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Discussion starter · #23 ·
... yay! 7 more days of sitting around idle - and tires showed no sign of pressure loss. Reckon I wont bother with the tire-pressure-monitor now. Usually check tires once a week, or at least before a ride if there's been a longer break between rides.
 
... yay! 7 more days of sitting around idle - and tires showed no sign of pressure loss. Reckon I wont bother with the tire-pressure-monitor now. Usually check tires once a week, or at least before a ride if there's been a longer break between rides.
Huntsman have u been riding at high speed 80-100 mph /bumpy road/ long distance with outex? Please share some feedback
 
Huntsman have u been riding at high speed 80-100 mph /bumpy road/ long distance with outex? Please share some feedback
I have done some fast country road rides with the Outex kit... Still holding strong with no pressure loss 3 months on
 
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Discussion starter · #26 ·
uh ... our top speed limits here are 110km/h on public roads - which I dutifully observe - of course.
0:)
Rough to very rough riding over quite some debris at times (broken branches from storm wind damage in rural areas), rippled roads and bends at legal speeds ... rough enough to bottom out the forks a few times - which kind of says that the rims have been subjected to decent pressures/impacts.

Higher speeds too, but of course only on 'private' roads which are generally kept in better condition and experience less traffic and damage.

150 - 300 km individual trips, about 700km all up on Outex improved rims by now.

From experience I would say that sitting idle usually encourages air leakage more than riding or riding hard .... I'm less worried about the seal-in-motion ....
 
I have Outex installed today, wasn't successful. I ask local fixer garage to install it for me. The problem happens when i get the bike back. I drove around 20 km and notice the tire loss on both wheel.The air leak from the nipple from both rims. When i took of the wheel out, i noticed the air leak came from the end of the tape area on both wheel. I think the problem happens because of the garage didn't do the good job, knowing they did install outex many times with the KTM bikes.

Now i went to another tyre shop and they proposed to use silicone glue seal the edge between the tape and the rims.

Hopefully everything went well for tomorrow. If not i will have to go back for tube tire system again.
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
... that kind of highlights the value of being a fussy diy novice for some projects, and giving it a go. Just before Xmas too, the 'care factor' often slumps into negative regions in many shops.

I'm not sure if silicone will do the trick for you .... there should be some Outex tape left over to put a patch over the offending poke ... I'd suggest you complain to the original installer, maybe with a letter from your solicitor - highlighting the 'hazard in traffic situations' THEY exposed you to - due to incompetent and negligent work standard (if that was the real cause), that should rattle their cage enough to redo your wheels to an acceptable standard.
Also, that way you have a record of that failure - which would help you if you ever needed proof in an unlucky situation.

If you involve another tyre shop, that will automatically mean that both will have a valid excuse to blame the other for any failings .... you will loose out definitely.

The other tyre shop's suggestion to fix with silicone ..... I don't know .... don't you think that's a bit sus?
 
I have Outex installed today, wasn't successful. I ask local fixer garage to install it for me. The problem happens when i get the bike back. I drove around 20 km and notice the tire loss on both wheel.The air leak from the nipple from both rims. When i took of the wheel out, i noticed the air leak came from the end of the tape area on both wheel. I think the problem happens because of the garage didn't do the good job, knowing they did install outex many times with the KTM bikes.

Now i went to another tyre shop and they proposed to use silicone glue seal the edge between the tape and the rims.

Hopefully everything went well for tomorrow. If not i will have to go back for tube tire system again.
As a work-around put some tyre sealant (Slime | Slime) in the tyres. Inflate and go for a 15 min ride. It should fix it for you.
 
I went to pick the bike up today, and again the air leak from another nipple after riding around 20km. I think they didn't sand down the nipple before install outex. So i will go back to tube mode again.

I do have some spare tape left over, they recomend me to cut the leaked part and reinstall the tape again. However, without sanding down the nipple i wouldn't dare to redo it again.

I have some question, if i put the tube back in and leave the outex as it if. Will it damage the tube when riding?
They didn't recommend me to put the the layer rubber (originally installed from the factory) back with the tube, they say its will be too heavy.

Thank you very much.
So sick! i have to removed the wheel and install it back 3 times already.. !!!
 
I went to pick the bike up today, and again the air leak from another nipple after riding around 20km. I think they didn't sand down the nipple before install outex. So i will go back to tube mode again.

I do have some spare tape left over, they recomend me to cut the leaked part and reinstall the tape again. However, without sanding down the nipple i wouldn't dare to redo it again.

I have some question, if i put the tube back in and leave the outex as it if. Will it damage the tube when riding?
They didn't recommend me to put the the layer rubber (originally installed from the factory) back with the tube, they say its will be too heavy.

Thank you very much.
So sick! i have to removed the wheel and install it back 3 times already.. !!!
I didn't sand down the nipples and had no leaks. You don't need to go back to tubes, just put some Slime in.

You should remove the Outex if going back to tubes as it is heavy and adds weight.
 
"According to Pascals Law, pressure is equal everywhere within a system (e.g. compressed air in a tire). Does that pressure (3 bar to take a round number) experience gravity? e.g: is 3 bar of pressure acting on an inner surface of a rotating wheel/rim - reduced by some factor as speed and centrifugal forces increase? Will the centrifugal force at some time/speed overcome the force of the 3 bar air pressure within the tire (not calculating the adhesive bond of the sticky tape) - and force the sealing tape to come off? What speed would that require?? (I hope the answer is nowhere near 230km/h ... "


It's the mass of the air (in the tire) that you would use to do the calculation, which is not much. Your bike won't go that fast.
 
My concern are now with outex and the tube on the scratchy. I hope it doesn't scratchy and damage the tube. As for the weight is alright. I will order kineo very very soon,
 
I received my outex kit from Japan last week. Unfortunately the instructions are entirely in Japanese. Would someone be able to post on here a printable version? I would really appreciate it.

It also came with the local newspaper stuffed in the box for packing, which i'm sure would make for interesting reading if i could :)

I found a youtube video on the install but it's nice to have the hard copy of the manufacturer's instructions.

Thanks,
Greg
 
I received my outex kit from Japan last week. Unfortunately the instructions are entirely in Japanese. Would someone be able to post on here a printable version? I would really appreciate it.

It also came with the local newspaper stuffed in the box for packing, which i'm sure would make for interesting reading if i could :)

I found a youtube video on the install but it's nice to have the hard copy of the manufacturer's instructions.

Thanks,
Greg
There is a YouTube video of instructions online
 
Discussion starter · #36 ·
Hi Klondiker,
below you'll find the link to the post on R1150R forum which prompted me to go for Outex, it's quite comprehensive, with some extras added; eg. gap-closing-goop (which I didn't go for on my installation).
BMW R nineT R1250R R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T Message Board ? View topic - R12R Classic Tubeless Tire Conversion

I've thrown away my instructions, but guess memory is sitll nenity penrcet tehre. It's not a dicuffilt isntaltioln - but care needs to be taken on tepramenture and cleaning during prep. You could look at the photos on my album.

- after removing tire, tube-protection-tape and valve, I set the wheel up on a small Black&Decker timber workbench, so it would have some resistance against turning itself (whilst doing the job).

- I followed Outex' recommendations and ground off the heads of the spokes, which protrude massively above the inner rim surface. The spoke heads are very chunky, sit in the rim recesses - grinding off the top didn't even get near the threaded part of the spokes. It took a bit off mental guts to just start grinding away, but going that way anyway there was no point faffing around.

- Removing the sharp edges left from grinding, well I tried to sand /polish them out with a dremel at first (gently gently). But it's really a waste of time. Not powerful enough to achieve good results here. Got me nowhere. I ended up using a wire-wheel in my 5" grinder which is plenty strong to buff off sharp edges. >>> but it's also plenty strong to dig into the aluminium rim .... so extra care needed to be taken there. 'Gently gently' is really important here.

- After brushing off the metal filings, I used a strong vacuum cleaner with sharp nozzle to remove fine filings in the spoke head recesses.

- I cleaned everything off with methylated spirits. Shouldn't use anything oil-based like turps/white spirit or so. Methylated spirit on a rag/sponge removed any glue/dirt/hand sweat /tire grease easy. Using an industrial hot-air-gun evaporated any excess in the recesses .... and showed up areas which may need to be gone over again.

- Application of the double sided sticky tape: Make sure the ambient temperature is above 24 degrees (I think), it helps making the tape a little more pliable.

- DON'T forget to put those little reinforced-sticky-dots on the spoke heads BEFORE laying down the sticky tape. Extra protection against chafing/wearing through.

- The tape itself has no inherent strength, meaning it can be pulled out of shape or stretched. Best to avoid that. The instructions say, start one to two spoke-heads away from valve hole. Cut the end of the tape so the joint will run diagonally from side-to-side between two spoke heads. lay it down in a straight line parallel to the rim-centre-line. At the joint, lay it over the beginning and use a sharp knife to trim the end to match the diagonal line.

- Teflon tape: Important, the two joints (sticky & upper tape) should be staggered! e.g. Start laying down the upper tape again one or two spoke heads over from where the sticky tape joined. Same procedure, nice & easy, straight and parallel. Match the diagonal cut at the end.

- Sealing/securing the upper tape joint: Cut about 2" (50mm) of sticky (straight cuts) and affix it over the tape. Cut a matching piece of upper tape and stick it on top of that.

- Use a narrow roller (I used the rounded handle of a screwdriver) put pressure on both tapes, rolling out any air bubbles, pressing it on around the spoke heads.

- Valve: Use a sharp craft knife to cut out the hole for the valve, install the new valve. Don't over tighten the valve, just enough tension to bulge the rubber seal a little.

Done.
 
Discussion starter · #37 ·
... tip: I regret not having ordered a pair of 83-degree-tire-valves before installing the Outex fix. These would make checking/filling up air just that little bit more comfortable (due to extra large brake discs).
I've got them now, ready to install when I need new tires.

83 degree tire valve | eBay

;)
 
Hi guys,


Im loosing 4 psi in the front tire per week. Rear wheel its ok. Any quick fix for this? Thanks.
 
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