I have the same cam system and wired it through my EZCan. Well worth it if you have other wired accessories, like aux lights.

 

Hey @elty19, how did you go? Do you still want some help?

 

How to install SAE connector on 2014 R NineT

Hi folks,

how do you guys go about installing the battery SAE connector without having to remove the battery?

Removing the battery seems like a pain in the ass so wanted to see the easiest way to install the connector.

 

You don't need to remove the battery just lift the tank and leave the battery where it is you can work on it that way.

It's always good to introduce yourself.

 

Ah sure I forgot to do it on the other category. I'll do it soon.

I see so I will have to still unbolt to lift the tank up.

 

Do a search on the forum there’s plenty of information readily available. Just fit the lead to the posts behind the tank. The simplest solutions are often the best!

 

@rNineTOwner I have moved your post to this stickied thread that should answer what you need to know.
Please have a read back through the posts for ideas to get the job done.

 

Above is correct as circled!
I simply routed the cable downwards and cable tied it adjacent to the rear brake reservoir for easy access!

 

Oy, have any of you wonderful folks used an Amplink? (Rowe - Amplink) I just got around to putting mine back on and love it. Denali has a similar product you can use with a CANBUS system but on the RNine you can't use them. When I first brought Bean home I had grand plans for all sorts of thingy-ma-bobs to hang on my poor ride. However, she turned out so wonderful all I ended up with were my buck converter to power my phone and my Baja running lights. So why you axe did I say that I just put the Amplink 'back' on, welp it goes like this...

Way back when, I kind of put the cart before the horse, or in my case the Amplink before the lights. And not being the sharpest knife in the drawer it took me a bit to figure out how to make the Alink work so I just threw it in to see how it would work and what I could ultimately do with it. It was a bit of a dry run so to speak, I wired it in, and since mine is a Bluetooth model I programmed it to test out the functionality of the unit. I left the stock BMW wires alone and all the leads from the Alink long. Then used spade lugs so as not to compromise any of the stock wiring and at the time I couldn't figure out where or what I would use for the trigger. Later I found an empty socket back in the tail light section and discovered that my local dealer could set me up with a blank stock lead that would plug into the socket. BMW motorcycles seem to have loads of plugs that are just capped off which makes them nice and neat to pull from. No need to cut and splice into stock harnesses which can lead to disasters down the road. So once everything was working with no problems and no dashboard warnings I pulled it out so as not to have a snake bed of wires.

Fast forward a year, Baja lights have been on for a while now, the buck converter for my phone is in and why do you axe am I putting the Alink back on? Welp in my infinite wisdom I felt at the time I wanted my running lights on a hot lead so that I could run them while I was, say, setting up camp in the dark without leaving the Bean idling or the ignition on. Being LED lights they can run for a bit without too much drain on a new battery so why not? The same goes for the buck converter, charge the phone with Bean sleeping sure let's do that. That worked like a charm and I was very happy with the setup in general. All went as planned lights, phone, all good... but here's the thing. Not only do I run my lights for a bit setting up camp, I run them going down the road as my 'get the heck out of the way here I come' lights. They are very bright and getting attention from surrounding traffic is always a good thing. The problem was that during the day when I would use them, I would forget to turn them off. Remember they were wired hot so I didn't have to keep Bean running to use them. When I would leave them on and come back in an hour or two guess what, yup dead battery. Bummer. You would think I should learn, but alas I guess I am a bit thick-skulled and had a dead battery more than once.

I decided to put in my Shorai Lithium battery today and since I was at it I may as well reinstall my Amplink. Since I had a factory socket to pull from I used one wire from it as the trigger and then set up my lights on one circuit of the Alink, and my buck converter on another separate circuit. I set up the buck to power on in 5 seconds and then turn on the power for the lights in about 10 seconds thereby giving full battery to start the Bean. The lights power off in 20 seconds to give me light if I need to see where I'm going when I get off. Mind you I can through the magic of Bluetooth and my phone, I can make the delay to shut off the lights much longer if needed than the 20 seconds or so however, 20 seems to work just fine.

In the picture below you can see the Amplink belly side up with the green LED on and my service block that I ran all my shortened wires in resting on top of it. The stock BMW socket is that white plug with the yellow wires just beside the service block. Everything fits nicely together and is quite neat considering how dirty things get under my seat. Believe it or not, it is all waterproof to maybe around IP 65 or so and rugged enough that I don't worry about rattling it loose on one of my rides.

​

So there you have it. Later when I get inspired I may wire and program the running lights to flash back and forth. Or maybe add a bunch of random LEDs to put on a light show like the Times Square Ball, (I was a part of the team that built it), but we shall just see about that.

Kind regards,

 

Oy, have any of you wonderful folks used an Amplink? (Rowe - Amplink) I just got around to putting mine back on and love it. Denali has a similar product you can use with a CANBUS system but on the RNine you can't use them………

Not sure where you are getting the impression you can’t use them on the R Nine T. Although not listed if you use the Hex VIN converter you can enter your VIN and it will tell you what model is suitable for your R Nine T. I recently fitted a Denali one to my 2023 Pure.

Hex EZcan also works. The Denali unit is a HexEZcan simply rebranded and utilises better connectors to connect to the Denali aftermarket options, the Denali also provides a better selection of connecting leads and splitters! Both units are made by the same company Hex Innovate!

VIN Decoder - HEX ezCAN

Enter the 17 digit VIN of your BMW or KTM motorcycle. This will show you additional information about your specific model. It will also display which of our

www.hexezcan.com

 

Not specific to the Nine T BUT as stated in a few posts, a relay can be a lifesaver so you do not accidentally drain your battery with accessories. Super easy to wire in and add a very cheap insurance layer

 

Really? As an Electrical Engineer for over 40 years I can guarantee you it is NOT a weak earth and has worked for several owners! If concern is that great simply run the earth/ground to the earth ground stud at the rear of the right hand cylinder head. That has exactly the same ‘potential’ as the depicted adjacent screw to the positive terminal at the rear of the tank.

 

Hey guys. I'm adding some fog lights to my Urban GS. I will run a switch on the handlebars to activate the lights via a regular Bosch relay. All well so far.

I want to use the trigger cable from a switched source. On my bike I had the mini Din Plug on the left side which I've replaced with a dual USB socket.

I would like to add a small pigtail between the bike wiring harness/plug and the USB socket. I'm having trouble finding a source for a male/female plug so I can make this pigtail. All I find are the ones pre made with a male connector and loose wires.

 

Friends, romans, countrymen: I have a question regarding using the jump start terminals in the photograph above. Correct me if I am wrong but isnt the positive terminal the one that sticks out higher and is labelled + with the big plastic sheath that sits over top of it? Are they both therefore positive terminals? Relieved to see the electrical engineer chime in about that brace bolt being acceptable for a ground.

Context, I am installing a "Thunderbox": ThunderBox (TB) - webshop.healtech-electronics.com.

 

Deeply confusing photograph above because it looks like you're connected to jumper terminal negative and ground through the frame.

 

I do not understand how the confusion arose. Both terminals on the bar are positive as you surmised eventually! The pigtail leads are both black and are of the same gauge. One has a huge white label adhered with large red ‘+ve’ labelling and a red ring tongue terminal on it, the other which is the same gauge of cable has no labelling but a black ring tongue terminal on it. The ring tongue terminals alone being colour coded dictate where they should be fitted. Glad you got there in the end!

 

Answer to my question above: Yes, both terminals are positive. Electricity passes through the metal brace between them. Neither of them are negative. The side of the bike is negative. And yes, it's okay to connect a Thunderbox to the jump terminals on a 2023 because the terminals go directly to the battery rather than through any other system (confirmed with a wiring diagram).

 

Best practice and husbandry. I am afflicted with minor OCD, the perceived surliness is obviously a new affliction. The screw in the bottom left of the picture is recessed and the ring tongue terminal would not fit in the recess. Possibly a longer screw and certainly a washer would also be required. The raised terminal is for jump starting/affixing a croc clip. I didn’t want to raise it any higher than it already is and I wanted the insulated cover to fit securely. Having checked initially that the screw where the negative terminal is currently fitted with an ohmmeter was a good earth/ground I could see no reasoning to investigate another position further away from the live than was necessary.

 

Love a bit of OCD in an engineer. Thank you!

 

Morning @motopoeta . I would look at the earth/ground connection as the likely culprit. The positive terminals are ‘designed’ as such and any bolt you use as an Earth/ground connection unless it is a designated Earth/ground is really just a ‘compromised’ one, especially if it is being snagged. If memory serves me correctly I used a larger ring tongue terminal and bent it slightly downwards to stop the seat snagging it. There is a designated raised ground stud at the rear of the right hand cylinder head on the engine if you fancy running the cable there without having to strip anything out for access. It was the one I intended to use when I first researched fitting the pigtail.
Edit Afterthought: I am unaware of how the Thunderbox is supposed to be wired but the positive terminals under the seat are permanently powered, does the Thunderbox need to be powered from ‘an ignition sourced live’ I am wondering perhaps? Good luck with it! Either of the two theories above ‘could be’ the cause.

 

Bingo. You were right, it was the ground. I grounded to another one that was more directly attached to the frame. Where the brake fluid sits. See photo. Resolved the issue and everything seems fine now. K9F — thank you so much for your quick feedback and help. I really really appreciate it. Off on a eastern Canadian adventure..

 

Enjoy your adventure! I would have responded quicker were it not for the time difference across the Pond. Spent a bit of time in Canada myself when I was in the Royal Air Force. St John’s Goose Bay and Halifax in particular the Split Crow pub I have great memories from!

 

Tomorrow it's a 7 day tour around PEI and then over and around Cape Breton. Love Nova Scotia and I know it well. Where we Anglophone Montrealers go to escape.