[rbugaj]

heres a snap of the doc.

 

[MotoGuitar]

That's incredibly helpful! Thanks so much.

 

[rainia]

heres a snap of the doc.

Somehow related question... is there any specific size of fork boots that fits new ohlins fork?

 

[GusTSR]

is it a fact that you can't get the gold forks on the full ohlins kit for the front forks on the 9T?

My understanding is that gold can be had for the full replacement kit....

anyone know for sure?

 

[Karamazov]

is it a fact that you can't get the gold forks on the full ohlins kit for the front forks on the 9T?

My understanding is that gold can be had for the full replacement kit....

anyone know for sure?

Is there some benefit to the Ohlins forks beyond the internals? Seems like you could just keep the gold OEM forks and buy the Ohlins internals if you wanted to keep the gold...

 

[tofur]

is it a fact that you can't get the gold forks on the full ohlins kit for the front forks on the 9T?

My understanding is that gold can be had for the full replacement kit....

anyone know for sure?

Contact a ohlins dealer or Ohlins themselves and ask. I'm pretty sure it's only black ones.

 

[GusTSR]

Is there some benefit to the Ohlins forks beyond the internals? Seems like you could just keep the gold OEM forks and buy the Ohlins internals if you wanted to keep the gold...

Ah ohlins.....

Ohlins on a bike are like a fine Swiss watch on your wrist: you certainly don't NEED it but it gives you major bling and it's actually functional.

I want'em for the same reasons. It's pretty much double the price to go full kit on the forks....yeah, I know, kinda nutty...

For me, if they do come in gold I'm pretty much sold...

 

[Karamazov]

Ah ohlins.....

Ohlins on a bike are like a fine Swiss watch on your wrist: you certainly don't NEED it but it gives you major bling and it's actually functional.

I want'em for the same reasons. It's pretty much double the price to go full kit on the forks....yeah, I know, kinda nutty...

For me, if they do come in gold I'm pretty much sold...

Here ya go bud:

Ohlins Decals Blue and Yellow Fork Suspension | eBay

Merry Christmas

 

[tofur]

Ah ohlins.....

Ohlins on a bike are like a fine Swiss watch on your wrist: you certainly don't NEED it but it gives you major bling and it's actually functional.

I want'em for the same reasons. It's pretty much double the price to go full kit on the forks....yeah, I know, kinda nutty...

For me, if they do come in gold I'm pretty much sold...

You can always wrap them in this stuff, achieves the same effect:

The full ohlins forks are a definite improvement over the stock ones. They are lighter, have way less friction, and are more supportive and stable under braking.

 

[griffin]

Tofur; installation insights RE fork changeout? Thanks

 

[GusTSR]

Here ya go bud:

Ohlins Decals Blue and Yellow Fork Suspension | eBay

Merry Christmas

hahaaaaaa!! well played, sir.

tip o' the cap to you.

 

[tofur]

Tofur; installation insights RE fork changeout? Thanks

Ok so you have to keep the left forks lower clamp nice and tight (the two screws that clamp down on the threaded piece). That allows you to unscrew the long wheel bolt thing (forget its name...) and get the wheel off. Loosen the right lower clamp of course.

Remove the calipers, the ABS sensor (which is very easy to install on the Ohlins), then take the wheel off.

Now you can loosen the left lower clamp and remove the threaded piece, or you can do it once the fork is off.

To get the forks out and in the triple clamps, loosen the bottom two bolts then hold onto the fork while undoing the top one. It shouldn't slide out but it might. From there, stick a big flathead screwdriver or something similar into the opening in the triple clamps (helps to have two people for this part but you can do it alone) and leverage them open so the fork slides out easily.

Do the same thing for the Ohlins, be VERY careful unless you don't mind minor scratches on your new tubes. Pry the clamps open so they don't drag along the tube as you run them through, some kind of lubricant might help as well, although I can't see having lubricant between the tube and clamp being a good idea when it comes time to clamp them down and go riding.

Once they are in place (use a ruler to get them equal, measure from the top to the first clamp, their exact position is personal preference but put them generally where the stock ones were)... OH yeah, make sure the long triangular cut outs in the tubes are facing directly out to the left and right, NOT front to back.

So once they are in and bolted down, put the threaded piece back in the left one and tighten it down, connect the ABS piece (fits right in the pre-drilled hole), get the wheel and calipers back on.

Read the manual that comes with the forks, they give specific information on what to do next that I can't specifically remember. You leave something untightened (I believe the wheel itself) and load up the forks a few times to get everything balanced out. You also change the settings (rebound/compression fully closed or open I believe) and then pump the forks a bunch (i.e, push on the handlebars over and over) to get them out of shipping hibernation and riding ready.

Then that's it, you've got new badass forks. Set them up according to Ohlins recommendations at first, but I've found through a few thousand miles of tweaking that dropping preload somewhere in the neighborhood of a half turn and compression and rebound down a turn or two makes them more road oriented. That's personal preference though, and there is a notable difference between 2 clicks one way or another so don't get too crazy with it.

They have to work themselves in too, they will get better over the first 500-1000 miles. I actually went up a click on compression and rebound recently to firm them up a bit.

 

[tofur]

Oh yeah and also, go back over every bolt to make sure it's all tight before riding. I almost forgot the right lower clamp bolts when I did the install.



On a unrelated note, I caught air w/ the Ohlins for the first time the other day. It was a choppy and raised railroad crossing, I got up on the pegs a little and gunned it. Bike and suspension handled it beautifully, reminded me a bit of a well setup dirtbike, where you can trust in the bike to sort out the terrain and don't have to micro manage it. The landing was on uneven railroad crossing and it was a non-issue. I've also had the rear wheel break loose a few times and it was very predictable and controllable (props to the michelin pilot 4's too), you get a lot of information through the rear shock.

These Ohlins are really good.

 

[griffin]

Thanks!

Hope the suspension upgrade project goes well thisweekend - thanks again

 

[cozmo1589]

Ohlins Rear Shockabsorber

Hi, I'm considering changing my stock rear suspension unit for nice shiny gold Ohlins unit as it will match colour of the front forks , my question is has anyone changed the rear shock and if so how easy was it, any issues or any problem experienced? Any feedback, hints and tips greatly appreciated. ;-)

 

[landski]

According to the Öhlins guy at the Intermot fair, he recommended to upgrade the front springs together with the rear shock. They considered this a "stage 1" upgrade.

 

[Lost Rider]

Hi, I'm considering changing my stock rear suspension unit for nice shiny gold Ohlins unit as it will match colour of the front forks , my question is has anyone changed the rear shock and if so how easy was it, any issues or any problem experienced? Any feedback, hints and tips greatly appreciated. ;-)
View attachment 20921

It's pretty straightforward to swap the shock. Remove exhaust can, loosen top bolt slightly, loosen lower bolt slightly, loosen wheel bolts slightly then support bike with a stand, jack, log, whatever's enough to get the rear wheel just off the ground. I loosen the bolts slightly before supporting the bike so I'm not putting too much force on it while suspended. Remove wheel, then shock bolts and slide the shock out. You might be able to do it without removing the exhaust depending on your tools and if you can get to the lower shock bolt.
BMW calls for new bolts to be installed whenever you remove the old ones. New ones come with encapsulated thread lock. I just cleaned the old thread lock off with wire brush and used blue locktite. Probably has slighter different torques with a wet threadlock than dry, but I tighten mine to spec and have done it a few times on my other BMW with no issues. You decide on that one.

Good luck!

 

[cozmo1589]

It's pretty straightforward to swap the shock. Remove exhaust can, loosen top bolt slightly, loosen lower bolt slightly, loosen wheel bolts slightly then support bike with a stand, jack, log, whatever's enough to get the rear wheel just off the ground. I loosen the bolts slightly before supporting the bike so I'm not putting too much force on it while suspended. Remove wheel, then shock bolts and slide the shock out. You might be able to do it without removing the exhaust depending on your tools and if you can get to the lower shock bolt.
BMW calls for new bolts to be installed whenever you remove the old ones. New ones come with encapsulated thread lock. I just cleaned the old thread lock off with wire brush and used blue locktite. Probably has slighter different torques with a wet threadlock than dry, but I tighten mine to spec and have done it a few times on my other BMW with no issues. You decide on that one.

Good luck!

Cheers mate, just the right amount of info i was looking for, appreiciate it !!

 

[cozmo1589]

According to the Öhlins guy at the Intermot fair, he recommended to upgrade the front springs together with the rear shock. They considered this a "stage 1" upgrade.

Thanks landski, i wouldn't expect an Ohlins rep to say any different and with unlimited funds i'd probably do that however my upgrade is purely for aesthetic reasons, i have no complaints with how the bike performs i just think the white spring on the rear shock stands out like a sore thumb, it matches nothing else on the bike whatsoever. Cheers for your reply mate.

 

[landski]

Thanks landski, i wouldn't expect an Ohlins rep to say any different and with unlimited funds i'd probably do that however my upgrade is purely for aesthetic reasons, i have no complaints with how the bike performs i just think the white spring on the rear shock stands out like a sore thumb, it matches nothing else on the bike whatsoever. Cheers for your reply mate.

I had a similar reaction, and he then pointed out that the price of the front springs were 99 euro.
Fahrwerke & Zubehör - Fahrwerk | Reifen & Räder - NineT - BMW R-Serie

I also asked what the difference between the original and and the Öhlins front springs were. There was a lot of mumbling then and I could only make out words like "quality" and "precision" >