Scrambler Modification programme

13698 Views 50 Replies 15 Participants Last post by Silaxe, 7 mo ago

Silaxe

Discussion Starter · Jan 19, 2020 (Edited)

Well, I thought I would share my journey to make a few changes to my 2019 stereo metallic matt scrambler X.
Bought it in the UK and brought it back to France last summer and after a few months thinking about what to do, I am now ready to proceed.

The general idea is to:

put a single seat
shorten the back
put the license plate on a GS mudguard
change the blinkers
remove the airbox
change the gas cap
and put handlebar mirrors.

There are surely going to be other mods along the way as I am sure it will be hard to resist the urge ?.

The first pic is of the bike as it stand today.

Yes I have the knobby tyres and they are loud (above 70 km/h the tyres are actually louder than the exhaust...) but they do give a nice look to the bike. On dry surface I got used to banking in turns as much as with road tyres but I have not quite tried them on the wet.

There are actually a few modifications made to the bike already although they are quite uncuspicuous:

I have put the OEM tankbelt. While I do not plan on having a tank bag, the belt looks good and it does protect the tank from scratching near the seat. I am just a bit disappointed by the fact the hole for the gas cap is not very round but rather ovale...
I have put Wunderlich foot protectors to avoid getting my feet drenched should I get caught by the rain. I have had this on all my bikes and it really makes a difference. I have a post on this specifically for those who may be interested.
I have also put a brake pedal enlarger. I am actually not so interested in enlarging the pedal but it does raise the surface in contact with your foot a bit as I find the pedal way too low.

Voila.

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Silaxe

Discussion Starter · #41 · Jun 29, 2020

Ian_H said:
Coincedentally , a well known youtuber Lamb Chop Rides just got his Kawasaki remapped recently.
This is useful to watch as the tuner describes the fact you can "ignore" the low down A/F numbers at the bottom of the rev range when they examine the dyno traces. Some useful descriptions about interpreting dyno graphs.
Watch here (I've jumped towards the end for the relevant comments)

Thanks Ian_H,
I have started watching and it seems they clearly know what they are talking about.
Best - Silaxe

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Silaxe

Discussion Starter · #42 · Jun 29, 2020

TiM81 said:
That's pretty interesting results, thanks for sharing! I wonder why the A/F-ratio didn't change much in low rpm and it especially why it's infact little bit richer 🤔. I think it might have something to do with the fact that you have the original air box still in place and it may have restrict the air flow to the K&N filters. When I made this modification to my bike I could definitely notice the difference in low rpm's, which was considerably worse running and kind of jerky to drive slowly. I got that fixed pretty nicely with the Powercommander and the basic tune downloaded from the Dynojet's webpage, but after the real tuning in dyno it got much better. I like the comparable results you have now, it doesn't make much of a difference in power, as was expected, but I always wanted to do it just because of the look of the filter pod's. Have you decided are you going to keep the air box or remove it and go with the K&N's?

I think the light smoke coming from the filters is normal, with the original air box in place you just don't detect it. I haven't really notice anything while riding, even in traffic.

One thing that I've seen now that the air box is removed is that the crankcase breather filter should be fitted even higher, because there's now little bit of oil on top of the swing arm and starter motor. I'll try to get some kind of fix for it, but maybe just after this riding season.

Hi TiM81,
Even though the airbox is still in place, the filters get air from the open holes of the airbox as I have not covered them so the airflow to the filters should not be constrained..
Did more riding yesterday and the bike was smooth - no hesitations in low RPMs.
I still have to fully make up my mind with regards to removing the airbox. It looks cool (actually very cool - see attached) and so far works fine but I still have second thoughts. I also wonder whether it is going to mess with the bowden cables. Also, thanks for the heads up re crank breather.
More thinking to be done

Cheers - Silaxe

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TiM81

· #43 · Jun 30, 2020

It sure looks great as it is! 😃

I have to say it looks better than I expected, with both K&N's and air box in place.
The airbox removal took some serious thinking on my own, even though a had planned to do it before I even bought R9T. It's a whole different situation when you're holding a saw and think where should I start hacking it in pieces 😅

Btw, Do you have the air intake temp sensor in K&N or still in air box?

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Silaxe

Discussion Starter · #44 · Jun 30, 2020

I agree that while the airbox still in place does not allow to lighten the bike, it actuals looks pretty OK with it still in place with the filters on. I am going to use it that way for a while and then will see.
The air temps sensor is still in the box and I have put a small rubber plug to close the hole in the filter for now.

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TiM81

· #45 · Jul 1, 2020

I think that the air inside the air box will heat up pretty fast without the air flow going through it, so that probably has some effect to the A/F-ratio too. I think warmer air should lead to the ECU trying to lean the mixture, but I'm not exactly certain about that..

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Silaxe

Discussion Starter · #46 · Jul 1, 2020

Well the holes on each side of the air box where the intake pipes were connecting are left open so there should be airflow and cool air coming in, no?

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TiM81

· #47 · Jul 1, 2020

Oh yea, you're probably right about that, maybe there's not much of a difference in temperature.

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Apeiron

· #48 · Jul 8, 2020

Silaxe said:
I agree that while the airbox still in place does not allow to lighten the bike, it actuals looks pretty OK with it still in place with the filters on. I am going to use it that way for a while and then will see.
The air temps sensor is still in the box and I have put a small rubber plug to close the hole in the filter for now.

did you use a power commander 5 with your filters?

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Silaxe

Discussion Starter · #49 · Jul 9, 2020

Nope, not using anything to change the injection.

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KC’s-Pure

· #50 · 8 mo ago

Silaxe said:
Tail Tidy
The next thing I managed to (almost) finish is my tail tidy.
I have used the Rizoma under tail cover, Kellermann Bullet 1000 DF black indicators and the Rizoma electric wiring (Ref EE104-01). I also bought a rear wiring harness from BMW (ref 61 11 8 548 705) to get everything ready while I still used my bike.

View attachment 130151 View attachment 130152

There are plenty of bits and pieces needed to have a "tidy" set up.
I got BMW indicator connectors (ref 61 12 7 699 594), rubber nut covers from Rizoma (ref RB-084), cable sheath, special zip ties that attach to the little "winglets" (BMW ref 34 32 7 708 473), rubber plugs for the unneeded holes and a plastic bracket (ref 61 13 8 365 536) to clip the Rizoma connector for the brake, position and plate lights.
I have soldered all cables and used shrink tubing to make things clean. I have also used a black fabric tape where I was worried about chaffing (ref 83 30 0 402 345).

View attachment 130153 View attachment 130154

I have tested the set-up and it works!! and no error lights.
Once I have everything finalised it will be plug and play.

More info in the next post.

This is the cleanest install of tidy tail Kellerman/Rizome mod I have ever seen. 2 questions: 1, how did you BMW plastic bracket (ref 61 13 8 365 536) that attaches the Rizoma Wiring harness EE104-1 to fit in that hole on the the Rizoma tray? 2, where did you get the rubber plugs to fill the unused holes. Thanks for your consideration. Nice work...

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Silaxe

Discussion Starter · #51 · 7 mo ago (Edited)

KC’s-Pure said:
This is the cleanest install of tidy tail Kellerman/Rizome mod I have ever seen. 2 questions: 1, how did you BMW plastic bracket (ref 61 13 8 365 536) that attaches the Rizoma Wiring harness EE104-1 to fit in that hole on the the Rizoma tray? 2, where did you get the rubber plugs to fill the unused holes. Thanks for your consideration. Nice work...

Hi KC,
Thanks for your kind words. I wanted the finished look to feel "factory" level.
Apologies for not getting back to you before, had not connected in a long time.

For the bracket, I cut its base and made a hole in it and used a small round "button" so that the two parts would "plug" into each other with the tail tidy sandwiched in the middle.
The two parts are glued together but not to the plate. I attach a picture of the modified part.

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Wood Vehicle door

Font Gas Metal Automotive wheel system Bumper

For the rubber plugs, I ordered them on Alibaba and you can find them at the following address.
The large one is 13.5mm in diameter. Cannot recall what the diameter of the small ones is.
Maksey Rubber Plugs

Do not hesitate if you have more questions.
Best - Silaxe

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