[tomcatt]

Now where did I put the loctite?????

Take the grub/lock screw out, put a drop of Loctite on it' threads and screw it back in. I used purple Loctite 222.

Taking out the free play doesn't change how the brakes work, just makes it easier to find the point they start to apply with less "do nothing" travel before they apply. Sure makes them feel less "sudden".

 

[25PSi]

Hold on! Do not you need to pop whole lever off to adjust push rod? Was i doing extra unnecessary steps?

 

[BaldyDave]

Hold on! Do not you need to pop whole lever off to adjust push rod? Was i doing extra unnecessary steps?

No once the levers are attached the adjustment can be performed without popping the lever rod from the master cylinder. All you have to do is unscrew the locking grub screw then use the allen socket at the end of the pushrod to fine tune free play.

 

[25PSi]

Where would it go?

 

[Zanderk]

I only mentioned popping the levers off because it makes it easier to count the threads which was the info requested. As Dave states there is no need to do this to perform the adjustment it just makes them easier to see that's all.

Mark

 

[Bella In Sella]

Just do not sniff or taste it. Its real foul

Try with grapefruit juice. It's sweet :laugh:

 

[BaldyDave]

I only mentioned popping the levers off because it makes it easier to count the threads which was the info requested. As Dave states there is no need to do this to perform the adjustment it just makes them easier to see that's all.

Exactly......

At the risk of me getting on my soap box, can I stress people the fact that you are adjusting a braking system and you really have to be careful. Too slack adjustment can have the lever coming back to the bars and trapping your fingers, perhaps preventing the brakes from fully engaging - obviously dangerous (and probably painful in your fingers as well!). Too little slack and you can risk the brakes locking on which could be real nasty if it happens in the wrong place and time. Take the allen key with you when test riding any adjustment and keep things nice and steady for the first 20 miles... Gradually increase the braking force as you go but always drive with enough distance between you and any vehicles ahead that your rear brake will pull you up safely in an emergency

The clutch adjustment either results in clutch slip or drag..... not as serious as the braking issues but unwelcome nevertheless....

Sorry if I seem to be going on a bit.... But I don't want to hear any tales of bent 9Ts or their riders!

 

[BaldyDave]

Where would it go?

Unsure what you mean, mate.

If you mean where is the allen key socket on the threaded pushrod thing, it's on the opposite side from the pushrod ball that you can see. If you look from the end of the handlebar (shine in a torch) you will see the hex socket between the lever pivot bolt and the handlebar. Once you loosen off the grub screw you can simply adjust the free play with an allen key.

 

[Whyara]

Testride sucsessfully done, don't needed the tool:

Now the freeplay off the brakelever is how it should be from factory [emoji106]

With the short Puig lever at the widest adjustment it's like a "BMX-2-finger-brake" from the early 80's [emoji451]

 

[tomcatt]

Testride sucsessfully done, don't needed the tool:

Now the freeplay off the brakelever is how it should be from factory [emoji106]

With the short Puig lever at the widest adjustment it's like a "BMX-2-finger-brake" from the early 80's [emoji451]

Glad you got it how you like it. My intent when I started the thread was to make folks aware of the opportunity. I have Puig shorty levers on the way, am holding off doing more adjusting 'til they arrive.

 

[25PSi]

Testride sucsessfully done, don't needed the tool:

Now the freeplay off the brakelever is how it should be from factory [emoji106]

With the short Puig lever at the widest adjustment it's like a "BMX-2-finger-brake" from the early 80's [emoji451]

So what are your number of threads? YES i AM doing a poll Its not bad, is it?

 

[tomcatt]

Its not bad, is it?

Remember this?

And of course THE fine point here is to put it CLOSE but not OVER

It's still going to be a problem running the adjuster out so the port is closed and just copying someone elses' setting can put you in that position. They may not have the same lever installed or we may not count threads the same way...

 

[25PSi]

Hear ya mate. I just like statistics LOL I, myself, am going to be doing mine a little at the time.

 

[Whyara]

My intent when I started the thread was to make folks aware of the opportunity.

Thank you very much for this, without you I'would never even thinking about that the freeplay is adjustable !

So what are your number of threads?

Sorry, I can't count it when the levers are mounted !

 

[Karamazov]

The (excessive) amount of front brake lever freeplay (travel) before the brake applies has been discussed a bunch so I looked at reducing it.

There's a limit to how much free travel you can remove. The master cylinder piston has to retract enough to open the bleed port in the master cylinder. Naturally BMW has placed a rubber "bellows" with a slit in it over the bleed port so you can't see the piston opening the port. The "bellows" is the round black thing in the bottom of the master cylinder reservoir, you have to remove the cylinder cap to see it.

With the cap removed, pull the brake lever and you'll see fluid move. This happens at the very beginning of your lever travel and what you see is kind of a "bulge" in the fluid. It will squirt fluid if the fluid level is low enough (or you pull the lever fast enough) so be carefull. This is fluid the piston is pushing out the bleed port before the piston closes the port.

Soo, if we adjust the "threaded goody" on the lever we can move the pistons' starting point so it closes the port sooner requiring less lever movement to close the port and start braking.

Lost you yet?

Now we adjust the "threaded goody". The one with plenty of red loctite on its' locking (grub?) screw that you've probably read about...

Fortunately acetone will dissolve the loctite. With the loctite dissolved the locking screw on mine loosened easily.

You adjust the "threaded goody" to make it longer to push the piston in more. Adjust and try. Get the front wheel off the ground. Rotate it by hand and see when the brake starts to apply. You have to still be able to see the "fluid bulge" in the reservoir. That means the piston is still opening the port. This is IMPORTANT.

I went 2 turns. At 2 1/2 turns I saw a decidedly reduced fluid "bulge" so I went back to 2 turns. I applied purple 222 Loctite to the locking screw.

There's less lever travel now before the brake applies.

This is also what you check after you install aftermarket levers and find your clutch is slipping. You have to adjust the "threaded goody" so the port is opening. That open port is what releases the line pressure in the system.

BE CAREFULL. IF THE PISTON ISN'T OPENING THE PORT YOUR BRAKE WON'T FULLY RELEASE AND THAT IS VERY BAD.

Same on the clutch side. If the piston doesn't retract far enough to open the port the clutch will slip.

Have fun...

Installed and adjusted my new levers this morning. This is invaluable information. Unfortunately, the last thing I ever think of is taking pictures of work I'm doing on the bike (especially at 6:30 in the morning), but tomcatt's instructions are very clear and accurate. The bulge you're looking for presents as more of a bubble - an airless bubble, of course - but the important thing to take away is that if you're not seeing a disturbance in the fluid when you engage the levers, you've got a problem.

Thanks again to tomcatt for posting.

 

[BaldyDave]

Sticky?

Couldn't agree more @Karamazov. I hope @Lost Rider has a look at this thread and makes it a sticky.

Just in case anyone manages to lose (ahem - guilty!) or badly butcher one of the small grub screws it seems that BMW won't be able to supply them without you buying the ENTIRE master cylinder assembly. Can't remember exactly how much but it was in the region of £270 I think!

A much cheaper solution is to buy some M4 x 8 grub screws from fleabay or similar which firstly saved my blushes and secondly cost me a whopping £2.20 including postage for a pack of six!

 

[DOC9T]

Anyone ever had an issue with too much freeplay on the rear brake?
I've checked the fluid levels, played with it a few times, seems all good but occasionally I will touch on it and the whole pedal just goes until my toes scratch the ground!
Any ideas?

 

[BaldyDave]

Anyone ever had an issue with too much freeplay on the rear brake?
I've checked the fluid levels, played with it a few times, seems all good but occasionally I will touch on it and the whole pedal just goes until my toes scratch the ground!
Any ideas?

Sounds like something has broke, but an outside chance of air in the system.Does the pedal become firmer with you pump the brake pedal?

If the pedal acts and feels normal most of the time but occasionally goes slack, it might be something like the ABS system pump (though this is a complete guess)

As the bike is under warranty, I wouldn't go digging too much and would take it to the dealer as this is a safety issue.

 

[Gino Gallegos]

Just experienced that problem!!! engaged front brake with the new Rizoma FEEL levers and the bike just stopped in the middle of the highway!!! font brake didn't release, so i had to push, with help of 2 policeman to safety. Got my torx tool and disassemble front brake lever. Back at home I copied the length on the push pin from stock levers and problem solved, But the Free play is not cured, even with the Rizoma Levers.

 

[Karamazov]

Just experienced that problem!!! engaged front brake with the new Rizoma FEEL levers and the bike just stopped in the middle of the highway!!! font brake didn't release, so i had to push, with help of 2 policeman to safety. Got my torx tool and disassemble front brake lever. Back at home I copied the length on the push pin from stock levers and problem solved, But the Free play is not cured, even with the Rizoma Levers.

You might wanna go to the first page of this thread and read...