Double check and possibly just replace the vacuum plug you put on your left throttle body when removing charcoal canister.

 

vacuum plug is great. The issue can be mitigated by shutting bike off and restarting with success 2/3 times. Starting to think it's a sync thing. Now searching forum posts on that subject....

 

Try this:
Turn the key to the on position without starting the engine. With the key on but engine off twist the throttle fully open to fully closed three times. Turn the key to the off position, and then start the bike as usual.
See if that helps.

 

That.....actually seemed to help quite a bit.
What sorcery is This!! Are you a wizard?

Or....is the R9T like some kind of crypto puzzle? Is there a cheat sheet somewhere with all the cool incantations?

 

What sorcery is This!! Are you a wizard?

Yes, incantations available on request...

It's a TPS (throttle position sensor) reset. Sometimes the ECU gets confused and in a loop it can't get out of.

I should have added to open and close the throttle slowly (or just not fast) and to wait 5 seconds before turning the ignition back on and starting the bike.

 

Good to know.
So, if I apply the brakes three times at sunrise, does it adjust the ABS?
If my bikes dies at the side of the road....let me guess...click my heels together and say 'there's no place like home'.

Is there a list of....what do we call these? Service procedures?

 

So, if I apply the brakes three times at sunrise, does it adjust the ABS?

Only if it's the 2nd sunrise after the night of the full moon...

Is there a list of....what do we call these? Service procedures?

Some of this is guarded like state secrets. Some you can find if you know enough to "search" for the right thing. Some may be on the service disc. I dunno...

 

Here we go again.
super rough idle, bike can't hold an idle, loading up, and smells VERY gassy. Too rich, right? On any carbureted machine that's the right answer. So, with some regret I retired the Booster Plug. And nothing changed. Maybe even got worse.

Today was 100+ miles of windy country roads at illegal speeds. Lots of hard acceleration, lot's of slow roll-on sweepers. Good roads. The power is great, but at idle it's sometimes smooth as butter, and sometimes bone shacking, gassy, and stalls. The poor man's throttle reset (see above) worked twice, failed once, and nothing is conclusive.

I hate to just start randomly changing parts, but right now I am highly suspicious of O2 sensors, plugs, plug wires, and....the ECU. I guess it's mechanics 101, so fire, fuel, air...usually in that order. I sure wish it would just throw me a code.....

 

GS911 doesn't show any code(s)?

Get a bottle of Marvel Mystery Oil. Walmart carries it. Add 5 or 6 oz to a full tank. 1+ oz per gallon and go for a ride. If you have a sticky or clogged injector it will help without the nasty (hard on parts) solvents commercial injector cleaners use. My bikes, snowblower and mower get it added to their gas when they sit during their off-seasons. My cars get dosed once or twice a year.

 

GS911 shows nada.

I had not considered fouled injectors. That's a very good point.

Good input...thank you.

 

Hi Gang,

This is the follow up post. I think I have solved my problems.

It's always easier when you know the answer to the test. After looking at fueling issues, pulling the tank, checking the fuel pump, checking the injectors, treating the injectors, and taking the bike to the dealer for the 6k, I finally got around to taking care of the basics.

I bought a decent carb balancing tool, and went through the process of hooking up the GS-911, performing the Idle Sync procedure, and then did a throttle body balancing check and adjustment. I am still unclear on why this is necessary...as I understand it there is no actual Throttle Position Sensor on the throttle bodies of the R9T. Apparently the process is just to physically park the throttle bodies, set that as 'zero' and then the bike applies the fuel map based on throttle position as opposed to the position of the two individual throttle bodies. I think I still need to work on my education with regard to this, but that's my current understanding.

The end result is that my bike idles smoothly, accelerates like a beast, and runs butter smooth at speed. Cruising at 120km at around 4k, the feeling is stable reliable bliss.

So far, so good, but.....why do the throttles go out of sync and how ofter should I run the Idle Sync procedure? My guess from reading this forum is that this happens a **** of a lot, and the GS-911 Idle Sync procedure should be run very frequently. Monthly at least, maybe more than that. It's super easy to do, so why not make it a regular thing?

At any rate, it all seems solved now. If that changes I will let you all know.

Rob-

 

Things can get out of wack. That's why you go back thru the basics with a GS911. There's a stepper motor (idle control device) on each throttle body and a (only one, at least on the 14-16 EURO 3 bikes) throttle position switch. What's usually called a TPS but BMW has to be different. There's a factory set (calibrated) mechanical stop on each throttle throttle body that sets the minimum throttle blade opening. Here's where I think BMW screws up. Their throttle body sync proceedure just has the blades moving off that minimum stop at the same time. Actually they want one to open VERY slightly before the other, I think because of the evap cannister that is in essence a vacuum leak on the left intake.

What seems to work better in practice is to do all the GS911 magic and then do a more traditional "equal part throttle vacuum" throttle blade sync at 4 or 5,000 rpm. Guys that really obsess about this will ride the bike with a TwinMax connected and check (and adjust as required) the sync during actual part throttle cruise.

Just FWIW.