Thanks for that, Axleford... Have to say though that as I've read the owner's manual that came with the bike I already knew this. I appreciate you are trying to help but with huge respect I think you'll find out that most people do read the manual.

No offence meant, friend.

 

All this means is that I'm trying to help those waiting for a bike; and...well...uh, er, I just got around to reading mine. alexford (U r right one)

 

There's a manual?

 

That said its still not a one try sort of deal. It takes several attempts to find that sweet spot for your weight, road conditions and riding style. I say put it wher eyou think it belongs and then adjust one setting at a time. I've finally gotten mine "mostly" where I like it.

 

For me the issue is that I can adjust the rear shock all I want but the front won't adjust. I just turns the front into the hingepin. Softer springs and some gold valves for the forks are probably going to be my first mods. I do think the shock is pretty good stock though.

 

If your roads are bad (like those up here in Scotland) then why are you wanting softer springs? Surely they will cause the forks to bottom-out?

 

I meant to say "It turns the front into the hingepin". The stock settings work nice on smooth roads, but there aren't many of those around here.

 

Rough surface, not huge potholes.

 

Hitting sleeping policemen is a bit hard on the wrists! Have to slow down (!!) or go round them. My 93 VFR is much kinder and yet still handles very well. Progress?

 

Okay, I read the manual but I'm still not sure how to adjust my rear shock to get a more comfortable ride. It feels extremely stiff. I get jarred every time I hit a bump. How do I get a softer ride? (I weigh 185 lbs. I ride at a moderate pace.)

 

Pre-load adjuster under the seat -> unwind anti-clockwise fully (softest setting), then add add turns clockwise to make stiffer. From memory there are around 20 turns in the range. I weigh 80kg and have 6 turns back from the softest.
Damping adjustor screw on the lower end of the shock near the swingarm -> tighten fully, then unwind 1 to 1.5 turns.

I'd set your pre-load at 0 turns (softest) and work back, as easy to change. Start with damping at 1.5 and then fine tune after the pre-load is to your liking.

 

I had the same issue when I first got mine...way too stiff for my 175 pounds. I ended up with NO preload (adjuster fully CCW) and 2.5 turns out on damping. It's still not the most plush bike I've ever ridden, but at least it doesn't bounce me out of the seat when I hit a bump.

 

What the preload adjuster does is easily (and frequently) mis-understood. It DOES NOT "stiffen" the suspension. It simply changes the springs' preload which changes your ride height, how much the bike "settles" when you sit on it.

You want the suspension to work in its' "range of travel" and not top out or bottom too much. Too much preload and you're too "topped out" and the rear end is skittery and plays hop, skip, and jump. Too little and and it "bottoms out" too easily.

Usually you want to use ~ 1/3 of the suspension travel when you're sitting on the bike with the load you usually carry.

BMW lists the rear wheel travel as 4.2 inches so you want to be using ~1.4" of it sitting on the bike.

Turn the rebound adjuster all the way in. Count the number of turns so you can put it back in the same spot. Now turn it all the way out.

With the bike on the sidestand grab the rear frame section and lift the rear so the suspension is fully extended. While you do this have a friend measure straight up from the final drive up to a point on the rear frame. Note the distance and your measuring points. Next, sit on the bike normally, feet on the pegs, next to a wall or something to maintain your balance. Easy to do holding on to the welding bench in my garage...

Have your friend measure again. Measure between the same two points. You want a figure ~1.4" less than the first time. Adjust the preload so you have that. More preload and the bike settles less, less preload and it settles more.

Put the rebound adjuster back where it was. You had it backed out so the suspension would move freely while setting the preload (ride height).

That's about the best you'll do without changing the spring or shock.

Rebound just controls how fast the shock can extend. You usually want as little as the rear end "feels good" with. Too little rebound and you have a pogo stick, too much and the shock won't extend fast enough and "pack down" resulting in an increasingly "stiff" feeling during a series of bumps. More preload will require more rebound damping and less preload will require less. Preload and rebound damping go hand in hand, you set the preload FIRST.

Hope this helps.

 

What the preload adjuster does is easily (and frequently) mis-understood. It DOES NOT "stiffen" the suspension. It simply changes the springs' preload which changes your ride height, how much the bike "settles" when you sit on it. I agree

You want the suspension to work in its' "range of travel" and not top out or bottom too much. Too much preload and you're too "topped out" and the rear end is skittery and plays hop, skip, and jump. Too little and and it "bottoms out" too easily. I agree

Usually you want to use ~ 1/3 of the suspension travel when you're sitting on the bike with the load you usually carry. I agree

BMW lists the rear wheel travel as 4.2 inches so you want to be using ~1.4" of it sitting on the bike. Iagree

Turn the rebound adjuster all the way in. Count the number of turns so you can put it back in the same spot. Now turn it all the way out.

With the bike on the sidestand grab the rear frame section and lift the rear so the suspension is fully extended. While you do this have a friend measure straight up from the final drive up to a point on the rear frame. Note the distance and your measuring points. Next, sit on the bike normally, feet on the pegs, next to a wall or something to maintain your balance. Easy to do holding on to the welding bench in my garage... easy to do

Have your friend measure again. Measure between the same two points. You want a figure ~1.4" less than the first time. Adjust the preload so you have that. More preload and the bike settles less, less preload and it settles more.
Right
Put the rebound adjuster back where it was. You had it backed out so the suspension would move freely while setting the preload (ride height).

That's about the best you'll do without changing the spring or shock. I agree

Rebound just controls how fast the shock can extend. You usually want as little as the rear end "feels good" with. Too little rebound and you have a pogo stick, too much and the shock won't extend fast enough and "pack down" resulting in an increasingly "stiff" feeling during a series of bumps. I agree More preload will require more rebound damping and less preload will require less. Preload and rebound damping go hand in hand, I agree with the statement as such BUT the rebound damping has to be set inverse proportional. Please follow the logic in your previous statement if the pillion is seated on the bike too. If the damping is increased as you suggest then the spring will not extend fast enough to reach the ideal 1/3 position. Spring will stay compressed too long and it will bottom out in a series of bumps. You need less damping in the tworiding mode in order to get the spring extended again after the bump. The more weight the more preload to adjust to ideal height and thus ideal geometry and LESS damping. Sorry for the RnineT manual but it's different from an Ohlins manual. Which one do you agree with? you set the preload FIRST. Agree again, first step to do

Hope this helps.

Hope it does not confuse you all

 

Thanks, tomcat and roadrunner. This is all really complicated for me. (I can tell you how to set up an acoustic guitar but I'm lost when it comes to motorcycles.) You get spoiled when your previous bikes were GSs or RTs. I just punched a button and the suspension adjusted.

I did have the suspension set up on my old Ducati Paul Smart but that was done by an expert. I just sat on the bike. :|

I'll keep playing with it and hopefully figure everything out.

The good news is that I am thoroughly settled in with the front suspension and the way it behaves.

 

The good news is that I am thoroughly settled in with the front suspension and the way it behaves.

Not a good thing...

 

Man i can only wish for Belgian roads here in US!!

 

Even at full CCW preload I can't get more than 1" travel

 

Means one of two things. Rear spring is too stiff (too high a rate) or the adjuster doesn't have enough travel and won't let you back the preload off enough.

I'm not sure about our rear shock but on some you can "adjust the adjuster" to change it's range of adjustment.

Clearly you don't want to be adding preload with the adjuster. How much do you weigh in riding gear?

 

Finally getting around to messing with the rear pre-load settings.

I have the rear sub frame and seat off...bobber style. In this arrangement where exactly would I make my measurements?

I followed the proscribed "1/3" directions given by Tom cat, backing both the preload and the lower rebound screws all the way out. From the bolt hole that holds the rear section of the seat in place, to the top of the final drive...see picture...I can't even get an an inch of travel!?

Seems to me that the point of measurement would be critical, yet there send to be no specific standard points.

Thanks in advance.

 

How much do you weigh?

 

I"m curious as to what I can do to my Scrambler. In suburban riding it's mostly fine, but when I get it on the highway at 70mph we have these random frost heaves in the road that almost hurt when hit at speed. I usually stand up a little if I see one coming, but sometimes I miss them. I know there's not much I can do in the front, but I'm hoping to soften it up a bit in the back. I am not at all a sporty rider. Can you offer advice as to what I should do with the shock? The bike is completely stock and I weigh 180lbs.