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For bikes built before model year 2017 you won't get an error on the dash. There is a "silent" error when you hook up a GS-911 diagnostics gadget or the bike dealer connects to your bike, but it doesn't affect the running of he bike. I have a 2014 bike and it's run completely fine for the best part of 5 years without the flapper valve.
thanks for the feedback. I was concerned about the precheck when the bike checks the valve unit and noticing it not there. I found this video on youtube ,
. the owner removes the valve unit but leaves the motor attached. What are your thoughts on this? my assumption is leaving the motor attached, plugged in, avoids any errors. Or am I wrong and theres no difference between keeping the motor plugged in or not?( ie the same silent error will be present with or without motor?)
 

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That looks like a good idea.
The servo unit pulling the bowden cables, opening and closing the flap, has nothing to do with the electronics.
The ECU wouldn't even know that the cables have been removed.
I doubt there would even an error.
 

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Removing the motor will throw an error ... connecting a Healtech Servo Eliminator resolves it ..

I removed the valve and motor and installed the HSE ... looks better, and prefer to remove anything that's redundant.
 

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Removing the motor will throw an error ... connecting a Healtech Servo Eliminator resolves it ..

I removed the valve and motor and installed the HSE ... looks better, and prefer to remove anything that's redundant.
to be completely honest I'd prefer to have the motor removed as well. Will have a look for a similar product here in south africa
 

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Removing the motor will throw an error ... connecting a Healtech Servo Eliminator resolves it ..

I removed the valve and motor and installed the HSE ... looks better, and prefer to remove anything that's redundant.
I agree.
Cleans up the area nicely.
Wiring with ESE can be tucked under the seat.
 

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I removed my flapper on a 2018 urban.
I found that during initial warm up in first 3 miles the bike runs noticeably leaner with slight hesitation. Runs fine and lovely with more consistent exhaust noise when warm.
I also noticed that the engine warms up quicker with the flapper. Similar engine temperature after 5 miles or so with or without.

My conclusion is the flapper helps the catalyst and engine to get up to temperature earlier after startup. This obviously helps emissions for euro4.
Ive actually refitted it until Im out of warranty.
Forgive me, but without having any way to accurately measure the exhaust gasses this is of no more value than any other speculation. What we do know is this type of device is often used in the automotive world for sound pollution control. Additionally, as many here will contest, the presence of the valve doesn't seem to make any significant change in performance.

As there is no clear change in engine behavior, I'm willing to say that a negligible difference is effectively the same as no change at all. Until someone is willing to get on the dyno, complete controlled testing of engine performance and exhaust gas composition, everything is speculation.
 

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Oh it's all speculation! it's also justification for removing a big ugly box and cables attached to the exhaust.

It didn't make any difference to how my bike rides at all, but it cleaned it up (i hate clutter) and it sounds nicer and there's less weight and less to go wrong, that's a win/win and stuff the euro4 regs, couldn't care less about them, it's not like i'm driving a 40t HGV, i'm riding a bike.
 

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I almost purchased a pipe from my local Auto Parts store for under $5, but it wouldn't have been Stainless Steel and I still needed to cut a bit to make it fit.

I went to a local Muffler Shop and for $15 was able to get a cut Stainless Steel (304) pipe.
(For those wanting to DIY - try to avoid Aluminized Steel, it might be cheaper and it'll do the job, but it is prone to rust and the finish won't match the OE Exhaust nor most Aftermarket ones)

I did add some muffler\exhaust sealant as a precaution. Feeling around with the bike on, I felt no leaks, it looks real good, and because it is the same material as my Catless Akrapovic Headers and OEM Akrapovic twin cans, it'll bronze up and blend in real nice. Really happy I went the DIY route to save some $$$



 

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If anyone is running a full titanium system and wants to maintain continuity of material, I can highly recommend the Super Corse product. I purchased mine online from A&J Cycles and though it is sourced from Taipei, the quality and fitment are spot on. Note that mine did include Super Corse branding on the outside diameter of the raised section that is not denoted in most of the stock photos. I actually don't mind it and if it is something that is aesthetically important to you, you can rotate the spool so that the logo is not visible from the left side of the bike or from above.
127027
 

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Oh it's all speculation! it's also justification for removing a big ugly box and cables attached to the exhaust.

It didn't make any difference to how my bike rides at all, but it cleaned it up (i hate clutter) and it sounds nicer and there's less weight and less to go wrong, that's a win/win and stuff the euro4 regs, couldn't care less about them, it's not like i'm driving a 40t HGV, i'm riding a bike.
Plus, the sound and a grin factor is worth the hassle.
 

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Before...



During...



And after...



Sounds great, looks much better and no warning lights - just need to take it out for a ride.
Were did you put the ESE module? I’m about to do the same and from what i saw there isnt much space to put it under the seat...
 

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Just remove the flap valve today and install the healtech ESE module, just found a good location away from the elements
127566
 

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Are the Healtech and RevZilla units both doing the same job?
Not sure why, but, I just ordered the RevZilla one and then realised I could have bought Healtech in UK. Doh.
Ken.
 
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