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Did a small disaster today, went down in the garage with the intention to install the Chinese rear hugger I had since a while.
I found the instructions for installing the Puig which is the same exact shape, for getting some guidance and to read the torque specs for the two screws. Found no mention on the potential issue I would have faced. So when undoing the first (on the rear brake calliper), all went ok then I extracted the second one from the paralever torque arm.... and BANG! The arm moved, probably due to the load of the bike weight on the suspension...so the hole was not aligned anymore and no effort could move and recenter it. A central stand would have helped, to the point this is now my top next expense... (anybody has advice about that?) See here...

View attachment 137292
When i fitted my Puig i used a small bottle jack to support the rear hub when i removed the bolt. This worked for me and the joint did not separate, but i would imagine the same technique could be used to jack the hub back into position?
Good luck!
 

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2016 RNineT Classic
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Did a small disaster today,. (anybody has advice about that?) See here...

View attachment 137292
Hey, I had just watched this video earlier today (your fault!)


and it shows that the rear wheel needs to be at “zero gravity”, so if you find a way to lift it ((by the side stand maybe), you should be ok?
 

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Oh no......see these videos for possible assistance. I used a small jack like in the Video in order to install and then remove my Puig hugger.


 

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bottle jack to lift, seems to be the consensus and it is the same method that I had used to install the Puig hugger, please ensure that the hole is aligned or you risk damaging the bolt threads.
 

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R1200 NineT Urban GS
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it shows that the rear wheel needs to be at “zero gravity”, so if you find a way to lift it ((by the side stand maybe), you should be ok?
Yes, that's what I discovered, unfortunately after removing the bolt... however, first of all thank you and all the others for the advice, a friend is coming to my house in the next days to help me lift the bike and re-center it. Shall not be an impossible task...

What makes me mad is that I did find instructions (a pdf) that didn't mention it, I should have gone to YouTube instead...

Well, I'll keep you posted...
 

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What makes me mad is that I did find instructions (a pdf) that didn't mention it, I should have gone to YouTube instead....
YouTube can be a great resource for maintenance, repairs, and mods. With anything fairly common you can usually find a few how-to videos. It's helped me a few times already.

Good luck getting it put back together this week!
 

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Done with very small effort, my friend came, we lifted the bike using a car jack. Few minutes and the thing was back operational.

137344


🙃
 

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I ordered a tool-less pillion seat bolt from a Chinese eBay merchant one week ago, and it appeared shipping would take a month or more, but the new bolt arrived in the mail today! I know there are 2-3 threads about this cheap mod already, but I wanted to include a photo of the bolt so folks can see its size, with the standard ignition key next to it for perspective. I had worried if the knurled end was too small whether I'd be able to grip it well enough to tighten and loosen it. If it didn't work, oh well, it wasn't very expensive. But no worries, as the end is much larger than I expected. The product's quality is very good, and this is SO much easier than using a wrench or Torx bit and ratchet with the OEM bolt.
Seat bolt.jpg
 

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2017 Classic
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I ordered a tool-less pillion seat bolt from a Chinese eBay merchant one week ago, and it appeared shipping would take a month or more, but the new bolt arrived in the mail today! I know there are 2-3 threads about this cheap mod already, but I wanted to include a photo of the bolt so folks can see its size, with the standard ignition key next to it for perspective. I had worried if the knurled end was too small whether I'd be able to grip it well enough to tighten and loosen it. If it didn't work, oh well, it wasn't very expensive. But no worries, as the end is much larger than I expected. The product's quality is very good, and this is SO much easier than using a wrench or Torx bit and ratchet with the OEM bolt.
View attachment 137347
Many thanks, I have ordered one.
 

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Wash and buff the dog or the bike? Maybe both??? ;)
 
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I use one of those. The stock bolt is kind of silly. I use the above with a spring washer and a dab of blue (soft) thread locker on it. That little o-ring will be dead and gone in short order.
I'd thought about using thread locker but didn't have any. So this evening I rode to a local auto parts store to buy some Blue Loctite - first time I've ever bought any if you can believe it. Added a dab to the tool-less seat bolt, plus to the plastic bolts which hold my license plate on. (Will replace those this winter.)

After I finished with the Loctite I cleaned up the bike - everything but the wheels, which will take more time but I'll try to get to them this weekend. I rode home on wet roads one day last week and the dirty bike had been bugging me since. It's nice to see my new baby (mostly) clean again!
 

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I repositioned the stock mirror stalks just slightly, trying to widen the view a bit. I'm still planning to install a set of mirror extenders or different mirrors, but I had to at least try this.

I also adjusted the headlight direction downward a bit, hoping the high beam provides better illumination of the road instead of the sky. My commute home this evening will tell me if it was enough, and if not I'll adjust it again.

EDITED: The ride home tonight showed a huge improvement in the headlight on the rural road I usually take home. The low beam illuminated the road closer to me like it should instead of further in front of me, and the high beam actually lit up the ground instead of the sky and trees! Hard to believe what a difference a very small adjustment made. I put my tools in my backpack when I left for work, just in case I wanted to stop somewhere to make a further adjustment, but it was fine. I'll likely have to adjust it again once I mod the suspension this winter, but for now this is much, much better. Tonight was the safest I've felt riding this new bike in the dark since I bought it. :)
 

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I got completely fed up with the awful design of the spring clip in the stock rear hump after the second time it broke. Especially as it was only the second time I’d taken the cover off when it broke the second time.

I removed the remnants of the spring then built up a couple of ‘pads’ on the back of the cover using PU adhesive (Tiger seal or equivalent). I then embedded a couple of Neodymium magnets in the adhesive and bonded a couple of washers to the hump where the magnets would align. Given the distance to bridge I ended up using two magnets per side (check the polarity so they don’t repel rather than attract.

Hey presto, a hump cover that doesn’t fall apart when you need to access essential Covid equipment - face mask, hand sanitizer etc....



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