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EDIT : The following procedure is for a quick and dirty disconnection, or destined to someone who doesn't care about keeping the cables attached to the flapper assembly or just wants to try it out. If you'd prefer a cleaner mod, do familiarize yourself with this post first then check out this post by @LWIRWA. His take on it keeps the plastic housing on the pipe, as it's welded in place anyway, but gets rid of the cables.

I offered member @RninetDOG to provide a tiny how-to guide regarding the disconnection of flap cables, so I thought that doing it here might be best.

Here we go :

0) We'll need a 10mm flat spanner as well as a ratchet wrench with a Torx T25 bit. Some thread-locker might be advisable.

1) Locate the two screws on the flap's plastic housing. One is visible from the side-stand side of the bike, the other one will be easier to reach from the other side. It's basically facing the ground, laying down will help. Remove them.

View attachment 144565

2) Remove the plastic housing by sliding it towards you. You'll be greeted by this :

View attachment 144566

On this picture one of the two little brass tabs is removed from its nest for illustration purposes. Use the 10mm spanner to unscrew the nuts which hold the cables to the metal housing. Pull the cables towards you. Push down on both of the brass tabs, they should dislocate easily and the cables spring straight out like this :

View attachment 144567

4)

From there on it's already time to reassemble everything. Push the cables back in position and tighten the 10mm nuts, leaving the tabs hanging somewhere in the middle of the "cup" of the flap, as it'll be easier to then reinstall the plastic housing.

The screws which hold the plastic housing should have some threadlock on their thread. As mine were extremely easy to screw out and back in, I didn't bother to clean the threads and just applied a tiny amount of medium strength threadlock and tightened by hand.

That's all !

I couldn't recommend trying this solution out highly enough before any slip-on purchase or further modification. Totally reversible in mere minutes, very effective at bringing back some much-missed exhaust sound (especially at low revs / small throttle openings), and completely free to boot. It might be just enough for you, as it was for me. Do try it !
Hello - I recently took possession of a 2021 R9T Classic, having sold my F800S, which had a glorious exhaust note (thanks to an aftermarket Akrapovic exhaust with its dB killer removed) and was not impressed with the Euro 5 compliant sound that my new bike produced. Yesterday, I followed the procedure you generously provided and, my word, what a difference! Bigger, fatter bass notes and even some popping during deceleration. I still prefer the exhaust note of the F800S, with its bubbling and glorious gurgling, but I prefer design features and the flat twin of R Nine T to my former bike. Again, thanks for sharing. :):cool::love:
 

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2021 Scrambler
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Fwiw.... I've had the cables off my 2021 Scambler flapper for a few weeks now.... bike is only a month old. Intially on the first few cold starts, during the raised rev warm up cycle, the motor would hesitate twice a few seconds apart... almost stall.... this has since gone away. Overall... now.... exhaust sounds better and yes... some burbles on trailing throttle.... I was thinking of getting some catless header pipes down the road.... but probally won't now.

Now.... I wonder if it will be picked up at the first service and I'll get spanked?
 

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Hi Guys,
Where can I purchase the eliminator pipe section in QLD? I live in the Sunshine Coast and just bought the new RnineT option 719

also will in throw a code if I just take the wires off being the brand new model?
Cheers
 

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Hi Guys,
Where can I purchase the eliminator pipe section in QLD? I live in the Sunshine Coast and just bought the new RnineT option 719

also will in throw a code if I just take the wires off being the brand new model?
Cheers
If a new bike the flapper part is welded to the headers now..... so can't take it off. I just disconnected the cables so the flap remains open.... 2 minute job.... 5 minutes if you are old and fat (getting up off the floor... twice).... no codes.... maybe a splutter or two on start up for a few start cycles.... but that seems to go.... and we are talking cables..... not (electrical) wires as such.
 

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If a new bike the flapper part is welded to the headers now..... so can't take it off. I just disconnected the cables so the flap remains open.... 2 minute job.... 5 minutes if you are old and fat (getting up off the floor... twice).... no codes.... maybe a splutter or two on start up for a few start cycles.... but that seems to go.... and we are talking cables..... not (electrical) wires as such.
Thanks so much! That’s great advice. Really appreciate it. Have a great Christmas
 

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If a new bike the flapper part is welded to the headers now..... so can't take it off. I just disconnected the cables so the flap remains open.... 2 minute job.... 5 minutes if you are old and fat (getting up off the floor... twice).... no codes.... maybe a splutter or two on start up for a few start cycles.... but that seems to go.... and we are talking cables..... not (electrical) wires as such.
I'm a nervous Nelly with these new fangled computer controlled bikes BUT took a brave step and disconnected my cables. Ya know what, the world kept spinning and my bike sounded better. :)
 

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Every video I watch shows the whole exhaust flapper being removed, does anyone have a video on just how to take the existing cables off, being it’s a 2021 bike. Cheers
On the exhaust flap housing.... I undid the 2 screws..... then removed the cover to expose the pulley with the two cable ends attached to it.

Using a spanner I loosend the cable tensioning nuts to slacken the cable..... removed the cable ends from the pulley.... tightend the cable nuts.... cover back on .... and away you go...

Whatever you do.... don't get in a flap over it.... remember today is the day you're deflapping!
 

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On the exhaust flap housing.... I undid the 2 screws..... then removed the cover to expose the pulley with the two cable ends attached to it.

Using a spanner I loosend the cable tensioning nuts to slacken the cable..... removed the cable ends from the pulley.... tightend the cable nuts.... cover back on .... and away you go...

Whatever you do.... don't get in a flap over it.... remember today is the day you're deflapping!
Thanks heaps!!
 

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2021 R nineT Option 719, Triumph Bobber
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Thanks heaps for the pic, that helps a lot. I’m just not sure when I take the cables off that wheel, do I just leave them sit in there loose and screw the plastic cover back on?
Yes that's what I did, though I have subsequently hooked the cables back up as the cold start is louder than I anticipated.
 

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Any trouble with the cables still connected to the motor at the other end and just loose at the exhaust?
Also how good did it sound when riding with them taken off?
Just leave them loose with the cover re installed.
I ran mine before the cover went back on, interesting to watch the inner cables working in tandem but doing nothing.
The tone was more appealing, a little deeper and slightly louder but under no consideration could it be called noisy.
 

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2021 R nineT Option 719, Triumph Bobber
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Any trouble with the cables still connected to the motor at the other end and just loose at the exhaust?
Also how good did it sound when riding with them taken off?
I ride with ear plugs and to be honest I was ok with the sound as it was, it was more out of curiosity. Its a five minute job, all you need is the correct torx driver. Try it and see for yourself.
 

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I ride with ear plugs and to be honest I was ok with the sound as it was, it was more out of curiosity. Its a five minute job, all you need is the correct torx driver. Try it and see for yourself.
Hi guys, thanks for all your advice.
I removed the cables today like you said, it was easy and didn’t take long. I also bought a dramel and went to work on grinding the welds off the DB killers (baffles) this was a much hard and longer job to do. But with a lot of patients I managed to get the job done. Wow what a difference, it sounds so good!! Thanks again for all the advice. Cheers
 

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If a new bike the flapper part is welded to the headers now..... so can't take it off. I just disconnected the cables so the flap remains open.... 2 minute job.... 5 minutes if you are old and fat (getting up off the floor... twice).... no codes.... maybe a splutter or two on start up for a few start cycles.... but that seems to go.... and we are talking cables..... not (electrical) wires as such.
Thanks heaps, I did it today and also spent ages grinding the baffle welds out. Just a quick question. I thought when you rev the bike it would open the valves which made me think they might be closed and the cables open it when you throttle up, just wanted to check now I took the cables off it’s not permanently closed?
that taking them off leaves it permanently open? Cheers
 

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Thanks heaps, I did it today and also spent ages grinding the baffle welds out. Just a quick question. I thought when you rev the bike it would open the valves which made me think they might be closed and the cables open it when you throttle up, just wanted to check now I took the cables off it’s not permanently closed?
that taking them off leaves it permanently open? Cheers
It's spring loaded. When the cables are disconnected the spring holds the valve in the full open position.
 

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Hi guys, thanks for all your advice.
I removed the cables today like you said, it was easy and didn’t take long. I also bought a dramel and went to work on grinding the welds off the DB killers (baffles) this was a much hard and longer job to do. But with a lot of patients I managed to get the job done. Wow what a difference, it sounds so good!! Thanks again for all the advice. Cheers
Nice! Was going to try this on a brand new rninet as well. Do you have a video of the sound by any chance?
 
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