' for lack of a better term. I do actually have to lightly rotate and 'walk' them in but it's a perfect fit though, no play and I cannot slide the smallest .003 feeler gauge in anywhere along the edge. I did drive the old bearings out but honestly did not check just how tight the originals were before doing that, just assuming they were banged in tight. And the slightest cocking of those would have given that impression. The new and old bearings both measure 52mm on my analog vernier caliper. The hubs seem to measure a hair smaller nut that wouldn't make sense. There are no signs of wear, damage old spin out etc, they look factory new and there are even some visible original machining marks. And because both sides are exactly the same I do not believe there is wear or damage.

So I am stumped. A couple things come to mind.

  • Did the stripping process remove some minute level of finish in the hub that could allow for this difference?
  • Are they this low tolerence originally?
Because the fit is so good am I OK to use them, perhaps with a light application of something like Loctite 609 retaining compound that would 100% insure a complete fit around teh circumference, eliminating or filling even the most minute potential gap.? If I am correct everything is held in place laterally with the axle shoulder, spacers, etc, correct? So there is no chance of them moving laterally once everything is installed and reassembled, and ultimately they are squeezed together as a unit against the hub inner spacer.

Just looking for opinions and experiences to make sure I am thinking clearly on this.

View attachment 131520 View attachment 131521
I think if I were in your position I’d consider this solution:




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I think if I were in your position I’d consider this solution:




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Thank you. That is exactly what I am considering and already have some Loctite 609 and 641 OTW. I didn't even know of such a product until a couple days ago and feared it was a typical 'transmission fix in a bottle' sort of snake oil but it's legit and widely used and trusted. So given my circumstance I feel really good about the outcome. The seal is plenty snug

That aside I can't help but think that the inside of the hubs has some factory finish on them that was removed in stripping. Looking at them they are super clean bare alloy, not even a marking from the last bearing removal. A finish wouldn't be super structural but could easily account for the .001-.002 I am now missing. Part of me is considering masking those off and giving a quick spray of some automotive grade clear to close the gap and to protect the metal.
 

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Somewhere there is a German BMW assembly person quietly laughing at me as I have now found his 5th rotor both with 'zee little xtra red thread lock..."
 

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That aside I can't help but think that the inside of the hubs has some factory finish on them that was removed in stripping. Looking at them they are super clean bare alloy, not even a marking from the last bearing removal. A finish wouldn't be super structural but could easily account for the .001-.002 I am now missing. Part of me is considering masking those off and giving a quick spray of some automotive grade clear to close the gap and to protect the metal.
When I had wheels refinished, they chemically stripped the previous finish, and media blasted any surfaces that needed fixing, masking off critical areas like the bearing carriers. It looks like they may have blasted that area, removing a minuscule amount of material enough to affect tolerances. From my experience those areas aren't finished but raw aluminum because you can't control the depth of a finish to the needed tolerances.
 

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When I had wheels refinished, they chemically stripped the previous finish, and media blasted any surfaces that needed fixing, masking off critical areas like the bearing carriers. It looks like they may have blasted that area, removing a minuscule amount of material enough to affect tolerances. From my experience those areas aren't finished but raw aluminum because you can't control the depth of a finish to the needed tolerances.
This is good info, and thank you. I suspect this is the case because there is no other explaination beyond slightly undersized bearings. It would only need to be a couple thousandths to matter on either front. The finisher does blast them as you said, but indicates that the "100 grit ALU Oxide doesn't remove any material, just puts the proper profile on the wheel for coating while also removing the stripping film" .

I am going to try the Loctite retaining compound which is specifically made for exactly this situation. I believe the current tolerances are still very good, just not press fit good. But it's the tiniest of gaps to fill, well less than .003 I think, and there is no lateral loading once it's installed so I see no reason it wouldn't be a good and solid as the press fit all said and done. Possibly even better with more overall surface contact. he seals are fine as they're already appropriately oversized.

5/10/20 EDIT: Using the Loctite 641 retaining compound worked beautifully. Bearings are solid.
 

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Halfway there! Rear tire swapped last week and assy installed today. A couple small unforeseen hitches yesterday though. My initial attempt yesterday to install this revealed two area that went unfinished that just looked bad when installed.

First was in this area in the hub. I guess that I and the finisher both assumed that this area needed to be uncoated. Hadn't even given a bit of thought.But when mounted this ring was fully visible and raw aluminum, spoiling an otherwise perfect appearance. So I took it off and went on a hunt for the closest matching automotive touch-up spray paint I could find. And I think I did OK. Honestly that area would have been just as good painted black as long as it was both protected and visually blended. But I found a nice dark gray sparkel that we quite close and leaves me some touch up paint should I ever get finish chips. Masked the area, several light coats of color and a couple clear and it's great. Of course this is only an issue if you're refinishing the wheels from the stock finish and if you've selected a dark color. On silver wheels this would not stand out at all.

Before
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After
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The second area was on the back side. The spoked wheel hub is bigger and covers more. But the backside of this hub again left exposed areas of light gray raw metal. Not as obvious but still worth making right. Came out great.
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And mounted
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And with one of my favorite little luxuries, a right angle stem
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One last thing. I can't recall who originally posted this tip in another thread but thank you and kudos to you. It was an instant lightbulb for me. A simple wheel hanger to support the wheel's weight while you install the bolts makes that so easy, especially for me, being both older and working alone all the time. This is the third hand. An M10x1.25x80 bolt from the local HD, head removed, trimmed to 65mm OL and slotted to accommodate a screwdriver to help removal. 65mm was a good length. At 75, 80 the bolt was unnecessarily long and ran the risk of scratching the wheel finish on that side as you jockey into position and lift.
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The touch-up's you did there @nervous are super......completely unnoticeable.........and the wheel looks absolutely banging!!

That 'Wheel Hanger Stud Tool' fingamagigwhatdoyoucallit is a cracking idea!!

Step up and take a bow whoever thought of it!
 

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@nervous exceptional result!

All of the extra effort and attention to detail has certainly paid off. Great job on the wheels and cataloging the whole ordeal for the rest of us. There is great information contained in this thread.
 
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