It’s been 10 days since the conversion using the Outex-Kit. No complaints so far. No pressure drop.
See album for photos: BMW NineT Forum - huntsman's Album: Tubeless Conversion
Trying to take the tire off myself on SuperCheapTireChange table wasn’t the success I’d hoped for. Even though I cracked the bead all around on both sides – still the tire didn’t budge, the bead just didn’t want to slip over the rim. Took it to my friendly bike mechanic. They make it look so easy, no? Luckily, when putting the tire back on he mentioned how tuff/tight it was ... uh, good news for me ... at least not as weak a weakling as I had been telling myself.
So, thanks goes to some of you guys who mentioned their experiences good & bad, helped a bit with looking out for tricky bits. However, no real pity here for people complaining they don’t have the right tools or set-up to make sure the tape runs off the roll in a straight line. Two left hands & ten thumbs? Rushing it a bit? Is that you? Well, don’t blame Outex. Look at my tools, the grinder with flap-wheel is basically the most high tech tool I used. Closer inspection of the rubber liner (between rim/spoke heads & tube) showed it already had cuts & tears from the sharp edged spoke heads. It’s about 3mm (1/8”) thick and solid – where the Outex instructions recommended sanding down the heads ... they really meant it. Reinforced adhesive dots to provide additional wear reduction between spoke heads & double-sided-sticky-tape is a good idea (comes with the kit).
A little thought and care is needed for wheel/rim placement when putting on the sticky tape & top strip. I used a Black & Decker hobby work bench, jaws open wide enough for front rim, and rear rim sits nicely across the opening. You don’t want to have the rim doing its own thing or start rolling away ...
Very important: After sticky tape is put on (mustn’t forget the stickers on the spoke heads!), a screwdriver-handle is enormously helpful to mould the tape into the curve and ensure positive contact for the adhesive. Same procedure again after the top-tape has been installed.
Pumping the tire up to 3 bar o/night (only slightly more than manual’s recommended 36.3 PSI every day pressure) –WITHIN the HOUR – again assists positive contact and bonding of adhesive.
... bolt everything on again, reassemble ... test ride .... re-tighten (torque wrench) bolts ... and woooosh zoooom yaaaaay ...... :laugh: :laugh:
(now I can go and find something worthwhile to spend my approx. $3500 savings on ... wireless tire pressure monitoring system? ...)
P.S.: Someone asked if our's has 'floating brake disk?' YES
P.P.S: the only specialist doohickey-tool I needed was a 22mm-in-hex-socket with 1/2" drive. Hard to get here ... shops must have just sold out when I got there. It'll be here in 2 weeks mate. Yeah right. Couldn't wait. WOULDN'T wait. An imperial bolt head (21.3mm) with a little weld added & sanded to perfect 22mm, welded onto a 1/2"hex socket did the trick for removal of BMW quick-change front axle. (see album)
I have a question for physicists and brainy people: According to Pascals Law, pressure is equal everywhere within a system (e.g. compressed air in a tire). Does that pressure (3 bar to take a round number) experience gravity? e.g: is 3 bar of pressure acting on an inner surface of a rotating wheel/rim - reduced by some factor as speed and centrifugal forces increase? Will the centrifugal force at some time/speed overcome the force of the 3 bar air pressure within the tire (not calculating the adhesive bond of the sticky tape) - and force the sealing tape to come off? What speed would that require?? (I hope the answer is nowhere near 230km/h ... or I'll have to rethink that fast-speed-slow-leak dilemma haha
See album for photos: BMW NineT Forum - huntsman's Album: Tubeless Conversion
Trying to take the tire off myself on SuperCheapTireChange table wasn’t the success I’d hoped for. Even though I cracked the bead all around on both sides – still the tire didn’t budge, the bead just didn’t want to slip over the rim. Took it to my friendly bike mechanic. They make it look so easy, no? Luckily, when putting the tire back on he mentioned how tuff/tight it was ... uh, good news for me ... at least not as weak a weakling as I had been telling myself.
So, thanks goes to some of you guys who mentioned their experiences good & bad, helped a bit with looking out for tricky bits. However, no real pity here for people complaining they don’t have the right tools or set-up to make sure the tape runs off the roll in a straight line. Two left hands & ten thumbs? Rushing it a bit? Is that you? Well, don’t blame Outex. Look at my tools, the grinder with flap-wheel is basically the most high tech tool I used. Closer inspection of the rubber liner (between rim/spoke heads & tube) showed it already had cuts & tears from the sharp edged spoke heads. It’s about 3mm (1/8”) thick and solid – where the Outex instructions recommended sanding down the heads ... they really meant it. Reinforced adhesive dots to provide additional wear reduction between spoke heads & double-sided-sticky-tape is a good idea (comes with the kit).
A little thought and care is needed for wheel/rim placement when putting on the sticky tape & top strip. I used a Black & Decker hobby work bench, jaws open wide enough for front rim, and rear rim sits nicely across the opening. You don’t want to have the rim doing its own thing or start rolling away ...
Very important: After sticky tape is put on (mustn’t forget the stickers on the spoke heads!), a screwdriver-handle is enormously helpful to mould the tape into the curve and ensure positive contact for the adhesive. Same procedure again after the top-tape has been installed.
Pumping the tire up to 3 bar o/night (only slightly more than manual’s recommended 36.3 PSI every day pressure) –WITHIN the HOUR – again assists positive contact and bonding of adhesive.
... bolt everything on again, reassemble ... test ride .... re-tighten (torque wrench) bolts ... and woooosh zoooom yaaaaay ...... :laugh: :laugh:
(now I can go and find something worthwhile to spend my approx. $3500 savings on ... wireless tire pressure monitoring system? ...)
P.S.: Someone asked if our's has 'floating brake disk?' YES
P.P.S: the only specialist doohickey-tool I needed was a 22mm-in-hex-socket with 1/2" drive. Hard to get here ... shops must have just sold out when I got there. It'll be here in 2 weeks mate. Yeah right. Couldn't wait. WOULDN'T wait. An imperial bolt head (21.3mm) with a little weld added & sanded to perfect 22mm, welded onto a 1/2"hex socket did the trick for removal of BMW quick-change front axle. (see album)
I have a question for physicists and brainy people: According to Pascals Law, pressure is equal everywhere within a system (e.g. compressed air in a tire). Does that pressure (3 bar to take a round number) experience gravity? e.g: is 3 bar of pressure acting on an inner surface of a rotating wheel/rim - reduced by some factor as speed and centrifugal forces increase? Will the centrifugal force at some time/speed overcome the force of the 3 bar air pressure within the tire (not calculating the adhesive bond of the sticky tape) - and force the sealing tape to come off? What speed would that require?? (I hope the answer is nowhere near 230km/h ... or I'll have to rethink that fast-speed-slow-leak dilemma haha
