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I agree with Iamscs.
The bike's ECU will probably schlit itself because the O2 readings are very different.
Might even put the bike into limp mode.
 

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2016 R-nineT Classic + 1984 Kawasaki ZL900
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I've spoken to the manufacturer of the Rapidbike Easy (Dimsport in Italy), and they confirmed that the electronics box is generic, so can be used for all bikes. You just need to make sure the first dial is set correctly for the type of bike. The only thing that is bike specific, is the connecting cable for the Lambda-sensors.
 

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I've spoken to the manufacturer of the Rapidbike Easy (Dimsport in Italy), and they confirmed that the electronics box is generic, so can be used for all bikes. You just need to make sure the first dial is set correctly for the type of bike. The only thing that is bike specific, is the connecting cable for the Lambda-sensors.
Thats good news. I hope you're winning and tracking down a set of the correct cables. I can confirm that it noticeably improves the bikes riding characteristics
 

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Update: I finally got to take the bike on a meaningful ride after installing the rapid bike easy. Ive been trying to ride as much as i can to and from the shop, hardware etc. As much as lockdown would allow. a week ago I decided to take a detour while i was out and took a spirited ride through some local twisties.

1- I havent noticed any meaningful increase in fuel consumption.
2- The bike is running lovely. Throttle response is smooth all through the rev range. power delivery has also noticeably improved
3- pops and bangs on the overrun are reduced generally. However, they start creeping back when the bike gets warm and if youre on a bit of an enthusiastic ride.
4- initially i was not too keen on the changes it made. but this was simply because i had to get used to the reduced engine braking and different throttle response. Now though id hate to go back to how the bike rode before.

I posted a video of this ride in the videos section of the forum, I hope you guys dont mind me sharing it here. Enjoy!
 

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I've spoken to the manufacturer of the Rapidbike Easy (Dimsport in Italy), and they confirmed that the electronics box is generic, so can be used for all bikes. You just need to make sure the first dial is set correctly for the type of bike. The only thing that is bike specific, is the connecting cable for the Lambda-sensors.
Thanks Tezpigeon, good to know.
Once I am ready for the Rapid Evo, I can tansfer the RBE to my G650GS using a different cable.
 

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2016 R-nineT Classic + 1984 Kawasaki ZL900
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Thanks Tezpigeon, good to know.
Once I am ready for the Rapid Evo, I can tansfer the RBE to my G650GS using a different cable.
Just make sure you check out if the RBE is capable to handle the G650. If the cable happens to be the same as that for the F650, I have one lying around currently (it's up for sale in the Marketplace Forum).
 

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Since fitting new headers my bike stutters at low revs abit. I have ordered a Rapid Easy unit having seen some good comments about it on here.
Does anyone else who has fitted one have any comments on it please?
 

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Should be the same Tezpigeon.
But I only see the F650GS twin, not the single on Dimsport's website
 

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Ok, I see your for sale thread.
That is for the F650GS twin cylinder.
BMW confusing people with naming the twin the same as the old F650GS single
 

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Ok, I see your for sale thread.
That is for the F650GS twin cylinder.
BMW confusing people with naming the twin the same as the old F650GS single
I couldn't find the G650 on the Dimsport site either, so I wasn't sure if the cable would be the same. Even-though it's a cable for a twin (F an K), it only has one sensor connector, so perhaps it is the same cable... (unlike the one required for the R, which has 2).
 

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I've mailed the agents here in Johannesburg. Lets see what they say.
 

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Since fitting new headers my bike stutters at low revs abit. I have ordered a Rapid Easy unit having seen some good comments about it on here.
Does anyone else who has fitted one have any comments on it please?
There is actually quite a big thread on this subject so I've moved your post there. Please have a read and hopeflly this should answer a few questions for you. :)
 

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Agent says the unit can be used on the G650GS, I just have to buy the cable from them.
That's the cable for one O2 sensor.
 

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Thanks to this thread, I just installed the Rapidbike Easy on a 2016 GSA. Installation took about an hour and the cable routing was the trickiest part. After fiddling with the cables and using some zip ties, the module installed under the seat (high position front) with no issues. Also, the trim was set at 5 and I had to set it at 6. Fuel was set to +3 already.

The module powered up on the first start and showed steady green until the temp hit 158F, and then began flashing green.

After my first short test ride I believe the bike now runs as it should from the factory. Before, it was totally gutless under 3k rpm, but now pulls hard from anything over 2k rpm. Pulling away in first also takes almost no throttle where before it required significant clutch slippage. Also, the bike will tractor in first gear where before it would stall. Slow speed riding is much easier. Throttle response seems better.

I haven't ridden it over 30 mph yet but that will come later today.

Update: the bike now pulls harder than before in all gears and especially from 2,500 rpm and up. It also seems to run smoother at idle and under load. The weird surging at 1/4 throttle/steady speed is also gone. It now feels like a normal bike where before it obviously was lean and flat.

I would still love to try a Bren Tuning flash, but for the money the Rapidbike Easy really was too easy, and the effects are all positive. It's too bad EPA standards are causing real rideability issues. There just aren't that many bikes on the road that a few points in AFR matter very much in emissions, but the tradeoff is that they really hurt the bike's performance.
 

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Just fitted a Rapid Bike Easy module. Bike is standard apart from a Two Brothers Racing end can.
Plenty of room in the tray by the ECU, diagnostic plug etc.,fed cables out of the front of the tray and followed the frame rail below the tank then dropped down at the rear of the cylinder.
The cables are quite cleverly made such that when you connect the lead into the O2 sensor, the other mating connector is a little ways back, just right to extend the original outside the tray (tucked up behind cylinder). The tray and everything fits back in position nicely. As commented previously the sheath used on the cable is baggy and the joint on mine separated so I just pushed it back together & wrapped it with electrical tape. It’s all hidden.
Left side was a bit more of a fiddle than the right.
I’ve set mine to +2 rather than +3 on the fuel setting, will see how it goes. There was no instruction as to which connector was left or right, I don’t know if it matters or if I just guessed right. I put the connector with the white/red wire on the left and the other sides cable had a yellow Wire (4 wires on the connector, each side had a blue, black and brown I think and then a white/red on one side, yellow t’other)
Will take it for a ride tomorrow and see how it feels. In the garage, just blipping it seems crisper. Took it for a couple of laps round the block in slippers and pajamas lol, just to make sure it runs ok, big test will be tomorrow.
 

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CunningStunt, your idea of the installation in the rear looks pretty good.
I presume you have a Classic, looks like a single seater there.
Mine is in the same position as Nabeel, but I quite like the RBE in the open like yours.

Has anyone noticed that their battery is discharging a lot quicker after the RBE installation?
Maybe it is just me not riding daily that I pay more attention to the battery now :unsure:
I noticed mine stutters a little on start up, as if battery struggling. Heated grips come on too which is odd.
 

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So, the bike threw a fault code on a ride out today after about 30 miles. Disconnected rapid bike and all good again. I’ve put this down to the O2 sensors being reversed. I’ve now switched them so will see if that improves things.
 

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So, the bike threw a fault code on a ride out today after about 30 miles. Disconnected rapid bike and all good again. I’ve put this down to the O2 sensors being reversed. I’ve now switched them so will see if that improves things.
Another 50 miles done today and all seems OK, Bike starts great cold but struggles as if battery flat when it’s hot, which is purely down to the AF modules. If I revert to standard it’s fine again
 

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Have you tried the default settings?
 
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