[Norbi]

@Weegie you’ll look like your Avatar soon if you don’t use the search function first, before asking that kind of question

 

[45rake]

Received my Daedalus Minima Tail Tidy with Rizoma Club signals and under tail licence plate assembly. Very nice billet aluminum piece and very well packaged!

 

[45rake]

Installed today and no issues or faults on my 2021 R9T.

Much cleaner look.

 

[[email protected]]

Looks great in there! Love the Mclaren in the driveway there!

Some beautiful riding we have right now in CO, enjoy it!

 

[Santiago71]

I´m sharing the Daedalus Minima Tail Tidy installation on my BMW R9T Pure 2017, very satisfied with everything. The reason why I chose this was because I liked the quality and de design and because it is compatible with my saddles.



The only doubt I have is with the cables going from the board to de connectors, there is not much space and I am worried that they go thru a very tight space. Any ideas or suggestions?

Another thing, I am no completely happy with the wiring of the Swingarm License Plate Mount, I could not hide it as I expected. Any thoughts on this too?

 

[Weegie]

I must be super thick after reading about all these trouble free installs & how simple this is, so what in the world am I doing wrong

I'm currently installing a Minima to a 2017 Racer and having a little trouble.

The undertray plate butts very tightly against the plastic OEM piece just forward of it, it was a little troublesome getting it into position & lining up the fasteners but it will help stop dirt ingress and looks very neat

However I cannot get the tail light cabling on the Daedelus to route under the Aluminium plate. The plate is butted hard to the OEM plastic piece just forward of it and I cannot see any way that the cable would feed from the top of the Aluminuim plate to the bottom to feed through the rectangular gap in the plastic made for it. I don't know if this is specific to the racer or not, or perhaps my stupidity.

With the OEM tail light assembly there is a lower groove in the plastic to allow the OEM tail cable to run through, but with the Daedelus there isn't anything save a very small gap on the plate ridge on the top.

I've now just routed the cable over the top and there seems to be sufficient room after trial installing the seat, it's just not very elegant, but works well enough, but it still irked me that I was missing something.

The pictures look as if there is a gap but that's just shadow from the flash, there is no room between them either in the horizontal or vertical plane

 

[Dauphinais]

I must be super thick after reading about all these trouble free installs & how simple this is, so what in the world am I doing wrong

I'm currently installing a Minima to a 2017 Racer and having a little trouble.

The undertray plate butts very tightly against the plastic OEM piece just forward of it, it was a little troublesome getting it into position & lining up the fasteners but it will help stop dirt ingress and looks very neat

However I cannot get the tail light cabling on the Daedalus to route under the Aluminium plate. The plate is butted hard to the OEM plastic piece just forward of it and I cannot see any way that the cable would feed from the top of the Aluminuim plate to the bottom to feed through the rectangular gap in the plastic made for it. I don't know if this is specific to the racer or not, or perhaps my stupidity.

With the OEM tail light assembly there is a lower groove in the plastic to allow the OEM tail cable to run through, but with the Daedelus there isn't anything save a very small gap on the plate ridge on the top.

I've now just routed the cable over the top and there seems to be sufficient room after trial installing the seat, it's just not very elegant, but works well enough, but it still irked me that I was missing something.

The pictures look as if there is a gap but that's just shadow from the flash, there is no room between them either in the horizontal or vertical plane

I have the regular Daedalus tail tidy, and I ran into the same thing as you. I used my dremel tool to make the existing hole in the plastic a little larger until the connector could pass through.

Not ideal I know, but that was my solution. My guess is that perhaps the year of the bike has something to do with it. Daedalus proved their product out on an older bike for fit and function and then BMW went ahead and changed the plastic piece over time.

Hope this helps.

 

[Weegie]

I have the regular Daedalus tail tidy, and I ran into the same thing as you. I used my dremel tool to make the existing hole in the plastic a little larger until the connector could pass through.

Not ideal I know, but that was my solution. My guess is that perhaps the year of the bike has something to do with it. Daedalus proved their product out on an older bike for fit and function and then BMW went ahead and changed the plastic piece over time.

Hope this helps.

Thanks, to do that with the racer I'd probably have to dremel off the top section of the slot and I'm not sure that it would be a particularly good idea as it might weaken the plastic moulding.

It's good to know though that others have came across the same problem. Ideally a small scallop on the Aluminuim plate Daedelus supply would allow the cable to pass through and I could get it modified at my local machine shop, but in reality it's probably more trouble than it's worth.

There appears to be more than adequate space to pass the cable over the top, so I'll leave it that for now rather than modify the OEM parts, or risk getting the anodizing all marked up by extra machining operations.

I'll post up some pictures of the install when it's complete as I opted for Kellerman Rhombus S Extreme indicators and I haven't seen anybody use them yet onto a 9T.

As an aside I also installed the larger Kellerman Rhombus Extreme onto the front using the i.Lash B1 cables, but needed to also install a 20 Ohm resistor in parallel to stop a fast flash on the front. I just had some 20 Ohm resistors lying around so that's what got used.

On the Dadelus site they make a statement about the 2017 bikes needing an additional 25 Ohm resistor to stop errors when the ignition is switched on but the engine isn't running with inidcators, so I'm expecting I'll need to do the same on the rear.

I've yet to run the engine to test it, the weather here is pretty atrocious.

John

 

[Weegie]

I'm still struggling here, I must be a complete clutz as apart from reports involving the dreaded Canus every review and install I've read so far indicates that installing any of the 2 Daedulus tail tidies is plug and play and at the moment for me it's more like plug and pray.

The bike is a 2017 Racer, I've noticed that the rear subframe (?) on the bikes seems to differ dependent on the model, some having tubular (open at the rear) sections other using (closed) rectangular sections, the Racer uses the latter.

I've had to route the cable over the top of the bracing bar on the subframe as the Daedelus rear plate installs tight against the rear mudguard (as reported above) and now when trialling the rear seat hump onto the bike I've noticed that the tail light sits higher than the frame. This results in the seat hump contacting the light assembly, prior to snugging onto the tab in the frame that locates it.

That leaves a gap of around 6mm between the seat hump mounting hole and tab, it's not an insurmountable problem, I'm planning to use rubber penny washers and a longer fastener to locate the seat hump.

In the picture the green arrow shows the seat hump sitting onto the rear light; the red arrow highlighting the gap between the locating tang in the hump and the fitting in the subframe it butts onto

It just leaves me mystified that this hasn't been mentioned and wondering if I was doing something incredibly stupid, that was escaping my (admittedly) limited intellect.

I'm not having a pop at Deadelus, they can't test every model and every year and are doing a brilliant job supporting owners with problems and niggles. If anything it's BMW who seem to keep tinkering and making minor build changes.

The Minima is a beautifully constructed and well made item and the problems I've run up against have not diminished my enthusiasm for it, it will go on come hell or high water.

 

[BaldyDave]

Sorry if I've missed something on this thread @Weegie but have you tried to reach out to Daedalus themselves, or see if @[email protected] on here can give you an assist? They are normally very responsive and do seem to genuinely care about their customers.

 

[Weegie]

@BaldyDave no I haven't its certainly an idea, was perhaps hoping they kept an eye out on here.

I'll drop them a line to see what they say.........thanks

John

 

[[email protected]]

Just responded! Our tutorial is a bit out of date and needs an update but to install the tidy and correctly route the wiring you would remove the 2 screws closest to the tidy on the plastic battery cover (the unit that touches the tidy in your photo there!) and you can feed the wire underneath between the frame and the plastic, keeps it tidy and gives plenty of room for the wire.

The other issue is that on your tidy, the optional spacers are currently installed between the light strip section and what we call the base plate, or the unit where the circuit board mounts. Those are purely optional but the idea for those is to keep the gap under the cowl or seat nice and close.

spacers installed when using the passenger seat, raises the light section 6mm to keep that gap tight
no spacers when using the cowl to drop the light section back down, keeps the gap between the cowl and tidy in the right position. check out page 8 of Our Tutorial for details on how to swap the spacers out

Hope that clears it up!

 

[Weegie]

Thanks Sal for the response

A bit odd re the spacers, I ASS-umed the spacers were not installed as spacers were included separately in a bag included with the kit

I managed to split the LED section from the base plate, but it's quite difficult to make out the location of the spacers, my best guess is it's as indicated by the green arrow with the red arrow denoting the split line. The split line, if that is what it is, can barely be made out and can't be seen on the back or front faces.

If I have correctly identified the spacer I am struggling to understand how to separate them without marking the components.

Could you clarify if that is the spacer, the split line and how I go about separating them?

John

 

[[email protected]]

John,

The spacer I refer to is this unit here

You are right, these are the ones that came in the baggy in your kit. You would remove that spacer when running the rear cowl.

In the photo you sent me above; if you bolt it back together so there is no gap without installing the spacers, your cowl will fit without issue.

Thanks!

Sal

 

[Weegie]

Hi Sal

I won't take up any more of your time, the spacers were supplied loose in the kit and were never installed.

I did observe a small gap on one side of the unit when cinched down on the bolts, this was present before I broke them apart and is still present to a lesser degree I'd guess perhaps 2mm max, the other side is flush.

Checked again and I still have the gap shown on post #69, which prevents the retaining cap screw from engaging into the hump, it's very close though.

It must be something I'm doing and dammed if I can figure it, it's not a biggie, and not your problem. You cannot have sold hundreds of these units without issue, so it has to be my ineptitude or unique to my bike

I have 2 options anyway, I can either space the gap with rubber washers to provide support for the hump, or I can lower the Aluminuim plate with spacers.

For now I'm just using a longer bolt to engage the hump, some rubber washers to take up the gap, these compress down and the tail hump rests on the Minima, so it really isn't an issue.

Appreciate the effort and time, once I have it all back together I'll post up a couple of pictures.

Thanks again

John

 

[Santiago71]

John,

The spacer I refer to is this unit here

View attachment 148800

You are right, these are the ones that came in the baggy in your kit. You would remove that spacer when running the rear cowl.

In the photo you sent me above; if you bolt it back together so there is no gap without installing the spacers, your cowl will fit without issue.

Thanks!

Sal

I was not able to break apart the two parts in order to be able to add the spacer. I unscrew the two bolts but the two parts would not come apart. Any help with this? Thank you very much!

 

[Santiago71]

Just responded! Our tutorial is a bit out of date and needs an update but to install the tidy and correctly route the wiring you would remove the 2 screws closest to the tidy on the plastic battery cover (the unit that touches the tidy in your photo there!) and you can feed the wire underneath between the frame and the plastic, keeps it tidy and gives plenty of room for the wire.

The other issue is that on your tidy, the optional spacers are currently installed between the light strip section and what we call the base plate, or the unit where the circuit board mounts. Those are purely optional but the idea for those is to keep the gap under the cowl or seat nice and close.

spacers installed when using the passenger seat, raises the light section 6mm to keep that gap tight
no spacers when using the cowl to drop the light section back down, keeps the gap between the cowl and tidy in the right position. check out page 8 of Our Tutorial for details on how to swap the spacers out

Hope that clears it up!

Is it possible if you share some more information on the route of the wiring. I really don´t understand your kind explanation. This is how I set it up but the two cables are under a lot of stress dew to the tight space where they have to go through. Some pictures to illustrate:

 

[Santiago71]

Is it possible if you share some more information on the route of the wiring. I really don´t understand your kind explanation. This is how I set it up but the two cables are under a lot of stress dew to the tight space where they have to go through. Some pictures to illustrate:

View attachment 148989

View attachment 148990

I was not able to break apart the two parts in order to be able to add the spacer. I unscrew the two bolts but the two parts would not come apart. Any help with this? Thank you very much!

Someone from Daedalus please can you reply? Thanks!!!

 

[[email protected]]

Hi! I'm sorry I haven't been monitoring this page as often as I should! I will get some photos that show clearly what I'm talking about first thing tomorrow

 

[[email protected]]

Ok Sorry not the next day but here we are.

Remove these 2 bolts pointed to when installing the tidy, it will let that factory plastic section drop a little, giving you the ability to run the main connector through the little "bump" circled in the second photo here.

Last 2 photos show what it should look like when done. Plenty of room/slack on the main cable. Apologies for the delay on this but the tutorial will be updated in a couple weeks here so there's no more confusion!