I have been meaning to do this a long time ago but finding spare time these day with the family, kids and all is becoming very hard.
Never the less, my main goal is to have an actual test bench and results between flashed ECU and Piggy Back system.
I have a stock 2016 classic model [Euro 3] and several things bothered me with the bike:
I get the flash with several maps, and one of them included a reduced engine breaking.
The Brentune flash did fix some of all of my issues. Better rideability at low RPM, and definitely fixed the torque dip at Mid RPM.
The reduced engine breaking was not perfect, and needed more work/tweak which Brentuning was unwilling to do.
I believe as of 8/24/2020 they do not sell anymore maps with engine braking adjustment.
They do sell now what is called a Stage 2 ECU flash map which is apparently better than Stage 1 (what I have).
A year later, I purchase a Rapid Bike Racing module which is a Piggy-Back system.
This system reads both O2 OEM sensors and try to adjust the fueling maps to get a theoretical 13.2 AFR.
Getting 13.2 AFR target with a narrow band will never be 100% exact since a narrow band will only read Rich, Stoich or Lean. Stoich is 14.7 AFR which is good for emission but not the best for Engine performance which is around 13.2 AFR. So when the module sees that it is Stoich it will put more fuel. How much more fuel it does put to get to a theoretical 13.2 AFR? This I don't know, they have their own algorithm, and apparently they have in house testing for all the general narrowband sensors available for OEM manufacturers.
If you buy their My Tuning device (add-on) which is an O2 wideband, then the piggy-back will get the precise reading and will target on the fly 13.2 AFR or whatever value you target in the software.
Their system allows to adjust the engine braking by adding fuel at throttle decel. You can actually hear the bike popping POP POP POP POP at throttle decel.
As far I am concerned, for my own needs, the Rapid Bike suits them all.
It does ride better and I have control on Engine braking and control on all other types of adjustment that I want.
How does it compare to a flashed ECU, I can't tell for certain, but it feels more or less the same, and I would say there is more torque at low RPM for Rapid Bike but the Brentune is better at removing the Mid RPM torque dip.
One advantage of the Rapid Bike is that it will autotune and target 13.2 AFR no matter what mods you do on your bike. With a Flashed ECU, you always need to get a new map for your mods.
Now what I want to do for my own education, is to dyno all of the above settings.
I am looking at a testing scheme like that:
Now doing all of these dyno run in the same day, I have to say I have some doubts about the ECU adaptive features.
Example: I finish the dyno run #2 and want to do dyno run #1, after flashing the ECU back to stock it doesn't have time to do its adaptive fueling table.
This is where I would like some input from forum members.
What testing scheme would be the best.
Do all in same day or stretched over 2 weeks?
Cheers
Never the less, my main goal is to have an actual test bench and results between flashed ECU and Piggy Back system.
I have a stock 2016 classic model [Euro 3] and several things bothered me with the bike:
- Low RPM rideability
- High Engine braking
- Torque dip in Mid RPM
- On-Off Throttle
I get the flash with several maps, and one of them included a reduced engine breaking.
The Brentune flash did fix some of all of my issues. Better rideability at low RPM, and definitely fixed the torque dip at Mid RPM.
The reduced engine breaking was not perfect, and needed more work/tweak which Brentuning was unwilling to do.
I believe as of 8/24/2020 they do not sell anymore maps with engine braking adjustment.
They do sell now what is called a Stage 2 ECU flash map which is apparently better than Stage 1 (what I have).
A year later, I purchase a Rapid Bike Racing module which is a Piggy-Back system.
This system reads both O2 OEM sensors and try to adjust the fueling maps to get a theoretical 13.2 AFR.
Getting 13.2 AFR target with a narrow band will never be 100% exact since a narrow band will only read Rich, Stoich or Lean. Stoich is 14.7 AFR which is good for emission but not the best for Engine performance which is around 13.2 AFR. So when the module sees that it is Stoich it will put more fuel. How much more fuel it does put to get to a theoretical 13.2 AFR? This I don't know, they have their own algorithm, and apparently they have in house testing for all the general narrowband sensors available for OEM manufacturers.
If you buy their My Tuning device (add-on) which is an O2 wideband, then the piggy-back will get the precise reading and will target on the fly 13.2 AFR or whatever value you target in the software.
Their system allows to adjust the engine braking by adding fuel at throttle decel. You can actually hear the bike popping POP POP POP POP at throttle decel.
As far I am concerned, for my own needs, the Rapid Bike suits them all.
It does ride better and I have control on Engine braking and control on all other types of adjustment that I want.
How does it compare to a flashed ECU, I can't tell for certain, but it feels more or less the same, and I would say there is more torque at low RPM for Rapid Bike but the Brentune is better at removing the Mid RPM torque dip.
One advantage of the Rapid Bike is that it will autotune and target 13.2 AFR no matter what mods you do on your bike. With a Flashed ECU, you always need to get a new map for your mods.
Now what I want to do for my own education, is to dyno all of the above settings.
I am looking at a testing scheme like that:
- Stock ECU
- ECU flashed with Brentuning
- ECU flashed with Brentuning + Rapid Bike with My Tuning [Wideband]
- Stock ECU + Rapid Bike with My Tuning [Wideband]
Now doing all of these dyno run in the same day, I have to say I have some doubts about the ECU adaptive features.
Example: I finish the dyno run #2 and want to do dyno run #1, after flashing the ECU back to stock it doesn't have time to do its adaptive fueling table.
This is where I would like some input from forum members.
What testing scheme would be the best.
Do all in same day or stretched over 2 weeks?
Cheers
