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Battery Terminals Access DIY

80K views 38 replies 23 participants last post by  dan.godeaumtl  
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
I've seen a few posts on this forum, in which folks are asking how to access both battery terminals to install a trickle charger or heated clothing controller, as I had the same question. The easiest way, as others have suggested, would probably be to connect the positive (red) to the (easier accessible of the two) positive battery terminal and connect the negative (black) to any existing frame/grounded bolt. However, I opted to attach to both battery terminals instead. If you want to do the same, read on.

The 2015 R nineT battery is located under the fuel tank, but that doesn't mean that you need to remove the tank entirely to gain sufficient access (unless you're replacing the battery). As a matter of fact, in just a few steps, you can lift the tank on its rear hinge enough to access both terminals. Here's how ...

Preparation:

  • Get yourself a repair manual, it's inexpensive and will empower you to work on your own bike
  • Make sure that your tank is low on fuel (it will make the process easier and safer to tilt)
  • Get yourself a good set of wrenches, you'll need sizes T20, T30, and T45
  • Find a block of wood to prop the front of the tank up on while lifted
  • Place the bike on a stand
  • If you don't have a stand,
  • On the kickstand, straightened the front wheel so that the bike is as upright as possible
  • Put the bike in gear and place some wood chocks in front of and behind the rear tire
  • Put some heavy boxes on each side of the front wheel to keep it from turning (this is important because, if not straight, the handlebars will get in the way of the tank as you're lifting it up)

Step by step:

1) Remove the rear seat (or hump) and the front seat (figure 1 below)

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2) Remove the mount for the front seat (figure 2 below)

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3) Remove the side brackets (one on each side) for the front seat (figure 3 below)

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4) Remove the intake air pipe cover bolts (figure 4 below)

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5) Slide the intake air pipe cover forward to remove (figure 5 below)

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6) Remove the diagnosis plug from its retainer clip (figure 6 below, pre 2017 models - later bikes have an OBD2 port under the seat I believe).

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7) Remove the front tank bolts, one on each side (figure 7 below)

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8) Tilt the tank up from the front on its rear hinge and rest the front on a block of wood (figure 8 below)

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9) Access the positive and negative battery terminal from the sides (figures 9 and 10 below)
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Reverse the process to reassemble the bike.

I hope this helps.
 

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#2 ·
I lifted my tank shortly after getting the bike and would like to call out the "get a stand" bullet point. I did not have my pit bull stand at the time and didn't level the bike, so there was no way to safely keep the front of the tank elevated. Clearly I had not it through...

This is a great tutorial and is sure to assist! To anyone trying, don't make my mistake. Get it level.

I would also add, at Step 8, you are limited to how high you can lift the tank as the fuel line is directly under there. Just be careful of that a line doesn't get disconnected.
 
#7 ·
Best way to do anything under tank is to remove it altogether , it's not that tough, once you remove rear hinge pin and fuel lines. that way you don't have to worry about the tank slipping or getting scratched . Great tutorial for the novice though.
 
#8 ·
Nice one

Thanks, I've been looking at different options for just this set up. Am personally looking at a charger, battery level tester, possible jump from a microstart option. Haven't found the one lead does all option yet.
 
#10 ·
I bought a 2016 RNineT and my bike had a special adapter plug that cost about 4 bucks that allowed me to quickly plug in my battery tender to keep the scooter full of life! Motorcycle's of Charlotte NC sold it to me and my buddy Thomas laughed when I told him I was about to take the tank off and said "here ya go, 4 bucks and no effort" my reply to Thomas was "damnit, dealership wins..." I hope this is relevant to your conversation!
 
#12 ·
I changed my stock battery on my '14 Classic today. I considered a Lithium battery, but since I frequently ride in cold weather I went for a gel battery.

I followed Bullara's steps, and it was an easy task done in about an hour and a half. No errors or warning lights. Excellent 'tutorial' Bullara, thanks!

:rock:
 
#13 ·
I used this post today to install my heated jacket lead and the harness for my Quad Lock USB charger. Thanks to the OP this took me less than an hour. I used a 1x6x18" plank and laid it on the ABS pump and had plenty of space to work with no risk of damaging any of the fuel related lines.
 
#14 ·
An outstandingly helpful post, this, even though I haven't yet got my R9T. Many thanks. But it seems accessing the battery terminals is quite fiddly, so I ask if there is a way of putting in some pigtails (is what I think they are called), or some proprietary device, to extend access to the terminals to a more accessible point on the bike, say under one or the other of the seats. This would simplify battery-charging and/ or addition of later items to be wired-in, such as a new horn, DRLs, whatever. Thank you in advance...
 
#15 ·
Hey mate there is actually a lot of discussion on the forum about this, particularly in the electronics section.

There is an electrical connection bar under the rider seat for the positive feed. And you can choose a solid earth point on the frame or body to complete the pigtail connection, Easy job. Makes charging from a conventional (non canbus compatible) a breeze.

Just do a forum search, but to get you started here are a couple of threads. Happy reading! :)


 
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#18 ·
This is great reading and great directions
But this should be only if you need to reach the battery
if you need a positive and negative connection there are other ways without removing anything
I have. connected a USB and ciigerette lighter connector on a positive and negative connections around the bike.
And a trickle charge directly to battery. (only cause I went in and replaced the battery.)
under the seat is positive and under the left "cylinder head is a negative placed there by BMW (looks like a alligator clip bolt.
 
#19 ·
This is great reading and great directions
But this should be only if you need to reach the battery
if you need a positive and negative connection there are other ways without removing anything
I have. connected a USB and ciigerette lighter connector on a positive and negative connections around the bike.
And a trickle charge directly to battery. (only cause I went in and replaced the battery.)
under the seat is positive and under the left "cylinder head is a negative placed there by BMW (looks like a alligator clip bolt.

Thank you - but I still want/ need to see a photo or diagram of this still-mysterious (to me) 'electrical connection bar under the rider seat.' But (hoping against hope) maybe all will be revealed when I get my hands on the Manual.
 
#22 ·
Okee Dokee here you go :)
one picture should show the positive connection underneath the seat
the other pictures should show the bolt that I used. Now this bolt actually was longer and looked liker a Frankenstein Neck Bolt, but since I put the cylinder-covers I had to change it but I still used that for my negative and I ran the negative wire where no one can see. And yes one picture will show you 2 different connections
one with a wire connected to it which is my new lithium trickle charge and that goes to the battery.
the other is now a USB port right behind the tail light and that was my original trickle charger and can still be used and is connected to where the pictures show. That now is a USB port or auxiliary
128616
128617
128618
128619
128620
connector
 
#24 ·
I forgive you! But thanks - at last someone who read the question! I too will probably want to have connections for a trickle-charger (likely a CTEK item), as well as the aux lighting I plan. Maybe cyl-head guards as well, maybe the MaMoto parts. I'll be very, very glad when the bike turns up (eta the 23rd, a week away still) so I can see these things for myself! Appreciate your words and pix!
 
#26 ·
Thank you - I'll look into this too. Only reason I mentioned CTEK is 'coz I had one before and it was excellent.

Following on from this most helpful post, and all other threads and posts on this tricky subject, can I now take it that if I have any device requiring an electrical circuit, I can - for +ve - connect straight to the red +ve terminal on the under-seat connector, and then to any part of the hard frame of the bike for -ve to complete the circuit?

I think I might also insulate the connector with its terminals in some way, e.g. by securing a plastic 'cap' to cover the item, 'just in case'.

Thank you again for your guidance, bfb!
 
#30 ·
Figure two above literally shows the positive feed bar. just pop off the plastic cover, and there is the bar. You can see two positive leads, one coming from the battery and one going out to the system right there. The plastic cover simply pops on. There really is no need at all to go directly to the battery unless of course it needs to be changed out.
 
#31 ·
Thank you too - I must say I was not looking forward to having to strip the entire front-end of the bike down to get to the battery, easier though it may have been thanks to the first excellent post here almost four years ago from Bullara. I'm learning more every day!