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Yep, I bought this very item, look quality and the extra length of the knob works perfectly in the indented area under the seat/hump where the screw goes into the hole. Oh and the included lock washer is a nice touch that makes everything feel like its going to stay where you put it.
Agreed, I have the same item and so far it's been perfect and hasn't oxidised or lost grip.
 

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Have you ever seen a more primitive or less BMW-like device than the OE screw that secures the pillion seat (and/ or the rear cowl/ hump) from below? If - as is more than likely - crud and mud gets plastered onto the underside of the rear sub-frame of the bike it would make locating and removing that screw very tricky indeed. And even though my R9T was as clean as a whistle when it arrived, I still had the greatest difficulty removing that screw with the pathetic toy-like key/ tool that BMW provides. Enter from E-Bay a nicely-made brass knurled tool - left in the first pic below - that requires only the fingers to fit and remove. It is chunky enough and protrudes far enough down to enable one to get a good grip in it, and is secured by a good-sized spring-washer, while a small rubber o-ring takes care of moisture entering the thread in this very exposed position. I have put a short length of PVC tube over the end of the tool to keep it free of dirt, and will probably fill-in the open end with some silicone later, to complete the job. Quite affordable at around $AUD21, but taking almost seven (7) weeks for delivery from China in these disrupted times. Recommended.

Later edit:
I didn't need to put a blob of silicone into the open lower end of the PVC tube, having found a small black plastic cap that is an exact push-fit Pix below. Job now done. I realise that I will hardly ever need to access the atom-sized
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space below the pillion-seat, unless I wish to store a credit card there - which is about as much as it would take - but I will remove from the toolkit pouch the screwdriver handle used for topping-up the engine oil, and carry that with me if on longer rides.

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I have that exact replacement bolt too, however, the placment of the cross bar that marry both sides of my Hepco Becker Pannier rack crosses just before where the bolt goes in so I really can’t get my fingers around the knerled head to turn. Needed to take a pliers to it to get it to turn if in place for a week or so. Eliminated it altogether by changing seat out to solo seat. No one will ride with me anyway so eliminated the pillon with a luggage carrying rack. It bolts on from the top so now I have to take out the four top bolts to remove rack but at least no contortions to get to.
 

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I have that exact replacement bolt too, however, the placment of the cross bar that marry both sides of my Hepco Becker Pannier rack crosses just before where the bolt goes in so I really can’t get my fingers around the knerled head to turn. Needed to take a pliers to it to get it to turn if in place for a week or so. Eliminated it altogether by changing seat out to solo seat. No one will ride with me anyway so eliminated the pillon with a luggage carrying rack. It bolts on from the top so now I have to take out the four top bolts to remove rack but at least no contortions to get to.

Good move, wesch!
 

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That was a modification I made day one. Seems it would have made more sense to put the seat on a hinge, thus you couldn’t readily walk off with it and then put a lock on the side that works with the ignition key like the gas cap. Those German engineers are very minimalists no frills fellas. I used lock graphite (dry) as an anti seize lube on the threads. I fabricated my own luggage tail and that bolt is part of the attachment hardware, it also holds my rear camera mount from the dash cam. Worked out pretty well.
 

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I just soldered a wing nut onto the same thread screw.

Just remembered, I also have a replacement with finger top like yours, but needed a longer screw when I added the tail today.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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I just spent the last two hours tearing my house and shed apart looking for that blasted key...... only to find out that my Evotech tail tidy uses a normal allen bolt, but longer..... DOH!
 

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Actually, I have one of those finger bolt thingies but need to check whether it still works with the Sargent seat pod. I'll add that to today's list of tasks, the other bing to buy some bog roll from the supermarket!!!

None left here. Some supermarkets have had to call-in the pleece to patrol the aisles! Madness!!
 
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2020 BMW R9T Pure, Ali tank.
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I
Have you ever seen a more primitive or less BMW-like device than the OE screw that secures the pillion seat (and/ or the rear cowl/ hump) from below? If - as is more than likely - crud and mud gets plastered onto the underside of the rear sub-frame of the bike it would make locating and removing that screw very tricky indeed. And even though my R9T was as clean as a whistle when it arrived, I still had the greatest difficulty removing that screw with the pathetic toy-like key/ tool that BMW provides. Enter from E-Bay a nicely-made brass knurled tool - left in the first pic below - that requires only the fingers to fit and remove. It is chunky enough and protrudes far enough down to enable one to get a good grip in it, and is secured by a good-sized spring-washer, while a small rubber o-ring takes care of moisture entering the thread in this very exposed position. I have put a short length of PVC tube over the end of the tool to keep it free of dirt, and will probably fill-in the open end with some silicone later, to complete the job. Quite affordable at around $AUD21, but taking almost seven (7) weeks for delivery from China in these disrupted times. Recommended.

Later edit:
I didn't need to put a blob of silicone into the open lower end of the PVC tube, having found a small black plastic cap that is an exact push-fit Pix below. Job now done. I realise that I will hardly ever need to access the atom-sized View attachment 130067 View attachment 130068 space below the pillion-seat, unless I wish to store a credit card there - which is about as much as it would take - but I will remove from the toolkit pouch the screwdriver handle used for topping-up the engine oil, and carry that with me if on longer rides.

View attachment 130062 View attachment 130063 View attachment 130064
I think you’ll find, that thing is made from anodised Aluminium and not brass.
Still nice, I have one.
Ken.
 

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I think you’ll find, that thing is made from anodised Aluminium and not brass.
Still nice, I have one.
Ken.

Quite correct, thanks - I checked with the vendor's website! Looks brassy...
 
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Hand screw for rear seat removal.

Does anyone know of a UK supplier for the tool less rear seat retaining screw.
Traded my bike in and forgot to remove mine.
Have ordered one but it’s coming from China....last item I ordered from there never arrived.
Cheers, Ken.
 

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The one I ordered, made from ?? arrived last week and there was 2 in the packet!
So, if anyone in UK want one free issue, please pm a delivery address to me and I’ll get Wifey to ship one next time she’s in Post Office.
Cheers, Ken.
PS. First ‘I’ll take it’ posted here gets it. UK only.
 

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The one I ordered, made from chinesium arrived last week and there was 2 in the packet!
So, if anyone in UK want one free issue, please pm a delivery address to me and I’ll get Wifey to ship one next time she’s in Post Office.
Cheers, Ken.
PS. First ‘I’ll take it’ posted here gets it. UK only.
Hey Ken, I think the original German issue is ?? anyway, it’s not aluminum but it is non-ferrous what ever it is, ..it just has a rubber/plastic cover over it and it’s to bulky, I cut the cover off my key, it looks like a wing nut, drilled one side and put it on my key chain, the one I keep in my pocket. My bike key is on a leather lanyard so it doesn’t scratch the tank. One thing I’ve heard from a couple a BimmerBuddies is how easy it is to steel the seat when no tool is necessary. They sell for considerable bucks. I checked on my Corbin and it’s over $500, Nice score very quickly achieved, ...Kind of like leaving your iPhone on the hood of your car.... Be careful where you park it ... just a thought. .....Blitz
 

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Hey Ken, I think the original German issue is Chinesium anyway, it’s not aluminum but it is non-ferrous what ever it is, ..it just has a rubber/plastic cover over it and it’s to bulky, I cut the cover off my key, it looks like a wing nut, drilled one side and put it on my key chain, the one I keep in my pocket. My bike key is on a leather lanyard so it doesn’t scratch the tank. One thing I’ve heard from a couple a BimmerBuddies is how easy it is to steel the seat when no tool is necessary. They sell for considerable bucks. I checked on my Corbin and it’s over $500, Nice score very quickly achieved, ...Kind of like leaving your iPhone on the hood of your car.... Be careful where you park it ... just a thought. .....Blitz
If I was going to steal a seat for a R9T I would go equipped at all times with the BMW key, just in case the opportunity arose.
Cheers,Ken.
PS. I think I’m the only one in the UK with an R9T ;) as I’ve had mine (2) for 16 months now and yet to see another when out and about!
 
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