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@Phunkster correct, connect the white wire (if you want the white light, yellow if you want orange/amber) then cut the right blue W5W wire when the flat part of the box is on the table and ridge side facing up. Wrap the two ends with electrical tape. Should work.

I have a 2018 BMW RnineT Racer.
Will let you know how it turned out :) cheers!
 
I did some testing today. Installed everything as it was illustrated in the picture (cut the blue wire and connect the white to the w5w drl canbus adapter). Everything is working but i do get a error on the dash on the low and higbeam. Then i installed the "led decoder" (big canbus adapter which was included in the kit). On low beam no more error, only on highbeam.
I contacted ledperf with this matter.
 
LEDPERF Headlight Fitting

Hi all, just picking up on other threads from a while back has anybody successfully fitted the LED headlight unit from LEDPERF? Despite what they say instructions are not provided but when pressed I have received a limited wiring photo (attached). However, although the light works fine and the 'Angel eye' now operates OK with whilte light rather than orange, I still get the CanBus error despite fitting the Angel eye resistor. The supplied headlight LED decoder with the H4 plug makes no difference either. Many thanks, Steve
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This is a bit of a late reply but i'm facing the same issue. I've even gone as far as to hook up a DC load to try and clear the lamp warning. Can anybody shed some 'light' on what the 'LED DECODER' is supposed to do ? I mean, they're lamps. It should be just a simple Ohm load, nothing to be coded or decoded... I also dismantled the W5W module to see what's inside...just 2 copper strips with some resistors across them. Basically you're putting an additional load on angel eye ring to trick the CANBUS into thinking there's a light bulb attached...
 
Hi, a quick update then: after a bit of trial and error and then some additional info from LEDPerf I got mine set up perfectly without any warning coming up. I've attached the diagram that was sent to me and which I then used to check my wiring set up. In summary, don't connect the yellow wire (unless you want an orange halo) and fit the decoder between the old H4 plug and the new lamp unit. I don't know what it does exactly but without connecting it I had the warning symbol coming up. Additionally if your LED headlight unit doesn't fiit the R9T's mounting ring securely do what I did and get some 10mm bungee cord, make a hoop around the internal rim (I connected the ends using shrink wrap tubing) and then mount the LED unit flush up to it. This gives a pretty good seal but you may have to change the bottom securing screw clip for a cable tie (see other posts on this). I hope this helps and good luck! Kind regards, Steve
 

Attachments

Hi all, I noticed the lens on my headlight was cracked. I want to replace with a not to expensive LED light. About 50% of my time is spent riding at night. I was looking at the LedPerf LED light but not sure which Type model I Should get. Was thinking the Type 2.
If anyone has fitted one how did it work out.

Many thanks, Iain
 
Hello,

Im just wondering if anyone resolved the issue with the Can bus triggering on Hi beam. I can cure the dip and side lights with resistors but the Hi beam eludes me.
Also do any UK owners know if flashing the Halo orange when indicating along with the indicators would attract the attention of our esteemed law guardians?
 
I have had an LED Perf light installed for a couple of years with no problems. Recently, the low-beam went out. LED Perf sent me a new light (which was great). However, upon installation, I noticed the "resistor" that is in-line on the DRL wiring adapter has gotten very hot, and is brittle. Just touching it caused the end to come off and I'm sure it will not last. Has anyone else experienced this problem (and/or have a solution)?
 
I have had an LED Perf light installed for a couple of years with no problems. Recently, the low-beam went out. LED Perf sent me a new light (which was great). However, upon installation, I noticed the "resistor" that is in-line on the DRL wiring adapter has gotten very hot, and is brittle. Just touching it caused the end to come off and I'm sure it will not last. Has anyone else experienced this problem (and/or have a solution)?
Can't say that I have seen that before but if the resistor power dissipation is too low that would certainly be a likely outcome over time.
I bought a unit from a local cars spares shop and have made one myself. They have not been tested long term though.
 
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