[Marc - Australia]

Snorkel vinyled...

oh oh... I just shouldn't have any spare time on my hands... tztztz... ...and then all that Vinyl flying around...

[have to put sticker on - have to put sticker on - have to put sticker on - have to put sticker on - have to put sticker on - have to put sticker on - have to put sticker on - have to put sticker on - have to put sticker on - have to put sticker on - [have to put sticker on - have to put sticker on - have to put sticker on - have to put sticker on - have to put sticker on - have to put sticker on - have to put sticker on - have to put sticker on - have to put sticker on - have to put sticker on - ....................]

 

[Marc - Australia]

the inevitable...

Someone could say I do like black...

...unfortunately the inevitable is slowly happening. My bike is getting darker and darker...

...and if we don't like it, we just pull it off again

I hate to have days off

 

[Bose]

Aha nice n stealth looking now ,just the driveshaft left to do now then !!!

 

[tofur]

That is SO mean looking. Well done! How do you think the vinyl on the tank will hold up to your legs?

 

[roadrunner]

Try Plasti Dip if you want a reversible colour change

 

[Marc - Australia]

Yeah, already done. Don't like it much, I mean not at all. Vinyl is so much more robust!

The front fender braces and the exhaust bracket are still plasti-dip. It already starts coming off where rocks hit the braces or where the screws are.

Except for the ease of application I can't see a reason for using that stuff again. I certainly won't.

Also, cleaning that stuff: it feels like rubber you can't just wipe it clean. The vinyl is so easily cleaned even with a dry cloth.

 

[Karamazov]

Someone could say I do like black...

...unfortunately the inevitable is slowly happening. My bike is getting darker and darker...

...and if we don't like it, we just pull it off again

I hate to have days off

The answer is none. None more black.

 

[taikohax]

Hi there!
Firstly, thanks for sharing your experience of this - i think that'll be a nice little project for me (and potentially a nice alternative to a paint job).

firstly - you mentioned you used Oracal 970. Just to confirm. That's plain 970, not 970RA or the other one you mentioned which was a dry install (970RAM?). I don't know if they have different numbers for whether it's a dry/wet install or if you essentially get 970RA dry and 970 RA wet

secondly - 'wierd shapes' - like the hump etc. In my head I can imagine a likelyhood of 'creasing' the vinyl. Purely from translating a flat 2d shape to a curve 3d (ish) shape. Do you have to do weird cuts and join them together or does it stretch/magically conform somehow? (i'm thinking of my own experience with leather here so Vinyl might have different properties).

Finally (and thanks for being patient) - you mentioned the heat gun was used to make it more pliant. Is that used all over as a general application or just for those awkward areas such as the badge roundel or bits of detail?

Given me lots to think about - doing the old Google search for a supplier in the UK.

Ant

 

[roadrunner]

Yeah, already done. Don't like it much, I mean not at all. Vinyl is so much more robust!

The front fender braces and the exhaust bracket are still plasti-dip. It already starts coming off where rocks hit the braces or where the screws are.

Except for the ease of application I can't see a reason for using that stuff again. I certainly won't.

Also, cleaning that stuff: it feels like rubber you can't just wipe it clean. The vinyl is so easily cleaned even with a dry cloth.

Agree, but good to try first to see if you like the look. Certainly not a permanent solution.

Your bike is certainly becoming the Darth Vader of 9Ts.... Get the license plate VADR?

 

[Marc - Australia]

firstly - you mentioned you used Oracal 970. Just to confirm. That's plain 970, not 970RA or the other one you mentioned which was a dry install (970RAM?). I don't know if they have different numbers for whether it's a dry/wet install or if you essentially get 970RA dry and 970 RA wet

mhhmmm... to be honest, I didn't know there were all these different types

I'm not a pro in things Vinyl so I can only suggest to ask the supplier. Sorry.

secondly - 'wierd shapes' - like the hump etc. In my head I can imagine a likelyhood of 'creasing' the vinyl. Purely from translating a flat 2d shape to a curve 3d (ish) shape. Do you have to do weird cuts and join them together or does it stretch/magically conform somehow? (i'm thinking of my own experience with leather here so Vinyl might have different properties).

Yes, weird shapes are a very good test for your patience! If you have never applied vinyl try something simple first, something rather flat and not many curves.

Just as an example: The tank of the GS is probably the worse form I've ever attempted to cover in vinyl. It has so many complex curves that run against each other that I was close to crying when I tried it the first time.

But NO, there are no cuts made. I'm not sure how professionals are doing it but I start on a most even surface, like the middle part of the hump and work my way down the back and sides.

And yes, you are correct, 'translating a flat 2d shape into a form like the hump you will have excess material, so there will be 'creasing' but the vinyl, especially the type for complex curves is very stretchable. So by warming it up and stretching, always in small pieces, you will eventually form the vinyl to the weirdest shapes.

However, it will have its limits. I don't believe the 9T's tank is something that could be wrapped, or at least I won't be able to do it.

If you have four (4) hands you could warm up the entire sheet first and pull it over the hump in one go. I've seen that on U-Tube been done to a car mirror. But unfortunately I have only two (2) hands. So for me its a bit by bit application.

Finally (and thanks for being patient) - you mentioned the heat gun was used to make it more pliant. Is that used all over as a general application or just for those awkward areas such as the badge roundel or bits of detail?

I tend to used it for 'all over'. It just makes the material a lot mould-able. You might be able to see the vinyl strip I put on the tank's back. It's a very even surface. Even there I used the heat-gun as it makes it a lot easier.


So, I hope this helps. I've been doing this now for at least 5 years on my bikes and when people ask me how to do it the one thing I keep telling them is: Patience! It certainly is something that puts your patience to the test.

Have Fun!

 

[Bonkorama]

Wow man, thats bad @ss. I LOVE it.

 

[Marc - Australia]

secondly - 'wierd shapes' - like the hump etc. In my head I can imagine a likelyhood of 'creasing' the vinyl. Purely from translating a flat 2d shape to a curve 3d (ish) shape. Do you have to do weird cuts and join them together or does it stretch/magically conform somehow? (i'm thinking of my own experience with leather here so Vinyl might have different properties).

Just picking up on that one one more time...

I just re-did the tank strip. It didn't look right... it was only slapped on and I wanted it to go down the sides of that middle strip and running around the filler-cap too.

I made a template, again with normal paper and masking tape. Transferred the shape to the back of the vinyl and cut it out.

When I was applying I thought of Ant's question about the 'creasing' vinyl and took some photos. Even though this is not a major curve it still shows how you can mold the folds away. Soap water and hot air is essential.

BTW Ant, the back of the Vinyl states only Oracal 970.

Here are the photos I've taken:

The main reason for having a cover on the tank is 'paint-protection'. With the Clubman handlebars I'm leaning forward a fair bit and sometimes the zipper is touching the tank right there. I first tried clear, actual protection vinyl that I used on the rear bumper of our station wagon, but that's too thick and doesn't look right.

...and if you guys wonder if I have a life besides applying vinyl, YES I DO! just got a couple of days off, ok!?

cya
M

 

[Bonkorama]

What a great idea Marc, Ive already some abrasions from all the communting with my tank bag with my laptop AND lunch strapped to the top ( the bag drags across the tank over road surface irregularities ) so this is a fantastic solution.
AND i think the matte/gloss contrast is really really cool.

Great idea.

Stolen.

 

[Bonkorama]

OK, two more questions:
1) any tricks to removing the roundels?
2) what are you using to re-attach them to the vinyl?

 

[Marc - Australia]

mhmm, I'm assuming you mean the BMW logo at the back?

I warmed it up a bit and then lifted it gently off with a flat-head screw driver... but REALLY GENTLE. It is stuck on with some sort of foam double sided tape. I 'gives' very slowly when you lift it UNTIL you win and it flips off... so again, very gentle and expect it to suddenly come off. If you don't it might make a mark in that soft aluminium while being tipped up.

I think I used 3M Glass-double sided stuff.

I think its called 'Double Sided 3M Clear Acrylic Foam Tape' or so. It's got the same properties as that foam. I sticks very well but comes off as well if you want it to, slowly.

 

[Captain]

Hey Marc, thanks for the great instructions. ?

I'll be putting all of your teachings into practice on a project bike soon, beats painting!

I can't get my head around how you get the vinyl to fill in small depressions, like the small 'hole' on the seat cowl where that logo is. Why doesn't the vinyl just spring back up to the top, are you stretching it down into the depression? Does it actually stick down in there, or do you have to give it extra slack to keep it down?
If you were to do a long crease between two panels would you cut and overlap, or just work it into the dip.

Cheers and keep up the good work.

 

[Marc - Australia]

I'm really happy you guys appreciate the photos, it's good. Thank you!

Why doesn't the vinyl just spring back up to the top, are you stretching it down into the depression? Does it actually stick down...

Yes, it sticks. The vinyl's back-side is adhesive. Here is a photo of my thumb-fingerprint on the adhesive side:

So you put soap water on the adhesive back-side while you pull it off its carrier material, bit by bit (try to have as little dry adhesive area as possible). There is no need to completely soak it. A nice spray of soapwater is good enough...

So you use soap-water...

• for '1', to keep dust away from the sticky side (it automatically draws dust-particles)...

• and for '2' to be able to move it into place...

• and '3', to be able to push out any air bubbles.

Once you squeezed the soap-water from underneath out to the sides (always work your way from the inside to the outside) the adhesiveness (glue) takes over and binds to the surface.

Combine that with a heat-gun and there you go... you can move the material into pretty much any creases... when warmed up the vinyl gets really flexible!

If you were to do a long crease between two panels would you cut and overlap, or just work it into the dip.

...so to answer your other question... I'd just work it into the dip. It may take a little bit when you have too much soap-water until it dries up and sticks...

Best example, the NineT letters on the snorkel:

Unfortunately with the snorkel I wasn't patient enough and applied the vinyl without soap water.
Hence why you can see these little lines above the 'n' towards the dot of the 'i'.
They form when the vinyl sticks properly and you pull it away again to remove airbubbles.
Sucks... but you hardly see it when you are beside the bike.

 

[1561]

B&B & VWC (Vinyl Wrap Course)

that's all well and good but my last two attempts with clear vinyl wrapping turned out rather shameful nothing could save that debacle - had to rip it off again! hot air gun can only hide/fix so much
so now I go a MUCH much better idea: eventually I'll be getting off this Island to make my way through Oz-midlands to Darwin heading East and down the Coast - why don't I book myself into Marc's for B&B plus hands-on-crash-course in vinyl wrapping? Going by all your photos Marc, PATIENCE must be one of your superpowers - surely you wouldn't mind taking on an apprentice for a long weekend or so?

 

[tofur]

This might be a stupid question, but did you take the forks off the bike to wrap them or did you just leave em on?

Also, where did you get your vinyl? everywhere I've found only sells like 20 yard sheets of the stuff.

 

[Marc - Australia]

This might be a stupid question, but did you take the forks off the bike to wrap them or did you just leave em on?

Also, where did you get your vinyl? everywhere I've found only sells like 20 yard sheets of the stuff.

There are no stupid questions!

I put the vinyl on the front-end without taking anything apart. However, if I'd do it again I would take the wheel and fender off as it will make it easier to apply the vinyl around the bottom of the forks where you have to stretch a little.

In the third post of this thread I put pretty much all the information.

I bought the vinyl from a sign-writer supply company in the Brisbane Area called Australian Graphics Supply (ags). I have been able to select which width of the role and how many meters down to just one.

Happy wrapping
M