[Stekkert]

I am actually getting close to the point of doing this as I have my 12K service coming up and figured I'd tackle it then. I know that the maintenance interval is 18K, but I did a suspension clinic with Dave Moss and he had some recommendations for new fork oil so I'd like to do it along with the major service.

Care to share what oil Dave recommended?

 

[JohnT]

...first thing i noted was both forks had 600 ml, spec in haynes 525 ml,
current miles 9500...

Pretty typical.
This is why it's worth pulling out the springs and actually setting the oil levels.
Oil levels are important, they're a tuning component and adjusted when setting up forks. In particular they control how progressive the forks' effective spring rates are, having greatest effect during the last third of your fork travel.

 

[Forest]

Thanks for the info,
The forks are better fully stripped and new seals etc and oil levels are critical, i agree,
the reasons for me showing a drain and re fill,
some on here are wanting to change their fork oil and not comfortable with a full strip,
new oil at the specified or adjusted to your levels, is better than old,
i am good with setting up my suspension and the oil quantity was working for me,
the seals and bushes are good and i did not leave the oil until it turned to black sludge,
so a regular drain and re fill is my choice, when i have my rear shock serviced,
this is something many bike shops offer as a service so why not maintain it if you can,
i am able to fully disassemble the forks when the need arises,
Safety is the big issue, poorly functioning suspension due to degraded oil can be avoided,
Forest,

 

[JohnT]

i am good with setting up my suspension and the oil quantity was working for me,
the seals and bushes are good and i did not leave the oil until it turned to black sludge,
so a regular drain and re fill is my choice, when i have my rear shock serviced,
this is something many bike shops offer as a service so why not maintain it if you can,
i am able to fully disassemble the forks when the need arises,
Safety is the big issue, poorly functioning suspension due to degraded oil can be avoided,
Forest,

Do you have the necessary fork spring compresser so you can remove the springs and do it right?

 

[cgilfond]

Is the attached "Dump and Run" video from Dave Moss a good "how-to" for changing the fork oil on a 2018 Standard R9T with USD gold forks?

@JohnT: do shouldn' need any special tools if I am just changing the oil right? I am not sure about doing the seals myself.

 

[JohnT]

...shouldn' need any special tools if I am just changing the oil right? I am not sure about doing the seals myself.

Has nothing to do with replacing seals.
If you want to just do the "dump and run" shown you don't need any special tools. The video is really meant for guys that have already gone thru the process of figuring what viscosity fork oil and what levels they need.
To set the oil levels you do need a fork spring compresser. That really should be done once. The levels as delivered are all over the place.
You also need the fork spring compresser when you get to the point of replacing seals. It works on a lot of bikes. It's not an R9T specific tool.

 

[cgilfond]

Very helpful comments on this thread thanks for your patience!
I will not be able to compress the fork etc so will need to rely on refilling based on the specified amount of oil (525ml) or replacing whatever comes out of the exisitng set up.

But if fully drained, shouldn't adding the 525ml of oil result in the desired "stock" 65mm air gap? Why would the air gap vary if the volume of the internals are all the same?