[BaldyDave]

Lucky escape, mate.

Just experienced that problem!!! engaged front brake with the new Rizoma FEEL levers and the bike just stopped in the middle of the highway!!! font brake didn't release, so i had to push, with help of 2 policeman to safety. Got my torx tool and disassemble front brake lever. Back at home I copied the length on the push pin from stock levers and problem solved, But the Free play is not cured, even with the Rizoma Levers.

You were REALLY lucky to get away with that one mate - could have been so much worse!

You have just experienced hydraulic lock, caused (I'm afraid) by incorrect adjustment of the lever free play.

As @Karamazov has said, please take the time to carefully read this thread from the start. All the information you need is there. If you still feel wary about doing the adjustment, please get it done professionally as maladjustment can end very badly when it comes to the braking system (as you almost found out). A little money spent getting the dealer to sort it is definitely a wise investment rather than losing major money to repair a very bent motorcycle (or rider!).

 

[25PSi]

I learned that adjustments are to be made in like 16th of a turn increments. And even after finding farthest possible point there still will be a fair amount of free-play before anything interesting happens.

PS: I got halted at the pump on the gas station.

 

[Gino Gallegos]

Yes bad deal, I spoke with the Rizoma guy (Michael) at the USA headquarters and does not have a clue of what I was talking about. Instructions from manufacturer are also crap. Bike is fine it was just something I didn't think it can happen on a BMW bike, never had one. I am set now but starting to literally bite my teeth haha, because of the suspension. but that is a completely different mater, i redirecting to the suspension thread!! thank you guys

 

[NSX]

... And even after finding farthest possible point there still will be a fair amount of free-play before anything interesting happens ...

This is the only master cyl I've ever encountered that behaves like this. Not only was there a lot of free play, but I found that it varied during a ride. Bleeding didn't reveal any air or have any effect. After experiencing lock up, I adjusted mine with the wheel off the ground and ensured that the brake would disengage when the lever was released after applying the brake multiple times. Then I rolled the bike around, repeating the process. There was no drag whatsoever, but after riding it a while it locked up again. I thought it might have something to do with the ABS. I installed the Nissin master cyl off my '00 RC51. With it there is almost no free play and the lever is solid, without the slight mushiness I always felt before. Totally resolved the problem and the front brake is now superb.

Replace your master cylinder. You won't regret it.

 

[NSX]

Does your RC51 master cyl have the same piston diameter as the OE BMW master?

I don't know. Doesn't seem to be marked on either master cyl. They both require the same light touch on the lever for strong braking.

 

[Marco]

Dear Dave Sorry to be thick can you try and help me Im looking at the red dot on the bottom and the hex grub that goes into the side how do I get the red paint off /glue is the only bit that needs to be un screwed the grub going into the side sorry mate I cant get my head around any of this cheers Marco

 

[BaldyDave]

Dear Dave Sorry to be thick can you try and help me Im looking at the red dot on the bottom and the hex grub that goes into the side how do I get the red paint off /glue is the only bit that needs to be un screwed the grub going into the side sorry mate I cant get my head around any of this cheers Marco

Hey Marco. Mate if you are unsure of the process, do you really want to adjust something that can have very serious safety implications if you get it wrong?

I'll try to clarify....

Carefully use Acetone to dissolve the red thread lock on the grub screw. The thread lock is not just on the end of the screw, but on the grub screw threads too. The acetone should penetrate the threads and help release the screw. This small grub screw locks the freeplay adjuster pushrod in place to stop it moving (potentially disastrous). The pushrod itself controls the freeplay of the levers.

Perhaps this diagram will make things clearer?




The pushrod is also known in this thread as "threaded goody". The hex socket referred to in my diagram is a hex shaped "hole" in the end of the pushrod.

Please take time to carefully re-read the thread and hopefully with the aid of the above diagram things will become clear.

IF YOU ARE ANY WAY UNSURE OF THE ADJUSTMENT PROCESS, OR NOT CONFIDENT OF DOING THE WORK CORRECTLY, STOP!!!

IT IS NOT WORTH RISKING EITHER YOUR OWN SAFETY, OR THE SAFETY OF OTHERS FOR AN HOURS LABOUR CHARGE.

Things can go DISASTROUSLY wrong if you adjust the brake free play incorrectly, or fail to put thread lock back on the locking grub screw after the adjustment is complete.

I'm honestly not patronising you, but please think very carefully before going ahead with any work.

 

[Marco]

Dear Dave thanks so much I have managed to get the thread lock off so all ok when putting thread lock back on at the end I have some in a lip stick type tube 222 it's a blue colour is this OK or do I need to use a liquid red one I normally use the 222 on most bits on the bike ?? Cheers old boy Marco

 

[BaldyDave]

Can't comment on the lipstick tube thread lock you have, to be honest I've never heard of that type.


I'm pretty sure BMW would only recommend you replace the thread lock with the high strength red stuff. That been said I made a personal judgement call and used medium strength blue liquid thread lock on the locking grub screw on my bike.


Your call on what you use on your bike, mate.

 

[Marco]

Thanks very much for all your kind help again Dave very Kind

 

[Marco]

Dear Dave and Everyone any ideas Iv managed to get the grub screw out of the clutch side by dissolving the thread lock


The pic below is the brake side I have managed to move the grub a couple of turns and in fact now got the threaded goodie out but I cant get the grub screw out and I need to as I have some new Puig levers which use the oem parts so that grub needs to come out I cant move it in or out now


Can I have some wise help PLEASE chaps cheers Marco

 

[BaldyDave]

The brake side always seems to be the tough side. I think BMW smothered the grub screw threads in thread lock.

Did you use Acetone to dissolve the thread lock?

 

[Spoon]

Dear Dave and Everyone any ideas Iv managed to get the grub screw out of the clutch side by dissolving the thread lock


The pic below is the brake side I have managed to move the grub a couple of turns and in fact now got the threaded goodie out but I cant get the grub screw out and I need to as I have some new Puig levers which use the oem parts so that grub needs to come out I cant move it in or out now


Can I have some wise help PLEASE chaps cheers Marco

I'm not too sure as to what I'm looking at but it looks like the threads on the back end of the grub screw are stripped out. Try some anti-seize, let it sit for awhile.

 

[Marco]

Yep soaked it in juice I then snapped the allen key in the grub and tried to drill it out and melted the nylon so its now ruined mate Im so grumpy. I found your old post re this problem to late I see you used a hex bit on a bar was it a 2.5mm ?
I guess I am now going to have to buy a new lever from BMW oh god and then try again so if you could let me now the size I will try your approach this will now end up costing me a bomb Im so fed up with my self mate the clutch side went brill Thank you for all your kind help Ciao Marco

 

[BaldyDave]

Yep soaked it in juice I then snapped the allen key in the grub and tried to drill it out and melted the nylon so its now ruined mate Im so grumpy. I found your old post re this problem to late I see you used a hex bit on a bar was it a 2.5mm ?
I guess I am now going to have to buy a new lever from BMW oh god and then try again so if you could let me now the size I will try your approach this will now end up costing me a bomb Im so fed up with my self mate the clutch side went brill Thank you for all your kind help Ciao Marco

I'm genuinely gutted for you, mate!

The Acetone trick has been used successfully be several members on this thread and usually gets by the problem of excessive thread lock on the brake side grub screw.... It certainly worked for you on the clutch side.

It sounds as if perhaps the grub screw might have got stripped threads if it initially started to turn. If you have only tried to un-tighten the screw this would not strip it. However if the grub screw was overtightened when it was installed the screw may have slipped but then the thread lock would have "glued" everything in place.

I honestly can't remember the size of the grub screw hex bit I used but it will be the same size as the allen key you used.

If you manage to get the grub screw out, I have some spare grub screws lying around somewhere as Bought half a dozen of them when I managed to lose the stock one. If I can find them I'll happily post them down to you if this helps. No charge, I'll just stick then in an envelope! PM me if you want me to do this.

 

[MVA]

On the 2016 The loctite was purple in colour. The grub screw came out easily enough without too much fuss. Acetone was not used.

 

[Mr. Lee]

I just finished adjusting both my levers and a small test drive. Happy so far. I did about 2 turns in on the clutch and 1/4 turn on the brake.

 

[roadrunner]

Just confirming adjusting the clutch, to reduce slippage you need to reduce the fluid bulge in the rubber, so wind the thread towards the lever? I understand the correct way to set the clutch is that when jacked up the rear wheel should slowly move in neutral?

 

[Karamazov]

Just confirming adjusting the clutch, to reduce slippage you need to reduce the fluid bulge in the rubber, so wind the thread towards the lever? I understand the correct way to set the clutch is that when jacked up the rear wheel should slowly move in neutral?

You don't want to reduce the "bulge", that bulge is indicating that the bleed port is open. There isn't any correct direction, it just depends on the levers you've installed and amount of travel.

If you're screwing the pin in, at some point you'll cut off the bleed port (which will eliminate the disturbance in the fluid when you engage the lever). Back the screw out enough that it's engaging the clutch (and spinning the rear wheel). That's your starting point. Then, start incrementally screwing it in - maybe a half or quarter turn at a time. Pull the lever after every turn and ensure you're still seeing disturbance in the fluid. You'll know when you've reached the bleed port, the fluid will be still when you pull the lever. Then back it out until you see the disturbance return. That's your optimal spot with the least amount of free play allowable to still fully engage the clutch without slippage.

 

[BaldyDave]

+ 1 on what @Karamazov says. You need to see a bulge in the fluid, if you don't then you've gone too far. Probably on the clutch side this will manifest itself as clutch slip, but on the brake side this can be very serious as the front brake can lock up - sometimes without warning - and the consequences could be VERY bad.

Please be careful when messing with clutch (and especially brake free play) and if in doubt entrust the job to a professional.